But, but, but... perhaps not for you, but for most of those who run big thumping stereos, letting everyone know you have a big thumping stereo is the whole purpose. Listening to it is irrelevant.gwb72tii wrote: Dec 05, 2022 3:05 PM
The amazing (at least to me) result of installing this box is the huge, controlled bass without the car thumping all over the street.
No, that's the folks after the baby boomers. The Gen-X and later are most concerned with the ability to let those outside the vehicle know how bad the driver's taste in music really is.Mike W. wrote: Jan 16, 2023 7:19 PM
But, but, but... perhaps not for you, but for most of those who run big thumping stereos, letting everyone know you have a big thumping stereo is the whole purpose. Listening to it is irrelevant.
curious, do you have a pass through from the trunk thru the center armrest? was used for skis I believe, at least in e30's. that's where we'd position the sub to fire through, but my car has no passthrough and I'm reluctant to start sawing a BF hole.Blue Shadow wrote: Jan 16, 2023 7:47 PMNo, that's the folks after the baby boomers. The Gen-X and later are most concerned with the ability to let those outside the vehicle know how bad the driver's taste in music really is.Mike W. wrote: Jan 16, 2023 7:19 PM
But, but, but... perhaps not for you, but for most of those who run big thumping stereos, letting everyone know you have a big thumping stereo is the whole purpose. Listening to it is irrelevant.
My thumping and bumping subs are for occupant's enjoyment mostly, back massages in the rear seats. Those outside the vehicle don't hear much until I open the windows.
I have a hole cut in the rear firewall for the dual 10" to fire through. The box is bolted to the firewall and has two chambers, one for each driver.
I was gonna say Phuket, because I like to say Phuket...
Actually off of Taha'a, but you can see Bora Bora:
The entire earth and I missed it by 10 miles? Dang. Was it Le Taha'a Island Resort & Spa? They have a similar viewgwb72tii wrote: Jan 22, 2023 12:51 PM
Close, very close, but no cigar
Actually off of Taha'a, but you can see Bora Bora:
Not sure I've ever used it on the cars, but I can see it would work, but they're dynamite inside the house.
Looks stunning!
You can pull the carpet out to clean, agitate & pressure-wash it. Blue Shadow has done that with great results.Panici wrote: Jan 28, 2023 6:48 AMCarpet came up decent for a first-pass. You have to figure there may be 30+ years of dirt in some parts.
I've seen some detailing videos where they vibrate the carpet to help knock some dirt loose from the fibers. Haven't tried it myself but seems to help?
So, so true garageboy!!! I love to see these comments from some people in threads that say the body and paint work will be $10K, or even $15K. Not even close if you want it done right and looking proper... I'm on my 5th project car and the body & paintwork is always the most expensive factor in a restoration or "refresh"!!garageboy wrote: Dec 01, 2021 4:05 AM
Here is the truth. Since I was a wee lad, it's expensive to paint a car. To do it right, it's always going to be expensive. The "paint the car" part is the easy part. I have a friend who went through all the BMW manufacturer painting instruction over 30 years. Of course they learned about the evolution of BMW's brilliance in applying paint to a car, culminating in the BMW Paint System (the globally-environmentally-award-winning process) that is water-based and bulletproof. But none of that is possible without the initial assembly, rustrproofing, and dipping in zinc.
The time AND cost is in the preparation. It doesn't matter how well you paint a car if it isn't prep'd properly. And to really do it correctly, it takes hours of meticulous hand-eye work to mimic what happened when the car came out of the factory, to ensure the best quality paint job. And, of course, the post-painting part of the process is equally time-consuming.
THIS HAS ALWAYS BEEN TRUE. And it always will be. You get what you pay for.
The other truth is a less happy one. If you discover your E28 has rust, you will eventually be forced to accept that in addition to the rust you can see, there is more rust you cannot see. So unless it is a special car that will fetch more than US$100,000, chasing after rust is a fool's errand. Good luck with the restoration!
Sounds temp related.gwb72tii wrote: May 23, 2023 4:38 PM Lately Maeve has been ignored while my wife's number one project, the garden and shed for her, was finished (by me). Now that I'm close to done with that, it's about time to turn my attention back to Maeve and her restoration.
I am trying to formulate where to look for the problem I had driving her north from Mesa, AZ to Seattle. Here's the symptoms:
1. Maeve would die suddenly when driving on the freeway at speed, somewhere around 75mph. I'd cost to a stop, and she'd restart within 5 minutes, sometimes right away. I learned to drive in the right hand lane only.
2. Would die when giving her too much throttle.
3. Died going up the hill north of Grants Pass, Oregon, a long incline. Could not get her restarted sitting on the side of the freeway. Started immediately when lowered off the flat bed towing truck in Roseburg when the ground was level.
I thought all the above might have been from the in-tank fuel pick up being fowled by rust flakes but is not the case. Installed an in-tank fuel pump (identical to Vlad) but no change to symptoms.
So you e28 experts, what do you think the cause is?
Maybe check the OBC relay under the dash? Have seen similar posts recently and this seems to be a common relay that goes bad.Blue Shadow wrote: May 24, 2023 7:12 PM As John stated, the relay socket allowed the connector female spade to back out over the multiple changes of the relay. It made limited contact and powered the car until it lost connection. Car rolling along just fine, tach drops to zero and we roll to the side of the road. Touch stuff under the hood and it starts back up until it didn't.
Must have been a low current connection as the touching connection would not have supported the full power through the relay.
No. On a manual car the TPS sees idle, where it will not allow speed over ~1300 RPM before it cuts fuel supply, only to start after it goes below to cause an endless cycle of up/down. But not dying. And in the middle where it does nothing, and wide open throttle, which is really more like ~3/4 throttle, where it goes to an open loop fuel map, ignores the O2 input and enriches things. But those 3 states, idle, no input, WOT.gwb72tii wrote: Jun 03, 2023 11:17 PM
1. Is there such a thing as a throttle position sensor that craps out if you press the throttle too far? It allows the car to run like grandma is driving it, but the defect cuts off fuel supply if you gun it.
Was it gradual or on/off. If gradual, it points towards fuel supply. If it just shut off, it points towards towards electronics. On my 535 several times it just shut off driving. Coasted to the side, after a deep breath I turned the key and it started up like nothing ever happened. 10s of thousands of miles later other things started to appear occasionally, including an idle that was just ever so slightly off. Problem was the AFM. Based on your symptoms I'd also suspect the speed sensor. At the least ohm both sensors out, wiggling the end as you're doing it and compare to spec. The speed and reference (and the reference is only used on starting) can be flaky and intermittent.
2. If the car was sitting flat, it would restart after dying. But parked on the side of the road going uphill out of Grants Pass it would not restart. Later, after getting flat towed to Roseburg, the car started right up after being rolled off the flat bed tow truck at the local o’reilly’s. If it were just a defective TPS it shouldn’t matter if it’s flat or at an angle.
