MyE28.com

so... this is real money wasting... so stupid... this people doesnt know how much value parts of that engine has...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP7p90BsHEg

That is awful. But I'm very surprised at how long the engine survived the torture.

Wow. What a fucking shithead.

not the first one i have seen in a snuff film

First short driving test completed at last night... without turbo

Today tasks...

-Fitting for the downpipe
-Valve clearances
-head stud retightening
-some electrical problems solving

ok...

Valve clearances checked and studs tightened + valve cover sealed...

only job for engine is boostpipe for my turbo...

after that other tasks...

-changing springs
-refurbishing brakes
-one small welding
-few electrical issues

nothing new?

Alleslowbuged wrote:nothing new?

Yes...

12mm 12.9 studs...

brakes & springs done...

still few electrical issues...

last week i had other stuff to make so next week i will continue my car...

I have broke my headgasket last week and send you a PM, would be nice if could answer me as soon as possible.

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged

Argh... dyno day is closing 19.5

still manhole in floor
electric issues etc
oil leak from bottom

after that inspection and i hope that my will pass it...

i need big inspiration to do this...

now my work day is with my own car tasks about 13h everyday!

Okay... my car is finally ready for inspection...

DieselBoost wrote:Okay... my car is finally ready for inspection...

5 days until dyno?

Best Regards

Alleslowbuged wrote:

DieselBoost wrote:Okay... my car is finally ready for inspection...

5 days until dyno?

Best Regards

Yep.... terrible hurry... still waiting my better exhaust manifold from machining

my car is inspected now and road leagal again...

dyno was today... but i didnt have exhaust manifold, so i wasnt there...

well i will book another dyno for my car....

Hi,

how can you inspect the car and get it road legal without an exhaust manifold? Is your car running in the moment, i mean did you drive it? However do have a new dyno date, i would really love to see the power and torque curves from your car.

My engine is still hashed, i have allready get my new mls headgasket with slightly bigger water ports, my camshaft is back from regrinding, but the head is still at the engine shop to get it plane and change the valve position to compensate the camshaft reginding.

I will also swap from mechanical water pump and visco fan to electrical pump and fan with digital controller, without a thermostat.

I hope to put it all together in 2 - 3 weeks.

Best Regard

I guess he inspected it with original manifold and turbo.

Why are you opening water holes? I think water should go first through block and then to the head (as preheated?), that is why the rear water holes are bigger.

The electric pump is a good idea!

vexu524tdic wrote:I guess he inspected it with original manifold and turbo.

Why are you opening water holes? I think water should go first through block and then to the head (as preheated?), that is why the rear water holes are bigger.

The electric pump is a good idea!

as vexu guessed, i inspected it with stock parts...
car is now fully road operational but i has broken alternator...
i changed regulator and brushes.... but it didnt make anything...

yes electric waterpump with big volume is good idea... it is in my "to do" list too

my car is ready... but need to make few modification to boost pipes that i will get front sand shield to fit...

and only issue why i dont drive it yet... is that alternator which is broken

but video material soon... very soon

do you need an generator?

I got my cylinder head back friday, but did not have had time to rebuilt. I stay with the stock valves, but the valve seat (sealing surface) is slighly increased in diameter and 0,5 mm deeper in the head. Although the valves are cutted 0,5 mm from the underside, so they are know ~2,0 / 2,5 mm reserve from the split line. The piston will be ~0,8 mm reserve to the topside of the cylinder head gasket, so minimum gap between piston and valve underside will be ~2,8 mm in TDC.

Next step will be to install one inlet and one exhaust valve and measure valve lift in overlap TDC, but i feel confident that the resultand gap will be sufficient. I also have to check if valve lash can still be adjusted.

After that i can put the head back on the block.

I play with the mind to install a E30 324TD exhaust manifold with a T25 flange instead the T3 flange and an additionally EGR flange, which could be used for an external wastegate. By doing this i would install a Switzer S2A turbo, which i have used in my 1.9 AAZ engine and which is captable to produce 2,0 bar boost with good efficiency. Under load i have had 2,0 bar at 3000 rpm in the 1.9 AAZ, so i think i would get full boost at ~2500 rpm in the BMW, should be a realy good spooler. The other way would be to stay with the stock exhaust manifold and try to put my S2b turbo, but this means much more trouble in regard of the external wastegate and i think some kind of spolling issue for a road car.

Best Regards

yes i need... but without money... it is quite hard to get... my friend is electrics repair man and he will look it soon...

im making new boost pipes to my car, this time 2.5"
so much problems to get 3" pipes to fit with sand guard

i also make few modifications for future...
one throttle body in boost pipe near to the turbo...
this is if i go with sequential turbos...
i only need 76mm flap for downpipe and i can do it...
bad thing is that those flaps cost almost 280-400e!!

I have a spare engine with two generators, so if you get trouble to fix yours, send me a PM and we will find a way.

Best Regards

Thanks...


well i have new ideas... im working with sequential turbo system now...

i have new boostpipes almost ready with 65mm throttle body in in...

and making exhaust system with 76mm flap...

turbos are that old big masterpower and mitsubishi td04 from m51 engine...

lets see what i get :P

Haha... nice it works.... both turbos are running at idle...
so that means my selfmaded exhaust flap works...

little test video http://youtu.be/yhxd5ofwQaY

Hi,

looks good.

Twin- or Bi-Turbo is were Diesel as road cars realy started, as we are limited in rev range on the high side and so need high boost for high peak power and also could not accept low torque at low to mid rpm. I am more and more excited to see you engine running and also to see some numbers.

I have a question for you:
My BMW head was regrinded at the sealing surface to get it plane again, but the shop did not dismount the swirl chamber, so now there is no retrusion between the swirl chamber and the sealing surface and i am concerned, that the swirl chamber will lift my head, when it realy get hot.

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged

if in same plane that sealing surface, then it is good... they will not lift you cylhead up