Dieselboost's 524compoundTD
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- Posts: 71
- Joined: Apr 17, 2009 11:21 PM
- Location: Germany
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Ok.... again something went wrong...
water temperature is rising too much and i cant get it cool....
water pressure is still good... measured that it is about 1bar with 100c temperature...
this problem started today after one 1.2bar boost quick acceleration...
first temperature cooled normally... but after minutes with normal driving it started to rise... even that i tried to drive about 80km/h for cooling...
there is only one reason that i was warned about....
those hard studs... and thermal expansion of aluminum and iron...
it seems that my studs where loosened and gasket started to leak...
water temperature is rising too much and i cant get it cool....
water pressure is still good... measured that it is about 1bar with 100c temperature...
this problem started today after one 1.2bar boost quick acceleration...
first temperature cooled normally... but after minutes with normal driving it started to rise... even that i tried to drive about 80km/h for cooling...
there is only one reason that i was warned about....
those hard studs... and thermal expansion of aluminum and iron...
it seems that my studs where loosened and gasket started to leak...
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Hi,
did you use stainless steel studs?
If yes they have a thermal expansion rate of ~ 17 - 18 * 10^-6 °C-1 instead of 12 - 13 * 10^-6 °C ^-1, which could cause your problem.
But even then the tension would rise with increasing temperature, because the aluminuim has a rate of ~ 23 * 10^-6 °C ^-1 and it is verly unlikely that the studs will getting hotter than the cylinderhead.
If you still have the old metal seal cap on your water expansion tank, you will never see much higher pressures than 1,0 bar, because the cap opens very early. Did you loose coolant?
I would assume that you get exhaust gases in the cooling system, which somehow interrups the proper cooling flow and therefore it did not cool down normaly.
As i write earlier, i will change my coolant system significant and i would suggest to block the small hose from the cylinder head to the thermostat valve on the injection pump to the return line of the heating circle. First of all, the water from there will not flow through the cooler and second the flow will increase with higher RPM, due to the increased pressure loss of the cooler and the main thermostat valve.
I hope that there is no issue with headgasket and wish good luck by determinating the root cause of your issue.
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
did you use stainless steel studs?
If yes they have a thermal expansion rate of ~ 17 - 18 * 10^-6 °C-1 instead of 12 - 13 * 10^-6 °C ^-1, which could cause your problem.
But even then the tension would rise with increasing temperature, because the aluminuim has a rate of ~ 23 * 10^-6 °C ^-1 and it is verly unlikely that the studs will getting hotter than the cylinderhead.
If you still have the old metal seal cap on your water expansion tank, you will never see much higher pressures than 1,0 bar, because the cap opens very early. Did you loose coolant?
I would assume that you get exhaust gases in the cooling system, which somehow interrups the proper cooling flow and therefore it did not cool down normaly.
As i write earlier, i will change my coolant system significant and i would suggest to block the small hose from the cylinder head to the thermostat valve on the injection pump to the return line of the heating circle. First of all, the water from there will not flow through the cooler and second the flow will increase with higher RPM, due to the increased pressure loss of the cooler and the main thermostat valve.
I hope that there is no issue with headgasket and wish good luck by determinating the root cause of your issue.
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
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Hi...
I has that newer plastic cap in my expansion tank
that cold start thermosthat thing is terminated
studs are regular 12.9 12mm studs not stainless steel
i re torqued those now with 150nm...
i tested my engine today with boost and about 20km driving...
that overflow hose is now out of bonnet... that i can see if its making over pressure or spraying water out of coolant system...
but now everything is fine...
i deleted my thermosthat and engine temperature is staying in about 70-80c in normal driving...
one thing is that my block is not machined before mls gasket.... and that may be the reason for leakage...
and i will test my engine for co2 testing fluid next week... when we got it back from one guy...
I has that newer plastic cap in my expansion tank
that cold start thermosthat thing is terminated
studs are regular 12.9 12mm studs not stainless steel
i re torqued those now with 150nm...
i tested my engine today with boost and about 20km driving...
that overflow hose is now out of bonnet... that i can see if its making over pressure or spraying water out of coolant system...
but now everything is fine...
i deleted my thermosthat and engine temperature is staying in about 70-80c in normal driving...
one thing is that my block is not machined before mls gasket.... and that may be the reason for leakage...
and i will test my engine for co2 testing fluid next week... when we got it back from one guy...
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Sorry... Co test with that tester fluid which changes color if Co is detected...
but...
now my car works fine what comes with cooling system etc...
i foud that that little hose from expansion tank to radiator was blocked by debris... now it works again... not heat problems
my opinion is that plastic cap works better than that old metal version
now i must do some adjustments for my engine when i have time to do that...
but...
now my car works fine what comes with cooling system etc...
i foud that that little hose from expansion tank to radiator was blocked by debris... now it works again... not heat problems
my opinion is that plastic cap works better than that old metal version
now i must do some adjustments for my engine when i have time to do that...
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ok... now we are getting something...
now cooling is working very well...
exhaust temperature with full acceleration is below 600c
with 1.7bar boost...
and it really moves quite fast... but not enough for me...
i adjusted advance to 0.85mm btdc from 1mm btdc (accidentally wrong advance) and no low rpm power....
maybe trying for 0.90mm
now turbo is spooling in lower area than before....
next job is changing the lift pump to better model
getting more boost (2.5bar)
and installing small turbo for low RPM...
now cooling is working very well...
exhaust temperature with full acceleration is below 600c
with 1.7bar boost...
and it really moves quite fast... but not enough for me...
i adjusted advance to 0.85mm btdc from 1mm btdc (accidentally wrong advance) and no low rpm power....
maybe trying for 0.90mm
now turbo is spooling in lower area than before....
next job is changing the lift pump to better model
getting more boost (2.5bar)
and installing small turbo for low RPM...
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Hi,
yes i know.
I found a place and a water hose solution for my electrical water pump yesterday and also start the engine for a few seconds (no water filled in). So i hope to get it back on the street this weekend. Besides the water pump i have change to a regrindet camshaft, but stay with the stock turbo, because i wand the 1:1 comparison with the stock and regrinded camshaft.
So as a result i assume to get a car with massive low torque and not bad peak power. I would love to see a comparison of dyno plots between our both engines, yours with big turbo, big boost and i assume big peak power now and my engine with probably a bit more low end torque (later injection, smaller turbo) and regrinded camshaft for ensure high rpm air flow.
I have to drive very carfull the first 1000 km, because of the camshaft, but did you shedule a dyno day allready?
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
P.S.
I would also love to see a video and hear your engine sound with the big turbo. I tried to make a small video with my AAZ to show the multilayer sound of raw diesel engine - sport exhaust buzz and additional jet engine whoosh when the free waste gate (no muffler) start to dump exhaust gases, but failed because my gopro camera did not make good sound records.
Anyhow if wand to look it:
http://s702.photobucket.com/albums/ww24 ... 2012-1.mp4
yes i know.
I found a place and a water hose solution for my electrical water pump yesterday and also start the engine for a few seconds (no water filled in). So i hope to get it back on the street this weekend. Besides the water pump i have change to a regrindet camshaft, but stay with the stock turbo, because i wand the 1:1 comparison with the stock and regrinded camshaft.
So as a result i assume to get a car with massive low torque and not bad peak power. I would love to see a comparison of dyno plots between our both engines, yours with big turbo, big boost and i assume big peak power now and my engine with probably a bit more low end torque (later injection, smaller turbo) and regrinded camshaft for ensure high rpm air flow.
I have to drive very carfull the first 1000 km, because of the camshaft, but did you shedule a dyno day allready?
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
P.S.
I would also love to see a video and hear your engine sound with the big turbo. I tried to make a small video with my AAZ to show the multilayer sound of raw diesel engine - sport exhaust buzz and additional jet engine whoosh when the free waste gate (no muffler) start to dump exhaust gases, but failed because my gopro camera did not make good sound records.
Anyhow if wand to look it:
http://s702.photobucket.com/albums/ww24 ... 2012-1.mp4
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i was at race track... turbo is really too laggy now...
boost
1st gear 0.5bar
2nd gear 1.5bar
3rd gear 1.9bar
4th gear 2.2bar (over 150km/h)
5th gear ? (not yet tested)
but even getting turbo spooling up with 3rd gear in track was hard...
weather was very bad too
just one guy calculated compression rate of my engine with mls
it is very close to 16:1 so need really that 2.5bar or 3bar boost
i was very pleased to my coolant system and exhaust temperatures...
cooland was below 80c and egt below 600c
so do not expect anything furios about in this video
http://youtu.be/VNwrmIOtG5g
boost
1st gear 0.5bar
2nd gear 1.5bar
3rd gear 1.9bar
4th gear 2.2bar (over 150km/h)
5th gear ? (not yet tested)
but even getting turbo spooling up with 3rd gear in track was hard...
weather was very bad too
just one guy calculated compression rate of my engine with mls
it is very close to 16:1 so need really that 2.5bar or 3bar boost
i was very pleased to my coolant system and exhaust temperatures...
cooland was below 80c and egt below 600c
so do not expect anything furios about in this video
http://youtu.be/VNwrmIOtG5g
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- Joined: Apr 17, 2009 11:21 PM
- Location: Germany
Hi,
nice to see and hear your car again. From the video it looks like it would behavior more like a NA than a Turbo and as you would never creep over the point, where the turbo (and engine) really goes on.
1:16 is a really low compression rate in my eyes, why did you reduce it that much, do you just wand to use the car on a race track?
Just for clarify you measure the egt upfront the turbo not afterwards or?
I started my E28 last weekend again and make a first small round (~15 km), but i have installed the additionally temp sensor for the pump on the wrong place (cool side of the cooler not hot side), so i have to work again, before i can finaly get it back into operation.
I was also on the drag race with my Golf last weekend, here is a short video of my best run (15,4s):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35GYWGGH ... el&list=UL
Best Regards
nice to see and hear your car again. From the video it looks like it would behavior more like a NA than a Turbo and as you would never creep over the point, where the turbo (and engine) really goes on.
1:16 is a really low compression rate in my eyes, why did you reduce it that much, do you just wand to use the car on a race track?
Just for clarify you measure the egt upfront the turbo not afterwards or?
I started my E28 last weekend again and make a first small round (~15 km), but i have installed the additionally temp sensor for the pump on the wrong place (cool side of the cooler not hot side), so i have to work again, before i can finaly get it back into operation.
I was also on the drag race with my Golf last weekend, here is a short video of my best run (15,4s):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35GYWGGH ... el&list=UL
Best Regards
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in third gear it kicks quite much but video tricks quite much... but yeah 1.9bar is nothing for this engine...
compression rate is caused by my mls gasket... which is thick
i had no options when i got it... i bought it from my friend...
egt is measured before turbo
i will do new video from airfield when i got new gearbox on it
compression rate is caused by my mls gasket... which is thick
i had no options when i got it... i bought it from my friend...
egt is measured before turbo
i will do new video from airfield when i got new gearbox on it
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Hi,
i did not mean that it looked slow, i just meant that the power increase sounds very linear.
I was very positive suprised when i first drive my aaz with the S2A turbo about the low end torque without much boost, but it is not that spectacular as with the small turbos, until you go for full attack than it is vice versa, but i realy like this behavior.
Just to say it again, i realy appreciate your build thread here so please keep us informed with your great build.
Best Regards
i did not mean that it looked slow, i just meant that the power increase sounds very linear.
I was very positive suprised when i first drive my aaz with the S2A turbo about the low end torque without much boost, but it is not that spectacular as with the small turbos, until you go for full attack than it is vice versa, but i realy like this behavior.
Just to say it again, i realy appreciate your build thread here so please keep us informed with your great build.
Best Regards
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MLS head gasket was ordered 2,0 mm thick and the original three hole gasket is 1,87 mm and two hole version is 1,68 mm.
This gasket has round cylinder hole unlike original that goes under swirl chamber. (this reduces combustion chambers volume)
I don't think your compression ratio is that low unless you have modified pistons or had one hole gasket (1,55mm) originally?
This gasket has round cylinder hole unlike original that goes under swirl chamber. (this reduces combustion chambers volume)
I don't think your compression ratio is that low unless you have modified pistons or had one hole gasket (1,55mm) originally?
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Thanks... this engine was with one hole gasket in stock...vexu524tdic wrote:MLS head gasket was ordered 2,0 mm thick and the original three hole gasket is 1,87 mm and two hole version is 1,68 mm.
This gasket has round cylinder hole unlike original that goes under swirl chamber. (this reduces combustion chambers volume)
I don't think your compression ratio is that low unless you have modified pistons or had one hole gasket (1,55mm) originally?
its from 324td and it had about 200.000km in meter...
+ my cylinder head is modified... so valves can be little bit deeper in head... and ferrea stainless valves have cup in middle of valve...
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Hi,
now i am finally back on the road again, i could finished the first 250 km this weekend and beside serveral smaller issues it runs good. I have not flored it so far, but increase redline from 3000 rpm to 4000 rpm after the first 150 km and now running 1,0 bar instead of 0,8 bar.
The most annoying fact is that the rear shaft sealing ring of the gearbox leaks oil, i assume due to the month of standing still during the winter the overhauling.
Also the temperature switch, which activate/deactivate the advance timing is always on and i think this was also befor the headgasket failure and could be has have its part on the defect.
The eletric water pumps runs good so far, but i could achive 80°C or 85°C coolant temperature with a steady running pump, because even with 6 V the delivery volumen is so big that it suddenly cools down to approximate 75°C after the pumps starts to run steady. Due to this i drive with 75°C as setpoint temperature and so far i could not see any needle movement, after it once climbed to 75°C coolant temperature. Anoying is that the fan output did not work, the LED display for the fan output lights up as it should, but the related controller output did not get 12V.
I also get two new front tires, an oil change and aligned the front axis, as the front tires was allways worn on the outer edge.
I will drive another 100 km more or so and than check the valve play again before i will start with the attac mode. At latest it must run properly on the 29.09.2012, becuase than is the latest 1/4 mile drag race in my region and i want to start there with the bimmer.
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
P.S.
I was on 1/8 mile drag race with my golf mk II today, best result was a 9,433s
now i am finally back on the road again, i could finished the first 250 km this weekend and beside serveral smaller issues it runs good. I have not flored it so far, but increase redline from 3000 rpm to 4000 rpm after the first 150 km and now running 1,0 bar instead of 0,8 bar.
The most annoying fact is that the rear shaft sealing ring of the gearbox leaks oil, i assume due to the month of standing still during the winter the overhauling.
Also the temperature switch, which activate/deactivate the advance timing is always on and i think this was also befor the headgasket failure and could be has have its part on the defect.
The eletric water pumps runs good so far, but i could achive 80°C or 85°C coolant temperature with a steady running pump, because even with 6 V the delivery volumen is so big that it suddenly cools down to approximate 75°C after the pumps starts to run steady. Due to this i drive with 75°C as setpoint temperature and so far i could not see any needle movement, after it once climbed to 75°C coolant temperature. Anoying is that the fan output did not work, the LED display for the fan output lights up as it should, but the related controller output did not get 12V.
I also get two new front tires, an oil change and aligned the front axis, as the front tires was allways worn on the outer edge.
I will drive another 100 km more or so and than check the valve play again before i will start with the attac mode. At latest it must run properly on the 29.09.2012, becuase than is the latest 1/4 mile drag race in my region and i want to start there with the bimmer.
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
P.S.
I was on 1/8 mile drag race with my golf mk II today, best result was a 9,433s
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