MyE28.com DEV

caleb 87 535is wrote:The fuel line is depressurized and i have nothing to brake the seal of the copper crush washers on the fuel filter.So i have no way to replace the fuel filter at the moment. I need to get my car running before this tursday. Im going to try to rig a pump and pressure gauge up along the fuel line somewhere so that if this happens again I can pressurize it so it will start and the engine will do the rest.

This is the dumbest idea so far. I can't even...nevermind.

You are acting like a cat trapped in a cage, thrashing around trying to get free. You are just hurting yourself by continuing to panic. Start testing, not ghetto rigging. If the car doesn't run by Thursday, it doesn't run. Very unlikely it will be running in 2 days because of (1) your inexperience with this car, (2) lack of the proper tools, and (3) your location. Don't completely fuck the thing up because you aren't capable of a proper diagnosis.

I ran to the internet my brother and a friend. And I have been digging around on trouble shooting the CIS Bosch mechanical fuel injection system. I have to much gas going into cylinder 2, The fuel injectors are uneven, and the O2 sensor is acting up which is a sign that something else has gone wrong else where.
http://audi.humanspeakers.com/tuning-cise.htm#i
Im going to start with the fuel injectors and seals. Then I am going to move onto the temperature sender and then on too looking for any vacuum leaks.
* I need this car running so I don't miss drill this weekend and get counted as awal. Thats the last thing I need.

caleb 87 535is wrote:I ran to the internet my brother and a friend. And I have been digging around on trouble shooting the CIS Bosch mechanical fuel injection system. I have to much gas going into cylinder 2, The fuel injectors are uneven, and the O2 sensor is acting up which is a sign that something else has gone wrong else where.
http://audi.humanspeakers.com/tuning-cise.htm#i
Im going to start with the fuel injectors and seals. Then I am going to move onto the temperature sender and then on too looking for any vacuum leaks.
* I need this car running so I don't miss drill this weekend and get counted as awal. Thats the last thing I need.

take a bus or a cab.

think about it this way.

you spend the money on the bus or a cab or pay a friend to get to drill and you're not counted awal.

next thing, you spend money ghetto rigging your car and you break it, thats just MORE money you're throwing at it.

ok, and your pretty ass backwards with your future diagnosis plans

1. vaccum leaks
2. temp sender
3. fuel injectors and seals

more air = more fuel
should not be the other way around
what I'm trying to say is, your engine is going to compensate for the "extra air" via the vaccum leaks by adding more fuel to keep the mixture around 14.7:1. the first number is air, which is equal to atmospheric pressure that is pretty much constant in our atmosphere. the 2nd number is FUEL. so if the amount of air goes up--the fuel goes up. get it?

I was humdicking around with a car and then some guy came by and pinpointed my issues in about 30 minutes. Then it was very easy for me to finish the job, I just had to be shown the correct way.

listen to these dudes on the forum, it's the best thing you've got going for you with that car at the moment.

You are completely off base with your O2 sensor conclusion. The O2 light has nothing to do with the sensor's functionality. Ignore it, it's the last thing to bother with.

If plug #2 is wet, it's getting fuel. Check. The plug is probably fouled. It will still start on 3 cylinders. Move on. Stop dicking around with the fuel filter before you cause a leak. Check for spark at each plug wire. If all 4 have spark, swap in a cheap set of plugs if it makes you feel better.

See what results from this and report back.

You assume the k-jet is an intelligent piece of technology. It isn't. Vacuum leaks will stop your car running more than pretty much any other cause.

Check every rubber hose under the bonnet you can find with soapy water, or smoke test if you can. THEN check all the grounds. A faulty coil ground was the major contributor to a repetitive no-start issue I had with my E21.

You said that it wasn't getting fuel, then that it was getting too much... which is it? It can't be both.

Also... search... that e21 forum does seriously knows their shit. Take some time away from your car to properly diagnose it. What's your id over there, I didn't see a thread pop up recently.

If you're in such a rush, calm, get a ride, bus, taxi, w/e gets you where you need to go. Hell, you could ride a bicycle if you were really in a jamb.

As has been mentioned fuel and vacuum pressures are critical. Suction hoses can get porus and let the fuel pump cavitate. Even loose hose clamps. And the fuel pump relay is odd and somewhat failure prone. Replace, don't just check, the suction hose to the fuel pump and use good clamps. Check the in tank pump and it's connections. The fuel pump relay is odd, it works during cranking, maybe a short prime, I can't remember, and while the car is running. An example of it's oddness is if you stall or it should die coasting, it won't restart because the fuel pump won't restart until the ignition cycles.

Also the ignition control modules are somewhat failure prone, they're always missing on yard cars and I had one fail.

There are no busses or taxis here in laramie that go to casper. I have been doing research allot of it. I have been on th computer more than on the car. There are no busses in this town actually. Only shuttles and there for the college. Theres safe ride which is for drunks. I'll do a test for leaks.
Bimmerforums.com GotWand

New spark plugs no vacuum leaks. I haven't checked the grounds yet. I have no way of checking the in tank fuel pump i have nothing to drain the fuel into. I need help on this one big time. No one is answering the post on bimmerforums.

caleb 87 535is wrote:New spark plugs no vacuum leaks. I haven't checked the grounds yet. I have no way of checking the in tank fuel pump i have nothing to drain the fuel into. I need help on this one big time. No one is answering the post on bimmerforums.

It needs to be there and intact, not working. You can pull it and inspect it as long as the tank isn't over 3/4 full or so. But you need the suction system to be tight. And or temporarily jumper out the fuel pump. But it still won't be happy if there is a leak.

Mike W. wrote:

caleb 87 535is wrote:New spark plugs no vacuum leaks. I haven't checked the grounds yet. I have no way of checking the in tank fuel pump i have nothing to drain the fuel into. I need help on this one big time. No one is answering the post on bimmerforums.

It needs to be there and intact, not working. You can pull it and inspect it as long as the tank isn't over 3/4 full or so. But you need the suction system to be tight. And or temporarily jumper out the fuel pump. But it still won't be happy if there is a leak.

The tank is full. The only lose end I know of is the hose to the charcoal canister that is not there.

Hire a prostitute with a car, or rent a friend with a car. You have no idea what you are doing and you are running around in circles. You are going to be counted as AWOL while dicking around with this thing. Put a pin in it and get to drill tomorrow by any means necessary. You've waited too long to start walking, so you'd better figure something else out since you blew $1800 on this thing instead of fixing the E28, which could have been rebuilt and running for less money and time invested.

I still can't figure out how buying an $1800 E21 that needs $1800 of work is somehow better than dropping a grand or so into the e28.

Ima bet its the POS on the left shock tower (ICU).

wkohler wrote:Ima bet its the POS on the left shock tower (ICU).

That was my thought. Checking the spark plugs by simply looking at them isn't checking for spark and that thing is a notorious source of problems.

To be honest I don't remember how i got started on the fuel problem. When the car died it was idling and when i sat down and shut the door, the RPM shot up to 8 grand and died. I Have been talking with my brother trying to Figure out what happened. A grand would not of got my e28 running safely. It would've gotten it running but it would not of fixed the cv axles, exhaust, Transmission, the entire front suspension, my bald tires, the camshaft and eccentrics, and a few other things that escape my mind. I got a friend of mine thats in wyotech coming over tomorrow to help me properly diagnose the problem. We will have all the tools to do it and hopefully we will have it running at the end of the day. If we do there will be a video.

Hopefully he knows what he is doing. They don't teach you how to work on K-Jet at Wyotech.

Kyle in NO wrote:Hopefully he knows what he is doing. They don't teach you how to work on K-Jet at Wyotech.

We have an online manual that were following reference and were just testing connections and the pcm and such. If we find a problem there then we will contact my brother to see what steps we need to take next to correct the problem.

Before the question gets asked, the OBD II port is in the fusebox.

wkohler wrote:Before the question gets asked, the OBD II port is in the fusebox.

haha thanks for the heads up

caleb 87 535is wrote:

wkohler wrote:Before the question gets asked, the OBD II port is in the fusebox.

haha thanks for the heads up

Chris was yanking your chain, it's 15 years before OBDII. Then again, you haven't paid much attention to anything else anyone has said, so I suppose it wouldn't have been a problem.

Mike W. wrote:

caleb 87 535is wrote:

wkohler wrote:Before the question gets asked, the OBD II port is in the fusebox.

haha thanks for the heads up

Chris was yanking your chain, it's 15 years before OBDII. Then again, you haven't paid much attention to anything else anyone has said, so I suppose it wouldn't have been a problem.

Sarcasm is what i was getting at I know about OBDll Its pretty easy to diagnose. I would've had the car running if it was OBDll. Im used to it from my supra and the various hondurs I have owned. I would've already had the car running Since I have the diagnostic software for OBDll. If it was OBDll it wouldn't be running Bosch CIS I know.

How did you get to the base?

What the hell is happening here?

Why are you asking us this stuff?

Why is this thread 7 friggin pages long?

WHy are you risking not making it to drill because of this damned car?

Why didn't you fix the e28?

Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes

Best advice here so far:

WilNJ wrote:

caleb 87 535is wrote:Alright well that solves the problem. I didn't think it had a turbo. What would be the best upgrade for the airbox on the e21??

Can if offer a piece of unsolicited advice?

I'm assuming you're young, no mortgage or kids. If I'm wrong I apologize.

You bought a car that's likely a bit of POS. Not that there's anything wrong with that. I wish I had done it when I had the chance but I always thought I should get the responsible, reliable transportation to get to and from work. Well after 20+ years of driving appliances, I can tell you, confidently, it blows.

Don't try to upgrade or mod you car to get respect at the local GTG.

Focus on making sure the car goes properly, stops properly and turns properly. Forget about how it looks for now or who you can beat in a drag race with a 40 year old, NA 4 cyl.

Before too long, you may be surprised to find out that you have a pretty cool car, you may even get a nod from an old dude (like 40 or something) that wants to talk about his E21.

And if someday you're ready to move on to something different, you'll be able to sell your sorted out Bimmer for at least the money you paid for it. The cost of repairs and maintenance being your only transportation costs outside of fuel and insurance.

This thread is fucking crap. All of it. Sell the e21, count your losses, put the money from sales into the e28 and get it running, or sell both cars and buy a damned Honda.

I am convinced that (after owning an e21 myself) the next e21 I would own would have at minimum a M20B25 "i" engine swap, and the suspension and brakes refurbed STAT.

Just my take.

I'm in for $100.00

shagrath wrote:What the hell is happening here?

Why are you asking us this stuff?

Why is this thread 7 friggin pages long?

WHy are you risking not making it to drill because of this damned car?

Why didn't you fix the e28?

Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes Plot holes

Best advice here so far:

WilNJ wrote:

caleb 87 535is wrote:Alright well that solves the problem. I didn't think it had a turbo. What would be the best upgrade for the airbox on the e21??

Can if offer a piece of unsolicited advice?

I'm assuming you're young, no mortgage or kids. If I'm wrong I apologize.

You bought a car that's likely a bit of POS. Not that there's anything wrong with that. I wish I had done it when I had the chance but I always thought I should get the responsible, reliable transportation to get to and from work. Well after 20+ years of driving appliances, I can tell you, confidently, it blows.

Don't try to upgrade or mod you car to get respect at the local GTG.

Focus on making sure the car goes properly, stops properly and turns properly. Forget about how it looks for now or who you can beat in a drag race with a 40 year old, NA 4 cyl.

Before too long, you may be surprised to find out that you have a pretty cool car, you may even get a nod from an old dude (like 40 or something) that wants to talk about his E21.

And if someday you're ready to move on to something different, you'll be able to sell your sorted out Bimmer for at least the money you paid for it. The cost of repairs and maintenance being your only transportation costs outside of fuel and insurance.

This thread is fucking crap. All of it. Sell the e21, count your losses, put the money from sales into the e28 and get it running, or sell both cars and buy a damned Honda.

I am convinced that (after owning an e21 myself) the next e21 I would own would have at minimum a M20B25 "i" engine swap, and the suspension and brakes refurbed STAT.

Just my take.

Be nice to the kid.

If you don't know how to get his car running, then just leave him alone.

I didn't see any mention of the co valve either. That could cause a lot of issues.

He's being a bit ridiculous. He needs to shut up and learn a little to what the members here are saying. Shit just irritates me.

shagrath wrote:I didn't see any mention of the co valve either. That could cause a lot of issues.

He's being a bit ridiculous. He needs to shut up and learn a little to what the members here are saying. Shit just irritates me.

I agree.

You tell him one thing to do, and then he's on some other crazy rant about why he thinks it's not running.

It's really annoying, I do agree.

He might be BMWGiant's younger brother...BMWStubborn.

Just read the whole thread

shagrath wrote:I didn't see any mention of the co valve either. That could cause a lot of issues.

He's being a bit ridiculous. He needs to shut up and learn a little to what the members here are saying. Shit just irritates me.

CO valve? I don't even know what that is and I know the cars pretty well, we put about 90K on 3 of them. I will agree the OP hasn't followed much of what's been offered.