T-build.SHE'S ALIVE!!!!!!!

[grey ghost]

Well things don't seem to be going my way.
One shipment went to the wrong place and had to be rerouted.
My cam and rockers arrived at the machine shop only to find that there was no cam.
It seems as though a rodent of some sort chewed into the shipping box and the cam box and the cam seems to have slid out and is nowhere to be found, not that I would accept it after sliding out of the box anyway.

So the build that was supposed to go full blast this weekend will have to way until UPS does an investigation.


I did however receive some key exhaust parts, my 533 passenger side motor mount and some other parts.
Awaiting cam, chip, wire set, injectors, ARP head studs.
I'm guess since I'm doing this alone and for the 1st time, 100 hours and a few busted knucles will be about it.


But there is a lot of prep that needs to be done so all isn't lost.
Placement and plumbing of the intercooler seems to be my biggest issue.
I have the 745 oem one but would like to replace that with a long skinny one to place up front.
But since the oil cooler will be occupying that space, I'm out of ideas.

AND yes there will be mass quantities of pictures.

• 

[AlpinaE24]

Nice, I'm excited

[Bronzit]

Nice, I'm excited

x2.

[Eta power]

I find this fascinating and will be following this thread. Good luck!

[Brad D.]

I look forward to the results. Hopefully all goes well.

[grey ghost]

Made a little progress today on the prep work.
I got all four motor mounts sorted out. The two bottom bolt holes that are not used with the standard 535 mount were pretty rusty.
I hit them with some PB blaster and rethreaded the holes.The bolts held nice and tight.


I fabbed up a heat shield for my brake lines and the other electrical items that run that path.
Its not finished yet but I thought I'd throw up a few pictures.
I felt like a true fabricator as I beat this heat shielding into shape.
It was originally the piece that goes in the midsection of the car right above the resonators.
I had to beat it flat and use a 6x6 block of wood to fold the edges so they wont be shape.

[9mil]

I'm liking this.... keep the pics coming!

[grey ghost]

Intercooler and fan.

I've found an intercooler which has 528 cubic inches of core space, much greater than the ~250 cubic inches the OEM 745i turbo intercooler has.
Overall dimension as 18x12x4.
Pressure Drop: 2~5psi@35psi; 0.2~0.5psi@15psi
Working Pressure: 5~50PSI
Compress Air Flow Rate: <600Cubic Feet/Min, Rated to 400 Max HP
My setup will never see 400hp so I'll never max this unit out, 300 on the best day with a stage 3 TCD car pushing me .



I'm going to move the battery to the trunk.
I will cut the battery tray out and fit the intercooler with the inlet/outlet facing up/down with them on the outer side of the battery compartment.
~3.5" of the intercooler will sit below the tray.
I have also found a 10" fan good for 1550cfm to mount to the front of it.


In addition to that, I'm going to fabricate a sheet metal box that will extend down below ther front valance to scoop air and divert it to the intercooler.
The opening to the scoop will be ~4"x12" and will have some chicken screen on it to keep large unwanted items out..
I'm sure the fan will be enough to keep air move across the intercooler but I don't want it to be hot engine compartment air.
I've done some measurements and the intercooler will fit but I'm going to do about a 1/4" of massage to allow for some rubber bushings.

I won"t buy these items until I have the turbo mounted in the car.
I have a basic configuration on the plumbing but need to have everthing mounted before I pull the trigger and purchase.
But I'm pretty sure its a go.......

Now I'm just waiting for the cam so I can really get this thing moving.

[mooseheadm5]

You doing a flipped intake manifold?

[grey ghost]

You doing a flipped intake manifold?

No, I going to route the plumbing down and across the front, up thru the intercooler, then it will go up along the plain side of the intake, along the firewall and U-turn into the intake tube.
I know thats a long way to travel, but options are few.
I can't really say until the turbo is mounted, but standing over the engine bay, it looks like it will work.
At least thats the plan for now.
I was hoping George could fab me up a downpipe with the quickness but he said it would take until the end of the summer.
But thats a goods thing, "busy pays the bills." I'm glad he is busy.
He was my only option as I know he can do it without having the car in the shop.
I'll have to tow the car in and tow it back as I don't want to risk running it while not at home where I can quickly tend to any issues.

[grey ghost]

Below is a picture of the intake tube from my m102. The piece on the small end I believe is the BOV, but I'm not 100% sure, enlighten me.
Also, there are two vacuum ports on it, one I feel goes to the bottom of the intake, but the other has a vacuum tube that goes to a sensor of some sort with a wire that goes somewhere, enlighten me on that too please.

I look at Clongo's and Batesy's engine bay picture and their intake tube is void of this piece.
I think the m102 has this but the m106 does not.
Anyway, what do I need to do with this?
Should I cap the one with the wire and just use the other and connect it to one of the nipples under the intake?

[Hit Man X]

Yes that is the bypass valve for the M102, it recirculates the air back into the turbocharger post AFM. It is already metered air. Top tit on the valve goes to the intake manifold. The tit on the side is for the small Hobbs switch you have hanging around which cut power in the event of an overboost on the Ljet. So use the first one, plug the second one.

Two left are for the Euro idle control system. Part 6 and Part 8... http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=35

Yes, I am aware they are under 'Engine Cooling'



Now you know.

[grey ghost]

I got the oil cooler and an e34 AC condensor fan mounted today.

[grey ghost]

Came across these today while doing some research om my oil return.
Your thought please.

[T_C_D]

You want to return it at the top of the pan not the bottom.

[AlpinaE24]

That looks like a big smoke cloud waiting to happen.

[Nebraska_e28]

I 'personally' wouldn't chance it. 'If' you knew the pressure differential running it that way & how much it would affect flow that would be the deciding factor. I'm no turbo genius, but it's not that difficult to tap the oil pan & not take any risks. My $.02

\edit

You can pickup plenty of used oil at your local AZ for the drilling process if you let them know to hold onto some for ya. Just tell em I sent ya!

[Brad D.]

I am in agreement with the above 3 posts. I would not do it that way. Do it once, do it right.

[Duke]

Dirty engines.

[turbodan]

You're going to saturate that intercooler mighty quick. The thing with air to air intercoolers is that you always need a lot more capacity than you think you do. You'll need three that size to keep IAT's down.

[grey ghost]

You're going to saturate that intercooler mighty quick. The thing with air to air intercoolers is that you always need a lot more capacity than you think you do. You'll need three that size to keep IAT's down.

I recieved that 10" fan in the mail yesterday and blows big air, wont that help.

You can pickup plenty of used oil at your local AZ for the drilling process if you let them know to hold onto some for ya. Just tell em I sent ya!

Thanks guys. I can feel the love.
How do you guys feel about tapping the block at one of the bosses?
Would the used oil be for flushing the scrapings?
Just for 100% clarity.
I'm also afraid of this oil pan tap job just a little.......
If I screw up, I'll have to change the oil pan, and thats a real PITA.
If the pan was easily removable, I'd pull it and tap it with a bolt type fitting as to ensure no leakage.

[turbodan]

I doubt it but we'll see. Consider that you're going to be moving 25-30 lbs/min of air through there, at temps of 250+ degrees.

You list dimensions of 18x12x4. Is that picture an accurate representation of your intercooler?

[grey ghost]

I doubt it but we'll see. Consider that you're going to be moving 25-30 lbs/min of air through there, at temps of 250+ degrees.

You list dimensions of 18x12x4. Is that picture an accurate representation of your intercooler?

Its the actual unit. The core dimensions are 2.3 times that of the stock 745i turbo intercooler core.
In addition to that I'll be blowing air across it continuously.
I'm sure winter driving will be nice with the frigid air being inhaled and being blown across the intercooler.
But you are right, we'll see.
Got my fingers crossed, but with you being one of the resident experts, it looks as though it may have been a waste of money.....

[grey ghost]

So, one of the things I've been contemplating is the oil light flicker that comes and goes every few months.
Before I blew the head gasket, it was flickering at low rpm's and would go out and stay out with a little touch of the throttle.
I figure now that the car is going to be pulled apart, I should drop the pan, do the tap on the bench and change the pump.
This way I can put a nut on the fitting inside the pan to ensure a tight leak free fit.
Gotta to keep the oil right. I don't want to go this far and blow the turbo thru oil starvation.

[T_C_D]

So, one of the things I've been contemplating is the oil light flicker that comes and goes every few months.
Before I blew the head gasket, it was flickering at low RPM and would go out and stay out with a little touch of the throttle.
I figure now that the car is going to be pulled apart, I should drop the pan, do the tap on the bench and change the pump.
This way I can put a nut on the fitting inside the pan to ensure a tight leak free fit.
Gotta to keep the oil right. I don't want to go this far and blow the turbo thru oil starvation.

The slippery slope has begun.

[grey ghost]

So, one of the things I've been contemplating is the oil light flicker that comes and goes every few months.
Before I blew the head gasket, it was flickering at low RPM and would go out and stay out with a little touch of the throttle.
I figure now that the car is going to be pulled apart, I should drop the pan, do the tap on the bench and change the pump.
This way I can put a nut on the fitting inside the pan to ensure a tight leak free fit.
Gotta to keep the oil right. I don't want to go this far and blow the turbo thru oil starvation.

The slippery slope has begun.

Thats not funny.

[George]

So, one of the things I've been contemplating is the oil light flicker that comes and goes every few months.
Before I blew the head gasket, it was flickering at low RPM and would go out and stay out with a little touch of the throttle.
I figure now that the car is going to be pulled apart, I should drop the pan, do the tap on the bench and change the pump.
This way I can put a nut on the fitting inside the pan to ensure a tight leak free fit.
Gotta to keep the oil right. I don't want to go this far and blow the turbo thru oil starvation.

If you drop the pump I will weld on a bung for you if you pay shipping on the pan. I still feel bad for not being able to make the DP for you.

[grey ghost]

So, one of the things I've been contemplating is the oil light flicker that comes and goes every few months.
Before I blew the head gasket, it was flickering at low RPM and would go out and stay out with a little touch of the throttle.
I figure now that the car is going to be pulled apart, I should drop the pan, do the tap on the bench and change the pump.
This way I can put a nut on the fitting inside the pan to ensure a tight leak free fit.
Gotta to keep the oil right. I don't want to go this far and blow the turbo thru oil starvation.

If you drop the pump I will weld on a bung for you if you pay shipping on the pan. I still feel bad for not being able to make the DP for you.

Don't feel bad. With the economy the way it is, I'm very happy that you are too busy to fit me in.
Like I said before, "busy pays the bills."

[grey ghost]

Got the head off today. That was a bitch. That last bolt on the bottom of the intake was a MF.
HG did not look to bad, not that I would know the differenc.
BUT, some of the head bolts felt a little loose when taking them out.
They definitley were not torqued to spec for sure.
I was wondering if I had checked the torque if I would ass deep rebuild.
Injectors were filthy.
Installed e23 hood shock so she will be wide open.
Moved the battery to the trunk.
Rewired my headlight switch. I took it out to change the bracket and the plastic backing that holds the wires crumbled.

I zip tied the sprocket to the chain so I would have to worry about it being on the right tooth.





Picking up my fresh head tomorrow.

[grey ghost]

Got the head back with b35 cam.





Cleaned and sprayed my valve cover.



Since It was off, I cleaned up my intake. I have no clue how to get the throttle body as clean as the intake. That thing was too filthy to photograph.



Cleaned and painted my clutch fan pulley.
I also put a shine on my water pump, upper timing chain cover, termostat housing, intake charge pipe, oil filter housing and some other stuff. Thats what vacations are for...



The head may go in tomorrow. I just need another set of hands I can trust.