so... this is real money wasting... so stupid... this people doesnt know how much value parts of that engine has...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP7p90BsHEg
Dieselboost's 524compoundTD
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DieselBoost
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CoyoteStarfish
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Frybrid 524td
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DieselBoost
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DieselBoost
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DieselBoost
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Alleslowbuged
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DieselBoost
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DieselBoost
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Alleslowbuged
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Alleslowbuged
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Hi,
how can you inspect the car and get it road legal without an exhaust manifold? Is your car running in the moment, i mean did you drive it? However do have a new dyno date, i would really love to see the power and torque curves from your car.
My engine is still hashed, i have allready get my new mls headgasket with slightly bigger water ports, my camshaft is back from regrinding, but the head is still at the engine shop to get it plane and change the valve position to compensate the camshaft reginding.
I will also swap from mechanical water pump and visco fan to electrical pump and fan with digital controller, without a thermostat.
I hope to put it all together in 2 - 3 weeks.
Best Regard
how can you inspect the car and get it road legal without an exhaust manifold? Is your car running in the moment, i mean did you drive it? However do have a new dyno date, i would really love to see the power and torque curves from your car.
My engine is still hashed, i have allready get my new mls headgasket with slightly bigger water ports, my camshaft is back from regrinding, but the head is still at the engine shop to get it plane and change the valve position to compensate the camshaft reginding.
I will also swap from mechanical water pump and visco fan to electrical pump and fan with digital controller, without a thermostat.
I hope to put it all together in 2 - 3 weeks.
Best Regard
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vexu524tdic
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DieselBoost
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as vexu guessed, i inspected it with stock parts...vexu524tdic wrote:I guess he inspected it with original manifold and turbo.
Why are you opening water holes? I think water should go first through block and then to the head (as preheated?), that is why the rear water holes are bigger.
The electric pump is a good idea!
car is now fully road operational but i has broken alternator...
i changed regulator and brushes.... but it didnt make anything...
yes electric waterpump with big volume is good idea... it is in my "to do" list too
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DieselBoost
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Alleslowbuged
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do you need an generator?
I got my cylinder head back friday, but did not have had time to rebuilt. I stay with the stock valves, but the valve seat (sealing surface) is slighly increased in diameter and 0,5 mm deeper in the head. Although the valves are cutted 0,5 mm from the underside, so they are know ~2,0 / 2,5 mm reserve from the split line. The piston will be ~0,8 mm reserve to the topside of the cylinder head gasket, so minimum gap between piston and valve underside will be ~2,8 mm in TDC.
Next step will be to install one inlet and one exhaust valve and measure valve lift in overlap TDC, but i feel confident that the resultand gap will be sufficient. I also have to check if valve lash can still be adjusted.
After that i can put the head back on the block.
I play with the mind to install a E30 324TD exhaust manifold with a T25 flange instead the T3 flange and an additionally EGR flange, which could be used for an external wastegate. By doing this i would install a Switzer S2A turbo, which i have used in my 1.9 AAZ engine and which is captable to produce 2,0 bar boost with good efficiency. Under load i have had 2,0 bar at 3000 rpm in the 1.9 AAZ, so i think i would get full boost at ~2500 rpm in the BMW, should be a realy good spooler. The other way would be to stay with the stock exhaust manifold and try to put my S2b turbo, but this means much more trouble in regard of the external wastegate and i think some kind of spolling issue for a road car.
Best Regards
I got my cylinder head back friday, but did not have had time to rebuilt. I stay with the stock valves, but the valve seat (sealing surface) is slighly increased in diameter and 0,5 mm deeper in the head. Although the valves are cutted 0,5 mm from the underside, so they are know ~2,0 / 2,5 mm reserve from the split line. The piston will be ~0,8 mm reserve to the topside of the cylinder head gasket, so minimum gap between piston and valve underside will be ~2,8 mm in TDC.
Next step will be to install one inlet and one exhaust valve and measure valve lift in overlap TDC, but i feel confident that the resultand gap will be sufficient. I also have to check if valve lash can still be adjusted.
After that i can put the head back on the block.
I play with the mind to install a E30 324TD exhaust manifold with a T25 flange instead the T3 flange and an additionally EGR flange, which could be used for an external wastegate. By doing this i would install a Switzer S2A turbo, which i have used in my 1.9 AAZ engine and which is captable to produce 2,0 bar boost with good efficiency. Under load i have had 2,0 bar at 3000 rpm in the 1.9 AAZ, so i think i would get full boost at ~2500 rpm in the BMW, should be a realy good spooler. The other way would be to stay with the stock exhaust manifold and try to put my S2b turbo, but this means much more trouble in regard of the external wastegate and i think some kind of spolling issue for a road car.
Best Regards
Last edited by Alleslowbuged on Jun 11, 2012 5:09 PM, edited 1 time in total.
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DieselBoost
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yes i need... but without money... it is quite hard to get... my friend is electrics repair man and he will look it soon...
im making new boost pipes to my car, this time 2.5"
so much problems to get 3" pipes to fit with sand guard
i also make few modifications for future...
one throttle body in boost pipe near to the turbo...
this is if i go with sequential turbos...
i only need 76mm flap for downpipe and i can do it...
bad thing is that those flaps cost almost 280-400e!!
im making new boost pipes to my car, this time 2.5"
so much problems to get 3" pipes to fit with sand guard
i also make few modifications for future...
one throttle body in boost pipe near to the turbo...
this is if i go with sequential turbos...
i only need 76mm flap for downpipe and i can do it...
bad thing is that those flaps cost almost 280-400e!!
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Alleslowbuged
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DieselBoost
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DieselBoost
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Haha... nice it works.... both turbos are running at idle...
so that means my selfmaded exhaust flap works...
little test video http://youtu.be/yhxd5ofwQaY
so that means my selfmaded exhaust flap works...
little test video http://youtu.be/yhxd5ofwQaY
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Alleslowbuged
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Hi,
looks good.
Twin- or Bi-Turbo is were Diesel as road cars realy started, as we are limited in rev range on the high side and so need high boost for high peak power and also could not accept low torque at low to mid rpm. I am more and more excited to see you engine running and also to see some numbers.
I have a question for you:
My BMW head was regrinded at the sealing surface to get it plane again, but the shop did not dismount the swirl chamber, so now there is no retrusion between the swirl chamber and the sealing surface and i am concerned, that the swirl chamber will lift my head, when it realy get hot.
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
looks good.
Twin- or Bi-Turbo is were Diesel as road cars realy started, as we are limited in rev range on the high side and so need high boost for high peak power and also could not accept low torque at low to mid rpm. I am more and more excited to see you engine running and also to see some numbers.
I have a question for you:
My BMW head was regrinded at the sealing surface to get it plane again, but the shop did not dismount the swirl chamber, so now there is no retrusion between the swirl chamber and the sealing surface and i am concerned, that the swirl chamber will lift my head, when it realy get hot.
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
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DieselBoost
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