What did you do to your other car(s) today?

[oldskool]

Finally changed out the burnt reverse light bulb on the e30 that decided to break into tiny shards mid-turn. I now have a gaping 1" cut on my thumb and my forefinger isn't pretty either. Anyone wanna kiss my boo-boo?

[MicahO]

As the ZHP approaches 200K miles, there were a number of preventive maintenance jobs to take care of. In addition, I've had a bit of a bonk-a-donk coming from the front end and as ambient temps climbed above 50-60F, that noise became a permanent fixture. In this thread on April 21 I noted that new sway bar bushings had suppressed the noise....um, no. That only lasted a day.

On subsequent weekends I did new brake rotors and bled the brake fluid (maintenance not related to the bonking) and swapped the OE front sway back onto the car - no change. Then I did new front control arm bushings and ZHP control arms - no change. Then last Monday I drove back and forth over the entrance to the driveway with my son feeling the top of the strut. "OH YEAH! There's a lot of vertical movement!" Okay - I ordered the parts plus new spring pads and other hardware.

Replacing the strut mounts - for some reason I had been dreading this job. In reality, it was a total piece of cake. The pinch bolts came out with a little Deep-Creep and the persuader. The PSS10's mean it's a very short strut/spring package so none of the ball joints had to be disturbed. And it's a LOT LIGHTER than the e28/e34 strut assembly, so it's an easy one-man job to lift into place. I swapped out the driver's side Friday evening while I was still in my Hawaiian shirt. The passenger side I did Saturday morning, plus an oil change, and had the car buttoned up by 9:00AM.

Next day edit - unfortunately it bonked on the way home last night. Same bonk. I'd swear it's a swaybar endlink bonk, except that I've swapped them twice now in the past 6 weeks, *and* the swaybar bushings, *and* the entire swaybar. I should probably drive it with the swaybar entirely removed. The problem is that the bonk only seems to happen when the car is hot - which points to a soft-tissue thing like a bushing or a mount, maybe a balljoint. 56F this morning and no noise at all. I'll have to wait for more permanent warm temps for better diagnostics.

In any event, the car feels freaking great with all the new parts up front.

[slammin_e28]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaNiK_QBxIU


Hehehehehehe!

[tig]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaNiK_QBxIU


Hehehehehehe!

Fu*k yea!!!

[1st 5er]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaNiK_QBxIU


Hehehehehehe!

Fu*k yea!!!

Dittos.

[jdgnzlz]

Installed my new all aluminum radiator from wizard cooling on my e28 m5 along with new oem water pump, oem t stat, All oem hoses and clamps, oem fan clutch, oem expansion tank, continental belts, and a cool red euro fan I got from sherman. Gonna change the fuel filter and oil tonight and I'll be ready for the trip to bimmerfest.

[davintosh]

I finally got around to replacing the front bumper wiring harness in the e32 and got my fog lights working again. Also got all four of the side marker lights working, put a new A/C belt on (finally found one that fits) and did some general cleanup on it. Why do I put up with all these niggling little problems on my cars until it's time to sell them?

[yodman]

1990 Jetta VR6 - Drove it to work, loving every minute of this car again. I've had it for four years now, it's been totally gone through, and I pound the hell out of it because that was the intention. I did get bored for a little, then I bought slower cars...

1987 325is - Stared at it with sadness in the backyard as the big tree craps all over it, awaiting my motivation and a helping hand to jack it up and change the clutch. Literally all that needs done. I'll make sure I know the skill level of people driving my cars from now on. Clutch was ridden for 5 miles without my knowledge, and is now toasty. 25% or greater throttle leads to massive slippage.

1987 535is - Decided it was time to tackle the suspension overhaul it so desperately needs. It's on jack stands with PB blaster coating everything so I can get it apart tonight.

1972 Super Beetle - Will be working on this later, installing an electric fuel pump for reliability's sake, as well as wiring in some new gauges for the dashboard, including a tachometer and oil pressure/temp gauge.

[Das_Prachtstrasse]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaNiK_QBxIU


Hehehehehehe!

Finally.

[funfunfer]

E12: Verified clutch slave cylinder rod movement of 23mm, so ......
Dropped transmission , then...
Removed bolts from bell housing, but....
Bell Housing not moving, oh crap, does this mean....
I have to remove the starter, too?

[1st 5er]

... the e32... it's time to sell...

How much?

[slammin_e28]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaNiK_QBxIU


Hehehehehehe!

Finally.

IKR?

Just need to make my shift linkage.

Then cooling system, make it less ghetto.

....and I need a new core support.

[yodman]

Drove my '72 Beetle for the first (and second) time on the road! Only went about 200 feet before I turned around in hopes it wouldn't die!

Needs a tune up, and will get one tonight along with a tachometer, voltmeter, oil pressure, and oil temp gauge.

[Karl Grau]

Wasted another hour trying to bleed the air out of the weird e39 heater part of the cooling system.
Also, replaced the hood shock on the e30 (it only has one). Since around 1852, I had always heard "things" about replacing the pressurized /shocklifter (or whatever you call them) but except for the manual Sport Seat versions, I never had any problem.

[wkohler]

Did an oil change and hit 260,000 miles on the piece of shit.

[a]

Drove the Rat to my brother's place.I picked up the Super E down pipes he had repaired for me. I filled up th front tires and put 25$ worth of gas into it.

[Adam W in MN]

Micah I LOL'd at the Hawaiin shirt link. That has to be frustrating as hell to try to find that bonking.

[Adam W in MN]

Washed the E46 325xiT for the first time since getting it 2 months ago. It's kind of nice having a BMW I don't obsess over.

[Mike W.]

I know, some people like having the high beams on automatically during the day, at reduced voltage like a POS Saturn. I don't. But the most recent addition to the fleet was programmed that way and while I got the software and cable, I haven't been able to make it work yet. Not unusual I hear. So I took a lower tech solution, and installed relays in the high beam circuit. I use the high beam signal to switch the relay, reduced voltage while plenty to be irritating on the high beams, is still low enough not to operate the relay. But full voltage is. So now I, not someone who has never driven the car, have full control over the headlights. A pair of relays from Amazon, a couple of pigtails from Pick and Pull, a few minutes work and Bam, fixed!

[Karl Grau]

I got the software and cable, I haven't been able to make it work yet.

Mike, which software are you using?

[Mike W.]

I got the software and cable, I haven't been able to make it work yet.

Mike, which software are you using?

It's a suite of things from a guy in England dba Cable Shack.

USB Cable driver
BMW tools
VM Player
DISV57
Progman/sss

I spent all of one night trying to load and get it working but got nowhere. I'll try more later, he's supposed to be very good on support.

Maybe I should try generic, I think it's out there. Reportedly it doesn't work well with too new and too fast a laptop, but it's possible mine is too old and slow.

[wkohler]

Maybe you should get the thing Charles has. It's a repurposed rice cooker controller, but it gets the Duke seal of approval since it can even reprogram your car's VIN.

[T_C_D]

Maybe you should get the thing Charles has. It's a repurposed rice cooker controller, but it gets the Duke seal of approval since it can even reprogram your car's VIN.

Bazinga. Kohler is still ROLLING!

[Adam W in MN]

Ouch.... Zinger.

Mike I had a biotch of a time getting my pa soft working and recognizing the cable. But it was so worth it to turn off the damn DRL's and reprogram the cooling temperature gauge.

[Mike W.]

Ouch.... Zinger.

Mike I had a biotch of a time getting my pa soft working and recognizing the cable. But it was so worth it to turn off the damn DRL's and reprogram the cooling temperature gauge.

I'll go at it again and again if needed, but I just wanted to shut the damn things off for now. I did strip the insulation on the ground to solder a wire to it, but I didn't cut a wire. Very reversible for when I do get the programing down.