MyE28.com

Have you seen this yet?
https://youtu.be/3XEp3HnbFZ8?si=_qYSAgN-yKJROlW_

Hello, yes, I've already looked at it.

Unfortunately it doesn't help with my problem at the moment.

If I set the trigger with fixed timing to 10 from flashes and 20 from control, I have to set the gun to 30 so that it is back to TDC. I was also down with the dwell time and thought that the coil was discharging itself.


But it wasn't. It can't be the time lamp, I tried 3 of them.

I think there's something to do with the settings or I don't understand the system.

With 10 degrees fixed timing I can turn it up to 3500 and it holds the 10 degrees nicely. He just doesn't like the control.

Are you using multiple ignition tables? Is table switching turned on?

No, just an ignition table. He also does it at the exact timing

lummpy69 wrote: Dec 12, 2023 11:58 AM Thank you for your participation.

I'll take this to heart and make it a little fatter as soon as spring comes.

I am a beginner and completely new to the field. I'm glad to have gotten this far.

Happy to help.
We all start somewhere, I learned to tune by myself on my E30 and have done three different setups now across two cars.

Better to take it conservative until you get the hang of it. I learned on an N/A engine, and then with 4psi wastegate springs for example.

Hello, there is some news.

I installed a camshaft sensor.

Because my opening times for the injectors were too low. Before they were at 1.9 ms and now we are at 3 ms when idle. So I got an even better idle.

Now I wanted to set closed loop. I just can't get it to work with you.

As soon as the load arrives it starts to swing and God knows.

I've also read certain instructions but nothing leads to success.

Now I pinned my hopes on the forum.


https://share-your-photo.com/efd0d61c04

Watch these videos and perform the ignition and idle valve sweep tuning. This should get you going, but I'm not a fan of the Bosch 3 wire IAC working with closed loop.

https://youtu.be/5odey_8U3OM?si=CPX-8B9SPQ7b72CW

For a M30b35, 12:1 under boost is perfect. any richer you sacrafice HP, any leaner, detonation.

From above, I ran MS in my E28 with MS and a M30b35. Max boost on 91, 10-11psi with Dinan's AtA IC. TCD's WtA set up gets you to a full BAR. To get the full BAR, you need his turbo and exhaust manifold. That the only way to get the exhaust flow restrictions out, and get faster cleaner boost with his T04E sized properly.

RussC

Panici wrote: Dec 06, 2023 10:11 AM

lummpy69 wrote: Nov 12, 2023 5:17 AMAt full boost I have an AFR of 12.3 and I think that's not bad.

To me this is WAY too lean under boost.
If you have an uneven injector or a bad tank of gas, there is no room for error and you'll melt a cylinder.


Two points of data:
--On my turbo miata (for which I have a spare engine) I run high 11s (11.5-11.9) at 10psi.

--On my M52B28 E30, I run 11.5 just getting into boost, down to 11.0 at 160kpa.



Extra fuel should help cool things down and prevent detonation.

That is a f'g great YT channel for E28 MS and tuning. One of the best Ive seen.

RussC

Tiit wrote: Dec 13, 2023 7:55 PM Have you seen this yet?
https://youtu.be/3XEp3HnbFZ8?si=_qYSAgN-yKJROlW_

russc wrote: Feb 26, 2024 6:27 PM For a M30b35, 12:1 under boost is perfect. any richer you sacrifice HP, any leaner, detonation.

I prefer safety over max power for my cars, but everyone is different.
Also since OP is a beginner it's better to err on the side of caution.

As I said, if you have bad fuel or a weak injector then you are taking a risk targeting 12:1 under full boost.
That will run the cyl leaner then 12:1 and detonate as you mentioned.

Perhaps if you have knock detection you could pull timing and get away with it.

Edit:
The video link you posted shows him targeting 11.5:1 in the 7psi range...