karlo wrote:It's possible to control the econometer with a 0-5V input, but that requires bypassing the MPG circuit. This would've course involve some surgery to the cluster.
Damn, that's right. The econometer works off of the combined influence of two inputs (road speed and injector pulse width), not just one.
Actually, that's an interesting question. Is that math done in the cluster or the ECU? If it's done in the ECU than modifying the signal to the cluster would work. However, I don't think it will since I don't recall there being a speed input into the ECU . . . damn. Sure sounds like the math is done in the cluster.
The "math" needs to be done before the cluster so the instant economy meter in the gauge cluster reads correct, therefore the OBC input is uneffected. Hijackers.
Last edited by M. Holtmeier on Jul 21, 2007 10:45 PM, edited 1 time in total.
Here's some of the results over the past couple of weeks. I got everything from DIY autotune with the mod kit for PWM IAC and boost control. I've added diodes for switchable boost targets also.
Now I just need to get it wired in the car and figure out how to tune it. If it works!
I need some help. I found a 325i in the yard today with the 60-2 wheel on the front. Will these fit on the m30 too? All the v-belt grooves I need are there, just not sure if the thing will actually go on the snout of the crank or not. TIA.
grsmonkey wrote:I need some help. I found a 325i in the yard today with the 60-2 wheel on the front. Will these fit on the m30 too? All the v-belt grooves I need are there, just not sure if the thing will actually go on the snout of the crank or not. TIA.
I doubt it woud fit. The alt belt pulley is likely a different diameter too, so even if it fit and the belt lined up it would not fit the stock belt, and would drive the accessories at a different speed.
You can get the 60-2 wheel and sensor off an e34. You will have to either run MS1 extra or MS2 extra.
All the hardware is in place on the board for ms-extra and I updated the firmware to the exrta code 029v. My question was whether or not a 60-2 wheel from a 325 will physically fit on my m30 engine. I'm having trouble sourcing parts from an e34. There's nothing local and some quotes I got from online are for $150. I've asked my local salvage yards what they charge for a balancer. $25. I've though about fabricating my own wheel but if the b35 already has it, why do it?
grsmonkey wrote:Here's some of the results over the past couple of weeks. I got everything from DIY autotune with the mod kit for PWM IAC and boost control. I've added diodes for switchable boost targets also.
Now I just need to get it wired in the car and figure out how to tune it. If it works!
Watch out. Peter said that some of those add-on boards are wired wrong. I don't remember which ones. YMMV.
Are you using the PWM IAC circuit that is described in the megamanual, to drive a bosch 3 wire? ie. stock IAC?
I'd recommend a much better circuit: I built this for my girls 323i, and its works great!
This actually uses the fidle signal to control one coil in the IAC, and another circuit that takes the difference of the incoming signal to drive the other coil. Where as the one in the megamanual just pulls one coil.
Watch out. Peter said that some of those add-on boards are wired wrong. I don't remember which ones. YMMV.
Also, MegaLog Viewer is wonderful for tuning.
What does YMMV stand for? This is the TIP120 mod that's in the megamanual. I hope that's not the one he talked about.
Does MegaLogViewer work with the extra code?
Are you using the PWM IAC circuit that is described in the megamanual, to drive a bosch 3 wire? ie. stock IAC?
Cool. I noticed the contradiction in the upper left "Implementation of v3... and ...this does not apply to v3." I'm assuming you're using this on the v3 board right?
I'm using the stock IAC-I'd hate to change the setup now. Are you using this for closed loop IAC? I was just hoping to get away with warmup only. I've read more about smooth idle with no IAC than with the troubles about closed loop. I'm open to feedback though. Figured I start small and get it running.
grsmonkey wrote:
Cool. I noticed the contradiction in the upper left "Implementation of v3... and ...this does not apply to v3." I'm assuming you're using this on the v3 board right?
I'm using the stock IAC-I'd hate to change the setup now. Are you using this for closed loop IAC? I was just hoping to get away with warmup only. I've read more about smooth idle with no IAC than with the troubles about closed loop. I'm open to feedback though. Figured I start small and get it running.
The circuit can be used on V3 and V2.2 boards. If it is used on V3 boards then the circuit to the left does not need to be made. For now I am just running MSII code, no extra, controling fuel only. I run the iac in open loop, once the engine warms up the iac closes, and then idles off the adjusted throttle butterfly. With MSII/Extra you can control the IAC in open and closed loop.
I am always running the latest Beta MSII Extra code experimenting with it. I tried out closed loop for a few days, but just really couldn't get it working the way that I wanted to. To be honest, the M30 idles really well without it though. I idle at 900rpms and the engine is very smooth. I can even turn on the A/C and use it without worrying about the engine's RPM dropping too much.
A few of the boost control issues have just recently been solved so I am going to start playing with that again.
If it is used on V3 boards then the circuit to the left does not need to be made
I'm confused. In the megamanual I removed Q4 and Q20 to install the TIP120 for pwm iac. I wouldn't have to put that back in to run your external board?
BTW- are you guys using the stock coolant sensor? If so, do you know the resistance values are for easytherm?
If it is used on V3 boards then the circuit to the left does not need to be made
I'm confused. In the megamanual I removed Q4 and Q20 to install the TIP120 for pwm iac. I wouldn't have to put that back in to run your external board?
BTW- are you guys using the stock coolant sensor? If so, do you know the resistance values are for easytherm?
Yes you will need to put those parts back in to run this curcuit.
As for the sensors, I am running all BMW sensors, a stock e30 325i "blue" coolant sensor, and a IAT sensor from m50/m60/m70 engines. works like a champ. Using M50 TPS also.
You can either look them up in the Bentley manual or test them yourself. Do you have a manual?
I have a Bentley. Just being lazy. 8)
I was going to use an IAT from an Intl' truck ( 3/8 NPT) Got the spec's from our diag. manual but found the sensor was actually 30k ohm off at 32F. I pulled the coolant temp sensor out of my car to do the checks on it and half the conn had broken off of it. I went to the junk yard and got the gm sensors that are already set up in MS. Are there any reasons I should not do this?
Yes you will need to put those parts back in to run this curcuit
I'm definately glad you informed me of this. I'm not going to use it right away though but probably will not be able to keep myself from doing it after everything is running. It's gonna be hard to stay away from MSII also.
On the topic of sensors. You guys wouldn't know which pins of the 6 pin tps I have to use(from the e34 auto). I have no conn for it. I'm sure I can figure it out on my own ok, but I like verification through redundancy
FirstFives Dictator wrote:
I was just curious whether you had gotten it installed yet.
No, the car is still not all back together but I am finally making some progress. And after talking to Jerry at 5erFest I had decided to wait for the SMD version 3.57 of MS2, which is now available from DIY. It sounded like it was worth holding out for, and the MS2 was hardly the final piece to the puzzle anyway. I am chomping at the bit to get that thing all together.
grsmonkey wrote:
On the topic of sensors. You guys wouldn't know which pins of the 6 pin tps I have to use(from the e34 auto). I have no conn for it. I'm sure I can figure it out on my own ok, but I like verification through redundancy
Let me know if you need it broken down further & I may have something in the archives. Also, for a harness try contacting EurAsian in CO for the hookup. Tell Mike I sent ya!
The VE and timing tables are shit and it doesn't accelerate well but it works. And for some reason the ignition parts are not burning up like they did with the piggy back! It seems I still have my work cut out for me though.
I'm having trouble getting a smooth idle. With the timing set at 15, I have to set the throttle plate as far open as it will go to get 950 rpm. How are guys getting a higher idle rpm? A/F is right at 13 and pulls about 43 kPa. The engine is very slowly hunting. It never idled completely smooth but it was better than this when stock. I won't rule a mechanical problem yet but I'm just thinking I don't have it tuned right either.
Also, can someone tell me how to upload an msq file?[/list]
You can use your idle valve to up your idle if you are really having problems. Just leave it partially open when you are at full warm up.
Verify that your timing is actually what you think it is. Be sure your TPS sensor is calibrated and working properly. What is your air/fuel ratio at idle?