MyE28.com DEV

I guess he inspected it with original manifold and turbo.

Why are you opening water holes? I think water should go first through block and then to the head (as preheated?), that is why the rear water holes are bigger.

The electric pump is a good idea!

vexu524tdic wrote:I guess he inspected it with original manifold and turbo.

Why are you opening water holes? I think water should go first through block and then to the head (as preheated?), that is why the rear water holes are bigger.

The electric pump is a good idea!

as vexu guessed, i inspected it with stock parts...
car is now fully road operational but i has broken alternator...
i changed regulator and brushes.... but it didnt make anything...

yes electric waterpump with big volume is good idea... it is in my "to do" list too

my car is ready... but need to make few modification to boost pipes that i will get front sand shield to fit...

and only issue why i dont drive it yet... is that alternator which is broken

but video material soon... very soon

do you need an generator?

I got my cylinder head back friday, but did not have had time to rebuilt. I stay with the stock valves, but the valve seat (sealing surface) is slighly increased in diameter and 0,5 mm deeper in the head. Although the valves are cutted 0,5 mm from the underside, so they are know ~2,0 / 2,5 mm reserve from the split line. The piston will be ~0,8 mm reserve to the topside of the cylinder head gasket, so minimum gap between piston and valve underside will be ~2,8 mm in TDC.

Next step will be to install one inlet and one exhaust valve and measure valve lift in overlap TDC, but i feel confident that the resultand gap will be sufficient. I also have to check if valve lash can still be adjusted.

After that i can put the head back on the block.

I play with the mind to install a E30 324TD exhaust manifold with a T25 flange instead the T3 flange and an additionally EGR flange, which could be used for an external wastegate. By doing this i would install a Switzer S2A turbo, which i have used in my 1.9 AAZ engine and which is captable to produce 2,0 bar boost with good efficiency. Under load i have had 2,0 bar at 3000 rpm in the 1.9 AAZ, so i think i would get full boost at ~2500 rpm in the BMW, should be a realy good spooler. The other way would be to stay with the stock exhaust manifold and try to put my S2b turbo, but this means much more trouble in regard of the external wastegate and i think some kind of spolling issue for a road car.

Best Regards

yes i need... but without money... it is quite hard to get... my friend is electrics repair man and he will look it soon...

im making new boost pipes to my car, this time 2.5"
so much problems to get 3" pipes to fit with sand guard

i also make few modifications for future...
one throttle body in boost pipe near to the turbo...
this is if i go with sequential turbos...
i only need 76mm flap for downpipe and i can do it...
bad thing is that those flaps cost almost 280-400e!!

I have a spare engine with two generators, so if you get trouble to fix yours, send me a PM and we will find a way.

Best Regards

Thanks...


well i have new ideas... im working with sequential turbo system now...

i have new boostpipes almost ready with 65mm throttle body in in...

and making exhaust system with 76mm flap...

turbos are that old big masterpower and mitsubishi td04 from m51 engine...

lets see what i get :P

Haha... nice it works.... both turbos are running at idle...
so that means my selfmaded exhaust flap works...

little test video http://youtu.be/yhxd5ofwQaY

Hi,

looks good.

Twin- or Bi-Turbo is were Diesel as road cars realy started, as we are limited in rev range on the high side and so need high boost for high peak power and also could not accept low torque at low to mid rpm. I am more and more excited to see you engine running and also to see some numbers.

I have a question for you:
My BMW head was regrinded at the sealing surface to get it plane again, but the shop did not dismount the swirl chamber, so now there is no retrusion between the swirl chamber and the sealing surface and i am concerned, that the swirl chamber will lift my head, when it realy get hot.

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged

if in same plane that sealing surface, then it is good... they will not lift you cylhead up

Hi,

i have bolted the head down today, but still need a lot of parts before it will runing again. The regrindiner for the camshaft had make a msitake and has to regrind the cam again.

Did you make any new progress?

Best Regards

Alleslowbuged wrote:Did you make any new progress?

in this weekend... no...
in next week i will do something....

Hi,

so whats happend?

Best Regards

nothting... i was in music event...

but what i know that my alternator is melted... im waiting parts for it...

Road testing begins today... now i have single turbo again due to lack of parts for my biturbo...

but yes just got insurance for my car... and sweeeeeeet jesus here i come!

Hi,

nice to hear, waiting for some crazy video stuff

Best Regards.

P.S.
I shedule to start my engine this weekend, everything missing are two injectors and a pice of Ø38er cooling hose, but i have still some electrical work to carry out for the electrical water pump and fan.

Well... over 300km for this day and everything is fine...
at this moment i has 1.2bar boost
engine is getting way too much fuel
engine temperature is rising with idle caused by fan which doesnt work properly...

but at this moment im very pleased to my car....

Ok.... again something went wrong...

water temperature is rising too much and i cant get it cool....
water pressure is still good... measured that it is about 1bar with 100c temperature...

this problem started today after one 1.2bar boost quick acceleration...
first temperature cooled normally... but after minutes with normal driving it started to rise... even that i tried to drive about 80km/h for cooling...

there is only one reason that i was warned about....
those hard studs... and thermal expansion of aluminum and iron...
it seems that my studs where loosened and gasket started to leak...

Hi,

did you use stainless steel studs?

If yes they have a thermal expansion rate of ~ 17 - 18 * 10^-6 °C-1 instead of 12 - 13 * 10^-6 °C ^-1, which could cause your problem.

But even then the tension would rise with increasing temperature, because the aluminuim has a rate of ~ 23 * 10^-6 °C ^-1 and it is verly unlikely that the studs will getting hotter than the cylinderhead.

If you still have the old metal seal cap on your water expansion tank, you will never see much higher pressures than 1,0 bar, because the cap opens very early. Did you loose coolant?

I would assume that you get exhaust gases in the cooling system, which somehow interrups the proper cooling flow and therefore it did not cool down normaly.

As i write earlier, i will change my coolant system significant and i would suggest to block the small hose from the cylinder head to the thermostat valve on the injection pump to the return line of the heating circle. First of all, the water from there will not flow through the cooler and second the flow will increase with higher RPM, due to the increased pressure loss of the cooler and the main thermostat valve.

I hope that there is no issue with headgasket and wish good luck by determinating the root cause of your issue.

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged

Hi...

I has that newer plastic cap in my expansion tank
that cold start thermosthat thing is terminated

studs are regular 12.9 12mm studs not stainless steel
i re torqued those now with 150nm...

i tested my engine today with boost and about 20km driving...
that overflow hose is now out of bonnet... that i can see if its making over pressure or spraying water out of coolant system...
but now everything is fine...
i deleted my thermosthat and engine temperature is staying in about 70-80c in normal driving...

one thing is that my block is not machined before mls gasket.... and that may be the reason for leakage...

and i will test my engine for co2 testing fluid next week... when we got it back from one guy...

Hi,

i do not like the newer plastic cap, i have had one a couple of years ago and only have had trouble with my cooling system in that time.

Did i understood you correctly that you will search for leckage with C02 gas and a detector?

Best Regards

Sorry... Co test with that tester fluid which changes color if Co is detected...

but...

now my car works fine what comes with cooling system etc...

i foud that that little hose from expansion tank to radiator was blocked by debris... now it works again... not heat problems

my opinion is that plastic cap works better than that old metal version

now i must do some adjustments for my engine when i have time to do that...

ok... now we are getting something...

now cooling is working very well...
exhaust temperature with full acceleration is below 600c
with 1.7bar boost...

and it really moves quite fast... but not enough for me...

i adjusted advance to 0.85mm btdc from 1mm btdc (accidentally wrong advance) and no low rpm power....
maybe trying for 0.90mm
now turbo is spooling in lower area than before....

next job is changing the lift pump to better model
getting more boost (2.5bar)

and installing small turbo for low RPM...

Hi,

that sound very good, i am happy that it runs fine now. EGT below 600°C at full throttle is very impressive, i would like if my would stay below 800°C even with smaller boost pressure.

Best Regards

Alleslowbuged wrote:EGT below 600°C at full throttle is very impressive, i would like if my would stay below 800°C even with smaller boost pressure.

Too small turbo.... you know...

Hi,

yes i know.

I found a place and a water hose solution for my electrical water pump yesterday and also start the engine for a few seconds (no water filled in). So i hope to get it back on the street this weekend. Besides the water pump i have change to a regrindet camshaft, but stay with the stock turbo, because i wand the 1:1 comparison with the stock and regrinded camshaft.

So as a result i assume to get a car with massive low torque and not bad peak power. I would love to see a comparison of dyno plots between our both engines, yours with big turbo, big boost and i assume big peak power now and my engine with probably a bit more low end torque (later injection, smaller turbo) and regrinded camshaft for ensure high rpm air flow.

I have to drive very carfull the first 1000 km, because of the camshaft, but did you shedule a dyno day allready?

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged

P.S.
I would also love to see a video and hear your engine sound with the big turbo. I tried to make a small video with my AAZ to show the multilayer sound of raw diesel engine - sport exhaust buzz and additional jet engine whoosh when the free waste gate (no muffler) start to dump exhaust gases, but failed because my gopro camera did not make good sound records.

Anyhow if wand to look it:
http://s702.photobucket.com/albums/ww24 ... 2012-1.mp4

i was at race track... turbo is really too laggy now...
boost
1st gear 0.5bar
2nd gear 1.5bar
3rd gear 1.9bar
4th gear 2.2bar (over 150km/h)
5th gear ? (not yet tested)

but even getting turbo spooling up with 3rd gear in track was hard...
weather was very bad too

just one guy calculated compression rate of my engine with mls
it is very close to 16:1 so need really that 2.5bar or 3bar boost

i was very pleased to my coolant system and exhaust temperatures...
cooland was below 80c and egt below 600c

so do not expect anything furios about in this video

http://youtu.be/VNwrmIOtG5g

Hi,

nice to see and hear your car again. From the video it looks like it would behavior more like a NA than a Turbo and as you would never creep over the point, where the turbo (and engine) really goes on.

1:16 is a really low compression rate in my eyes, why did you reduce it that much, do you just wand to use the car on a race track?

Just for clarify you measure the egt upfront the turbo not afterwards or?

I started my E28 last weekend again and make a first small round (~15 km), but i have installed the additionally temp sensor for the pump on the wrong place (cool side of the cooler not hot side), so i have to work again, before i can finaly get it back into operation.

I was also on the drag race with my Golf last weekend, here is a short video of my best run (15,4s):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35GYWGGH ... el&list=UL

Best Regards

in third gear it kicks quite much but video tricks quite much... but yeah 1.9bar is nothing for this engine...

compression rate is caused by my mls gasket... which is thick
i had no options when i got it... i bought it from my friend...

egt is measured before turbo

i will do new video from airfield when i got new gearbox on it

Hi,

i did not mean that it looked slow, i just meant that the power increase sounds very linear.

I was very positive suprised when i first drive my aaz with the S2A turbo about the low end torque without much boost, but it is not that spectacular as with the small turbos, until you go for full attack than it is vice versa, but i realy like this behavior.

Just to say it again, i realy appreciate your build thread here so please keep us informed with your great build.

Best Regards