Wasted Spark Install

Post by **Brad D.** » Sep 22, 2009 12:38 AM

Lee in Ottawa wrote:Anyway you and post part numbers of everything? I'm considering running wasted spark on my e34 in the future but if it can be done like this for less than $200 i'd bite the bullet now.

Where did you order from?

Done. Check the bottom of the first post for links and part numbers.

George · Post by **George** » Sep 22, 2009 7:28 AM

Can this be implemented on MS1 systems?

FirstFives Dictator · Post by **FirstFives Dictator** » Sep 22, 2009 7:42 AM

thesixerkid wrote:Can this be implemented on MS1 systems?

Yes.
Although if I went through the trouble of modding the box for Wasted Spark, I'd also add MS2

I'm testing the 2.1.1b beta and the new MAP sampling scheme seems to work very well.

I drove the piss out of the car on Sunday (ask Scott) at Little Creek. Throttle response is improved with new code.

Scottinva · Post by **Scottinva** » Sep 22, 2009 12:08 PM

Yes, you drove the oil out of it too

M. Holtmeier · Post by **M. Holtmeier** » Sep 22, 2009 4:35 PM

FirstFives Dictator wrote:
thesixerkid wrote:Can this be implemented on MS1 systems?
Yes.
Although if I went through the trouble of modding the box for Wasted Spark, I'd also add MS2

I'm testing the 2.1.1b beta and the new MAP sampling scheme seems to work very well.

I drove the piss out of the car on Sunday (ask Scott) at Little Creek. Throttle response is improved with new code.

I installed mine on MS1 using the same gm coils as Brad except my base plate has the 3 conn's instead of 1, but it mods the same way.

I also have an MS2 card ready to go in, but have some contradictions in outputs for what I want to do and what I'd be losing from MS1-MS2. The biggest thing right now would be water injection. If I didn't spend a ton of time building a custom harness with built in interlocks for table switching, along with a custom pump mount that's already painted to color along with the rest of the engine bay, I'd just remove it. I put a lot of eggs in the w/i basket, both for install (which is unseen) and operation. I have to actually see what it does on a dyno. I'm going to be using 2 IAT sensors, one before the nozzle and one after. If it makes a noticeable difference, I look into adding a CAN bus and a GPIO board to regain lost functions.

Coldswede · Post by **Coldswede** » Sep 25, 2009 6:22 PM

Just when I'm starting to feel conversant on Megasquirt you guys have to take off on a whole new tangent! Could I request you folks go watch girls on some corner for a few months while I get caught up on the learning curve ...again.

I think this a great actually and the Pontiac part looks nice too.

FirstFives Dictator · Post by **FirstFives Dictator** » Sep 25, 2009 6:32 PM

Scottinva wrote:Yes, you drove the oil out of it too

well in my car, I guess oil is it's pee...

Next time we'll put a helmet on you and take you for a ride

Thanks for the help changing tires and loading up, Scott!

bornagain · Post by **bornagain** » Sep 25, 2009 9:44 PM

brad if im not running the glens garage, this install is still able to be done without running one, correct? and did you run another connector on your ecu like in the ms2-extra hardware manual recomendation? If so i would like to see some pictures of that install. And you did run 2 extra vb921's and 330 resistors for your outputs? I was looking in to it and you make is seem a bit easier then i am seeing it as being....

although i am going to do it and have already grabbed my coil packs from a late 90's early 2000's grand am with the 3 connector pack. So.... dan if you have a diagram for your to put up that would be good to add to this sticky, then we will have a few directions covered....

M. Holtmeier · Post by **M. Holtmeier** » Sep 25, 2009 10:53 PM

If you have any extra outputs already deployed you will need to add an additional db9 or db15 plug. I don't have any pics, but you can add one catty corner to the db37 plug, underneath the MS board. The vb921 has been discontinued, the bip373 is it's counterpart. You do not need the gg idle board, you can simply mount them directly to the case. Just be sure to use the mica insulator underneath the fet.

Brad posted this pic of the 3 conn coil base;

HTH
-MIKE

Post by **Brad D.** » Sep 26, 2009 12:05 AM

Mike is correct. You do NOT need the GG idle board, it just makes things a little easier. You just need to mount two more IGBT drivers (most like the BIP373 which will also need a 330Ω resistor). Since I was using an adapter board (my old Motronic case) and I had my idle board mounted inside, I added a DB9 connector to the adapter box which just allows me to plug my coil harness into the Motronic case.

bornagain · Post by **bornagain** » Sep 26, 2009 8:07 PM

thanks guys. i appreciate the additional info, it helps when its in front of you and you dont have to meter everything out. just an off note, brad and mike, i kept the original 2 wire idle valve i had and used the pwm mod from diyauto and the valve works quite well as a warm up valve. i am pretty sure i could use it for closed loop but it was easy enough to get it setup for warm up. i have a few bugs to work out just yet but when i do i will post my settings.

FirstFives Dictator · Post by **FirstFives Dictator** » Oct 07, 2009 11:15 PM

Scottinva wrote:Yes, you drove the oil out of it too

Yeah like this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0p_F3snYdI4

Won't be done processing for a while

Coldswede · Post by **Coldswede** » Oct 25, 2009 12:03 AM

Anyone have links to dizzy delete plates and/or write ups?

I found Shawns link to a dizzy cover i was just looking for other solutions.

Shadow · Post by **Shadow** » Oct 25, 2009 3:02 AM

Coldswede wrote:
I found Shawns link to a dizzy cover

Link?

Coldswede · Post by **Coldswede** » Oct 25, 2009 12:54 PM

Apparently this does not fit though
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do? ... d=P&arch=0 as per this discussion http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=60682

Post by **Brad D.** » Oct 26, 2009 12:20 AM

PPF makes one but it's not cheap. It does have a cool cam sensor mount on it though.

bornagain · Post by **bornagain** » Oct 28, 2009 2:38 AM

hey guys how did you get your tach on the dash working properly, are you using the tach output on the ms? or did you go with diodes on all three inputs to the tach input?

eddycooper · Post by **eddycooper** » Oct 28, 2009 9:13 AM

Big Bronze Rim wrote:PPF makes one but it's not cheap. It does have a cool cam sensor mount on it though.

If a few people were interested, it would be a pretty simple job for www.emachineshop.com. Judging by their pricing, if you bought 5, they'd probably come out to ~$40 a piece.

Post by **Brad D.** » Oct 28, 2009 9:57 AM

bornagain wrote:hey guys how did you get your tach on the dash working properly, are you using the tach output on the ms? or did you go with diodes on all three inputs to the tach input?

I am using an output from MS. I believe that I am using JS10 for the tach. It works great.

Coldswede · Post by **Coldswede** » Oct 28, 2009 10:59 PM

If a few people were interested, it would be a pretty simple job for www.emachineshop.com. Judging by their pricing, if you bought 5, they'd probably come out to ~$40 a piece.

That's perfect!

Did you actually design one with their CAD tool? If so would you share the drawing just to see what you came up with?

bornagain · Post by **bornagain** » Oct 28, 2009 11:32 PM

if you want i also have a connection for water jetting here in edmonton. i had the flange for my turbo cut from half inch mild steel and he only charged me 35$ cad under the table and he said anytime i want anything done to just let him know. im sure i could get him to cut a bunch up too. all i would need to do is make a drawing of it on autocad and choose what stalk to do it out of. would everyone prefer stainless or mild steel. and what thickness and with or with out the opening for the cam sensor?

eddycooper · Post by **eddycooper** » Oct 29, 2009 12:10 AM

Coldswede wrote:That's perfect!

Did you actually design one with their CAD tool? If so would you share the drawing just to see what you came up with?

No, I've never tried it. I'm sure this piece would be pretty simple. Unfortunately both of my upper timing covers are in their cars so I don't have one to measure up. I also don't have as much incentive to do it yet because I don't yet have megasquirt:) It's coming this winter though...

bornagain · Post by **bornagain** » Oct 29, 2009 12:22 AM

well i have a distributor to go off of now so i am going to pull it out and get my mom to draft up(shes a certified drafts person) some prints and i am probably going to get it cut out of aluminum to match the rest and so that i dont need a gasket for oxidization issues. im not going to put a cam timing sensor hole in mine cause i really dont care to screw around with the setup for a long while from now.

ZenitramNaes · Post by **ZenitramNaes** » Jan 17, 2015 11:33 AM

Just got this installed on my e34 however I'm having some problems with response and some stumbling around 2k. I'm curious as how much the timing table is going to need to change or if if needs to be touched up at all. My previous tune seemed to run perfect, so something is not right here.

I understand this is an old post, but anyone with any relevant knowledge should suffice.

Post by **Brad D.** » Jan 20, 2015 10:35 AM

The timing table shouldn't need any changes, as only the spark energy has changed. It seems odd that you would have stumbling. What are you using for drivers and how are you using the LED outputs to drive them? What code are you using? It's been a while since I updated my firmware and am wondering if there are changes that affect waste spark outputs.

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Wasted Spark Install

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