E28 Megasquirt FAQ
okay so i got the firm ware all fixed up but now one of my injector banks isnt firing and i have done a bit of troubleshooting and i think its the FET but im not completly sure. when the ecu is on i have 4.8 v at input A but only 2.8 v at input B, and on the output side i have 0v at outA but i have 1.5v at outB and that voltage is carried over to pin 1 of Q11, whats odd is that befor all this started happening this was the bank that was working fine. ohh and same voltages at corresponding pins 21 and 22 of ecu. any thoughts?
ohh and i did try debugging the ecu with the flash again but it didnt help.
so i did one more check with the meter before i had to leave the garage tonight due to frustration, what i fould was i was getting continuity across the fet on the bad bank but not the good one.
ohh and i did try debugging the ecu with the flash again but it didnt help.
so i did one more check with the meter before i had to leave the garage tonight due to frustration, what i fould was i was getting continuity across the fet on the bad bank but not the good one.
okay well i have temporarily setup my ms2 to run on just one injector bank til the new fet and various other goodies get here. Including CLT temp sensor.
Anyway what my new question is... heres a simple one that i just cant see (maybe its cause my eyes can only see 16x16 rainbows). Anyway when aplaying back my datalogs it appears that my VE table is running off my TP and RPM not baro and RPM. i told you its simple i cant find where to change it over to baro.
edit: i think i figured it out.... in the configurator in under map/baro setting. tell me if im right or wrong. im not in the car anymore tonight but for fun i will try to upload my log from my first drive in the car in well atleast a year.
http://www.2shared.com/file/8008148/b6c67eae/atb2.html
Anyway what my new question is... heres a simple one that i just cant see (maybe its cause my eyes can only see 16x16 rainbows). Anyway when aplaying back my datalogs it appears that my VE table is running off my TP and RPM not baro and RPM. i told you its simple i cant find where to change it over to baro.
edit: i think i figured it out.... in the configurator in under map/baro setting. tell me if im right or wrong. im not in the car anymore tonight but for fun i will try to upload my log from my first drive in the car in well atleast a year.
http://www.2shared.com/file/8008148/b6c67eae/atb2.html
yeah i tried to look it over a tonne but i cant figure it out cause i am on speed density but if you look at my log even at 10psi its only hitting 100% on VE map. i cant figure it out. i will upload my msq as well maybe you can help me figure it out dan.
http://www.2shared.com/file/8020287/37fee9e5/next2.html
ps brad im looking for you to stick your head in on this one anywhere right about now.
http://www.2shared.com/file/8020287/37fee9e5/next2.html
ps brad im looking for you to stick your head in on this one anywhere right about now.
No, I'm not using % baro.bornagain wrote:Brad your not using %baro are you?
What is the problem with the CLT sensor? Is it not reading at all or is the reading just wrong?bornagain wrote:okay so i feel like a super noob right now but i will tell you what i did find. when in MLV i had some how in adverantly switched the y-axis to tp rather then map. so yeah.... now to figure out why my clt sensor is not reading properly.
okay so yeah figured out why the MLV was screwed up and i thought it was MT. As far as the sensor goes, apparently somewhere in my wiring diagram things went wrong. on my wiring diagram it says that the br/red wire is for coolant and that is what i hooked up but later when i checked it i have continuity with ground on that wire. so i ran a temp wire and viola it works now. so somewhere in the wiring it is shorted or my wiring diagram is wrong.
Brad what themistor table did you go with?
i think my number were
-30 12002
30 1788
99 187
Brad what themistor table did you go with?
i think my number were
-30 12002
30 1788
99 187
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I guess... I get the whole idea of how to make the engine run (spark advance, AFR). What I don't understand is all the different boards and inputs/outputs, abbreviations, and computer components. I wouldn't feel comfortable hands on when I feel this clueless. I understand what volumetric efficiency is, but I don't understand the VE table. I don't really understand how to read the tables in general. It seems you're already supposed to know this stuff or you don't get to play. I haven't found a place that describes the basics of the stuff I don't get.grsmonkey wrote:Sounds like you just need some hands on experience.
Tyler, I highly suggest reading this book:tsmall07 wrote:I guess... I get the whole idea of how to make the engine run (spark advance, AFR). What I don't understand is all the different boards and inputs/outputs, abbreviations, and computer components. I wouldn't feel comfortable hands on when I feel this clueless. I understand what volumetric efficiency is, but I don't understand the VE table. I don't really understand how to read the tables in general. It seems you're already supposed to know this stuff or you don't get to play. I haven't found a place that describes the basics of the stuff I don't get.grsmonkey wrote:Sounds like you just need some hands on experience.
It starts with the simple concepts and moves forward in a very straightforward fashion.
HEY I'm back. after a short time away from the car and the 'squirt I am sorta refreshed and ready to get back to screwing around with the car. I finally went out tonight and bought a new laptop so I can tune comfortably. So yeah. hopefully there will be less bitching and moaning from me and some real progress. please add my 535 in your prayers. lol.
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Go get 'em, Johnny!alijonny wrote:HEY I'm back. after a short time away from the car and the 'squirt I am sorta refreshed and ready to get back to screwing around with the car. I finally went out tonight and bought a new laptop so I can tune comfortably. So yeah. hopefully there will be less bitching and moaning from me and some real progress. please add my 535 in your prayers. lol.
speaking of, look at this site I found, pretty neat. I think I may have a #27? or #5? It can make sense since I have issues with the exhaust manifolds getting red hot art idle.
http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark ... talog.html
http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark ... talog.html
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If any of you are running MS2Extra 2.1.0, I can recommend the 2.1.1b beta or even the 3.0.3n alpha.
Ken has improved the MAP sampling and it yields a much smoother idle and better throttle response (set your MAP lag to 100 and forget about it). I run sampling angle of 140 and window size of 20 on the M30.
Development of 2.x.x code has stopped with 2.1.1b; there are some closed loop idle improvements in 3.0.3n which I am running. If you have TunerStudioMS, it's not too bad to migrate your MSQ from one to the other (just read and heed the warnings when you import into the newer project)
There's a turbo Corvette I'm working with locally, and I think I will migrate it from 2.1.0p to 3.0.3n.
Ken has improved the MAP sampling and it yields a much smoother idle and better throttle response (set your MAP lag to 100 and forget about it). I run sampling angle of 140 and window size of 20 on the M30.
Development of 2.x.x code has stopped with 2.1.1b; there are some closed loop idle improvements in 3.0.3n which I am running. If you have TunerStudioMS, it's not too bad to migrate your MSQ from one to the other (just read and heed the warnings when you import into the newer project)
There's a turbo Corvette I'm working with locally, and I think I will migrate it from 2.1.0p to 3.0.3n.
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- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
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Have you verified the timing at idle?alijonny wrote:speaking of, look at this site I found, pretty neat. I think I may have a #27? or #5? It can make sense since I have issues with the exhaust manifolds getting red hot art idle.
http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark ... talog.html
The one explanation for glowing manifolds is too little ignition advance.alijonny wrote:speaking of, look at this site I found, pretty neat. I think I may have a #27? or #5? It can make sense since I have issues with the exhaust manifolds getting red hot art idle.
http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark ... talog.html
Yup, the late combustion continues as the mixture leaves the exhaust valve and continues to burn in the manifold causing it to glow.turbodan wrote:The one explanation for glowing manifolds is too little ignition advance.alijonny wrote:speaking of, look at this site I found, pretty neat. I think I may have a #27? or #5? It can make sense since I have issues with the exhaust manifolds getting red hot art idle.
http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark ... talog.html
johnny what is your setting for trigger offset angle? Between the codes, as updated earlier in this manual the newer codes do away with offset angle and if you run brads settings this will happen. Not that brads are wrong they are just for the earlier code. Needless to say i had the excact same thing where i was turning my turbo and mani's red hot even at idle cause i had brads setting of 60 degrees offset trigger angle and the newer code says 0 degrees. After this was changed all was good and i found where all my power was.
So on the topic of spark plugs i am probably going to be putting in some bkre5e's for winter. The only way to make my car reliable right now and usable is to make it run rich, and with the cold temps the 6e's are starting to foul. Still have yet to do compression tests and a few other tests but i am going to try to look for a nice fresh 35 block and head to throw in for the spring. Maybe some dual springs in the head too. New clutch and possible new tranny.... does anyone know of a stronger gearset rebuild kit for the 260/6?