I've been asked by a few people now how I went about servicing my inoperable, or temperamental window switches, aforementioned in another thread. Figured a writeup may be useful. I've purposly included large photo's for ease of reference.
First of all, if you have access to a known good switch, in the same, or better aesthetic condition to the broken one,it makes sense to replace it as servicing them is not a %100 permanent fix, and i've seen some so badly worn they can't be fixed. Please note the switch pictured is a non-lighted version. The lighted version has a slightly different internal design, listed at the bottom of the thread.
Firstly (obviously) remove the problem switch from it's space, and disconnect. This is what you have.
On each side of the housing, there are 2 retainer clips. Using a small jewelers screwdriver, pry these clips away from the housings, being careful not too apply to much leverage. It's possible to split the casing, and that will make a secure refitting difficult. If you look carefully at the switch, you'll notice the side with the part number on it has a small slit, whereas the other side does not. Pry from this 'part number' side first.
Once the first side is popped clear, repeat the process on the opposite side to fully remove the center from the housing. This is what you should have.
Looking at the pin side first, you'll notice four circular raised contacts. When the button is pressed, the raised contacts on the button side connect with these, and are what provide signal to the regulator motor. The two center contacts will likely be black, and noticeably worn or corroded. Remove the surface corrosion with some fine sandpaper, but only until the surface is clean. Be careful not to scrape too much of the contact away. Repeat on the other contact surfaces.
You'll notice the two center contacts are a single tensioned piece. Put your screwdriver under this, and pry it up around a mm. Don't pry it too high. This will allow the depression of the button to be minimal in order to connect the contacts, and will place less strain on the return spring and tensioned contact area. The photo below should be a good indication of where it should be sitting once raised.
Now move onto the buttons. They simply push out of the housing from the inside. You'll similarly notice on the two contacts here, how the corresponding contact tab is corroded and worn. Remove the corrosion as mentioned earlier. Although the contact piece and spring can be removed from the switch, there's no need so simply leave it connected. You cannot adjust the contact tabs on the button as they're secured by a plastic housing, so once it's clean, repeat with the other button. I recc. doing one button at a time, and taking note of the direction the arrow is pointing to ensure correct re-assembly as it can be easy to mix them up or install them upside down.
Now you're ready to reassemble. The two parts should go together with a little force, and cannot be reversed by mistake as the mould in the housing only accepts the innards in the correct position. Also, make sure the black metal retainer clips which secure the switch to the console/door card are in the right position before you push the two halves together.
Plug in and test.
Lighted Switches
Essentially, these are exactly the same in design to the regular switches, with the obvious exception being the included globes and translucent arrow prints.
The globes need to be removed before the adjustment of the tensioned contact plate and be performed.
They easily pop out and can be replaced at this point.
That concludes this writeup!
I'll resize em. 