What did you do to your E28 today?
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Mark 88/M5 Houston
- Posts: 8548
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Far North Houston
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Das_Prachtstrasse
- Posts: 5616
- Joined: Sep 10, 2006 7:06 AM
- Location: Melbourne, Doooown Under
Yesterday, actually, but...
Washed the car and then vacuumed it.
Saturday, I went AutoX'ing with a friend, and today the provisional results were posted. Kinda glad that I was able to post a time that was decent in my eyes.
http://xmdforum.com/brian/2011-AX6-Prov ... esults.htm
Washed the car and then vacuumed it.
Saturday, I went AutoX'ing with a friend, and today the provisional results were posted. Kinda glad that I was able to post a time that was decent in my eyes.
http://xmdforum.com/brian/2011-AX6-Prov ... esults.htm
Fun with Transmission lines.
The other day ,Eliot tells me the radio and dash on Marina's car is dead. Curse you plastic fuses . Replaced 6 and 12 with no drama and stuff lit up. Felt pretty smug. Friday, after work, Eliot tells me the engine revs but the car barely moved. "oh. any leaks . esp purple stuff?"
"Yeah, up front" "Oh and I think the LF caliper is seized."
Pisser, There goes playing with the Ranger. I did manage to do a few other things. The Tranny lines were toast. I used a dremel to split the nut on its coupling. I sheared all of the original retainer screws. I used self drilling 10x3/4 screws to secure loop straps down the rail. The non-leaky hose was in just as bad shape. I doubt it would survive the event. I had a selection of 4 harvested lines.. I used the 2 best looking and went to town in 75 f /100% humidity
I was just setting up when I saw a hatchling snapping turtle.. There goes 20 minutes finding my way through the blow downs to the pond at the foot of the hill. It was cool.and sat in my palm the whole time.. Id be sad to see a crow get it. It will be fine now .
I think the bottom line is from a 535I , It is long enough to reach the right tank on the radiator. I got the shroud back in and the excess is a loop leaning up against the shroud.
The lines are way overbuilt for 25 psi.
I took off the caliper and pieces of pad fell out. . The rotor was in OK ~shape , but I had a good set waiting. I backed out the slide bolts, , loosened the bleeder and pried the pads open. Then I set the caliper on the rotor with a 2 by in it. I pumped the brakes again until the puck was right to the top. then I loosened the brake hose and headed for the vise. The puck was perfect, so was the dust cover. The way the cylinder is done with the seal at the top, corrosion lower down isnt a dig deal. I had a tube of Silglide , brake grease Yah. I know brake fluid works , but the goop is gentler on the hands. The puck was fine, just rusty at the dust cover.. A minute on the wire wheel took care of that. I didnt even need a clamp to install the puck. I used the butt of a BFSD to tap it in. I put it on after I did a little painting on the gable of the ell. I will check out the other side tomorrow. Meantime Marina is fine driving B6 II , so there is no pressure to get the job done quickly.
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"Yeah, up front" "Oh and I think the LF caliper is seized."
Pisser, There goes playing with the Ranger. I did manage to do a few other things. The Tranny lines were toast. I used a dremel to split the nut on its coupling. I sheared all of the original retainer screws. I used self drilling 10x3/4 screws to secure loop straps down the rail. The non-leaky hose was in just as bad shape. I doubt it would survive the event. I had a selection of 4 harvested lines.. I used the 2 best looking and went to town in 75 f /100% humidity
I was just setting up when I saw a hatchling snapping turtle.. There goes 20 minutes finding my way through the blow downs to the pond at the foot of the hill. It was cool.and sat in my palm the whole time.. Id be sad to see a crow get it. It will be fine now .
I think the bottom line is from a 535I , It is long enough to reach the right tank on the radiator. I got the shroud back in and the excess is a loop leaning up against the shroud.
The lines are way overbuilt for 25 psi.
I took off the caliper and pieces of pad fell out. . The rotor was in OK ~shape , but I had a good set waiting. I backed out the slide bolts, , loosened the bleeder and pried the pads open. Then I set the caliper on the rotor with a 2 by in it. I pumped the brakes again until the puck was right to the top. then I loosened the brake hose and headed for the vise. The puck was perfect, so was the dust cover. The way the cylinder is done with the seal at the top, corrosion lower down isnt a dig deal. I had a tube of Silglide , brake grease Yah. I know brake fluid works , but the goop is gentler on the hands. The puck was fine, just rusty at the dust cover.. A minute on the wire wheel took care of that. I didnt even need a clamp to install the puck. I used the butt of a BFSD to tap it in. I put it on after I did a little painting on the gable of the ell. I will check out the other side tomorrow. Meantime Marina is fine driving B6 II , so there is no pressure to get the job done quickly.
.
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TurboChris
- Posts: 894
- Joined: Aug 21, 2010 1:22 AM
- Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Fixed my idle problem.
I took apart my throttle position sensor and cleaned the contacts for the idle switch and the full throttle switch. The switch is not meant to come apart, but with a little prying and some epoxy afterwards, it wasn't too much of an issue. Idle's steady now and I have the full throttle signal working that I never had before.
I took apart my throttle position sensor and cleaned the contacts for the idle switch and the full throttle switch. The switch is not meant to come apart, but with a little prying and some epoxy afterwards, it wasn't too much of an issue. Idle's steady now and I have the full throttle signal working that I never had before.
new brakes!
Over the last couple of days...installed new cross drilled rotors, painted the calipers, new pads...now working on strut brace, alternator issue, and a draining battery electrical issue narrowed down to the relay for window switches and onboard computer! Pull the relay no drain, plug in relay drains the battery...so I have a little bit of work still to do!
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rmiddendorf
- Posts: 5568
- Joined: Jul 11, 2010 1:17 PM
- Location: Ohio
- Contact:
Did the front brakes, and replaced clutch master cylinder! Clutch pedal height is perfect now, smooth as silk and no cracks in pedal bracket from what I could see. The old master had the actuation rod pull right out of the body and raised the pedal to a ridiculous height. It still worked but it was not fun to drive. Now it's fun to drive again!
Thank you SEARCH function for all the help with the clutch master replacement!
Thank you SEARCH function for all the help with the clutch master replacement!
Put the driver's side door panel back together with the new handle. My 18 yr old son was helping, and ended up finishing the job on his own when I had to duck out for a while; did a fine job!
We replaced the plastic part around the door with the black panel I pulled from a junker a while back. We both like the tan inset with black surround & handle, so we'll be doing the other three doors that way.
We replaced the plastic part around the door with the black panel I pulled from a junker a while back. We both like the tan inset with black surround & handle, so we'll be doing the other three doors that way.
Had a look underneath today. I have Kohler's upper and lower control arms and steering links from the car that he parted, which I wanted to put in, since mine are rotten at 255K. Decided I don't have the tools or the time right now to replace the arms. Need: a lift, a torch, and compressed air attached to an impact wrench. I know it can be done without those things, but it will take me a week and occupy someone else's garage during that time.
What I actually got accomplished:
Stabilizer bar links front and rear. The rears were a bear to get off, but eventually I managed to get them done. The new ones went on easily with dish soap, as discussed here before.
I will see if this remedies the clunking sound I have front and rear, and go from there.
Next up: Spax springs (from Moosehead) and Billy Sports, along with control arms. Going to try to find my way into the garage of my father's friend where the proper tools live. Will also do pitman arms and possibly upper strut bearings then.
I also need new rotors and pads. And the shifter knob that came with the E36 manual transmission that this car had put in before I bought it is broken. Need new one.
What I actually got accomplished:
Stabilizer bar links front and rear. The rears were a bear to get off, but eventually I managed to get them done. The new ones went on easily with dish soap, as discussed here before.
I will see if this remedies the clunking sound I have front and rear, and go from there.
Next up: Spax springs (from Moosehead) and Billy Sports, along with control arms. Going to try to find my way into the garage of my father's friend where the proper tools live. Will also do pitman arms and possibly upper strut bearings then.
I also need new rotors and pads. And the shifter knob that came with the E36 manual transmission that this car had put in before I bought it is broken. Need new one.
I gave the trans cooling lines a final coat old ATF., put the wheels on and got her off the jack stands. A run down town showed the need for more ATF. A qt and a half worth. The leak and fixing it used 4 1/2 quarts of ATF . I used a quart of brake fluid refreshing the front brakes. The black plastic stick is hard for me to read. but I can tell how low a tranny is by how it drives. 
Painted and installed the airdam I bought from another member. Installed the newly painted bumper from the previous owner. Installed new foglights and front t/s lenses, replaced front bumper strips, and license plate mount with clean, used parts from the 535 @ Pick Your Part. Replaced the radiator and flushed the cooling system, refilled with BMW coolant/distilled 50/50. Got the cruise control working (clutch switch bracket adjustment). Adjusted the C.O. correctly and passed smog by a large margin. Drove the piss out of it up Cajon Pass with the A/C on to make sure the cooling system can hang.
Getting closer.....
Getting closer.....
Finally fixed the sagging sideskirt on the M535i.
Then, I pulled the fuel tanks out of the B7 Turbo. Would have had them out much sooner if some jackwad didn't weld some crap to a bolt to hold the wrong exhaust. Nothing like using a Sawzall at 4:30 am.
Of course, now I have to figure out how I'm going to hold it up, but it's all crap and it's all coming out. It's got two giant cats, though.
Then, I pulled the fuel tanks out of the B7 Turbo. Would have had them out much sooner if some jackwad didn't weld some crap to a bolt to hold the wrong exhaust. Nothing like using a Sawzall at 4:30 am.
Of course, now I have to figure out how I'm going to hold it up, but it's all crap and it's all coming out. It's got two giant cats, though.
On my 85 I stripped the screws on the TPS last night while trying to adjust it. My car smells horribly of gas lately and is running like turds. Time to search the archives!
On the 88 I finished painting the inside of the trunk. For a base I used silver rustoleum hammered finish after wire brushing some light rust scale, then went over the top of it with white rustoleum rattle can. The color is a cleaner white than the body due to a slight yellowing over the years but I'm fairly happy with the results. Though it seems like a lot of work for something no one should ever see, I'm hoping it will leave me a nice dry rust free trunk for a few more years. Next up is trunk gasket, put down some insulation, shampoo the trunk liners, and reinstall the tailights with new gaskets. Plus I'm prepping to paint the valve cover and whatnot while I keep plugging away on the baseline list.
On the 88 I finished painting the inside of the trunk. For a base I used silver rustoleum hammered finish after wire brushing some light rust scale, then went over the top of it with white rustoleum rattle can. The color is a cleaner white than the body due to a slight yellowing over the years but I'm fairly happy with the results. Though it seems like a lot of work for something no one should ever see, I'm hoping it will leave me a nice dry rust free trunk for a few more years. Next up is trunk gasket, put down some insulation, shampoo the trunk liners, and reinstall the tailights with new gaskets. Plus I'm prepping to paint the valve cover and whatnot while I keep plugging away on the baseline list.
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briansmith
- Posts: 508
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: 12020
I ordered 4 of those screws from Pelican before adjusting mine, received 3, and installed a pair last Sunday.stangkiller97 wrote:On my 85 I stripped the screws on the TPS last night while trying to adjust it.
Can got a set of Bilstein HDs and 524td springs yesterday, now I have a used pair of front Bilsteins to send for refurbishing.
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Das_Prachtstrasse
- Posts: 5616
- Joined: Sep 10, 2006 7:06 AM
- Location: Melbourne, Doooown Under
My exhaust tips were tilted to the right and it has bugged me for months. I drove past an exhaust shop near my home late this afternoon on a rainy day and noticed no cars in the bays and the guys just standing around. I pulled in and asked if they could help me with the issue. They drove it up on the lift and the guy put a rod through the pipes ahead of the muffler and straightened it out. He called me under and showed me that the pipes were twisting where they were clamped. He said that he needed to put some spot welds in there to keep it straight. Said it like he was asking for my permission. I said "yeah" could you do that? He said sure...attached a ground to the underside and continued to do so
I asked him how much and he said: "Nothing man...its just a thang."
Best thing that has happened to me for a while that is E28 related.
Awesome.
I asked him how much and he said: "Nothing man...its just a thang."
Best thing that has happened to me for a while that is E28 related.
Awesome.