rodpaine wrote:...the better method is to use the EZcarlift, which is very portable and works in my garage, which is probably smaller than yours. Two and a half minutes to full height lifting time, with a good quality 1/2-inch drill motor.
FWIW,
-Rod
Rod,
I've always liked that set-up except for the cross-members.
Doesn't that create challenges when removing exhaust pieces, driveshafts, trannies etc.?
If yes, how do you deal with it?
1st 5er wrote:Rod,
I've always liked that set-up except for the cross-members.
Doesn't that create challenges when removing exhaust pieces, driveshafts, trannies etc.?
If yes, how do you deal with it?
As I noted in my report on this lift shown on my web site, only the cross brace that has the drive shaft that drives the screw thread for the opposite lifting platform has to remain, of course. Once you have the lift started, with some weight on it, you can remove the other cross brace and it works fine. The lift remains fully stable. You would position the lift so that the cross brace you want to remove is where you want to work, such as replacing the driveshaft, which I've done on another vehicle, plus on my 4400 lb Chevy 4x4 pickup when I replaced the muffler, several years ago. This lift is a great tool, having now had it for 3 years and several dozen different vehicles up on it, most of them E28s.
-Rod
1st 5er wrote:Rod,
I've always liked that set-up except for the cross-members.
Doesn't that create challenges when removing exhaust pieces, driveshafts, trannies etc.?
If yes, how do you deal with it?
As I noted in my report on this lift shown on my web site, only the cross brace that has the drive shaft that drives the screw thread for the opposite lifting platform has to remain, of course. Once you have the lift started, with some weight on it, you can remove the other cross brace and it works fine. The lift remains fully stable. You would position the lift so that the cross brace you want to remove is where you want to work, such as replacing the driveshaft, which I've done on another vehicle, plus on my 4400 lb Chevy 4x4 pickup when I replaced the muffler, several years ago. This lift is a great tool, having now had it for 3 years and several dozen different vehicles up on it, most of them E28s.
-Rod
I would be nervous about that unit because it doesn't seem to be able to support any side-loads. If something were to fall on the car from the side, or if someone leans on the car too hard, it looks like it would just fold over.
tsmall07 wrote:I would be nervous about that unit because it doesn't seem to be able to support any side-loads. If something were to fall on the car from the side, or if someone leans on the car too hard, it looks like it would just fold over.
What do you base that opinion on? Do you own and use an EZcarlift? Have you actually pushed on a vehicle while it is up in the air, on an EZcarlift? I have and there is no stability problems. You must think I am stupid to have not checked this possibility out fully, before I ever decided to get under mine, let alone suggest it for purchase. I've even pushed my car around on it with the wheels installed, to reposition it, without signs of instability. Keep your untested product opinions to yourself, please. I really don't like to rant at anyone here, but I am tired of seeing so many obtuse product opinions growing in number on this forum, from people who are totally unqualified to make such statements.
-Rod
First thing: Stop and think about what you are doing. I've done about all the stupid things you can imagine, and had some close calls, but it's really not worth it. Let's just say I've learned from my mistakes. (Do you think 3/4 inch plywood is a stable jacking surface? Not always, especially on a slope.)
My recommendations fwiw:
Use ramps whenever possible. I like the 2x12 ramps for driveline work.
Shouldn't have to say this, but never ever trust a jack to hold the car up.
Minimum 4 ton stand with a 4 point base and a heavy duty pin, no ratchets. Bigger is better, up to the height limit of your jack. Don't try to force it. 2 ton stands may technically be ok for the job but they are simply a waste of money under anything but perfect conditions.
Always have a back-up plan. Use rims under the rotors. Have extra stands in position , leave the jack and/or ramps in place. Any one or all of the above is better than trusting a pair of stands by themselves.
Many people don't think about this but maintain your jack. Watch for leaks. Buy some jack oil and keep it topped off. You'd be amazed how this helps an all or nothing jack when lowering.
You don't have to cheap out to save money. I bought my 4 ton pin stands at harbor freight and they are rock solid and easy to use.
If you can afford it, get a lift. You still have to think about want you are doing though. Especially if you own a 280Z. (don't ask, it wasn't pretty.)
BTW, M5board.com has a thread regarding a group buy for the MaxJax. They are hoping to get enough interest to get a $1500 price.
tsmall07 wrote:I would be nervous about that unit because it doesn't seem to be able to support any side-loads. If something were to fall on the car from the side, or if someone leans on the car too hard, it looks like it would just fold over.
What do you base that opinion on? Do you own and use an EZcarlift? Have you actually pushed on a vehicle while it is up in the air, on an EZcarlift? I have and there is no stability problems. You must think I am stupid to have not checked this possibility out fully, before I ever decided to get under mine, let alone suggest it for purchase. I've even pushed my car around on it with the wheels installed, to reposition it, without signs of instability. Keep your untested product opinions to yourself, please. I really don't like to rant at anyone here, but I am tired of seeing so many obtuse product opinions growing in number on this forum, from people who are totally unqualified to make such statements.
-Rod
I'm not unqualified to make such a statement. You don't know anything about me or my education. I didn't say that it can't handle side loads and I didn't say anything about your intelligence. I said that it LOOKS LIKE it would be weaker in that direction. Clearly I have not used that item since I clearly stated that I'm basing my concerns on looks. If I'm wrong and it can handle getting hit by a truck on the side without falling over, that's great. You could have simply said that it can handle side loads fine without blowing up at me. I really don't think my comment was that unreasonable. I'm sorry if I don't take the advice of others blindly and think through the mechanics myself.
Alfonso Bedoya wrote:
tsmall07 wrote:
Alfonso Bedoya wrote:I have a smooth as silk, bare and clean cement car port
That sucks. You should really pour concrete in there. I wouldn't want to lift my car in the air in a space with nothing but white powder for a floor!
A larger style regular floor jack and a piece of 2X10 works fine. You want a 2-3 ton jack with a large lifting pad. 5x5" or larger is best. Look far a jack similar to this one in design and size. (for scaling purposes the notches in the pad on this jack are 4" wide)
I use a piece of 2X10 like in this model by Arcan cut to length to fit from under the skid plate to near the front of the transmission. The board is placed on top of the jack and the powertrain jacked and lowered as needed. There is a balance point under the assembly that is usually a little behind the center of the differential. I like the weight biased to the rear just a little so the rear of the powertrain drops first. I lower the rear until I am clear of the oil filter adapter and fuel pump (there are possible interference issues in this area be sure to watch and pry motor away from rear cross member if needed. On a late model, you should remove the centerpiece of metal engine body seal retainer from this area as it tends to get caught and bent. Once I am clear of the rear cross member I simply lift a little at the back (usually 1 handed while laying under 1 side of the engine providing side to side balance and watching for things that might catch) to get the front trans cross member free of the mounts and then we lower it down. WE, this is a 2 person job, one for the jack operation and 1 to be under the side eyeballing and manipulating things for a smooth removal. The main concern is to make sure to get the balance close and centered side to side and to ensure the power pack does not fall sideways during lowering, this is the reason that if you are to use a regular floor jack you need one with a large lifting pad. (another good thing about large lift pads is that the readily accept a 2x4 on top of them for stable general lifting without marring the car).
With a jack like the one in the photo, once the engine is all the way down the board will usually rest just forward of the handle and the flat there makes a pretty stable base. The powerpack can now be moved easily around the shop on the jack.
Last edited by Vinada on Oct 13, 2018 10:56 AM, edited 1 time in total.
I'll cast another vote for the ESCO stands. I've used lots of jack stands and various (sometimes dangerous) methods of supporting vehicles and nothing I've ever used has ever been as solid. I got the 10498s a few years ago for a killer deal, I think around $130 shipped for a set of four, and if they were still that cheap I'd buy a second set in a minute. They seem to have gotten a lot more expensive but if you're serious about supporting a car safely with a set of stands that will last forever, I don't think you will find a better product.
