Noob M30B35 Build
Same song different verse
Per Paul's recommendation, I'm building the same engine for my E9. Can't wait for updates.
A quick question:cek wrote:Acquired another harness. This one from an E34. It is in far better shape than the original E32 harness and will give me a lot more confidence.
Are you going to mount the ECU in the engine compartment by the battery or are you going to run all the wiring for the fuse box back through the firewall?
Either are not so good ideas. Get an SETA or '89 635 harness to save you a lot of work, since you'll be doing a lot of harness unraveling with an e34 version.
No exactly correct. 5 and 7 series B35 bracketry is different, while the 6 series B35 is the same as B34.ahab wrote:No, the mounting points on the B35 oil pan for the power steering pump and alternator bracket stuff is different. The alternator may work (can't remember) but the PS pump and bracket are wider on the B35. AC side is the same.cek wrote:Are the accessory mounts (e.g. for A/C, PS, Alternator) the same between the B34 and B35 blocks?
I mounted it right in the glovebox where the original ECU was, the E32 harness is long enough.BuzzBomb wrote: A quick question:
Are you going to mount the ECU in the engine compartment by the battery or are you going to run all the wiring for the fuse box back through the firewall?
Either are not so good ideas. Get an SETA or '89 635 harness to save you a lot of work, since you'll be doing a lot of harness unraveling with an e34 version.
It can be done.
This is the plan. I've started taking it apart, but got sidetracked by Maytag. Now that Maytag apparently needs no more love, I can start back on this project.wkohler wrote:There is plenty of length in that harness and the best thing is to take it all apart, run the wires where they need to go, tie out what isn't needed and re-wrap. Cleanest install.
I hugely disagree. I'm using the harness from an '89 635 and everything is exactly where it should be for an w28, including the correct firewall grommet. This is by far, the cleanest install.wkohler wrote:There is plenty of length in that harness and the best thing is to take it all apart, run the wires where they need to go, tie out what isn't needed and re-wrap. Cleanest install.
I strenuously object.
What the fuck does it matter? He doesn't have an E24 harness. He's got the E34 harness. The cleanest way to install the E34 harness is to do what I said. It reaches in the car and its fine. Besides, the E24 harness still has the round C101 so you have to make an adapter harness or adapt an E28 C101. If I was going to do this myself, which I never, ever will, I'd use the E24 one.
Seriously, if I said BMW made the E28, you'd say I was wrong.
What the fuck does it matter? He doesn't have an E24 harness. He's got the E34 harness. The cleanest way to install the E34 harness is to do what I said. It reaches in the car and its fine. Besides, the E24 harness still has the round C101 so you have to make an adapter harness or adapt an E28 C101. If I was going to do this myself, which I never, ever will, I'd use the E24 one.
Seriously, if I said BMW made the E28, you'd say I was wrong.
Grow up Kohler. You act like the earth would spin off its axis if anyone disagreed with you. I didn't call you an asshole or any thing, I just disagreed. People are allowed a different opinion. Deal with it.wkohler wrote:I strenuously object.
What the fuck does it matter? He doesn't have an E24 harness. He's got the E34 harness. The cleanest way to install the E34 harness is to do what I said. It reaches in the car and its fine. Besides, the E24 harness still has the round C101 so you have to make an adapter harness or adapt an E28 C101. If I was going to do this myself, which I never, ever will, I'd use the E24 one.
Seriously, if I said BMW made the E28, you'd say I was wrong.
I like PM's about as much as I like dirty door jambs. Sorry I did not reply. Here's what you posted, since there's nothing private about it:buzby wrote:PM sent, please answer
I did not remove anything from the housing. I will not be using that housing (I have a B34 block now and will be using a B34 housing that I am NOT powder coating).Hi, I am doing a similar build on an S38 B35. Noted you powder coated your oil filter housing. Did you have any issues with any of the plastic non return/by pass valves in the housing during the powder coating drying process? Or did you remove them prior to coating?
I am considering powder coating my housing with has a non metallic disc as by pass valve and cannot easily be removed.
Also, did you powder coat your cylinder head?
Thanks.
I did not powder coat the head.
No progress on this project for a while. I wanted to get Maytag sorted first. Now that it has a stereo and the interior is dry I'll likely start back on this project.
A few weeks ago Cruzin Performance got my rebuilt and flow-tested 24lbs injectors back to me.
I also had them rebuild/flow-test a set of 19lbs injectors that I'll keep as a backup/future project.
A few weeks ago Cruzin Performance got my rebuilt and flow-tested 24lbs injectors back to me.
I also had them rebuild/flow-test a set of 19lbs injectors that I'll keep as a backup/future project.
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Das_Prachtstrasse
- Posts: 5616
- Joined: Sep 10, 2006 7:06 AM
- Location: Melbourne, Doooown Under
Haven't checked into this thread for a while, but I like what I see. I'm hankering to get this trip of mine out of the way so I can redirect funds into my own high comp b35/ITB build, as it's been pushed aside for the time being. Bet you can't wait to install each one of those fasteners! I had a blast putting my ITB's back together with all new painted and coated bits, doing the same with the complete engine is going to be like Christmas.
Subscribed.
Subscribed.
Today's job was to refresh the wiring harness.
I have two. One that came from the donor 735i and another that I purchased from a member here that came from an E34. The E34 harness is in much better shape so that's what I'm basing on.
However, even it has old, hard wire insulation that cracks when bent. Today I set about removing all of that and re-wrapping using F4 tape. I've never used F4 tape before, but it seems like pretty awesome stuff!
As I was working I noticed one connector was broken. The 735i harness had a good one on it, so I snipped it off and spliced it in.
I'm also carefully cleaning all grime off the connectors and stuff so that it's like new. Still lots to do.
I have two. One that came from the donor 735i and another that I purchased from a member here that came from an E34. The E34 harness is in much better shape so that's what I'm basing on.
However, even it has old, hard wire insulation that cracks when bent. Today I set about removing all of that and re-wrapping using F4 tape. I've never used F4 tape before, but it seems like pretty awesome stuff!
As I was working I noticed one connector was broken. The 735i harness had a good one on it, so I snipped it off and spliced it in.
I'm also carefully cleaning all grime off the connectors and stuff so that it's like new. Still lots to do.
I finished fixing up the insulation on all the small leads on the harness.
I started re-wrapping the part of the loom that goes to the 20X connector and then realized that I wasn't sure how the harness would fit in the car.
My original plan was to keep the 20X from the E34. I kept the female 20X plug from the donor, along with a nice long pigtail. My plan was to splice in a spare E28 C101 connector.
I stopped and re-read the M30B35 FAQ and saw that savannah996 went down this same path and then changed his mind, instead snipping off the 20X from the E34 harness and splicing it directly into the C101 pig-tail. I will probably do the same thing.
So now I'm going to pause on working on the harness until the motor is in the car... I don't want to do it twice. But the harness is essentially ready to go.
I started re-wrapping the part of the loom that goes to the 20X connector and then realized that I wasn't sure how the harness would fit in the car.
My original plan was to keep the 20X from the E34. I kept the female 20X plug from the donor, along with a nice long pigtail. My plan was to splice in a spare E28 C101 connector.
I stopped and re-read the M30B35 FAQ and saw that savannah996 went down this same path and then changed his mind, instead snipping off the 20X from the E34 harness and splicing it directly into the C101 pig-tail. I will probably do the same thing.
So now I'm going to pause on working on the harness until the motor is in the car... I don't want to do it twice. But the harness is essentially ready to go.
The diesel did the trick. Enough soaked into the gasket to soften it up just enough so I could get to work with a razor blade and gasket scraper.
Now I'm going to soak it some more so I don't have to use the scraper to get the final bits off; I want to avoid marring the surface as much as possible.
Last time I did this I was on my back under my FJ40. THAT was a bitch. I do not like oil pan gaskets.
Now I'm going to soak it some more so I don't have to use the scraper to get the final bits off; I want to avoid marring the surface as much as possible.
Last time I did this I was on my back under my FJ40. THAT was a bitch. I do not like oil pan gaskets.
This is probably excruciatingly boring for most of you, but for me? Ha!
Got the oil pan as clean as it's going to be. There's still a little bit of caked on oil inside, but without putting the thing in an industrial dishwasher or something I'm calling it good enough.
And I have officially bolted something back together on this baby!
Of course I'm already missing a part. I can't find the plastic cover that goes over the hole on the back of the oil pan, part # 11131713202. Sigh.
Got the oil pan as clean as it's going to be. There's still a little bit of caked on oil inside, but without putting the thing in an industrial dishwasher or something I'm calling it good enough.
And I have officially bolted something back together on this baby!
Of course I'm already missing a part. I can't find the plastic cover that goes over the hole on the back of the oil pan, part # 11131713202. Sigh.
Got the oil pump (that I tore apart and rebuilt way back) on. Missing the clip that holds the plunger in (it's broken and I failed to order one back when I disassembled) so I can't put the oil pan on yet.
Flipped her over to start on the top. Not going to put the head on tonight 'cause I gotta go to the Sounders match. But a question:
Do I need to do any prep to the surface before putting the head gasket on (like make sure it's clean of oil or anything)?
Flipped her over to start on the top. Not going to put the head on tonight 'cause I gotta go to the Sounders match. But a question:
Do I need to do any prep to the surface before putting the head gasket on (like make sure it's clean of oil or anything)?
Looking at the head and trying to figure out if all is OK.
As you can see the rockers are not centered on the cams.
And on the rear on the intake side, the rocker shaft is pushed out the back of the block.
The cover will only push it in the length it is sticking out. To push it in the rest of the way, in order to make the rockers to actually be on the cams requires it to be sunk in about 3mm.
Here I'm using a socket to press it in as far as it will go:
Two questions:
1) Is it a problem that the camshaft appears to be a bit too far forward and that the rockers are not centered in the cams? I can't see how the camshaft moves/doesn't move forward/back.
2) What is supposed to keep the rear intake rocker shaft pressed in sufficiently? The parts diagrams don't show any insert or thing that goes between it and the rear cover.
As you can see the rockers are not centered on the cams.
And on the rear on the intake side, the rocker shaft is pushed out the back of the block.
The cover will only push it in the length it is sticking out. To push it in the rest of the way, in order to make the rockers to actually be on the cams requires it to be sunk in about 3mm.
Here I'm using a socket to press it in as far as it will go:
Two questions:
1) Is it a problem that the camshaft appears to be a bit too far forward and that the rockers are not centered in the cams? I can't see how the camshaft moves/doesn't move forward/back.
2) What is supposed to keep the rear intake rocker shaft pressed in sufficiently? The parts diagrams don't show any insert or thing that goes between it and the rear cover.