For Sale- group buy in FS section: Infinite UCABs
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- Beamter
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For Sale- group buy in FS section: Infinite UCABs
We'll discuss the name later.
I have negotiated production of rebuildable ball joint upper control arm bushings. The price I can offer depends on how many I order at a time. I'd really like to hit the best pricing tier by ordering at least 25 sets. At that price I can offer them for $125 a set shipped (discounts for multiple sets.) These will fit E28 and E24, and will also fit the E32 and E34 once I track down (or make) the proper spacers for the spindles. They can be greased and rebuilt without removing the arm from the car. Replacement races are only ~$11 per bushing.
So let me know how many you want. No deposits necessary at this time, but once the pre-order is announced, I will take deposits.
Pics soon. Questions welcome.
I have negotiated production of rebuildable ball joint upper control arm bushings. The price I can offer depends on how many I order at a time. I'd really like to hit the best pricing tier by ordering at least 25 sets. At that price I can offer them for $125 a set shipped (discounts for multiple sets.) These will fit E28 and E24, and will also fit the E32 and E34 once I track down (or make) the proper spacers for the spindles. They can be greased and rebuilt without removing the arm from the car. Replacement races are only ~$11 per bushing.
So let me know how many you want. No deposits necessary at this time, but once the pre-order is announced, I will take deposits.
Pics soon. Questions welcome.
Last edited by mooseheadm5 on Apr 21, 2010 8:56 AM, edited 2 times in total.
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- Beamter
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BTW, I will try to work with the shop owner to see if he is interested in renting out the bushing press tool so you can install them with the arms still on the car.
In addition, I will be able to sell them installed into new arms of your choice. I will explore the prices of the arms and post that later.
In addition, I will be able to sell them installed into new arms of your choice. I will explore the prices of the arms and post that later.
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- Beamter
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- Beamter
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Y'know, there's a reason other than economy of manufacture that those are rubber - and that the aftermarket replacements are urethane. They're supposed to absorb some road shock as well as locating the arm. I think you'll find these far too harsh. 'Road feel' is one thing but feeling things about the road you didn't really want to know is another. I wouldn't run them in anything but a full race application.
This echoes my sentiments, though I would want to drive a car with these bushings in it to be sure. In the case of rubber versus poly bushings (not necessarily CABs), I approach it on a case by case basis, as sometimes I've found no appreciable difference, and other times it's been a notably harsher "feel" with the poly bushings.C.R. Krieger wrote:Y'know, there's a reason other than economy of manufacture that those are rubber - and that the aftermarket replacements are urethane. They're supposed to absorb some road shock as well as locating the arm. I think you'll find these far too harsh. 'Road feel' is one thing but feeling things about the road you didn't really want to know is another. I wouldn't run them in anything but a full race application.
Comparing the feel of the car with stock versus the 750i type UCAB, there is also a distinct difference, but the 750i type still has a damped quality. 17 years ago, before I did my own wrenching, I had a local shop install 750i bushings (he milled them himself) in my old 535i. I hated them, so I got under the car and was appalled that they milled the whole bushing down so that the middle of the bushing was the same width as the outside, and the outside of the bushing was trapped in the mounting ears, so there was no flex in the bushing and the ride and steering feel was harsh. I made them remove the bushings and machine the outside of the bushing and it made a huge difference.
Those joints require a special tool to tighten them up if you ever replaced the inner bearing, cost like $50 plus shipping. My buddy just went through that on his jeep with long arm suspension which uses those same joints. Just some food for thought.mooseheadm5 wrote:Got a few more interested parties at the BBQ today. That puts us really close to the best pricing tier. Pic of what they will look like.
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I'm currently running e31 LCA's with spherical bearings and much stiffer transmissions and engine mounts and haven't noticed much of an increase in NVH, for what it's worth. I expected those items to impact ride quality a lot more than they have.C.R. Krieger wrote:Y'know, there's a reason other than economy of manufacture that those are rubber - and that the aftermarket replacements are urethane. They're supposed to absorb some road shock as well as locating the arm. I think you'll find these far too harsh. 'Road feel' is one thing but feeling things about the road you didn't really want to know is another. I wouldn't run them in anything but a full race application.
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- Beamter
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You're in luck. The races for these are not metal, they look like this:C.R. Krieger wrote:Y'know, there's a reason other than economy of manufacture that those are rubber - and that the aftermarket replacements are urethane. They're supposed to absorb some road shock as well as locating the arm. I think you'll find these far too harsh. 'Road feel' is one thing but feeling things about the road you didn't really want to know is another. I wouldn't run them in anything but a full race application.
They have some give to them, unlike solid ball joint types
The tool retails for $24+shipping but I have purchased one and am more than happy to loan it out when it comes time to rebuild them.Those joints require a special tool to tighten them up if you ever replaced the inner bearing, cost like $50 plus shipping. My buddy just went through that on his jeep with long arm suspension which uses those same joints. Just some food for thought.
The Jeep mud bogger guys don't seem to need seals for them. Also, the replacement races are pretty cheap (~12 per joint) so they can be renewed infinitely.I sure hope we can fit weather seals to that bad boy! Otherwise, "infinite" will be rather defined. Laugh
More questions and concerns are welcome. I will forward any of them that I can't answer on to the company making them.
Not to quibble, but they probably simply don't care that they have to be rebuilt.mooseheadm5 wrote:The Jeep mud bogger guys don't seem to need seals for them. Also, the replacement races are pretty cheap (~12 per joint) so they can be renewed infinitely.I sure hope we can fit weather seals to that bad boy! Otherwise, "infinite" will be rather defined.
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Even if they did increase harshness noticeable, I really don't give a damn, haha. I'm sure others here would agree.derrith wrote:I'm currently running e31 LCA's with spherical bearings and much stiffer transmissions and engine mounts and haven't noticed much of an increase in NVH, for what it's worth. I expected those items to impact ride quality a lot more than they have.C.R. Krieger wrote:Y'know, there's a reason other than economy of manufacture that those are rubber - and that the aftermarket replacements are urethane. They're supposed to absorb some road shock as well as locating the arm. I think you'll find these far too harsh. 'Road feel' is one thing but feeling things about the road you didn't really want to know is another. I wouldn't run them in anything but a full race application.
FWIW, I didn't notice any difference going back and forth between Grunts polys, stock, E32 and Meyle HD. I dunno if that makes me a hard ass or a softie. Of course on the minefield like roads out here maybe the bumps aren't the little ones others worry about. And California used to have such good roads.
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Paul, the more you post stuff the more credible you become (in my mind anyway) www.sealsit.com has dust seals that will work with spherical bearings and rod ends.
Paul
Paul
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- Beamter
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Cool, thanks! I should have my first pair in by Wednesday (the ones I have to modify to fit) so I will get the dimensions and see about making seals available for them. Reportedly, they have run for years in other applications with no lube and no seals with no change in joint tightness, though I will disassemble, lube, and set joint tightness of each pair before I ship them out.paul burke wrote:Paul, the more you post stuff the more credible you become (in my mind anyway) www.sealsit.com has dust seals that will work with spherical bearings and rod ends.
Paul
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- Beamter
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Thanks for the link, Paul.
My bushings arrive tomorrow. Once I get them modded I'll take measurements for seals. It looks like a regular rod end seal will fit and they will only add about $10 to the cost of a pair of joints if anyone wants them. Unfortunately this will add 2.4mm to the mounted width of the joints so you may need to spread the mounting ears a tad to use seals.
My bushings arrive tomorrow. Once I get them modded I'll take measurements for seals. It looks like a regular rod end seal will fit and they will only add about $10 to the cost of a pair of joints if anyone wants them. Unfortunately this will add 2.4mm to the mounted width of the joints so you may need to spread the mounting ears a tad to use seals.
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I felt the same difference when I installed urethane bushings. I found it tolerable, but I wouldn't want any less compliance in that bushing. I am pretty sure that you, like me, probably made the one change and saw how it felt instead of totally rebuilding the suspension and drivetrain mounts so you couldn't tell what made the difference. I'm not exactly the pansy-ass a few of you want to think I am. I'm good in competition and on the track and I appreciate what it takes to make the car good at that; but I am also a big fan of 'run what ya brung' and if the car is miserable for the 12-hour drive from here to Watkins Glen or worse, for the 8-mile run to town for gas, I'm not gonna be a happy camper.Shawn D. wrote:I could feel the difference in the steering wheel when I installed Grunts -- I could feel expansion joints and small debris.Mike W. wrote:FWIW, I didn't notice any difference going back and forth between Grunts polys, stock, E32 and Meyle HD. I dunno if that makes me a hard ass or a softie.