MyE28.com

ElGuappo wrote:Thanks Chris.
Does this unit screw out?
There are no bolts/screws visible when I remove the metal cover on the trunk floor.
RealOEM lists the same sender for the normal US and the euro 100l tank (with the conventional pump/sender setup tha tbolts in), Guess that means its just wider.
Mine is crenelated on the top rip too.
thanks

It twists counter-clockwise. Just an 1/8 turn or so. Remove the sender, then use a screwdriver between the studs to rotate it.

1st 5er wrote: Will the 255 pump supply sufficient flow for the S38 variants under continued load?

If you derate the pump by 1/3 of its flow (suggested for road racing conditions) it will support over 350 bhp.

1st 5er wrote: If you can get the parts together, I can supply the cores and pumps, for two units.
I'll eventually need three, but two will work for now.

I have some parts coming in the mail which should arrive this week or early next, including a used fp carrier (I've been calling it a carrier, is that correct). Once those are in, we can find a good weekend and get them put together. Also, I might actually get to drive my car down since its up and running. More importantly, I need to get some trunk and hood emblems so it doesn't feel so naked.

I'm bumping this thread because at some point I want to do this and am hoping it's been made easier with time and others doing it...

Define "easier".

The housing mod hasn't changed, but again, I can verify it's functionality as reliable.
I'm running this set-up in 4 vehicles and have had only one issue,
and that was a failure to completely tighten a hose clamp on one of the connections.
Thank God that error was in-tank. Tightening the clamp solved the problem and I was right back on the road.

All the above seems so much more complicated than it needs to be. Either that, or I'm missing something.

Here's my original setup. Total depth is 22.5cm.


Here's my OE hanger and my new Walbro 340 pump at about the length it needs to be. Note the outlet from the Walbro fits inside the OE outlet pipe.


The stock rubber reducer is too long by about 1cm. I don't see why I can't just cut it and use hose clamps like this and call it a day?


I realize I'll need to secure the pump to the carrier, but why did the OP need to do all the fabrication when this appears it will work fine?

I don't doubt that you can make that setup work. I approached the problem the way I did primarily because I enjoy tinkering. It's definitely not the easiest solution.

That looks simple enough Charlie.
I'll have to give that a try next time with the TRE-340's we are using.

There's still a hose reduction that has to be dealt with when you remove the outside pump.
That can be handled by some kind of reducer, which I've used in one of my applications, whereas OP's setup takes care of it at the housing and now only one size fuel hose is required throughout the system.

I think that'll do it.

Now need to run to Ace to get something to reduce the line into the filter.

For reducing from tank line to filter: How hackey/awful would it be if I just wrapped the inlet nipple of the filter with f4 or electrical tape to make its diameter larger?

Or, are nylon couplings ok with fuel?

Best I could find at Ace was this Nylon 1/2x3/8" ID reducer with barbs. Seems like it will work fine.



The hose it's connected to will go to the inlet on the filter. Then the big side will go to the big line that comes out of the tank. This way I can leave the filter in place exactly as it is and simply remove the old pump.

cek wrote:

I think that'll do it.

Now need to run to Ace to get something to reduce the line into the filter.

I do not recommend you leave the plastic zip ties in there as a long term fix. Either metal hose clamps or metal lace wire would be the way to go.

-Dick

craigb93 wrote:I do not recommend you leave the plastic zip ties in there as a long term fix. Either metal hose clamps or metal lace wire would be the way to go.

Trying to find some hose clamps that are smaller; most people indicate hose clams won't let it fit through the opening.

Thanks.

cek wrote:

craigb93 wrote:I do not recommend you leave the plastic zip ties in there as a long term fix. Either metal hose clamps or metal lace wire would be the way to go.

Trying to find some hose clamps that are smaller; most people indicate hose clams won't let it fit through the opening.

Thanks.

Try these.

waynet1 wrote: Try these.

I guess I have a date at Lowes tomorrow. Thanks!

No time to go to Lowes today and no time to wrench. So I just ordered these on Amazon. I figure that over time I'll figure out good uses for the other 98 that will come in the package.

CEK, I like the look of your walbro set up. I wish I hadn't just received my new bosch inline pump from amazon. Just wondering, the "stock" rubber reducer you cut down to hook up your walbro, was that the original rubber that came out of the tank or did you get it from the dealer? Also I wonder if nylon is ok with gas? Just wondering. Looks great

The rubber reducer was on the original OE pump.

It's cek, not CEK. Sheesh. That's like people who call me Chuck. I tell them "you can call me Chuck. Once."

Oh sorry about that Chu...... I mean cek

maybeillbuyit wrote:Oh sorry about that Chu...... I mean cek

Charlie, take a look mid-way through this thread (http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=98095), for your answer to why we don't used the stock reducer.

Ah, well shit. The money quote:

Kyle in NO wrote:The stock rubber "hose" that connects the pump to the pickup WILL rupture when using a 255lph pump. AMHIK. The clamps will just speed the process along.

Never braised before. Guess I get to learn a new skill.

I used silver solder and it holds fine.

I got to thinking...

What if the smaller end of the original rubber reducer fit inside a 13mm fuel hose?


Like this:


I'd have the strength of real fuel hose, without having to resort to metal fabrication. Figured I'd give it a try. Used Oetiker clamps:


Feels super-stout. Thoughts?

Got the old pump out and the reducer to the filter done.



Sealed up the pump wires with F4 tape and tucked them away.

Now gotta go ship stuff to dub-nub and do some Honey-Doos and then I'll drop the in-tank pump in and see how it works...

Just like everyone else who's done this, I had to discover by myself that it's a REALLY tight fit and wrapping the pump with rubber just won't work. I'm not even sure why people try; I guessed the idea was to make the pump quieter.

Any-who, I slimmed it all up by using a single tie and one piece of rubber jammed in between the pump and the return tube to make it more straight and the metal zip tie even tighter.




Just got back from a test drive and it appears to be working great. I think my adjustable FPR dial shows a much more stable pressure when I blip the throttle.

Hope my trials & tribulations with this help others. If it falls apart or something you know I'll add to this thread...

I like those ties. I need to get some. Is the nylon coupling you got rated for fuel? I used brass NPT fittings on the B7. Had to use the 5/16 harb to NPT, a coupler and an NPT to 3/8 barb. That was after discovering that having a Menards nearby would have been more useful than three different specialty hose and fitting stores.

wkohler wrote:I like those ties. I need to get some.

Note they are hard to get tight. I had to get them as tight as I could by pulling with pliers and then use the rubber to expand the whole thing to make 'em really tight.

Is the nylon coupling you got rated for fuel?

Probably not.

I found this post really interesting , looks like I will be going the walbro route as I just installed a new bosch inline pump and found the intank unit that I thought was working was not Very poor timing on my part, at least I THINK I know what I'll do next. I just came across this: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15946/10002/-1?CT=999 I'm sure there are other options out there.

Would a swagged copper tube that could be braised on work?