Moosehead Eng. UCABs have arrived! 2/2/11 (grp. buy closed)
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Moosehead Eng. UCABs have arrived! 2/2/11 (grp. buy closed)
**Please, no PMs. The inbox fills far too quickly for me to keep track. Feel free to ask any questions in the thread. Please send all orders or questions that you don't want to post to buyucabs at gmail.com **
OK, you have waited long enough.
Round 2 of Moosehead Engineering UCABs!
These will be the same as the ones offered during the last run. Thanks to the positive feedback of the early adopters, I will have another run made. As I mentioned in the original thread here the price will be slightly higher for this next set, but since I will keep them in stock from now on, there is still a discount for doing this group buy style. Shipping is on me!
Pair of unassembled UCABs - $125 shipped
Pair of assembled and lubed UCABs - $140 shipped
Set of 4 races, which will rebuild one pair of UCABs - $22
Rebuild tool - $23
Silver kit – includes pair of unassembled UCABs, set of 4 spare races, and rebuild tool -$165 shipped
Gold kit - includes pair of assembled UCABs, set of races and tool with tube of high temperature grease - $180 shipped
Platinum kit with bushings pressed into your choice of new arms assembled, lubed, tensioned and ready to bolt up– price on request.
Additional pairs of UCABs purchased in the same order will cost $5 less per pair.
Please send 50% deposits to buyucabs at gmail.com
These fit E31, E32, and E34 with the aid of a pair of spacer washers, which are included on request. Please make sure you specify that you need them in your order. No washers are needed for E28 or E24.
Unassembled UCABs will need to have the races pressed in place. This can be done with a press or a large vise. If you don't have access to either, I would recommend buying them assembled since the races cannot be pressed in by hand or tapped in with a mallet.
UCABs which are sold assembled will not be fully tensioned. I learned that the preload must be set once the bushing is pressed into the control arm or else there is a risk of the joint binding from being too tight or knocking from being too loose. If they are run too tight or too loose for too long, the races may wear prematurely and require race replacement due to uneven wear. Though the tool is not required to assemble or tension the bushings, it does make the job a lot easier. You can use a pin wrench or a suitably sized set of snap ring pliers or right angle needle nose. I have all these things and will choose the purpose made tool any day of the week.
All UCABs should be greased. Though the manufacturer states that it is possible to run without grease, it is highly recommended that you use a small amount of high temperature bearing grease on the races when assembling them. Alternately, they can be greased through a hole in the body of the bushing before being pressed into the control arm.
If you purchased a set in the first group buy, please indicate this when you order. I will probably remember, but best to remind me.
But what about LCABs?
Well, I have not had enough time to test them. The metal on the shell is thinner and I don't want to send anything out there that could fail prematurely. The whole point of these things is that they last pretty much forever, so I won't sell anything that is flimsy. They will come. Anyone that has ordered UCABs already or orders in this buy will be given a special introductory discount when the LCABs are launched.
Group buy end date and date that deposits are required are still to be determined.
**Please, no PMs. The inbox fills far too quickly for me to keep track. Feel free to ask any questions in the thread. Please send all orders or questions that you don't want to post to buyucabs at gmail.com **
These are offered for racing purposes only with no warranty, but I will provide as much support as possible and will replace any parts with manufacturing defects.
OK, you have waited long enough.
Round 2 of Moosehead Engineering UCABs!
These will be the same as the ones offered during the last run. Thanks to the positive feedback of the early adopters, I will have another run made. As I mentioned in the original thread here the price will be slightly higher for this next set, but since I will keep them in stock from now on, there is still a discount for doing this group buy style. Shipping is on me!
Pair of unassembled UCABs - $125 shipped
Pair of assembled and lubed UCABs - $140 shipped
Set of 4 races, which will rebuild one pair of UCABs - $22
Rebuild tool - $23
Silver kit – includes pair of unassembled UCABs, set of 4 spare races, and rebuild tool -$165 shipped
Gold kit - includes pair of assembled UCABs, set of races and tool with tube of high temperature grease - $180 shipped
Platinum kit with bushings pressed into your choice of new arms assembled, lubed, tensioned and ready to bolt up– price on request.
Additional pairs of UCABs purchased in the same order will cost $5 less per pair.
Please send 50% deposits to buyucabs at gmail.com
These fit E31, E32, and E34 with the aid of a pair of spacer washers, which are included on request. Please make sure you specify that you need them in your order. No washers are needed for E28 or E24.
Unassembled UCABs will need to have the races pressed in place. This can be done with a press or a large vise. If you don't have access to either, I would recommend buying them assembled since the races cannot be pressed in by hand or tapped in with a mallet.
UCABs which are sold assembled will not be fully tensioned. I learned that the preload must be set once the bushing is pressed into the control arm or else there is a risk of the joint binding from being too tight or knocking from being too loose. If they are run too tight or too loose for too long, the races may wear prematurely and require race replacement due to uneven wear. Though the tool is not required to assemble or tension the bushings, it does make the job a lot easier. You can use a pin wrench or a suitably sized set of snap ring pliers or right angle needle nose. I have all these things and will choose the purpose made tool any day of the week.
All UCABs should be greased. Though the manufacturer states that it is possible to run without grease, it is highly recommended that you use a small amount of high temperature bearing grease on the races when assembling them. Alternately, they can be greased through a hole in the body of the bushing before being pressed into the control arm.
If you purchased a set in the first group buy, please indicate this when you order. I will probably remember, but best to remind me.
But what about LCABs?
Well, I have not had enough time to test them. The metal on the shell is thinner and I don't want to send anything out there that could fail prematurely. The whole point of these things is that they last pretty much forever, so I won't sell anything that is flimsy. They will come. Anyone that has ordered UCABs already or orders in this buy will be given a special introductory discount when the LCABs are launched.
Group buy end date and date that deposits are required are still to be determined.
**Please, no PMs. The inbox fills far too quickly for me to keep track. Feel free to ask any questions in the thread. Please send all orders or questions that you don't want to post to buyucabs at gmail.com **
These are offered for racing purposes only with no warranty, but I will provide as much support as possible and will replace any parts with manufacturing defects.
Last edited by mooseheadm5 on Feb 03, 2011 10:49 PM, edited 6 times in total.
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Re: Group buy #2- Moosehead Engineering UCABs
For those of us that bought a set from the first group, what is the proper procedure for setting the preload once they are pressed into a new set of controm arms?mooseheadm5 wrote:UCABs which are sold assembled will not be fully tensioned. I learned that the preload must be set once the bushing is pressed into the control arm or else there is a risk of the joint binding from being too tight or knocking from being too loose. If they are run too tight or too loose for too long, the races may wear prematurely and require race replacement due to uneven wear.
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Preload is probably the wrong term, in that you don't actually want any. You should be able to move the ball with little force, but it should have nearly no endplay. The notches mean that you can only set it in 60 degree increments. I prefer to err on the loose side since tolerances with these seem to shrink when they get hot.
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I missed the first round but I'm in this time.
I will email order info shortly. Thanks.
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They are open to the elements, but that doesn't seem to bother them. I have run them on my daily driver 525iT all summer with no seals and no wear at all. I can obtain some seals designed for rod ends, but you will have to tweak the mounts a couple mm for clearance. If you are interested in those, let me know.
You will notice an increase in NVH, but it is similar to stiff poly bushings, only there is no squeak at all.
You will notice an increase in NVH, but it is similar to stiff poly bushings, only there is no squeak at all.
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Tell all your friends with E24, E28, E31, E32, or E34s!
I want to open it up to people over at Bimmerforums, but I have to look into becoming a sponsor to do it, and don't think it is worth it. Won't know unless they email me back, though. In the mean time, if you are members of other boards (not there, I don't want to cause any trouble) feel free to post about this group buy. Already going over on the M5 board (I got a 1 time pass to do the buy.)
Thanks guys, keep those orders coming in!
I want to open it up to people over at Bimmerforums, but I have to look into becoming a sponsor to do it, and don't think it is worth it. Won't know unless they email me back, though. In the mean time, if you are members of other boards (not there, I don't want to cause any trouble) feel free to post about this group buy. Already going over on the M5 board (I got a 1 time pass to do the buy.)
Thanks guys, keep those orders coming in!
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