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Posted: Apr 24, 2010 2:24 AM
by 1st 5er
TangerMean wrote:I cannot thank you enough Sherman you went way way way above and beyond!!!!!
The car is running as smooth as glass! which aint to bad considering it hadn't run in 6 or so years!!! Now I get to go through and get it road ready maybe in time for the meet! I'll keep my fingers crossed.
Your welcome, and many thanks are also due to the MyE28.com crew,
.
Glad we didn't get our butts totally kicked.
'Til the 8th then...
Posted: Apr 24, 2010 2:26 AM
by TangerMean
swatterssr wrote:TangerMean wrote:I cannot thank you enough Sherman you went way way way above and beyond!!!!!
The car is running as smooth as glass! which aint to bad considering it hadn't run in 6 or so years!!! Now I get to go through and get it road ready maybe in time for the meet! I'll keep my fingers crossed.
Your welcome, and many thanks are also due to the MyE28.com crew,
.
Glad we didn't get our butts totally kicked.
'Til the 8th then...
Oh for sure thanks everyone else as well we would still be out there scratching our heads and fighting the dogs!
Posted: Apr 26, 2010 2:49 PM
by TangerMean
Ok, now that the car runs and idles very nicely it time to start getting it ready to drive. I have noticed my tach doesn't work at all.
There is a spare instrument cluster in the trunk, but Swatter and I determined it was an Auto cluster due to the circuit board at the bottom where the gear indicator is for an auto car. Does this matter?
Can I replace the cluster and rule out any issues with the original instrument cluster? Or is there a way to diagnose it?
Posted: Apr 26, 2010 4:24 PM
by doug
Auto cluster should work fine -- just some extra lights at the bottom and that's it. Note that you can just swap parts (i.e. tach, speedo, etc) from one cluster to the other if you want, or replace the whole thing. Contact cleaner is sometimes helpful when going through this process.
Posted: Apr 26, 2010 4:27 PM
by TangerMean
dotrp wrote:Auto cluster should work fine -- just some extra lights at the bottom and that's it. Note that you can just swap parts (i.e. tach, speedo, etc) from one cluster to the other if you want, or replace the whole thing. Contact cleaner is sometimes helpful when going through this process.
Thanks I will probably start messing with it tonight.
Posted: Apr 26, 2010 9:49 PM
by TangerMean
I swapped just the tach but it didn't work either should I change the whole cluster or will that even make a difference?
Or could it be something else all together?
Posted: Apr 26, 2010 10:02 PM
by mooseheadm5
It is possible that it isn't getting tach signal, but it is more likely that you have a problem with the motherboard in the cluster.
Posted: Apr 26, 2010 10:17 PM
by TangerMean
mooseheadm5 wrote:It is possible that it isn't getting tach signal, but it is more likely that you have a problem with the motherboard in the cluster.
yea I will try the other cluster wednesday when I bypass the heater core. When I get a new reference point sensor the speed sensor is the same sensor so I just buy two correct?
Sorry for all the questions guys just trying to learn as things get repaired.
Posted: Apr 26, 2010 10:39 PM
by 1st 5er
TangerMean wrote:mooseheadm5 wrote:It is possible that it isn't getting tach signal, but it is more likely that you have a problem with the motherboard in the cluster.
yea I will try the other cluster wednesday when I bypass the heater core. When I get a new reference point sensor the speed sensor is the same sensor so I just buy two correct?
Sorry for all the questions guys just trying to learn as things get repaired.
Try the other cluster as a whole.
If it works you can, as Paul suggested, swap out just the motherboard, or swap your speedometer into the new cluster to keep the original low mileage thingy going.
(If you'll pull the auto tranny light bar out of the spare cluster before installing, I'd like to have it for when/if mine fails.
Please and Thank You,
.)
You might first make sure the small, I think blue, signal wire is plugged into the back of the current cluster.
You should be able to look at the ETM to verify wire color.
If you can't figure it out, I'm sure there's those here who know it from experience.
Yes, buy 2 sensors.
They are the same.
Posted: Apr 26, 2010 10:52 PM
by TangerMean
Ok cool. I just wanted to double check before I put my order in tomorrow.
The blue signal wire was hooked up. I will double clean all the connections just to make sure.
I'll pull that board out for ya before I install the different cluster.
Posted: May 03, 2010 2:30 PM
by TangerMean
Well I will be jacking with the gauge cluster again tonight hope I can get something going the 8th is breathing down my neck!
Posted: May 03, 2010 8:20 PM
by 1st 5er
TangerMean wrote:the 8th is breathing down my neck!
You mean this?
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=77280
Posted: May 03, 2010 9:30 PM
by TangerMean
yep that's what I'm talking about. However it's looking more and more like I won't be making it...
Posted: May 04, 2010 12:51 AM
by 1st 5er
TangerMean wrote: However it's looking more and more like I won't be making it...
You mean the stang is down too?
JK - What can we do to fix that, the E28 that is?
Posted: May 04, 2010 9:33 AM
by TangerMean
swatterssr wrote:TangerMean wrote: However it's looking more and more like I won't be making it...
You mean the stang is down too?
JK - What can we do to fix that, the E28 that is?
Well I dont trust the Bimmer, yet especially not on a 200+ mile journey.
I totally forgot my brothers wedding was this Friday so the car will not be ready and my weekend is getting more and more packed with stuff to do by the day.
We will see though I might just meet yall at one of the points or something.
Posted: May 08, 2010 5:38 PM
by TangerMean
I had a few hours this morning before I had to start my chores for the day (wifey was out at a brunch!)
I got the tach working...
ignintion switch in...
New reference and speed sensors in...
New intake boot on...
column and dash back together...
Bypassed the heater valve...
Now for the not so great parts!
While swapping out the reference sensors I broke the bolt that holds them in, anybody got a spare or know where to get them?
Also the heater valve has a huge crack in the case so the repair kit wont solve the leaking issue there. Has anyone tried to epoxy one back together? (I might try)
The barb going to from the radiator to the expansion tank has been broke for quite some time. The PO put a barbed brass fitting in its place which works fine except I cannot get a small enough tube to go over the barbed fitting. So I may be getting a new radiator just because of that dang fitting!
And the main relay is no good so I have to use a jumper.
Oh here is a picture of the car back on the factory rims and factory tires. I am so surprised they still hold air!
Posted: May 13, 2010 11:00 PM
by TangerMean
Well I almost got brave enough to drive it today! But I wasn't and I didn't...
Maybe next time!
Posted: May 14, 2010 12:36 PM
by shagrath
Cap and rotor button?
Posted: May 14, 2010 12:48 PM
by TangerMean
shagrath wrote:Cap and rotor button?
What is the cap and rotor button?
Posted: May 14, 2010 1:41 PM
by John in VA
TangerMean wrote: What is the cap and rotor button?
Matt was suggesting you might also want to renew your "distributor" cap and rotor button. The cap is on the front of the engine, with the spark plug wires attached to it.
Posted: May 14, 2010 1:44 PM
by mooseheadm5
shagrath wrote:Cap and rotor button?
Why? The car runs great.
Posted: May 14, 2010 1:44 PM
by TangerMean
John in VA wrote:TangerMean wrote: What is the cap and rotor button?
Matt was suggesting you might also want to renew your "distributor" cap and rotor button. The cap is on the front of the engine, with the spark plug wires attached to it.
Yes I know what a distributor cap is just never heard of the rotor arm being called a rotor button.
Besides the car purrs like a kitten I doubt it needs a new cap and rotor
I learned something new today can I go home now?
Posted: May 14, 2010 1:45 PM
by TangerMean
I am looking at adjusting the valves I hear some ticking but don't know how much is normal.
Wouldn't hurt I suppose
Posted: May 14, 2010 1:50 PM
by shagrath
Oh shit. I totally didn't read the second page. Didn't realizwe the spark issue was resolved.
Move along... nothing to see here.
Posted: May 14, 2010 1:55 PM
by TangerMean
shagrath wrote:Oh shit. I totally didn't read the second page. Didn't realizwe the spark issue was resolved.
Move along... nothing to see here.
Ah thanks bud, Maybe I should update the first post...
Posted: May 14, 2010 3:54 PM
by 1st 5er
TangerMean wrote:...reference sensors... broke the bolt that holds them in, anybody got a spare or know where to get them?
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=75100
Posted: May 14, 2010 3:58 PM
by TangerMean
Yes I need to pay you a visit!
Posted: May 20, 2010 11:56 PM
by TangerMean
Well I drove it around the neighborhood today!!!! first time this car has moved under its own power in 6+ years!!!!
Temperature gauge still isn't working. Now its time to go through the cooling system and fix the slight leaks, maybe get some new pads and rotors, change the brake fluid and bleed the system. and who knows what else!
Posted: May 21, 2010 12:32 AM
by 1st 5er
It's the never ending story...
Posted: Jun 19, 2012 12:07 PM
by TangerMean
After having my first child and buying/moving into our first house I am back at it!
I have gotten the Temperature gauge working in the 535 and will (fingers crossed) be on my way to fixing the other little problems and getting it into driving condition.
Oh...and this little thing showed up too, and it wont leave!