MyE28.com

M30b32 and b34 have forged factory rods. There's a gentleman on this forum running 700+ chp on stock rods with forged pistons. Id say tock rods are ok to 600 whp. e34biturbo has a m30 pushing 600 whp IIRC.

On a side note, I love your build! I'm looking into getting a 633csi soon, if my wallet permits.

Saw you were rebuilding your rear sub-frame, but you may be beyond that at this point. Ireland Engineering makes a really nice camber, toe adjustment kit that welds onto the rear sub-frame. Really improves handling. bbaxter

e34lover wrote:On a side note, I love your build! I'm looking into getting a 633csi soon, if my wallet permits.

Thanks man! that is encouraging! I was starting to think that nobody was looking at this thread. I LOVE the E24, my father had a 635 csi M back in Munich.

bbaxter wrote:Saw you were rebuilding your rear sub-frame, but you may be beyond that at this point. Ireland Engineering makes a really nice camber, toe adjustment kit that welds onto the rear sub-frame. Really improves handling. bbaxter

Yea I did see that after I had the subframe "finished", I will be considering that as a mod for the second build cycle.

I kind of have this infatuation with anti-lag, can it be used safely on an m30, or do rocker arms start to shatter? I do have the heavy-duty rockers from IE for this build.

Just put a bangbang injector in ahead of the turbo. That should take care of any lag issues

bangbang is rough on the rockers BUT wtf are u doing with bangbang and trying to keep reliability in mind.
i've used it. it's fine. rockers won't just shatter. just keep the rockers tight and keep the abuse at a minimum.

Shadow wrote:bangbang is rough on the rockers BUT wtf are u doing with bangbang and trying to keep reliability in mind.
i've used it. it's fine. rockers won't just shatter. just keep the rockers tight and keep the abuse at a minimum.

On the note of rockers, the HD rockers from Ireland are noticeably thicker than stock. Has anyone had an issue with them breaking or am I overcomplicating this again? I was at the engine shop again today, we are moving forward with the machining of the block and installation of the new pistons. The builder strongly recommended that we go with ARP head studs. Are the studs on the m20 the same as the m30?

Ireland recommended zddp additive to me for breakin on the h/d rockers. Which i did.I can't say it helped,but, I don't think it hurt.

marc79euro645 wrote:Ireland recommended zddp additive to me for breakin on the h/d rockers. Which i did.I can't say it helped,but, I don't think it hurt.

And you have had no issues with the HD rockers I take it? I heard a rumor about them breaking.

No problems with the IE hd's. I had broken 2 stockers previously, that's when I upgraded. I don't cane the car that hard anymore. I think the lifters shifted back against the light springs and floated out of position. I've seen others lock the rocker position on the shaft with lock collars and set screws for high rpm safety. Maybe it's my tune, or setup, but, I rarely rev over 6200.

marc79euro645 wrote:No problems with the IE hd's. I had broken 2 stockers previously, that's when I upgraded. I don't cane the car that hard anymore. I think the lifters shifted back against the light springs and floated out of position. I've seen others lock the rocker position on the shaft with lock collars and set screws for high rpm safety. Maybe it's my tune, or setup, but, I rarely rev over 6200.

That is good to know, I did get the lock collars when I ordered the HD rockers

is your pressure plate a sach 765? i would use that than any other oem Pressure plate

looking forward to your build as im doing the same.

but unfortunetly my build is on Bimmerforums

ill be tuned in eating popcorn in the empty auditorium sike i kid

e38740imd wrote:is your pressure plate a sach 765? i would use that than any other oem Pressure plate

looking forward to your build as im doing the same.

but unfortunetly my build is on Bimmerforums

ill be tuned in eating popcorn in the empty auditorium sike i kid

LOL thanks for the encouragement!

I am unsure of the pressure plate, I purchased it based on dimensions, perhaps not the smartest idea.


The block is supposed to get machined this week........


The head was being assembled last I was at the shop.
Note: I did correct the builder on the use of the lock collars and shims as I had failed to provide the documentation.




And I believe the gearbox we now have is a Getrag 265 as it has a detachable bellhousing.



And there is one experimental idea that I am working on, that I am withholding details on until I am confident it will work, as I have seen two other threads where the OP posted about similar plans and then flamed out.

here is a pic of the chassis as it sits.

What a great project. Thank you for sharing.

Thank you for the compliment, it really does help to have positive feedback from the community!

Alright, so I have gotten a bit farther and feel that it may be best if I disclose my experiment, as to better draw on the community for any guidance you guys may have to offer.

The disclaimer here is that this is experimental and may not work, as I had mentioned others have flamed out while trying to do this. The second caveat is that this experiment will add potentially significant build time so please be patient as I want to get this right.

The back story is that I have been enamored with the Lancia Delta group B car since I knew of it's existence. Specifically the twincharged engine.

here is where we are at:

CNC cut intake flange.
I can provide these to anyone interested PM me.


The head will be ported to match


All new bearings and seals for the Eaton m90






Head with the correct lock collar setup


Blower body on the top plate for the custom manifold


The nightmare needle bearings...


Rotor test fit

The eaton is nearly completely back together, and let me say this was a huge pain to do, for anyone else check and double check the drive gear alignment before pressing the second gear on. I had to press the damn rotor pack apart 4 times before getting everything to line up and spin with minimal effort, a good way to do this is to install the drive gear with the three pins prior to installing the slave gear. First press both rotors into the front bearing plate, install the cartridge in the body seating it fully into the needle bearings then install the second gear. Seating it into the needle bearings will allow everything to line up as it should then tap the second gear to the point where it partially meshes with the drive gear. Once you are at this point try spinning the blower to ensure that it is not jammed up. In my experience with this even a relatively small amount of misalignment on the gear caused the rotors to bind. Just go slow and keep checking that the assembly rotates freely. Once you are satisfied then take it to a press and fully seat the gear. I found that a hammer should only be used to initially position the secondary gear and when not using the press it walked on me resulting in rotor bind.

The blower is 99% just have to install the bypass valve.




I ported the head today to match the new flange.

I am kind of surprised that nobody has any input on this idea.

So the damn supercharger had to come apart again. the tolerances are so tight. It spun freely until I torqued it down then jammed up, pressed the rotors down ~ .01" and now spins freely torqued.... God I'm dumb sometimes.

Looks great, interested to see your intake!