MyE28.com

Here in Bulgaria getrag 260 from e34 520i = 70 to 80Euro tops
And lots of choice.

Good luck finding a new one.

And a question about your valves. Are they aftermarket or just original ones from another car?

You have machined your valves seats and removed 3mm diam. from the intake and from the exhaust holes?

Can i do the same procedure but 1.5 mm and can I keep the original valves? Motor is M51

valves are from ferrea valves... and those are stainless steel ones... and 3mm bigger than stock ones...

valve seats are 2mm bigger than stock ones

seats are grinded quite thin to achieve maximum size of channel

you can port your head quite much with stock seats and valves...

Picture of my m21 valves... http://irc-galleria.net/user/Laskeuma/picture/111998572

DieselBoost wrote:...
you can port your head quite much with stock seats and valves...

Picture of my m21 valves... http://irc-galleria.net/user/Laskeuma/picture/111998572

How much? 1mm ? Can you tell ?

Zubcho wrote:

DieselBoost wrote:...
you can port your head quite much with stock seats and valves...

Picture of my m21 valves... http://irc-galleria.net/user/Laskeuma/picture/111998572

How much? 1mm ? Can you tell ?

never seen m51 cylinder head... so show your cylhead to somebody who makes ported heads... he can tell how much can be grinded with stock valves

My 524 is grounded for a while (waiting for a proper tool for gear box)

but.... there happens a lot in my garage...
It is time to start my turbo lada project...
this lada is my dearest car in my life... although that it is with petrol engine

Here is link for my picture blog of this car
http://www.ladakerho.fi/ladagalleria/th ... by&uid=253

some engine specs

-Block 1700cc lada
-ported cylinderhead with bigger ferrea stainless steel exhaust valves
-custom grinded cam shaft with 295degrees and 13mm lift, angle between cams is 112degrees
-polished stock crank shaft
-h-beam steel connecting rods
-forged pistons
-copper flame ringed cylinder head gasket with stock head bolts
-holset h1c/h1e hybrid turbo
-self made exhaust manifold
-self made intakemanifold with four 45mm throttlebodies
-Kms (van kroonenburg) engine managemetn system with aem broadband lambda system
direct ignition coil
-fuel RE85 ethanol

so this is what im doing with this baby.... body is under construction

power goal is about 350hp

Cool projects man. Love it, i had a samara

More superturbodiesel shit from finland...

st mercedes of my friend

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJXfkwWk ... re=g-all-u

Just found something from my gear box... it seems im driving with it in next weekend

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?p=1063152#1063152

I like the Lada project...

We had one that looked just like yours when I lived in Russia. Jiguli #2 I think is what it technically was. Ours was one of the last to be actually made out of Fiat parts before USSR kicked them out.

I can't believe you can make that much power out of that engine. I think I remember ours being 64hp?

Airbeast wrote:I like the Lada project...

We had one that looked just like yours when I lived in Russia. Jiguli #2 I think is what it technically was. Ours was one of the last to be actually made out of Fiat parts before USSR kicked them out.

I can't believe you can make that much power out of that engine. I think I remember ours being 64hp?

with right parts and knowledge it is quite easy...

in here we has one 1500cc 314bhp racing lada... and it has fully stock cylinderhead...

so i think that i has more my cylinder head flows about 178hp with na test + my engine is 1700cc

fact is that lada engine is not bad at all, cylinder head is only problem...

while im working with our new videos about mercedes dynotests...

it share this vid about ethanol engined bmw beast from finland
this was before of our dyno sessions...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQZ7hEzwAzA

btw accidentally im in that video (that guy with green trousers)


but dynovideos comming soon... and little surprice for all of us

We blowed 490hp from my friends mercedes

here is the video...
http://youtu.be/ELXA1iGjlIY

btw i got new gearbox for my 524 and i got pneumatic cylinders for my biturbo system...

Just dropped some new pics of my car...
new gearbox is in my car and few modification again with my car...

check out!!!

Omgomgomgomgomg!!!

It's alive again!!!

Hi,

nice to hear, i driving my since 2 month or so in a daily manner, but first measuremenst has shown that i lost aproximate 20-30 hp and a lot of torque. The only different is lower compression ratio and hotter cam.

Yesterday i recheckt my camshaft and valve play and found out that the camshaft was not correctly adjusted, so that the cam was much to "late" in regard of the other components. So we will see if this has caused my power loss.

As i wrote earlier, i have installed a electonic water pump without a thermostat valve and after some experience with this arrangement i can clearly state out, that this is rubbish. I have bought a external thermostat from a E28 518i and shedule to intall it in the next weeks.

Where can i see the pics and did you shedule a new date for a dyno run?

Alleslowbuged wrote:Hi,

nice to hear, i driving my since 2 month or so in a daily manner, but first measuremenst has shown that i lost aproximate 20-30 hp and a lot of torque. The only different is lower compression ratio and hotter cam.

Yesterday i recheckt my camshaft and valve play and found out that the camshaft was not correctly adjusted, so that the cam was much to "late" in regard of the other components. So we will see if this has caused my power loss.

As i wrote earlier, i have installed a electonic water pump without a thermostat valve and after some experience with this arrangement i can clearly state out, that this is rubbish. I have bought a external thermostat from a E28 518i and shedule to intall it in the next weeks.

Where can i see the pics and did you shedule a new date for a dyno run?

interesting... my overheating problems where solved when i was driving without thermosthat... im using it again cause winter.... but drilled 3mm holes on it...

cam timing is important... simple... if early compression rate rises... if late it drops... due to valve opening and closing timing

no dyno plans now...

my pics are in eyecandy section http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=57130

Hi,

my cam is readjusted now, but i think i have another issue with the injectors, or at least with one injector. Anyhow, to come back to the thermostat story, overheating was now problem without the thermostat, but the micrcontroller from the electrical water pump was not able to maintain the temperatur. Actual i have put some carton in front of the coller which blocks 60-70% of the coller surface and everthing is running ok. But i will reinstall the mechanical pump and use the elektrical only as additionally pump for high engine load situations.

Therefore i also have to reinstall the thermostat, can you tell me your experience with the Ø3mm holes and how many you have drilled in?

Best regards
Alleslowbuged

Alleslowbuged wrote:Hi,

my cam is readjusted now, but i think i have another issue with the injectors, or at least with one injector. Anyhow, to come back to the thermostat story, overheating was now problem without the thermostat, but the micrcontroller from the electrical water pump was not able to maintain the temperatur. Actual i have put some carton in front of the coller which blocks 60-70% of the coller surface and everthing is running ok. But i will reinstall the mechanical pump and use the elektrical only as additionally pump for high engine load situations.

Therefore i also have to reinstall the thermostat, can you tell me your experience with the Ø3mm holes and how many you have drilled in?

Best regards
Alleslowbuged

i dont have experience yet.... my car is sleeping till to next summer...

but i what i know...

when engine is cold water circulates head to block (thermosthat seals route to radiator and keeps open that route from the head) when engine runs hot and thermosthat opens it seals that route from the head and water starts to flow from the upper radiator hose to radiator.... etc...

without thermosthat cylinder head may overheated without warning...

but no experience about that drilling yet...

next what im trying out is that i will block that (cold circulation channel) and making water run like normal style.... thermosthat to upper hose... (maybe) i will post more when i get more time to think this better...

DieselBoost wrote: without thermosthat cylinder head may overheated without warning...

What do you mean with that, why should the head overheat without warning, when no thermostat is installed?

In my actual setup i have blocked the frontal water port (cylinder head - thermostat casing), to ensure that all water must flow through the uper water hose and therfore through the radiator. As i wrote earlier, i have no thermostat in this setup and try to control the temperatur with the water flow (speed of the electrical water pump). But because this did not work properly at cold ambious temperatures, whichs leads to far to cold engine temps, i have also sheduled to install an external thermostat valve in the upper water hose between the head and the radiator, to ensure that all water have to pass the stock temp sensor in the upper water hose flange, which is used for the temperature gauge in the cockpit.

Unfortunatelly i also have to state out, that my headgasket is blown since yesterday again. I have done a 1/4 mile test run in beginning of November and the micro controler of the pump decides to stop the pump for 10s during lift of, whichs means 10s full pull with 1.6 bar boost without any coolant flow, whichs therefore means massive overheating. After that, it puts out white smoke like a steam train, but after stopping the egine and cool it down for some minutes everthing seems to be ok until yesterday.

I am not sure what to do now, i mean it is clear what to do to fix the head hasket, but i am not sure what to do with the coolant system. For sure, i will reinstall a mechanical water pump and therefore have to reinstall a thermostat, but i am not clear about using the stock thermostat valve or install an external one in upper water hose.

Would be interessting to hear your thinks about that.

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged

P.S.
Here are three pics, whichs shows how i blocked the frontal water port.

we are thinking same thing... blocking that channel like that...

what i was saying... without thermostat and channel unblocked... engine may circulate water in front of engine.... and back of cylinder head get overheated...

that i was saying... but when it is blocked it should work...

im considering to take thermostat case from lada or aluminum version of 90s sn mustang, which is quite nice desing and easy to install... or main reason... i have plenty of those

but i will install second wtemp gauge to back of cylinderhead
so i will see what it makes... just in case...

im so totally broke at this moment that i really cant take risks about engine damage...

next summer i will have new bigger electric lift pump and bigger fuel filter system... + maybe smaller turbine chamber fro my turbo...

but keep going with that blocked system... and try use a bigger
thermostat case.. or double thermostats (this was one idea for massive flowing volume)

use stock water pump... and if something... put smaller water pump wheel...

but i think stock will be good... as my engine where very good in about +35 heat in summer... without thermostat

Hi,

it si funny that you mentioned "using 2 thermostat valves", because this was exactly what i shedule to do, before my headgasket was blown last sunday. I was thinking of using one with 75°C setpoint and one with 80°C setpoint parallel between the upper coolant hose and the radiator, which would mean that up to 75°C i would have normal "short circut" and between 75° and 80°C i would one "short circut" and one "radiator circut" at the same time and above 80°C two "radiator circut".

What i like on this idea is, that even if the 80°C thermostat is slow to react by a sudden power increase, the 75°C thermostat allready will be fully open and so cooling water can eaily access the radiator, while the 80°C is still in the opening phase.

As i say i have allready bought two external thermostat valves, which are normaly used in old BMW with small 4 cylinder engines, but i think they are to small even if i would use two:



The internal diameter of the stock E28 thermostat ist ~Ø38mm (which is quite big), while the internal diamter of the external thermostat ist only ~Ø28 mm (-40%).

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged

That looks almost same in mustang or lada

well... summer 2013 is coming soon...

so here is the list...

-bigger & more powerfull lift pump
-bodykit
-leather seats
-more lowering
-better fuel filtering system
-smaller turbine chamber for turbo
-exhaust till the end... (sidepipe delete)
-better cooling system with double thermosthats
-new audio system...

Where are you getting the MLS headgasket for your m21, I have an M51 that needs a steel head gasket upgrade and trying to find where to get one

also what thickness would you reccomend, slightly thicker than standard, lowering the compression ratio to compensate for the extra quantities of diesel?

no-smoke-no-poke wrote:Where are you getting the MLS headgasket for your m21, I have an M51 that needs a steel head gasket upgrade and trying to find where to get one

Gaskets-To-Go
Cometic