E28 Megasquirt FAQ
brad you did change your trigger offset when you upgraded, right? hahah
Brad why is your dwell set so low?
I know you said you phoned about your coil packs but 3 for cranking and 2.1 for maximum seems low when mwextra says 6 cranking and 3.5 max running.
Also did you do a read over of the body? i noticed one point it refers to the "newer 2.0 code" did you mean 3.0.x code?
Brad why is your dwell set so low?
I know you said you phoned about your coil packs but 3 for cranking and 2.1 for maximum seems low when mwextra says 6 cranking and 3.5 max running.
Also did you do a read over of the body? i noticed one point it refers to the "newer 2.0 code" did you mean 3.0.x code?
ahh yes i was just refering to the fact that they had the 2.0.1 code then the 2.1.0 code and the 2.1.1 beta that im running and really like. It felt smoother just changing over and starting it with no tune changes. On the other hand i have no idea about the 3.0.x codes and i really stray from anything that has the word alpha associated with it.
Ya 2.1.1B did improve idle and other things, however the 3.0.3 actually does improve on 2.1.1b quite a bit itself. It once again improves idle, but the biggest thing is that map lag factor, and calulation thing. I know going from 2.1.1b to 3.0.3q you have to retune the fuel ve, it's like the first version change i've seen where you actually have to retune, but the 3.0.0 series is the future, 2.0.0 series is done. So i'm making the leap, since I have to retune with my wideband anyway.bornagain wrote:im pretty sure that the 2.1.1b code had that all "upgraded" in it ass swell. I noticed a way smoother idle and correction rate in mine when i switched to the 2.1.1b
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- Posts: 849
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- Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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- Posts: 849
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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i did i did and i also set batt, clt, mat to 100 and bumped lambda up to 60. That has all helped but i am once again having problems with my vr circuit, it has started randomly dropping out at high load but it might also be a fuel issue, but the car dies out and i get a couple back fires and then it resumes working. so i am going to try to tune my pots. But i may have to order a couple new ones, one of them, cant tell you if its 52 or 56 off hand, doesnt click, never could find my starting point of back to the click and one turn forward....... what do you guys think could it have gone bad?
EDIT:
Here is a data log from this afternoon, about 3/4 the way you will see a whole crap load of lost sync.... just right click and go to the lost sync (if you have it as one of the feilds) and go to 122.
http://www.mediafire.com/?ogdjzw3m4hq
EDIT:
Here is a data log from this afternoon, about 3/4 the way you will see a whole crap load of lost sync.... just right click and go to the lost sync (if you have it as one of the feilds) and go to 122.
http://www.mediafire.com/?ogdjzw3m4hq
I talked to someone at MSD and the 2.1ms dwell was what they recommended. I actually bumped my cranking dwell up to 4.5ms today.bornagain wrote:brad you did change your trigger offset when you upgraded, right? hahah
Brad why is your dwell set so low?
I know you said you phoned about your coil packs but 3 for cranking and 2.1 for maximum seems low when mwextra says 6 cranking and 3.5 max running.
Also did you do a read over of the body? i noticed one point it refers to the "newer 2.0 code" did you mean 3.0.x code?
I also went through the text and did some housekeeping.
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- Posts: 849
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Virginia Beach, VA
- Contact:
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- Posts: 849
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Virginia Beach, VA
- Contact:
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- Joined: Mar 11, 2007 3:06 AM
- Location: Dallas, Texas
just bought a new dynex usb to serial cable.... 60$ better be the solve i was looking for. Tuned my pots in the other day and the signal is damn near perfect. i think from gap to tooth there is about .5% - 1% difference on the time and when it is finding the missing tooth its finding it all and registering nothing extra on the teeth on either side. Befor now i had about a 7-10% difference on time and a bit of overlap on the teeth on either side of the missing tooth. Wish me luck all, if it isnt this im not sure where else to go other then rip the board out and start replacing randon serial connection components.
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turned out it was the cable but the new one i bought didnt work at all, it would restart my computer if it was unplugged. I have the cable from diy which is a 2 peice cable one for the adapter and an extension peice for the usb cable, well the usb cable was bad so i found an old serial cable extension cord i had and i have no troubles with ts anymore. I still have a minor miss and alot of noise in my sensors but other then that the car is awesome.