MyE28.com

The E28 knowledge level on this board never ceases to amaze me. Case in point:

PO left me with both of the original filler plates that go on either side of the stereo. One is un-blemished. The other has a hole in the middle, just the right size of a LED. He also left me two additional filler plates that don't actually match the texture of the console, nor do they fit correctly.

I look at the pictures of the differently textured filler plates, and I'm thinking "they're probably extras from different cars, from different years, and the pattern was changed along the way by BMW. Made sense to me.

I read the next post, from Kyle, logged 14 minutes after CEK's that hits the nail on the head:

The two that don't match go in the rear part of your center console, between the seats. They cover the access holes for the rear console retaining screws.

Dayyuumm...........that's good!

Jim

BaT has done a "success story" on Vlad based on the note I wrote them.

http://bringatrailer.com/2013/04/11/bat ... -bmw-535is

cek wrote:BaT has done a "success story" on Vlad based on the note I wrote them.

http://bringatrailer.com/2013/04/11/bat ... -bmw-535is

Very cool! Looks like you and I were doing a very similar trip around the same time! I even sold my FJ60 to buy mine! Ha. Mine was Phoenix to San Diego and all the way up 101, back home to Tacoma. So much fun. Congrats!

Tonight I dug into doing the following

• Fixing the burned out bulbs in the instrument cluster and headlight/foglight switches
• Greasing the new odometer gears the PO recently installed that are making that annoying grinding noise.
• Moving the bluetooth hands-free mic from above the instrument cluster to up by the driver's sunshade
• Installing the remote display for my new Valentine One radar locator
• Preparing the wiring for my USB power plug adapter i'm going to install next to the stereo.

I'm mostly done, but I didn't get to the auto parts store in time today to get bulbs so I will have to finish putting it back together tomorrow.

To do all this I need to remove the center console, stereo/hvac control module, and instrument panel. Based on thread's I've read here an my Bentleys it all went pretty smoothly.



I realized removing the steering wheel would make getting the instrument cluster out easy (possible?) and would generally ease working, so I pulled it off too.



Gawd I love doing shit like this.



Great threads here on mye28 made it clear how to pull instrument cluster apart and get the speedometer out.



No grease.



Some grease.



I used a q-tip and dabbed a little grease on the gears as I carefully rotated them with my fingernail. I didn't feel like taking the assembly apart; worked fine.

Some of the lighbulbs are clearly burned out (e.g. the one from the headlight switch). Others I wasn't sure so I wanted to test them. An old 12V AC adapter and some voltmeter probes made an instant tester:





I had no idea what the blubs looked like before I started this project. Here's a pic for others, just so you know.



Some sort of PO repair on the foglight switch bulb socket. Also you can see that a PO did some modification to the bracket. There was some old wiring in there too; he tells me back in the day he had an old skool cell phone wired in there somehow.





The new location for the BT hands-free mic. I'm hoping this picks up my voice better than it did down on the instrument cluster.



The V1 gets mounted up in front of the rear view mirror. The rear facing sensor sticks out to the right so it can 'see' out the rear window. On my '95 540 M-Sport I mounted an RJ11 jack up there (http://www.kindel.com/bmw/valone.htm). For the E28 I decided to just have the wire come through the slight gap between the headliner and windshield.





The nice thing about this mount is that the detector fairly inconspicuous from outside the car and completely hidden from the driver (the mirror shields it). The passenger has to see it, but who cares about the passenger?

The hard-wired power adapter for the Valentine One is hooked into the ignition switched power lead for the stereo. I mounted it under the left side of the stereo (using the included velcro). You can see it in the center of this picture with the two RJ11s coming out of it. I made a short RJ11 cord to go from the power adapter to the remote display (the gray one).



For the remote display I decided I didn't want it on the instrument cluster shelf like I did on my M-Sport (see pics in link above). Instead I decided I was going to mount it just below the shelf on the right side of the steering wheel. Right above the ejector seat button. With it there it is visible through the steering wheel and the mute button is easy to press with the right hand.

To do this I made a little bracket from an old computer case hard drive bay blank.



I drilled a hole in the bracket that the screw that holds the dash kick cover in place will go through. The bracket is angled so that when the display is attached to it (with velcro) it is angled toward the driver's eyes.



Here's roughly how it will look with the wheel in place. The flash shows off the bottom edge of the silver bracket. If I find it is visible when done, it'll be easy to trim so it is not visible.



While I had everything apart vacuumed and cleaned everything well. There was some dust and grime build up behind the stereo and under the center console, but it wasn't too bad. I have the center console back in. Tomorrow I'll put the instrument cluster back in after a trip to the auto-parts store for bulbs.



Fun stuff!

While putting things back together I broke the headlight/foglight bracket thing completely.



Now I desperately need a new one.

Anyone?!?!

Did you find a source for the window switch bulbs? I need some and I don't know what to ask for when I go to the auto parts/electronics store

E30Pierre wrote:Did you find a source for the window switch bulbs? I need some and I don't know what to ask for when I go to the auto parts/electronics store

I found that O'Reilly auto parts carries the 2721 bare bulb which works great any of the applications where the bulb pulls out of the holder (as seen in the middle of the pic above).

However the 2721MF which look like they might work for the instrument cluster bulbs (on the left) do NOT work. The red plastic base is too large a diameter and they don't screw in correctly.

Also the PC194 seen on the right, which I thought would work to replace the upper two builbs the illumniate the dials also do not work.

Tomorrow I'm going to the BMW dealer to see if can source the bulbs from them.

Finished up the instrument cluster/console/radar detector project this morning (sans new bulbs in the instrument cluster).

First, the pics I took last night made it clear the gray RJ11 wire I built for the V1 remote display looked like crap. So I hacked the one that came with the V1 to be shorter.



I made the bracket smaller so it was not visible at all too. Here's how the display looks installed.



Cluster back in. Everything works except the one burned out bulb for the fog light on indicator.



Makes me happy to see these lit up.



All done!

And of course I needed to give the car a wash.

And since it's such a pretty day, go for a drive.

Took care of two things this morning. First, I dropped by my favorite suspension/wheel/tire guy, Byron at Tru-Line Seattle (in Bellevue) to have him do an inspection and advise me on my planned suspension refresh/upgrade. Byron is amazing. I've gone to him for years and won't let anyone else touch my 911. Great attention to detail.

He looked everything over, said he was super impressed with the car, and recommended the following:

• REPLACE FRONT TIE ROD ASSEMBLIES
• ADJUST THE STEERING GEAR SECTOR BEARINGS.
• INSTALL NEW END LINKS IF DESIRED, THEY ARE PERFORMING WELL BUT HAVE THE GREASE BOOT ISSUE.
• REPLACE REAR SUSPENSION SUB-FRAME MOUNT BUSHINGS, DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT AND WHILE DOING THESE ITEMS INSTALL A CAMBER/TOE CORRECTION KIT AS WELL.
• INSTALL NEW FRONT AND REAR STRUTS, COILS AND FRONT UPPER STRUT MOUNTS, IDEALLY WITH A FULLY ADJUSTABLE UNIT.
• NEW TIRES AND WHEELS AS YOU HAVE PLANNED
• FULL FOUR WAY ALIGNMENT

He's given me an estimate on labor and recommends I source my own parts. I've already acquired a set of new Bilstein HDs. Now I get to find everything else (e.g. pick what springs I want) and decide whether I have the time to do the work myself or do the old checkbook thing. I budgeted a nice buffer for this car, so I won't mind paying, but I would much rather do the work myself if I can find the time.

I then went by the BMW dealer for some parts. They had all the instrument bulbs I needed, the diagnostics port cover, and a new brake wear sensor in stock. The replacement headlight/foglight switch bracket should be here Wednesday.



I needed a new brake wear sensor, because one of the ones in front is apparently too short for the 740iL brakes and is currently not connected (according to the PO... I haven't taken the wheels off yet to look myself). The one in this pic is from a 740iL and should be long enough. If not, I'll just modify the existing one and return this one.

While I already have some strong opinions, I'll happily take other's thoughts on what parts I should buy, and where I should buy them for the following:

• Lowering springs. I don't want anything stiff, just lower. H&R or Eibachs.
• Front tie-rod assemblies
• Steering gear sector bearings
• End links (or just the grease boots)
• Rear sub-frame mount bushings
• diff mount
• Camber/toe correction kit
• Front upper strut mounts, fully adjustable
• Front strut tower brace (used is fine for this).

You, my friend, are thorough. Good for you.

Suspension parts inbound:

• Powerflex Rear Subframe Bushings (via Pelican)
• Idler Arm Bushings (via Pelican)
• End Links (via Pelican)
• Bilstein Sport / H&R Spring Package (via Turner Motorsports)
• Tie-rods (via Turner Motorsports)
• K-MAC Stage 1 Street front strut camber plates/mounts (via Turner Motorsports)
• K-MAC Stage 1 Street rear camber and toe kit (via Turner Motorsports)
• Diff mount (via www.rmeuropean.com)

Still undecided on who's going to install, me or my checkbook.

Also, inbound from @alpinass:

• Style 32s with OEM finish 17x8.
• Shadowline trim kit

In hand or inbound, just waiting for time to take care of

• New plugs
• New cap/rotor
• New plug wires
• New Ox sensor
• New fuel filter
• Valve cover gasket
• M30B35 Starter (dreading this one, given what I've read)

Still looking for a strut tower brace. Anyone got one? I'll post a WTB in that section...

Also not yet decided on tires. Need something with good wet performance given where I live. Loved the Vredestien Sessanta's I had on my C63 (ooh, how I miss THAT car).

I couldn't figure out why I could never get hot air to come out of the dash vents. It was hot from the defroster and foot wells. I thought to myself "That can't be right. Who would design a car that couldn't blow hot air on your hands? Something must be broken."

I found this in another thread with search (this forum is awesome!).



I guess the answer is BMW. What. The. Frak?

cek wrote:I couldn't figure out why I could never get hot air to come out of the dash vents. It was hot from the defroster and foot wells. I thought to myself "That can't be right. Who would design a car that couldn't blow hot air on your hands? Something must be broken."

I found this in another thread with search (this forum is awesome!).

I guess the answer is BMW. What. The. Frak?

Cool air on the face keeps the driver alert and no cup holders keeps both hands on the wheel.

Ultimate driving machine.

leadphut wrote:

cek wrote:I couldn't figure out why I could never get hot air to come out of the dash vents. It was hot from the defroster and foot wells. I thought to myself "That can't be right. Who would design a car that couldn't blow hot air on your hands? Something must be broken."

I found this in another thread with search (this forum is awesome!).

I guess the answer is BMW. What. The. Frak?

Cool air on the face keeps the driver alert and no cup holders keeps both hands on the wheel.

Ultimate driving machine.

Vlad has a cup holder. Neener.

A pile of goodies showed up today.



Instead of diving into the real work, I did some easy stuff. New door latch buffers (left rear door was squeaking while driving).



Found a keyfob door opener in a drawer and decided to hard-mount it. Usingthis threadto ask questions and show.



Installed the replacement headlight/foglight bracket too.

Time for the ignition baselining.



The Bosch spark plug wire set I got does not have the boot for the ignition coil wire. Sad face.



I looked around on various sites for sets that include this boot and don't see any. Should I just go with the Bosch and live without a boot. I like having a boot.

I clearly don't really need to replace these. But since I'm baselining (and already bought a new set) I think I will anyway.

And this is why baselining a new car is a good idea...

One of the lines to the charchol canister. Just snapped as I moved it out of the way.



Off to the auto parts store...

cek wrote:I clearly don't really need to replace these. But since I'm baselining (and already bought a new set) I think I will anyway.

Oops. This is a BMW, not an Audi:

While I had the plugs out I decided to do a compression test. The PPI showed 175, 150, 175, 175, 175, 175.

I put some fuel system cleaner through last tank (Redline) and want to know if it made a difference.

The test I just ran showed 158, 153, 153, 160, 158, 160.

However, the engine is basically cold at this point and I understand that doing a compression test on cool engine can give crazy numbers.

Should just ignore these numbers and do it again when the engine is hot?

After a drive in the 911 to the auto parts store and a break to watch the Sounders win their first MLS match of the year I got it done.

Purring like a kitten.

Thanks to @spen I now have a strut brace. It's a bit rusty in spots, but that's fine because I'm going to blast it and get it powder coated probably (black).

About to go take a drive to see how much a difference it makes...

Just about have the USB power adapter ready to go. Just need a little hot glue and some soldering. I used an exato knife and a small file to make the holes just right.

Thanks to @wkohler for getting me more blank plates!

Perfect!

As a bonus, the internal LED is red and causes the sockets to have a nice dim red glow that matches the BMW lighting.