E28 Megasquirt FAQ
quick question but i hate to do things twice.... my project has been on hold for a bit but im trying to get somethings done while it sits. Anyway its a really simple question, pertaining to the wiring of the crank/vr signal wiring, on the pin out you provided, brad, it says pins 24 and 7 for the wiring but if i already have a built loom and the sheilding is going back to pin out 2 on the db37 then the black would go to the center wire of the sheilded wire then the sheilding would connect to the other sheilding and then the yellow would go to my sensor grounding bunch? is it even worth me wiring this in before i have my 60-2 setup?
so just a small up date for me, to date the motor is still out of the car and i do still have to order some other small parts so that the mega squirt will have all readings.... ie TPS O2 and VR sensor. But everything else is wired up and or extended for easier wiring. I installed the Megasquirt in the glove box on the left and my two cross-overs for my speakers on the right.
I modified the glove box so that instead of hinging at the back like everyone elses does i now carfully cut the face off it and installed a hinge so that when it opens it drops down only about an inch and the the front pivots open. i did this partly cause i have already built custom kick pods but they were a bit tall and ran in to the underside of the kick pod. the other reason i did this is i am planning on putting some keyboard tray slides on either side so that i can A.) set my laptop on top of it and B.) put some cup holders in it too.
Okay back on the topic, back a while ago i was confronted with a challange or obstical where everyone with a 535 had a 3 wire ICV and i had a simple 2 wire(533). So instead of going with the glensgarage board and finding a 3 wire is went with a simpler setup that appears to work just fine in PWM warm up or closed loop. PCBv3 -- PWM IAC Valve Control (TIP120) 'Mod-Kit'. from what it appears when i look closly at the adapter board this small kit i picked up from DIY does it pretty much the same. Just less fancy and a bit easier to hide. Needless to say i tested it out last light and it appears to be working and responding very nicely. The only thing i find is it never completly closes, as when power is removed from it its natural state is open with full flow.
I also wired in another 2 circuits one for the experimental boost control and one for electric fan, i have a third relay circuit that i could solder in but i think im going to for go the methyl sprayer...... for now.
a question for you now. when i tested out my sensors, open air. (CLT and IAT) my IAT worked perfectly right up to 100c, its a purchased GM one so im guessing that is the upper limit of the sensor. as far as the CLT when i tested that the upper limit reached was only 62c which is no good cause i was using a propane torch to warm it slowly and it peaked there and did not get hotter, Now i tried the other CLT that would plug in to the same socket (theres like 4 sensors just in the thermostat housing. 2 with the same plug.) and that one didnt read, but i was thinking i may have to calibrate it, Anyway if someone could describe the one i am supposed to use and if it needs to be calibrated that would be much appreciated.
other then that, i have started putting the block back together but snaped the original rings so that is sitting. started to do some of the body work, got some tires that are going to be really tight. almost finish the rest of the interior. I think i'll post up some more pics in eye candy.
thanks for the help.
steve
I modified the glove box so that instead of hinging at the back like everyone elses does i now carfully cut the face off it and installed a hinge so that when it opens it drops down only about an inch and the the front pivots open. i did this partly cause i have already built custom kick pods but they were a bit tall and ran in to the underside of the kick pod. the other reason i did this is i am planning on putting some keyboard tray slides on either side so that i can A.) set my laptop on top of it and B.) put some cup holders in it too.
Okay back on the topic, back a while ago i was confronted with a challange or obstical where everyone with a 535 had a 3 wire ICV and i had a simple 2 wire(533). So instead of going with the glensgarage board and finding a 3 wire is went with a simpler setup that appears to work just fine in PWM warm up or closed loop. PCBv3 -- PWM IAC Valve Control (TIP120) 'Mod-Kit'. from what it appears when i look closly at the adapter board this small kit i picked up from DIY does it pretty much the same. Just less fancy and a bit easier to hide. Needless to say i tested it out last light and it appears to be working and responding very nicely. The only thing i find is it never completly closes, as when power is removed from it its natural state is open with full flow.
I also wired in another 2 circuits one for the experimental boost control and one for electric fan, i have a third relay circuit that i could solder in but i think im going to for go the methyl sprayer...... for now.
a question for you now. when i tested out my sensors, open air. (CLT and IAT) my IAT worked perfectly right up to 100c, its a purchased GM one so im guessing that is the upper limit of the sensor. as far as the CLT when i tested that the upper limit reached was only 62c which is no good cause i was using a propane torch to warm it slowly and it peaked there and did not get hotter, Now i tried the other CLT that would plug in to the same socket (theres like 4 sensors just in the thermostat housing. 2 with the same plug.) and that one didnt read, but i was thinking i may have to calibrate it, Anyway if someone could describe the one i am supposed to use and if it needs to be calibrated that would be much appreciated.
other then that, i have started putting the block back together but snaped the original rings so that is sitting. started to do some of the body work, got some tires that are going to be really tight. almost finish the rest of the interior. I think i'll post up some more pics in eye candy.
thanks for the help.
steve
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e30-m30_kid89
- Posts: 436
- Joined: Oct 20, 2008 1:17 PM
- Location: Toronto, ON
Just wondering, what resistance values are you guys using for the stock CLT sensor? I'm using the values from the "megasquirt e30 wiki"
-15degC-------12002
30degC-------1707
100degC-----187
If anybody is using or would like to share their values they might've came up on their own that would be great.
-15degC-------12002
30degC-------1707
100degC-----187
If anybody is using or would like to share their values they might've came up on their own that would be great.
I figured Id post this here also, as Ive never posted my maps. I believe the timing map is really good now for a b35 that can pass a strict smog test.
I made some log runs today and got the system pretty well tuned for my liking. I set the AFRs a little lower by just a bit and am real happy with the results. Plus I havent posted my maps so it seemed now was a good time. First the log..
Ive got it to run ~11.5AFRs @ 11psi. As you can see the PW is very high at 86% with just 32lbs injs. The car runs real strong. Its also getting to peak boost sooner with the timming map changes. And on a hot day like today, ~28C, thats really nice.
The WG works well here on the street as it peaks @ 179kPa and falls into a range of ~170kPa.
Um, does anybody else's boost signal look similar? As the boost flatens out, it oscillates from ~164kPa to 175kPa.? Im not sure if thats the oscillation of the Apex-I AVCR or not? Exhaust pulsations maybe?
That log should equate on a dyno of 310-320whp if I can every get the boost to hold on a dyno!
RussC
I made some log runs today and got the system pretty well tuned for my liking. I set the AFRs a little lower by just a bit and am real happy with the results. Plus I havent posted my maps so it seemed now was a good time. First the log..
Ive got it to run ~11.5AFRs @ 11psi. As you can see the PW is very high at 86% with just 32lbs injs. The car runs real strong. Its also getting to peak boost sooner with the timming map changes. And on a hot day like today, ~28C, thats really nice.
The WG works well here on the street as it peaks @ 179kPa and falls into a range of ~170kPa.
Um, does anybody else's boost signal look similar? As the boost flatens out, it oscillates from ~164kPa to 175kPa.? Im not sure if thats the oscillation of the Apex-I AVCR or not? Exhaust pulsations maybe?
That log should equate on a dyno of 310-320whp if I can every get the boost to hold on a dyno!
RussC
no problems, I just haven't heard a peep out of him.-
Canuck YYC
- Posts: 332
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- Location: Calgary, Alberta
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FirstFives Dictator
- Posts: 849
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Virginia Beach, VA
- Contact:
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Lee in Ottawa
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Need a little more help. Being held back from starting right now by 2 problems.
#1. megatune shows 3.90volts when the ignition is on yet my battery is fine. When the car is turned over voltage shows fine however and that is the only way we were able to load a tune onto megatune.
#2. TPS seems to be hooked up fine (M50 tps) however it is not responding with megatune and won't let us calibrate it?
Those are the only 2 problems but their big ones. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Car is a 90 535i, goatthumper MS 2 v3.0, TCD stg 2
#1. megatune shows 3.90volts when the ignition is on yet my battery is fine. When the car is turned over voltage shows fine however and that is the only way we were able to load a tune onto megatune.
#2. TPS seems to be hooked up fine (M50 tps) however it is not responding with megatune and won't let us calibrate it?
Those are the only 2 problems but their big ones. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Car is a 90 535i, goatthumper MS 2 v3.0, TCD stg 2
I would check your grounds, i know when i was dry running my megasquirt with no motor in i had a ground not hooked up and i was getting 3 to 24 volts some how, once the grounds were hooked up i no longer had the voltage issues, once you get the power issue sorted then i would take another look at the tps, til then dont even bother with that issue.
my 0.02$
my 0.02$
Sorry if I'm just going blind, but I can't find these adapter boards anywhere, I'm planning on using my stock 2 wire idle air control valve from my m20b27. Is this possible? I assume from your post that I'll need some sort of adapter board, could someone point me in the right direction?Big bronze rim wrote:If you do not use the adapter board you will need a 3 wire Bosch PWM idle control valve board available through Glen’s Garage
This thread has been pure gold, it's taught me TONS about megasquirt. I can't thank you enough for this vital resource
DIYAutotune sells Ryan Nimick's (goathumper on most forums) adapter board.
For the two wire valve you could do the mods outlined in the Megamanual which include upgrading one of the transistors to drive the valve directly. The other option would be to use a 535i 3 wire valve and use the GG board.Xenocide wrote:Sorry if I'm just going blind, but I can't find these adapter boards anywhere, I'm planning on using my stock 2 wire idle air control valve from my m20b27. Is this possible? I assume from your post that I'll need some sort of adapter board, could someone point me in the right direction?Big bronze rim wrote:If you do not use the adapter board you will need a 3 wire Bosch PWM idle control valve board available through Glen’s Garage
Last edited by Brad D. on Jul 11, 2009 11:47 PM, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks, I must have read that whole assembly manual at least 5 times and still didn't manage to pick up on that little blue box 
Thanks for bearing with me, and thanks again for this very well organized resource.
if anyone else stumbles across this, here's a link to how to wire the IAC
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/IAC.htm#fidle
My ECU is the 35 pin, I've got a donor ECU all prepped with pigtail wires already soldered on. That board must be a godsend for 55 pin users.
I'm thinking I'll do a compromise between what goathumper did and what megasquirt wants you to do: I'm planning on using the DB-37 connector, testing w/ megastim, then getting an opposite gender DB-37 and soldering my 35 pin ECU pigtail wires on to it
I've been carefully reading and digesting information posted here and goathumper's tutorial here
Hopefully I'll be ordering from DIYautotune.com next week sometime. And of course I'll document the process and post pics
with any luck at all, in about a week or two I'll be searching for and asking for default tuning configs for the b27
edit: fixed url formating
Thanks for bearing with me, and thanks again for this very well organized resource.
if anyone else stumbles across this, here's a link to how to wire the IAC
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/IAC.htm#fidle
My ECU is the 35 pin, I've got a donor ECU all prepped with pigtail wires already soldered on. That board must be a godsend for 55 pin users.
I'm thinking I'll do a compromise between what goathumper did and what megasquirt wants you to do: I'm planning on using the DB-37 connector, testing w/ megastim, then getting an opposite gender DB-37 and soldering my 35 pin ECU pigtail wires on to it
I've been carefully reading and digesting information posted here and goathumper's tutorial here
Hopefully I'll be ordering from DIYautotune.com next week sometime. And of course I'll document the process and post pics
with any luck at all, in about a week or two I'll be searching for and asking for default tuning configs for the b27
edit: fixed url formating
Just got my MS back! plugged it into my car for a quick startup and I have RPM range!! Now I need to bring my laptop and do some data logging.I took the car out for a spin finally! The car has some real light bucking issues at lower RPM on takeoff, otherwise seems good for getting the bugs worked out. My laptop decided to have a dead battery (of course) so I have that on the charger for tonight. WB numbers were between 12-14 I didn't pay too close attention (or datalog) as I was just putt-putting around the block. RPM is high at about 1500 rpm, but everything seems to be doing what it is supposed to be doing.
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Lee in Ottawa
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
So I fixed my TPS problem, and found out my voltage proplem.
When my wideband (which I spliced into the factory harness as per goat thumpers instructions) is plugged in megatune shows 3.9 volts. When I unplug it it goes to 12v.
Do I have a wire crossed? Should I just be connecting it straight to the main relay?
When my wideband (which I spliced into the factory harness as per goat thumpers instructions) is plugged in megatune shows 3.9 volts. When I unplug it it goes to 12v.
Do I have a wire crossed? Should I just be connecting it straight to the main relay?
well, I got the car all going, problem is, I got myself into a hurry and ran over my laptop's power inverter 
. so now the laptop's battery is dead and I am now waiting on a replacement. BOOOO. The good thing is I got the exhaust all done (need to post pics now) all 3" mandrel bent. yeah! The car runs and drives, but I try to not to drive it as it has a low rpm bucking issue that needs to be ironed out. It will drive well under load like second gear, but first gear and idling down the road at a steady state will set the car bucking. I dare not build boost yet, I have not attempted to at this point. boy I can't wait until I get this car worked out. I have saved datastream, but cannot access it since the laptop battery is dead! 
edit: back in business! got the laptop up and running, now I need to figure out how to post the files.
. so now the laptop's battery is dead and I am now waiting on a replacement. BOOOO. The good thing is I got the exhaust all done (need to post pics now) all 3" mandrel bent. yeah! The car runs and drives, but I try to not to drive it as it has a low rpm bucking issue that needs to be ironed out. It will drive well under load like second gear, but first gear and idling down the road at a steady state will set the car bucking. I dare not build boost yet, I have not attempted to at this point. boy I can't wait until I get this car worked out. I have saved datastream, but cannot access it since the laptop battery is dead! edit: back in business! got the laptop up and running, now I need to figure out how to post the files.
this is just slightly holding the throttle above idle and doing nothing more. It will rev up fine, but if you try to hold a position with the throttle, it will start breaking up. no backfires or anything though. I will start looking into other things myself, but want to see if anything is sticking out like a sore thumb to the veterans. 
THANKS!
THANKS!
Not enough info, need accel. enrichment, AFR, timing. I bet the timing is jumping all over.
RussC
RussC
alijonny wrote:this is just slightly holding the throttle above idle and doing nothing more. It will rev up fine, but if you try to hold a position with the throttle, it will start breaking up. no backfires or anything though. I will start looking into other things myself, but want to see if anything is sticking out like a sore thumb to the veterans.
THANKS!