MyE28.com DEV

I just found that my car liked to idle best about 13.7ish. It was smoother and would recover and catch better on decel. I recommend just setting it to whatever gives your car the strongest idle.

Hey Brad.....

All day i was working on getting my m30 idiling good on MS..it wouldnt go below 2k RPM...I though it was because of my VE table so i used yours...same thing. What my problem was i had a huge vac leak! right where the ICV was supposed to be.

So, I plugged that up good and...It idles amazingly, a rock soild 900rpms all the way until it is warm. I loaded back my table to see how it was and yours was much much better! great table!!! Im going to use it and just re-tune above 100kpa since our turbos are different.

Very very nice work! im super happy with both the timing and VE tables. Thanks for sharing.

Im suddenly ready for a street tune! which will come once the snow goes away, and i finish up the odds and ends on the other things.

MS FTW!

Dude, that's awesome! I'm so glad you got it running. Now get out there and start tuning. Remember to datalog and that MegaLogViewer is your secret weapon.

Thanks for the write-up.
I am looking at doing the TCD S2 kit, and doing my homework. I already received an email from Todd advising that Pete is the MS guru - also looks good to have support from you guys as well.

Cheers!

Just a question to the MS users...What firmware are most guys here using?

I was until today using a MS2extra 2.1.0 Beta code but it started acting werid and I would keep losing sync in MT .

So i went back to the "stable code" code 2.0.1 and made a fresh MSQ. Runs okay and idles even lower 750-800 VS. 900-950 so i guess thats cool.

e30-m30_kid89 wrote:Just a question to the MS users...What firmware are most guys here using?

I was until today using a MS2extra 2.1.0 Beta code but it started acting werid and I would keep losing sync in MT .

So i went back to the "stable code" code 2.0.1 and made a fresh MSQ. Runs okay and idles even lower 750-800 VS. 900-950 so i guess thats cool.

2.1.0h 01/13/09 release. Non-turbo car, but MS2Extra.

okay so im trying to find out what the "F" im supposed to do if i have a 2 wire idle control valve for my 533i and if anyone has run in to that. wether or not i should use a 535 or if i can use that valve with or with out the glens garage pwm idle board or what. i appreciate the quick responces.

bornagain wrote:okay so im trying to find out what the "F" im supposed to do if i have a 2 wire idle control valve for my 533i and if anyone has run in to that. wether or not i should use a 535 or if i can use that valve with or with out the glens garage pwm idle board or what. i appreciate the quick responces.

I know you got my PM but I'm going to post my response so others will have the answer.
On step 22 you don't need to use any jumpers as that is only if you are using a stepper motor IAC, which the Bosch unit is not. Between steps 62 and 63 you will see a box for "PWM idle valve users only" - ignore it and build the circuits as outlined in the step. The Fidle output will go to the glens garage board and it does all the work.

bornagain wrote:okay so im trying to find out what the "F" im supposed to do if i have a 2 wire idle control valve for my 533i and if anyone has run in to that. wether or not i should use a 535 or if i can use that valve with or with out the glens garage pwm idle board or what. i appreciate the quick responces.

Probably can use it in warm-up mode, not sure about closed loop. IIRC, the valve is normally open and is closed by the controller. VDO valve, right?

thanks brad. i'm sure i will have more questions but well get to them when i get to them haha,.

yeah its a vdo valve if i remember correctly and if im at all correct in the next thing, im pretty sure i can use the pwm idle mod to wire it instead of the glens garage. but i am really looking for some confirmation of that. these are the instructions to it. and i was only going to use it in warm-up mode ass swell.

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/IAC.htm#fidle

its almost at the bottom of the page.

the other question is: i know brad is using a 60-2 toothed wheel but i was thinking i would use the factory vr sensor on the bellhousing has anyone else done this, and what are the settings?

ohh hurdles be affraid

flywheel sensor will not work with Megasquirt unless there's some new development I don't know about.

I am not aware of anyone using the flywheel sensors. You would have to use both which would require dual trigger inputs, if you could even get it to work. 60-2 would be much easier.

okay so i am mistaken.... 60-2 it is.... um who's got one for me?

bornagain wrote:okay so i am mistaken.... 60-2 it is.... um who's got one for me?

The Mx/Sx motors use them as well as the M30b35

yes but i have a m30b32......

So pull one of a b35 and call it a day.

yes. but these cars are alot harder to find where i live,,, my best chance would be to buy all new or have someone with the parts that wants to sell

bornagain wrote:yes. but these cars are alot harder to find where i live,,, my best chance would be to buy all new or have someone with the parts that wants to sell

Start a thread the for sale/wanted section. Should be able to find one for pretty cheap.

right okay thanks... duh

I have a hunch that senior Hernandez will have one for you.

thesixerkid wrote:I have a hunch that senior Hernandez will have one for you.

Why would his dad have one?

2 questions...

Is it safe to say Most MS guys here are running their injector staging to 2squirts/Alternating?

Also, Looking at one of my datalogs with my 36lb injectors and at 169kpa my injector duty cycle was 139%!! which really worries me. I was running 1 squirt simultaneous. Could my injectors be getting maxed out that badly?

e30-m30_kid89 wrote:2 questions...

Is it safe to say Most MS guys here are running their injector staging to 2squirts/Alternating?

Also, Looking at one of my datalogs with my 36lb injectors and at 169kpa my injector duty cycle was 139%!! which really worries me. I was running 1 squirt simultaneous. Could my injectors be getting maxed out that badly?

I encourage all MS2 or MS2Extra users with moderate sized injectors to run 6 sqrts alt.

so im still a bit at a loss as to what excactly i am supposed to do with the vdo type idle control valve, the valve responds to 12v in one direction non-polarized and has virtually no travel, so i dont know if its variable at all or if it is simply on or off. will i have adverse affects with removing the vdo control unit or do i ahve to keep that in there and if thats the case can i wire it through the unit with mega squirt/ mega squirt pwm mod/ or glens garage board?

thanks

steven

okay so i cut the vdo controller out. im done screwing around.

Are you going to go to the three wire valve and run the GG board? You shouldn't have any problems as long as your wiring goes to the correct pins on the idle board and the correct pins on the valve. You may have to run some wires but it shouldn't be too hard since you've already gotten this far.

Yeah so update on my part, the valve i have opens and closes on 12v and its non polarized but i dont know if its incremental(ie varied voltage = varied opening) i believe it will work of the mega squirt with the simple pwm mod kit that they sell. so i am going to try it but if it doesnt work then i will undo that and find the 3 wire valve and the gg board. we'll see maybe i have found a new way of getting idle instead of going with the gg board and it may be a cheaper alternative than the board and valve combo. either way for now im waiting on parts for the board. im also going to install the boost control upgrade and us the boost controller they sell. i also ordered my iat sensor and a couple relay kits, for electric fan and im going to put another one in for a water sprayer function. i also ordered another fet chip as mine for some reason decided to smoke, crack (see kids crack is bad) and over heat the first time i powered up the completed board. not sure if it was because i was missing one of the fuel injector resistors or not but they are sending me that and the 330 ohm resistor for the high current ignition circuit.

Besides all that, last night i started wiring in my harness for the squirt and i had my grounds and power and injectors connectedso i decided to test for power. I turned the key on and it couldnt connect to the damn thing, then when i plugged the jimstim back in to it and powered it on with the power pack it sync but was acting up like crazy, if i turned the rpm up it would bounce back and forth from 0 to where ever the signal was telling it, that it should be and it was beeping every now and then that it was connecting and disconnecting. When i did a bit more trouble shooting i started testing the main relay and for some reason that wasnt getting 12v and then when i finally got it to turn on, the first time i took my multi meter to it, it read over 20v on 2 of the terminals, i have no idea how i got more then 12 volts going to it, there isnt even an engine in the car!!!!! Anyway im worried i had a short somewhere momentarily and it sparked and might have scrambled something in the communication port or the processor cause it seems that its still working, just doing erratic things.

Input on this would be great. ohh and keep in mind there is nothing for sensors or dick all hooked up as there is NO engine right now. and i made sure i took the trickle charger of my battery befor connecting the megasquirt.

Now im waiting for pay day to order even more parts, thermostat housing, 60-2 sensor, wheel and mount, and 6 wire tps w/ pigtail.

Question to throw out there, im going to be putting the block back together pretty soon is there a set of crank and rod bearings anyone can recommend as well as a full gasket kit. im also going to go stock head gasket for now and arp head bolts. ohh and i need the timing chain gears and the guides to go with them asap ass swell.

got one question.....I cant put my finger on it but the car wont rev past 5200 RPM or so i've confirmed from my datalogs...When it hits there its feels like a revlimiter and it bounces and the exhaust pops. I tried tweaking the VE in the area and nothing.

My wideband's reading show 12.5 - and somtimes 11.8 AFR at that part but it still wont go.

am i stupidly rich or too lean or?

Things that come immediately to mind - dwell settings, a bad coil, bad coil connections.