MyE28.com DEV

I had the airbox removed from the e46 last night and noticed the heater valve was right there on the left strut tower, so I thought I'd share some photos to show how it's mounted on that car. Mounting the e46 valve on an e28 and routing the hoses seems to have proven to be a bit of a challenge, and I had been thinking it may work to rig up to a mount to put the valve in a similar location and maybe even use the hoses from the e46. Wouldn't take much to make an improvement on the mounting location on the e28, especially for the eta with it tacked to the firewall down below the brake booster.

I highlighted the two hoses a bit to set them off from the rest of the under-hood grunge. Click the images to open the monster-size versions.

While I agree that the e28 mounting spots for the valve do suck I think that relocating the valve is going to take a lot more work than just fabbing a bracket or just cutting out a section of the firewall and welding a new piece into place.

I have to take a look at mine again since I haven't much time to work on the project, school and work ya' know, but it may be possible to find a spot that is a bit lower down or something.

This is not 100% finished, but functional. Weather is 26 degrees today at 2 PM, I did this install last nite, will finish it maybe tomorrow, when we have 47 degree temps & I'm not so tired & sore from other work. Since this thread didn't have an M30 install, here is one from 88 535is. The sheet metal bracket that the original heater valve attaches to is still on the firewall. It will need to be at the very least bent or modified to make a bit more space, or possibly removed, used as a template to make a new bracket for this valve. i just popped a zip tie on it a minute ago. Only hose mod I had to do, was a letter L shape. I used 11531277887 hose I had left over from my 83 M20. I just cut off the end that had the right angle. Soaked one end in hot water for a few minutes to make it slip onto the valve. I have a metal 3/8" pipe to join the 2 hoses. It will easily sit back another 1/2 inch to inch & lower also, once the old bracket is modified or replaced.

Nice work. I'm putting the one I bought on my blue car. It'll have an S54 so should feel right at home.

anyone still making brackets?

Charlie, I would be in for an m20 bracket. Thanks!

pennybond wrote:Charlie, I would be in for an m20 bracket. Thanks!

So would I. Too bad I'm not making any.

Dang. I guess I'll have to hack my own!

Just saw this thread. My crappy MTC valve appears to be failing and I'm tired of replacing it. So, I'm in for a bracket, too, if you are still making them, Charlie. Thanks!

If you don't mind, I'm adding to this thread instead of making a new one.

Here's an e46 valve installed on an M6 with a sheet metal bracket that you can make in like 30 minutes.

The bracket,



Removed the rubber grommets and tapped the holes with an m6 tap,



Attached the bracket with some short m6 bolts,



For the wiring I simply soldered an existing connector I had handy to the valve and epoxied it in place,



Hose layout. Sharkbite 1" barbed fitting was used to connect 2 pieces of hose together,



Just clears the intake manifold on the M6. It should be a lot more room on the M30,



cheers

demetk wrote:If you don't mind, I'm adding to this thread instead of making a new one.

Here's an e46 valve installed on an M6 with a sheet metal bracket that you can make in like 30 minutes.

Just clears the intake manifold on the M6. It should be a lot more room on the M30,

cheers

Hero.

Quite timely, demetk -- I'm about to do this myself. Where'd you get the Sharkbite fitting(s)?

Nice prices from here: http://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/p ... _id=PXC100.

demetk wrote:Nice prices from here: http://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/p ... _id=PXC100.

Ah, you used a ribbed (as opposed to barbed) coupler. Not what I was thinking of when you said "Sharkbite," but it looks as if it would work well if you don't already have a bunch of barbed fittings already on hand (as I do).

Shawn D. wrote:

demetk wrote:Nice prices from here: http://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/p ... _id=PXC100.

Ah, you used a ribbed (as opposed to barbed) coupler. Not what I was thinking of when you said "Sharkbite," but it looks as if it would work well if you don't already have a bunch of barbed fittings already on hand (as I do).

Not what I envisioned either when they called them barbed fittings. I guess they use the term loosely. Like here for example: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... lsrc=aw.ds

There was a post on the first page that states the flow is reversed compared to the stock valve. Why would it matter the direction of the flow?

camplo wrote:There was a post on the first page that states the flow is reversed compared to the stock valve. Why would it matter the direction of the flow?

On the e46 valve, the coolant inlet hose connects to the bottom port on the valve. When the solenoid isn't activated, coolant flow against the plunger keeps the valve open. If you connect it the other way, then the flow will be strong enough to overcome the very weak spring on the plunger and will seat the plunger. There is a arrow on the valve showing the direction of flow. The hose attached to the back of the head is the inlet hose.

Has anyone found a better HCV to retro fit? The e46 valves are now north of $100.

I'm going to go ahead with e46 valve unless someone comes up with something better. I mean. it's a friggin' solenoid valve!

Any additional tips will be much appreciated!

The vast majority of cars new and old use vacuum or mechanical operation for heater valves; only the Germans seem to mess with putting a solenoid right on the valve.

Converting to vacuum operation would allow for a much wider range of options, I'd bet some of which are much closer to the original valve's shape. I recently discovered that my heater valve was bypassed completely so I'm looking into doing just that.

For instance, water-cooled Porsche guys are a big fan of these "Factory Air" brand valves that cost a whopping $20.

SlickDizzy wrote:The vast majority of cars new and old use vacuum or mechanical operation for heater valves; only the Germans seem to mess with putting a solenoid right on the valve.

Converting to vacuum operation would allow for a much wider range of options, I'd bet some of which are much closer to the original valve's shape. I recently discovered that my heater valve was bypassed completely so I'm looking into doing just that.

For instance, water-cooled Porsche guys are a big fan of these "Factory Air" brand valves that cost a whopping $20.

Those valves are generally only on/off for a long time. They don't pulsate like an E28's valve does.

To implement this, you'll have to add a vacuum solenoid, and depending on how much juice that solenoid needs, a relay to power it.

Shawn D. wrote:To implement this, you'll have to add a vacuum solenoid, and depending on how much juice that solenoid needs, a relay to power it.

That was actually my thinking. Your average EGR vacuum solenoid on anything made in the last ~20 years runs on 12v, is normally closed, and is made to handle repeated on/off cycles. I wouldn't think one would draw any more power than the OE heater valve solenoid, in fact it would probably draw less. Best part is, like the valve posted previously, they are all like $20...or perhaps cheaper if you have a junkyard (and can grab the harness too).

For example's sake:

SlickDizzy wrote:

Shawn D. wrote:To implement this, you'll have to add a vacuum solenoid, and depending on how much juice that solenoid needs, a relay to power it.

That was actually my thinking. Your average EGR vacuum solenoid on anything made in the last ~20 years runs on 12v, is normally closed, and is made to handle repeated on/off cycles. I wouldn't think one would draw any more power than the OE heater valve solenoid, in fact it would probably draw less. Best part is, like the valve posted previously, they are all like $20...or perhaps cheaper if you have a junkyard (and can grab the harness too).

For example's sake:

Nice find. I'm not as familiar with the "new" cars, so I wasn't aware of that part. I'll be interested in seeing what you come up with!

I was contemplating one of these valves. So how many times can the diaphragm cycle before it rips?

I would imagine quite a few times given the cycling of EGR on modern vehicles. Either way, if I can move the failure point from the heater valve itself to an external solenoid I would still consider it an improvement. I'll be getting the parts together in the next few weeks and giving it a shot, the Wisconsin winter is a crappy time to do vehicle work but a great time to test heat functions I suppose...

SlickDizzy wrote:I would imagine quite a few times given the cycling of EGR on modern vehicles.

I think he was talking about the heater valve, not the solenoid.

Ah, now that is a good question. I suppose there’s no good way to know aside from trial and error.

At least there are a much wider variety of vacuum-operated heater valves out there, so there’s bound to be something.

Resurrecting this one.

I made up a bracket per the posts from Demetk for my '86 528e. It took a little of trial and error but fits just fine in the end!

Does anyone have a source or part number for the E46 connector to button it up? I've been trying to get on but no one seems to want to go through the effort for such a tiny cheap piece, and I cant find a proper part number to find a new one.

I would rather not hack up the new valve to solder direct if I can get the right connector.

Maybe Auto Zone or the like might have a connector? I know they do carry similar ones. Or your local auto salvage yard.

williamtii wrote:Resurrecting this one.

I made up a bracket per the posts from Demetk for my '86 528e. It took a little of trial and error but fits just fine in the end!

Does anyone have a source or part number for the E46 connector to button it up? I've been trying to get on but no one seems to want to go through the effort for such a tiny cheap piece, and I cant find a proper part number to find a new one.

I would rather not hack up the new valve to solder direct if I can get the right connector.

Is this the part you’re talking about, p/n 61138365340?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-el ... 1138365340

Installed the e46 valve today. Was a bit difficult finding the right combination of hoses. Additionally, the hardlines from the hydroboost system made it impossible to mount the valve to the original mounts as seen in previous posts. So I attached the valve to the hardline with zipties, its attached pretty rigidly and I don't think it will be going anywhere.

I had an e36 heater control valve and the attached hoses laying around and they worked out pretty good for me. For the engine to control valve hose I had to extend it by a few inches as seen here (I used a portion of hose PN 64211394293):


I used hose PN 64211394291, a 90 degree elbow and straight section of heater hose to go from the outlet of the control valve to the inlet of the heater core:


Full assembly ziptied to the hydroboost hardline and wedged under the post on the firewall cover. Its not going anywhere:


I turned the car on and played with the heat settings, I was able to feel the solenoid clicking on and off so I assume its working.