MyE28.com

Next problem: When I recycled the old head bolts I didn't realize the new ones didn't come with washers. So now I need to get washers.

Still not convinced the head bolts will move the rocker shafts enough to cause the rockers to align on the cams though.

Part of the problem is the camshaft is currently at a point (which I think is TDC) such that the spring vavles for #2/#3 are under max tension making it impossible to slide that rocker shaft horizontally. I can't turn the camshaft because I don't want the other valves to contact the pistons. Not sure how do to this part.

I also can't find the flange that the upper timing chain sprocket connects to. I think it must have been left at my machinists. I have another on the other B34 head, but I'll see if my machinist has it first.



For funzies, we set the valve cover on

Just making sure new timing chain is the right length. New guide.



Getting the fasteners organized. You'll recall that I took pictures of each 'set' with their labeled zip locks before I sent them off to plating. Organizing like this is step one to ensuring I use the right fastener in the right place.



New B34 gooseneck for back of head coolant exit. The B35 has this covered up. The gooseneck off of the donor B34 was corroded through.



I'm mostly stalled at this point until I get washers for my head bolts and get a better understanding of how the rocker shafts/camshaft are supposed to line up... Also missing that sprocket flange...

I'll keep poking away at things that can be assembled regardless...

I just realized what happened to the timing chain sprocket flange. When I had my original B35 camshaft reground I never removed the nut, flange, and guide plate.



Then, I sold it.

Oops.

I guess it's a good thing I didn't sell this other B34 head I have with those parts on it :-)



Now to figure out how to get that nut off...

No way to get that nut off a camshaft while it's in the head, as far as I could see.

So we used this as an excuse to actually tear down a head. Remember I used my checkbook to have the B35 head rebuilt so I never tore a head down.

Following Bentley's we used screw drivers to leverage the rockers to free them from the cam lobes and with some finagling were able to pull the camshaft out.

According to what Spencer heard when he bought the parts car this B34 came from (same car, BTW that Vlad's IE/Bav auto exhaust came from) this B34 cam is 'tuned'. I have no way of measuring that or telling but it does look to be in fine shape. Happy to sell it to someone.





But that is neither her nor there for this project. The key is we now have the sprocket flange, etc on and in all our dinking around with this I've answered all the questions I had about how the camshaft and rocker shafts are aligned.





I have a bunch of misc parts to acquire before more progress can be made:

1 of 11131713202 (Covering Cap for oil pan)
1 of 07119934619 (lock ring for oil pump piston)
1 of 11421730294 (gasket for oil filter housing to B34 block)
14 of 11120621145 (washers for head bolts)
4 of 11421252343 (crush washers for banjo bolts)

The biggest blocker is the washers for the head bolts. Are there anything special about these washers?

cek wrote:Ok, it took just a few more minutes of me & my son thinking about it and we figured #1 out. The rocker shafts are held in place horizontally by the head bolts.

Restating: The rocker shafts have notches in them and the head bolts have flanges at the top that fit into these. This is what keeps the rocker shafts from moving laterally.

Would someone please verify that this is correct and comment.

I know that on some other engines there are either clips or a plate that keep the rocker shafts from moving laterally. I have poured over the parts diagrams and Bentley and think we're right about this, but I just want to make sure I'm not missing something.

Also, I'd love it if any of you who've been through this before would comment with "watch out for" or "the mistake I made" or "don't forget to". Before I clamp the head down and install the timing chain, etc...

Thanks.

Yes, the head bolts keep the rocker shafts more or less stationary.

I know this is a TOTAL noob question, but I just want to be damn sure.

The crank is at TDC when the dowel is at the top?

The camshaft is at TDC when the dowel is at 7pm?

Another noob question:

EDIT: Never mind. I read this:
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=70052

Where is it [critical | optional | not advised] to use locktite?

E.g. On these bolts that hold the camshaft chain sprocket?

Progress...

Bolted on some baubles like the oil filter housing.


Got a clip for the oil pump.



After CJ & I bolted down the head we did the oil pan.





Sexy, I know.

Found that I have either lost or never ordered timing chain cover gaskets. Oops.



Test fit the intake manifold. It's starting to look like a real engine...



I'm now considering powder coating the throttle body. Should I?

Working on clubbing baby seals, er, I mean replacing seals.



Like most questions I ask in this thread, I figure I'm not going to get any answers. Sometimes I wonder if people are actually reading this. Or maybe no one likes me.

Anyway, I've read that it's recommended that when putting on seals you should mount them at different locations than before within the part holding the seal, so that they ride on a different spot on the rotating part.

Then I look at the back of my crankshaft and notice this has a channel on it. And I wonder "What is THAT for?"



So there's my question. What is THAT for?

And some sex:

I think "That" might be the reason you install the seals a slightly different depth. The seal actually wears a low spot in the journal and can cause a leak.

I have seen grooves machined into journals and was told it helps throw off excess oil at high rpm again preventing leaks.

Not sure which of the two I am looking at in the picture.

We do, I do anyway, read your posts

Coldswede wrote:We do, I do anyway, read your posts

Thanks. Makes me feel loved.

The seal for the journal you show is really important and must not leak. It will contaminate your new clutch if it does so. The factory installs the seal faces flush with the covers, standard practice is to put new replacements seals about one mm deeper to allow the lip to ride on unworn steel.

I read too - you've done a great job documenting the teardown and rebuild process. Keep up the good work!

I ignore people who ask for attention

You are doing great work, sorry I missed some of the ? and answer sessions.

Sorry to say this now but I thought most would say to do the oil pan AFTER the timing covers. You might have a time getting the lower in correctly now. I also think most use a little sealant in the corners of those.where the head and cover gaskets meet.

cek wrote:Like most questions I ask in this thread, I figure I'm not going to get any answers. Sometimes I wonder if people are actually reading this. Or maybe no one likes me.

I've been subscribed for a long time and read every update (or at least ogle the pictures.) The whole thread has been incredibly instructive. I don't answer the questions simply because I don't have good answers for you.

Keep up the good work, Charlie.

Coldswede wrote:I think "That" might be the reason you install the seals a slightly different depth. The seal actually wears a low spot in the journal and can cause a leak.

That's my take on it. But if there is minimal wear it shouldn't be a problem regardless. As far as keeping up on your thread, I try, but sometimes I miss stuff. OK, some might say I miss a lot of stuff, but lets not go there...

All that work and you didn't repaint the throttle body?

cek wrote:I know this is a TOTAL noob question, but I just want to be damn sure.

The crank is at TDC when the dowel is at the top?

The camshaft is at TDC when the dowel is at 7pm?

Did you get the answer? SOMEONE will back me up here, or perhaps you got the answer... Remember that the engine is installed at an angle, so 6 o clock (example) on the pictured stand (straight up and down) will be different than 6 o clock in the bay. Your reference should be the INSTALLED 6 o'clock (example).

There was a guy that munched 3 or 4 heads before he realized that was the issue.

ldsbeaker wrote:

cek wrote:I know this is a TOTAL noob question, but I just want to be damn sure.

The crank is at TDC when the dowel is at the top?

The camshaft is at TDC when the dowel is at 7pm?

Did you get the answer? SOMEONE will back me up here, or perhaps you got the answer... Remember that the engine is installed at an angle, so 6 o clock (example) on the pictured stand (straight up and down) will be different than 6 o clock in the bay. Your reference should be the INSTALLED 6 o'clock (example).

There was a guy that munched 3 or 4 heads before he realized that was the issue.

I would appreciate a definitive answer. I've looked at Bentley's 6 ways to Sunday and have searched the forums and have not found anything that makes it super clear. Based on what I've read I think I have it correct in the picture above.

I always put the harmonic balancer on to see. It's got a line in it that should point straight up in the center to a corresponding mark in the casting of the lower timing cover. It's like you're doing things out of sequence.

Mike W. wrote:I always put the harmonic balancer on to see. It's got a line in it that should point straight up in the center to a corresponding mark in the casting of the lower timing cover. It's like you're doing things out of sequence.

I'm asking about the camshaft, not the crank.

I did mine like this. Of course I turned it over by hand many many times to be sure.



http://www.exx.se/techinfo/timing/

Got all my gaskets this week. Thanks Blunt & Strictly BMW.

Based on y'alls input I pulled the oil pan and did the lower covers first. I also used Permatex.







Once the permatex is dry I'll clean the excess off.