No use fixed timing on More Ignition Settingsalijonny wrote:I need to set the numbers to 0 on the timing board too right? there is a button to hit to set them all to 0 temporarily right? I am going to look for that now.
E28 Megasquirt FAQ
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my car is absolutely amazing. the first few times everything will work very well. i ran the car the first time with everything set right and it seemed very well behaved. it was all to shit from that point. Things seemed to get worse and temps started rising again. the car now seems to be running too rich and a 2k rpm idle and I haven't even changed anything!!! WTF?? I thought I had enough time away from this garbage.
each tooth is 6 degrees.... 60 tooth wheel divided in to 360* comes out to 6 degrees per tooth. so really if you break it down its 3 degrees for the gap and 3 degrees for the tooth and 15 degrees for the missing tooth section and to figure out your trigger settings for the degrees off the tooth one, you count how many teeth from the vr sensor the missing tooth is then minus one cause its actually asking for tooth one and then times by 6. All done at TDC.
For example when mine is at tdc i count 15 teeth including the one that is in line with the VR sensor and so i subtract one tooth cause i want tooth #1 which puts me at 14 teeth x 6* = 84* and i minused one degree for the fact that i was about 1/3 off center on my tooth and that seemed to work out for me.
now mine might be a bit different cause i used a b35 crank wheel on a b32 motor, but it shouldnt really be off from that, or my tdc mark is off on the flywheel. But what that comes down to, is, more of my trouble shooting i have to do with my own car.
For example when mine is at tdc i count 15 teeth including the one that is in line with the VR sensor and so i subtract one tooth cause i want tooth #1 which puts me at 14 teeth x 6* = 84* and i minused one degree for the fact that i was about 1/3 off center on my tooth and that seemed to work out for me.
now mine might be a bit different cause i used a b35 crank wheel on a b32 motor, but it shouldnt really be off from that, or my tdc mark is off on the flywheel. But what that comes down to, is, more of my trouble shooting i have to do with my own car.
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You probably did some tuning at some point before it was warmed up.alijonny wrote:my car is absolutely amazing. the first few times everything will work very well. i ran the car the first time with everything set right and it seemed very well behaved. it was all to shit from that point. Things seemed to get worse and temps started rising again. the car now seems to be running too rich and a 2k rpm idle and I haven't even changed anything!!! WTF?? I thought I had enough time away from this garbage.
Now you can tune it warm and the default warmup curves should be close for you.
It's idling higher because your timing is correct now.
you are starting to get it and it is quite the feeling as it is coming along, its almost like having a child really.... it can seem great and over whelming and you do all the preparation you can but when it finally comes to fruitition turns out you have a screaming shitting little basterd til you stand up to it and put it in its place.... " damn you baby you can sit there in your shit til you figure out how to change yourself..." And then through some parenting (tuning(son you better listen or ill tune you in)) it starts to behave and act better and learn, until eventually it becomes independent and you can leave the diaper bag at home( laptop).... yeah
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bornagain wrote:you are starting to get it and it is quite the feeling as it is coming along, its almost like having a child really.... it can seem great and over whelming and you do all the preparation you can but when it finally comes to fruitition turns out you have a screaming shitting little basterd til you stand up to it and put it in its place.... " damn you baby you can sit there in your shit til you figure out how to change yourself..." And then through some parenting (tuning(son you better listen or ill tune you in)) it starts to behave and act better and learn, until eventually it becomes independent and you can leave the diaper bag at home( laptop).... yeah
im not saying that i know all but i will share what i have to share. That is what i came to love about this community and that is why i still browse and contribute. The numerous times brad, even without a helping answer has just managed to keep me confident for the end goal. Many times with the right answers too. And peter like the wise noble man or better yoda, says little but gets the brain rolling.... "with brain you must think, only then, truly understand, you will. Signal clear must vr sensor be." And of course every now and then i have looked to dan and mike ass swell. Either way this is a big shout out to all that have helped me on my way.
And believe it or not all the people asking questions about their problems has helped me either take focus off my current issue or get my brain working analytically again.
And believe it or not all the people asking questions about their problems has helped me either take focus off my current issue or get my brain working analytically again.
Last edited by bornagain on Dec 10, 2009 12:49 AM, edited 1 time in total.
its been so busy at work it has been hard to find the time but im trying to get it done but if the car idles too long it developes a miss. Im pretty sure that when my injector banks screwed up i washed the walls pretty bad and probably wore out the brand new rings i had just finished seating, and that would explain the low vacuum and the "better" running while rich and constant fuel smell out the exhaust with shitty fuel milage and hard to start when cold. Also the poping out the exhaust and random pops on start. No matter how nuch tuning i do trying everything it never seems to run if its stoich and it only runs nice when super rich. But filling the tank every three days when only driving 30 miles a day is not cool in my books. Oh and for that fact i would like to know if the yankees here know the general conversion of km to miles cause if you do i will stop making my approximate conversions for you guys. haha
well i believe its still building some compression but its probably low and after a while is starts to foul due to pooling evap. I HAD verified timing but i havent been able to re-verify as the light has magically gone out in my brand spanking new 200$ timing light. so i have to find the time to take that back too. Even if for some reason i find that it is the timing i am curious to see how the rings have seated and what my compression is. The other reason why i think its a low cylinder or 2 is i seem to continually foul 3 and 4.
brad you did change your trigger offset when you upgraded, right? hahah
Brad why is your dwell set so low?
I know you said you phoned about your coil packs but 3 for cranking and 2.1 for maximum seems low when mwextra says 6 cranking and 3.5 max running.
Also did you do a read over of the body? i noticed one point it refers to the "newer 2.0 code" did you mean 3.0.x code?
Brad why is your dwell set so low?
I know you said you phoned about your coil packs but 3 for cranking and 2.1 for maximum seems low when mwextra says 6 cranking and 3.5 max running.
Also did you do a read over of the body? i noticed one point it refers to the "newer 2.0 code" did you mean 3.0.x code?
ahh yes i was just refering to the fact that they had the 2.0.1 code then the 2.1.0 code and the 2.1.1 beta that im running and really like. It felt smoother just changing over and starting it with no tune changes. On the other hand i have no idea about the 3.0.x codes and i really stray from anything that has the word alpha associated with it.
Ya 2.1.1B did improve idle and other things, however the 3.0.3 actually does improve on 2.1.1b quite a bit itself. It once again improves idle, but the biggest thing is that map lag factor, and calulation thing. I know going from 2.1.1b to 3.0.3q you have to retune the fuel ve, it's like the first version change i've seen where you actually have to retune, but the 3.0.0 series is the future, 2.0.0 series is done. So i'm making the leap, since I have to retune with my wideband anyway.bornagain wrote:im pretty sure that the 2.1.1b code had that all "upgraded" in it ass swell. I noticed a way smoother idle and correction rate in mine when i switched to the 2.1.1b
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- Posts: 849
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
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