FUBAR 528e, Gauging Condition of the M90

[LeiseyJr]

How is a fixed back racing bucket considered safe without a proper roll bar or cage but a 4 point ASM harness not? That seat isn't going to give in a crash like a stock seat would as it is designed to not fail and keep you out of the roll cage in an accident leaving you just as vulnerable without the cage (car rolls, roof buckles, you don't move because the seat wont give and the stock 3 point has locked, snap goes the neck).

I have seen a Sparco seat hold up the roof in a 911 rollover, so yeah I'm vulnerable. I see your point. Hopefully I'll be over to lean forward if the situation unfortunately happens to me. I should be able to submarine out of my seat too in a rollover or in a crash. Usually you lean forward in a crash as well, so that might give me some headroom, I also am quite short and have quite more then a fist between my roof and helmet. The saftest is stock seat with 3pt or full rollbar with seat, harnesses and hans. Idk I might die, I guess.

[LeiseyJr]

Neat by samleisey, on Flickr

Neat by samleisey, on Flickr

Getting the motor out was quite easy, just pulled straight out no issues.
Documented failure is attached elsewhere on the forum.


Getting it in was quite the hassle, two things made it a utter bitch. The A/C line and the headers, since they are welded to the Y-pipe almost all the way to the transmission cross-member. I was kind've in rush. I wanted it running that day of course that didn't happen. My dad wanted to go to the gym during that time and my friend who was supposed to help went to the junkyard, so I decided to put it in solo. I got creative with bungee cords and rust holes to hold everything out of the way.

Oof by samleisey, on Flickr
Oof by samleisey, on Flickr

So I had the A/C line just completely in the way, brake booster hitting on the other side and I had to be able to slide the headers on with the used 1985 gaskets from Chumbucket motor. They wanted to keep falling off, so when I went to grab the nut gasket would fall off. Also couldn't really put my hand where I wanted to due to the A/C line. I got it eventually, it would've been impossible with the individual exhaust manifold gaskets I had on my motor. This is why I used the 1985 gaskets. Once I got two nuts on for the left and right gasket, I was in the money. Luckily Dad arrived home at this point and we squeezed the engine past the booster, I was able to lie under the car and loosen the engine mounts and guide it all together while he pried on stuff and lowered cherry picker.

Oof by samleisey, on Flickr

The stupid A/C line

Oof by samleisey, on Flickr
Oof by samleisey, on Flickr
lolgetrekt by samleisey, on Flickr

(See that stray green wire above, remember that now)
Engine all on the mounts, ready to be slammed back together. In my twisted head I imagined it all being assembled by that evening running and driving. After rushing to get trans in with shifter. Dad said it wouldn't run, so of course I said it would fire up once I put the fuel lines on, and fusebox connector/coil wires. Got that all together and guess what it didn't do. What happened was the connector, in the glove box the one that sends signal to the tach, C103 I believe. The green wire on it snapped right off at the connector. This wire somehow activates the main relay, and must've been why my car had cut out intermittently coming back from Austin. When wires touched together, ICV would buzz so that was the issue. At this point the power went out for two hours, and all I could do was tighten header nuts(couldn't raise lift, couldn't solder, couldn't charge my battery). So that's what I did until power came back on. We cut connector off Super Eta harness, and re soldered that one onto 1.0 harness. The car started right up,and proceeded to backfire quite loud with open headers in a residential area. The 5th and 6th plug wires were backwards, once swapped it idled perfectly. At this point I lowered my expectations and accomplished a goal so I felt complete, not running and driving but running nonetheless.

Then I came back the week after on Friday. I quietly buttoned everything up, it was quite peaceful and zen-like. I quite enjoyed it, everything fell into place it was at the point to put coolant in it. I then started it and it just idled and didn't overheat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-_Vrr6KiqI As usual the M30 cooling system didn't require that much bleeding if at all. The motor that carried me around when I was 2 will give me some miles and some more good memories. I did a loop around the neighborhood, everything seemed that same. This motor has some more grunt down low, that's for sure. I waited for traffic to die down, but I knew it was gonna rain the next morning. So at about 7ish, I went off on the long test drive and it did 150 miles no issues. I miss the cam, it dies at 5500rpm and just keeps tapering off after that. I don't know how you can rev a stock m30b34 to 6600rpm and not feel like a dick.

Alive by samleisey, on Flickr

Alive by samleisey, on Flickr

Alive by samleisey, on Flickr

It has 250 miles on it now. Finger crossed it will be able to commute reliably. It has a 900-1000rpm idle which I prefer. It hasn't overheated but I don't trust any of my fan clutches. So Andy, South26, should be sending one soon that's known good and I'll compare them all.

[Tiit]

I don't know how you can rev a stock m30b34 to 6600rpm and not feel like a dick. .

Can’t be done. It’s one of the reasons why I don’t like to drive my E28. Dogleg + stock b34 is lame combo.

[LeiseyJr]

I don't know how you can rev a stock m30b34 to 6600rpm and not feel like a dick. .

Can’t be done. It’s one of the reasons why I don’t like to drive my E28. Dogleg + stock b34 is lame combo.

Add a Shrick 284. My fathers 10:1 pulls all the way to redline, but he has b35 valves.

[adam_poll]

The motor that carried me around when I was 2 will give me some miles and some more good memories.

I like this line, I dropped the M30B34 from my Dad's E28 that he ordered when I was born into my 525i and there is something special about that.

Nice to see it back together.

Adam

[LeiseyJr]

I have had a very annoying throttle steer issue on the highway, for at least a year. It's been very progressive and since I am the only one that drives my car it just became a feature of driving the car. My dad hates driving it due to my super small seat.
Vid of Issue:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVJYor2Y6lE

As of lately it has gotten much worse, to the point where on the highway staying in my lane was uhhh challenging to say the least. I assumed it was sub frame bushings, because I did the trailing arm bushings. However inspecting the 5 year old Powerflex subframe bushings revealed no play and visual inspection checked out. They looked brand new. Something was up though, so I pried the trailing arm bushings. I was quite upset after the discovery of this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMXr5ySVqc8

Also found out my subframe was cracked *sigh*
Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr

I have been wanting to upgrade to the 750 bushings, however with $300 in my name 2 weeks before my internship starts it wasn't ideal financially. It was a safety issue at this point though, so I ordered the bushings and was hoping I could do it in the car with dads tool. After dropping trailing arm enough to get tool was pleasantly surprised with this view.

Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr


This is how both outer bushing looked, the left side only had play with pry bar. However both sides were FUBAR. So very glad I did it. It always amazes how many tools slowly appear out of the toolbox.
Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr

I was successful at getting outer bushing to move and almost out in the car, but looking at inboard side I realized I was fucked and would have to undo brake lines and handbrake.
Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr
Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr

So out everything came. I was quite pissed off at this point, but it was less painful then I thought putting it back together later.
Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr

Fire was generously applied to remove the bushings, because its easier then pressing them out. This picture is not OHSA approved.
Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr


As of that point I did not have new bushings, so it was time to do some really shitty welds.
Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr
Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr
Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr

They're a start... and then I threw sub frame back in
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6UCkaEEKCs


The following day the bushings came in so they got pressed in
Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr
Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr
Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr

After that it was all a blur installing it
Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr
Shitshow by samleisey, on Flickr

I took it around neighborhood and was disappointed at first. It wasn't that different, and was expecting way more NVH with solid bushings. Once traffic died down I discovered that on the highway its a new car, it just cruises without constant steering input. It felt right. Amazing how gradual decay and human adaptation can ignore issues such as this. On my favorite back road, the car felt insanely good. It actually applied power coming out of corners, and was so much easier to drive. I actually got quite emotional due to how good it felt.

On the issue of why my trailing arm bushings failed, I suspect improper preloading. However the inside ones weren't falling apart like outside. I am glad I drove the car with failed bushings in a way made me really learn the car and have to drive through its issues.

This job was well worth the 3 days of work, hopefully it last much longer then the last set.

[LeiseyJr]

Car did great on track, no more man handling actually could drive smoothly. Motor decided to inhale oil out of VC though so, I pulled her in. $160 for 2 laps, but my suspension is feeling good so its good to know that.

Been dailying it to my internship, thats about it really. All thats next is new motor and maybe another drag link this time with heatshield though.

[LeiseyJr]

This 061 has just changed the engine, it feels alive and how it used to. I really do enjoy driving it again.

Two nagging issues currently, it might be burning coolant. I see no smoke in exhaust nor do I see a expanding coolant hoses. I am not seeing a leak, maybe I need to look harder. It could be the shit URO coolant level sensor just being annoying. I also don't think its the cap. I've emptied the overflow bottle, and filled it way more then it should last night. Some should burp into the reservoir, but if light comes on a week. This might necessitate the need to get the other engine swapped in faster if I conclude the head gasket on this engine is bad.

We'll see what happens though.

[athayer187]

This 061 has just changed the engine, it feels alive and how it used to. I really do enjoy driving it again.

Two nagging issues currently, it might be burning coolant. I see no smoke in exhaust nor do I see a expanding coolant hoses. I am not seeing a leak, maybe I need to look harder. It could be the shit URO coolant level sensor just being annoying. I also don't think its the cap. I've emptied the overflow bottle, and filled it way more then it should last night. Some should burp into the reservoir, but if light comes on a week. This might necessitate the need to get the other engine swapped in faster if I conclude the head gasket on this engine is bad.

We'll see what happens though.

I've seen cheap coolant level sensors not thread into the overflow correctly and be both the cause of the leak as well as the cause of a flaky measurement.

[LeiseyJr]

This 061 has just changed the engine, it feels alive and how it used to. I really do enjoy driving it again.

Two nagging issues currently, it might be burning coolant. I see no smoke in exhaust nor do I see a expanding coolant hoses. I am not seeing a leak, maybe I need to look harder. It could be the shit URO coolant level sensor just being annoying. I also don't think its the cap. I've emptied the overflow bottle, and filled it way more then it should last night. Some should burp into the reservoir, but if light comes on a week. This might necessitate the need to get the other engine swapped in faster if I conclude the head gasket on this engine is bad.

We'll see what happens though.

I've seen cheap coolant level sensors not thread into the overflow correctly and be both the cause of the leak as well as the cause of a flaky measurement.

Interesting, yeah this one has never thread in right. Not seeing any leaks around it, but never been pleased with the way its tightened. I have a "delete plug" for the sensor, probably pop it in there for now because that one does tighten until I get a actual brand sensor.

[athayer187]

This 061 has just changed the engine, it feels alive and how it used to. I really do enjoy driving it again.

Two nagging issues currently, it might be burning coolant. I see no smoke in exhaust nor do I see a expanding coolant hoses. I am not seeing a leak, maybe I need to look harder. It could be the shit URO coolant level sensor just being annoying. I also don't think its the cap. I've emptied the overflow bottle, and filled it way more then it should last night. Some should burp into the reservoir, but if light comes on a week. This might necessitate the need to get the other engine swapped in faster if I conclude the head gasket on this engine is bad.

We'll see what happens though.

I've seen cheap coolant level sensors not thread into the overflow correctly and be both the cause of the leak as well as the cause of a flaky measurement.

Interesting, yeah this one has never thread in right. Not seeing any leaks around it, but never been pleased with the way its tightened. I have a "delete plug" for the sensor, probably pop it in there for now because that one does tighten until I get a actual brand sensor.

My symptom was after a longer session on track, the threads would slip enough to let the expansion tank "burp" and leak once but cause higher than normal temperatures. Once I replaced with a tested good BMW sender, I never had the problem again.

Are you running coolant, or just water? It's a lot harder to find with just water.

[LeiseyJr]

This 061 has just changed the engine, it feels alive and how it used to. I really do enjoy driving it again.

Two nagging issues currently, it might be burning coolant. I see no smoke in exhaust nor do I see a expanding coolant hoses. I am not seeing a leak, maybe I need to look harder. It could be the shit URO coolant level sensor just being annoying. I also don't think its the cap. I've emptied the overflow bottle, and filled it way more then it should last night. Some should burp into the reservoir, but if light comes on a week. This might necessitate the need to get the other engine swapped in faster if I conclude the head gasket on this engine is bad.

We'll see what happens though.

I've seen cheap coolant level sensors not thread into the overflow correctly and be both the cause of the leak as well as the cause of a flaky measurement.

Interesting, yeah this one has never thread in right. Not seeing any leaks around it, but never been pleased with the way its tightened. I have a "delete plug" for the sensor, probably pop it in there for now because that one does tighten until I get a actual brand sensor.

My symptom was after a longer session on track, the threads would slip enough to let the expansion tank "burp" and leak once but cause higher than normal temperatures. Once I replaced with a tested good BMW sender, I never had the problem again.

Are you running coolant, or just water? It's a lot harder to find with just water.

Right now its just water pretty much, I'll get a BMW sender and green coolant go from there.

[Hit Man X]

Green coolant? Gross.

Beats no coolant I suppose.

[LeiseyJr]

Green coolant? Gross.

Beats no coolant I suppose.

I put in BMW coolant and water wetter. Overfilled the living shit out of it, bad idea Gatorade catch can bottle is almost overfilled. However. This morning on the drive in, light came on. I got to the parking lot, checked it. There was still a decent amount of coolant in there. So it's the sensor or the flaky wiring giving me a hard time.

I also weighed it 3100lb with 3/4 of a tank.

7/1 Update by samleisey, on Flickr

I did a valve adj, as well. It is not a pretty motor :/, cam has very slight ridges. I knew it had a hard life before me, and I am reminded of that. However its running good, and still a pretty quiet engine.

7/1 Update by samleisey, on Flickr

7/1 Update by samleisey, on Flickr

I am looking at getting some euro bumpers from Sherman here pretty soon, my bad rocker arm purchase is a bit of a delay. But what're you gonna do

7/1 Update by samleisey, on Flickr

[LeiseyJr]

Got another 061
Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr

Started hanging out with Porsche fags on Wednesdays
Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr

Dad and I comparing his Miller Tune to 061 BIN
Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr

I will be getting EPROM programmer to burn chips. I should be able to copy Dad's Miller tune onto a chip the values look very similar to the 061 tune. A little conservative, but in 100 degree heat as his daily that is ideal. Hopefully the Fritz Bitz chip works out, and I don't need to. I am preparing for it though.

Also had a big fiasco getting inspected. I was expecting mono wiper to fail, so I was put duals back on to make Tejas happy. So I went to first station and he said I can inspect you but you won't pass. He said, "exhaust and headlights". I replied, "I have a muffler." He said okay and looked around it and was pleasantly surprised brake lights all worked. He said inspection machine was broken come back Friday with non-cracked headlights.

I wanted it inspecting that day though. So I went to a station where supposedly they just passed my friends 300zx. They did not do that with mine, headlights was their complaint. Which is understandable because my tape is a giant red flag. Saying, "hey my car is shit. Look at my sketchy cracked headlights"
A lot of people ask me why they're taped. It's not for the look they were genuinely fucked, and I didn't want glass going all over the road. High beam are both cracked and drivers side now has a hole in it. Low beam is also cracked but no holes yet.

I've been looking for another set at a decent price, but this expedited that. I had to borrow Dad's headlights to pass. Inspector was so confused when I came back an hour later with non fucked headlights. Dad started looking and found a really nice set on ebay for $400, that he wants to throw on since he painted his car. So I'll be buying these that I borrowed for $200, when his ones from Ebay get here.

Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr

Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr

Dual wipers are staying on for roadtrip to Austin so my girlfriend doesn't have to stare at it for 3 hours. After that back to mono wiper. I also changed the coolant cap, realized original one was in the trunk. Throwing it on just to see if it changes filling up with coolant. The one I had on looks super cheap. However my father and I of course can't remember why we have two coolant caps sticking around. Presumably we removed them because they were bad, but then why hold on to it? We'll see how it goes I guess.

[tschultz]

Have any suggestions for best chip combo for stock B34?? Will you be burning any??

If you use a chip are you stuck with 91+ octane?

[LeiseyJr]

Have any suggestions for best chip combo for stock B34?? Will you be burning any??

If you use a chip are you stuck with 91+ octane?

I will be burning some probably, so far the one that feels the most fun is the 061. Which should be able to be burned to a 059. However I have no dyno to proves its better over Conforti or MarkD, so I need to get it on a dyno and see. Turner is very punch way better for a daily. I was mostly thinking burning 10:1 tunes since the 8:1 market has quite good options and isn't empty.

With 8:1, I have run 89 with chips never had an issue. However I try to stick to 93, but you can get away with 89. If you have higher compression you will have to run 91 or 93.

[LeiseyJr]

I went to Austin car did fine for most part. Coolant level light freaked me out on return trip. I replaced the sensor and now have no issues. Fuck URO.

So once that was fixed I was happy, however I had a 60 mile round trip to work the next day for a install of a box. It drove minty on the way up, mileage went up as well. Then it hit me with a curveball on the way home misfired on start up and cutting out at 3.5k-4k, it cleared up. I cruised home at 80 in fear, after it cleared up. Changed ECU and coil, and its running better. However under high load still misfiring sometimes, could be incorrectly gaped plugs I guess. I verified gaps on install and they came pregapped. It didn't misfire on the entire trip to Austin so thats unlikely.

I did the basic vacuum leaks checks and so forth. Due to it being load based I am suspecting fuel based. I don't really know. This is quite annoying and really bugging me. It could be fuel pump is starting to die maybe or clogged filter. Also thinking bad gas, from a sketchy chevron I filled up at maybe. Idk. I am going to wait and see if it clears up if its due to bad gas or something, I have my doubts.

[LeiseyJr]

I went to Austin car did fine for most part. Coolant level light freaked me out on return trip. I replaced the sensor and now have no issues. Fuck URO.

Austin Trip by samleisey, on Flickr

Austin Trip by samleisey, on Flickr

Austin Trip by samleisey, on Flickr

The drive up was great. However return trip was pretty miserable with trans flying around in the trunk spilling gear oil, fire extinguisher mount failing and coolant level light blaring at me making me worry. Got a free radiator though, saw grandparents and girlfriend and I went on another trip so that was a positive.

So once that was fixed I was happy, however I had a 60 mile round trip to work the next day for a install of a box. It drove minty on the way up, mileage went up as well. Then it hit me with a curveball on the way home misfired on start up and cutting out at 3.5k-4k, it cleared up. I cruised home at 80 in fear, after it cleared up. Changed ECU and coil, and its running better. However under high load still misfiring sometimes, could be incorrectly gaped plugs I guess. I verified gaps on install and they came pregapped. It didn't misfire on the entire trip to Austin so thats unlikely.

I did the basic vacuum leaks checks and so forth. Due to it being load based I am suspecting fuel based. I don't really know. This is quite annoying and really bugging me. It could be fuel pump is starting to die maybe or clogged filter. Also thinking bad gas, from a sketchy chevron I filled up at maybe. Idk. I am going to wait and see if it clears up if its due to bad gas or something, I have my doubts.



*** Just realized that gear oil did indeed spill all over my trunk which would drain to the fuel pump connectors. Wondering if they got covered in gear oil.

*****lift pump is working whether or not it seeped into gas tank is unknown, a lot of residue around that area.

[LeiseyJr]

It was one of two things that fixed, it. I had a vaccum leak and plugs gaped to wide. I gapped it to what it said here on the forum vs. what I usually do which is .027, I gaped them to .032 which is too big. So I threw some used Bosch's in to test. I also had a small vacuum leak, had no hose clamp on the brake booster hose. Interestingly enough my pedal feels firm now instead of spongy so pretty sure that was leaking. Probably the best any m30 has been running in my car. Probably going to put the 061 back in, smoother idle and the 6600 rpm redline is spooky on stock m30. Monowiper is also reinstalled.

Fixed by samleisey, on Flickr

Fixed by samleisey, on Flickr

[LeiseyJr]

Acquired some genuine # matching 528e driver floor/rocker repair from Sherman. Should be getting started on that when Dad's car is done from paint.
Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr
Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr


Also got a new Aux fan in, so now I have reliable cold A/C !! For my girlfriend and guest
Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr

Ziptie is for speed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Bonsaibacker]

There is a lot to be said for pushing the car down the freeway at 80 to find the problem. Trusting the car not to eat it and trusting your skills to cobble it home if necessary- balls!

[LeiseyJr]

There is a lot to be said for pushing the car down the freeway at 80 to find the problem. Trusting the car not to eat it and trusting your skills to cobble it home if necessary- balls!

Always got Triple AAA, and might as well get as far as you can home.

[LeiseyJr]

A/C is pretty fucking cold. Very happy with how well its cooling in Houston Traffic now, airduster and a good aux fan made a huge difference. I was genuinely flabbergasted yesterday, sitting there the compressor was cycling. Never seen that before. Usually its on 24/7 trying to cool the car down with no rest.

Feel kind've stupid for running around with the B10 chip in a stock 8:1, but its running really smooth and crisp throttle response torquing around town. Just regular Hack mechanic things.

Also about to pull the trigger on a spare dogleg. It will be my biggest purchase ever, but it's a good deal for what it is. So I will feel more comfortable pushing the car and driving it. I did rebuild that tranny and it's been going almost a 1.5 years. It's been tracked and drifted. However still just worried as they are a more fragile then the OD's. Since it is a daily will need something I can swap in pretty quick.

Not sure why everyone is so scared to replace bearing in them much easier to take apart then the G265 OD.

[LeiseyJr]

I had a hunch that the 1:1 on both the dogleg and G262 4 speed must be the same gears, and maybe even input shaft. RealOEM only has those numbers in sense of gear repair kits. Not individually so I could only verify by getting the parts in my hand.

The dogleg and 4 speed use same front bearings, same bearing in the input shaft as well as same front case as a G262. They're also both 1:1 in same place, so you would think the engineers would reuse the gear. There was someone selling a torn apart G262 on ebay, messaged him and scored 4 syncros, input shaft, and layshaft for $180 from a "30K mile transmission". It was a gamble, but if it worked I had a chance at repairing this other dogleg. I have located a buddy with a 50 ton press, to press the gears off the layshaft.

Untitled by samleisey, on FlickrUntitled by samleisey, on Flickr

So in theory I can fix the 1982 dogleg. It's obviously not a easy feat, but possible now. With how low I paid for this transmission I should still be in green after I replace whatever bearings I need to. This will be quite a project though. It's been apart and moved around so much, hopefully still got all the pieces it needs. Fuck it though, its already trashed can't make it worse might as well try to fix it.


Press fit by samleisey, on Flickr

So this with floor repair are the next big projects in the saga

[LeiseyJr]

Found original ad. Just hit me I've owned this car for 5 1/2 years, so that means it has occupied 25%ish of my life. Wild.

[LeiseyJr]

Another Engine Pull debacle, there will be general pics of the fun after this tech tip.

On headers where it's really tight and you have a nut that takes a 1/6th of a turn with a wrench that you already broke loose. Use one of these bad boys:

Updates by samleisey, on Flickr


Gives you just enough leverage to take it off and lets you actually turn it more than a nano-meter at a time.



Updates by samleisey, on Flickr

Harness all Disconnected

Updates by samleisey, on Flickr

R.I.P another A/C belt

Updates by samleisey, on Flickr

Power Steering Pump dangling by the lines

Updates by samleisey, on Flickr

Header clearance is a yikes....

Decided to use the block drain this time, what a experience that was.


First thing is, coolant really comes out of this one. It is quite fast.
I developed a ingenious drainage system, the Egyptians would've been envious of my irrigation skills.

Updates by samleisey, on Flickr

Until well gravity kicked in and top pan fell.

Updates by samleisey, on Flickr

Updates by samleisey, on Flickr

Updates by samleisey, on Flickr

Updates by samleisey, on Flickr

[LeiseyJr]

Swap by samleisey, on Flickr

Yoinked the bad girl out


Due to space constraints engine pulls are a 2 step job. So pull engine roll car back, then set it on lift. So we can squeeze cherry picker back around, to work on it elsewhere.
Swap by samleisey, on Flickr

Pic of it after it's out.

Swap by samleisey, on Flickr

Then it was stripped clean for the other motor.

Swap by samleisey, on Flickr

All the goodies moved over

Swap by samleisey, on Flickr

This right here, is why engine installs are such a bitch. Exhaust shop made it work, for servicing it is less than ideal. So first you lower engine in, low, like below studs to get header on. Then you push engine left, hold gaskets up and force header on. This is a 2 man job, I think last time I did it by myself. It was a true nightmare. Next part is jacking it back up, and getting it on passenger mount (mounts are mounted in subframe). Then you loosen left engine mount aim, it towards the slot and have someone lower engine. You should end up with something like this:

Swap by samleisey, on Flickr
Swap by samleisey, on Flickr

[LeiseyJr]

Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr

[LeiseyJr]

So two big things happened today got a extra dogleg and motor started.

I saw this car listed on FB marketplace some clown had listed it, saying he'd pull parts. He didn't reply to my messages but odly enough he replied to my girlfriend said $1250. Which was a hard pass from me. Someone actually went through the effort of tracking car down to the yard. I got the coordinates and doglegs are my version of heroin so I was on my way.

I had work off today cause I had to see G.I Specialist. So I packed the night before hoping it'd be all I need. Guy told me exhaust was cut by header.

Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr

Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr


Anxiously I headed there, and major roadway was shut down. So that added to the anxiety of wondering whether it'd be there. I'd never been to this yard before so it was new. They had new cars on right side, and old cars on left. It was split down the middle with a fence, and in the middle of the fence there was a gate. It was open so I dodged past them lifting and moving cars didn't think much of it. I then went wrong way, I was pretty hot at this point and getting annoyed. I wasn't sure it was still there as computer lady said there were no old BMW's and it's grey market so explaining 1978 635csi is tough. I checked last quadrant and finally stumbled upon it.

https://flic.kr/p/2gWFh7V by samleisey, on Flickr

A real euro m90 dogleg e24. It had swaybars, lowering spring poly bushings, newish A/C compressor. It had quite a bit of uhhh rust

Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr

Drivers rear floor pan was not looking pretty. Quite nerve racking since I'd be laying under it. Only LF and RR corners were supported. The other two were there, I added tires under all 4 wheels and got to work removing trans. Took first the 3 driveshaft bolts out, was easy enough. Pried it down and removed CSB so it was just hanging there. It was annoying being there, but worked around it. Then I removed slave, why e12 based cars have hard line for slave is beyond me. I bent it out of the way.

The real bear with the 4 nut design on the G265, is the top left nut. Usually I use a crows foot on that, luckily I packed the god tier BMW 17/19 wrench. The fix all. Whoever did the clutch over torqued the fuck outta of these. So crows foot was not working. Luckily 17/19 was fitting just enough to loosen it like 1/8 of a turn. However it was tight as shit, but I used cross member as lever, prying from trans tunnel against wrench and it came loose. Repeated same for top right side except using exhaust pipes as a place to pry.

Used cheater wrench on bottom ones, and top left nut was coming out with stud. Which was shitty but not the end of the world. Just pull trans back and keep working stud out.
I was then stuck here:
Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr

I did not have as much room as I thought with the exhaust situation. So the next hour was wrestling this trans out, what made it 8x harder was whatever ape cut exhaust had made a lip. Plan was to get it far enough back as I could. Then tip input shaft down. I am not a very big guy, not very tall at a staggering 120lb, but I was desperate so I wrestled though it. Laying on rocks in 100 degree heat, wishing I had brought a sawzall was not a fun experience. After 45 min of wiggling praying and just persistence. Actually cut into the aluminum in some places but it
Led me to hear:
Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr

This was by far the hardest part of this, this last couple inches. Trans was wedged in all the way up into body at this point with exhaust pressing it up. With some careful prying and again more persistence. Input shaft finally fell below bell-housing. I knew I was in it to win it at this point. Trans fell quite suddenly just missed my ribs, that was neat.

Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr

Leaving me with a beautiful sight. The saga did not end here, as I still didn't have a cart. Tried to ask a man to watch my tools, he didnt speak English. So I just left all my shit and luckily found a cart. Handles were quite hot so I had to spit on handle to not burn hands. That was neat. I already finished water and it wasn't getting any colder outside. It was about 102 out and I was pretty beat from wrestling trans. On my quest to find a cart I saw the gate was closed I that got me through left side of the yard, so now I was completely confused. I wasn't sure too leave if I had to go all way around the dividing wall (go up turn right) and then the full length of the fence back. This was far too long of a walk, with how tired I was. I saw people walking down along fence line earlier , and didn't see them anymore. Assumed that must be exit. That cart pull was quite miserable, ended up being the right way.

I then paid $174, for that whole experience and for this sight.
Untitled by samleisey, on Flickr

It had blue marks between front case and rear case so maybe it was serviced previously. It is missing left side mount, not sure why BMW only mounted trans on right side. I think a adapter can be made mounting to case bolts out of steel. If not, won't run one fuck it. This will be a spare, but I will need to install it to see if it works (if it rattles or grinds every gear) before I rebuild it.


Also got my car started:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEk2Oj7b-Fg

An eventful day.