Noob M30B35 Build

[tig]

Thanks Chris. Can you point me to a wiki or something that will teach me the searches you used to find those guides?

Serious cleaning has been done.

[Justin_FL]

I was going a little OCD myself, too. Just a quick clean and then some tar remover for the dark stuff righti front of the tire. Couldn't find a toothbrush to get the little bits.

[tig]

Justin, nice work!

Some bling.

[wkohler]

It's not easy work but I think once it's done, maintenance won't be so bad. It's certainly overwhelming at first.

[tig]

I get a sort of perverse pleasure out of cleaning wheel wells. The cosmoline on my 911 was horrific. After:



CJ hasn't been able to help me all day because he's been at lacrosse practice. But he did just bring me sustenance. Chipotle FTW.



Brake regulator/bomb out. I think i'm now at the point where everything that can be deconstructed has been. I even put the heater blower back in...

[tig]

Had a coupon for HF and bought one of these little dollys.



Now tucked away until I decide what I want to do with it...with my growing collection of E28 stuff.



Boom!



I hate painting things, but I guess I really gotta paint the steering box or it's just gonna look like shit.



Subframe reinforcement kit ordered from Ed. The nut/bolt was loose, but the welds still look fine. Once I get the reinforcement dowel welded in this goes to the powder coater.

[trevmmeister]

It is uhh... 5:45 AM. I started reading this thread at about 11 PM. I have very much enjoyed that time.

[tig]

Glad I could pleasure you.

[dsmith]

I feel like I just did that over the weekend. Oh yea, cuz I did. Pulled it from the top. I couldn't be bothered with all of that powder coating and plating and such, though. Just cleaned everything and replaced seals, gaskets, hoses, shifter stuff etc. I have belts, radiator, driveshaft and exhaust left to install. Hopefully, will have my 533is running this weekend.

Keep up the good work! It's gonna be purteeeee!

[Mike W.]

Looks good! Yeah, sometimes doing an engine or the like I swear I spend more time cleaning and painting than I do wrenching. But in the future it's so much nicer dealing with clean parts not 30 years of grime and leaks and cosmoline and road grit.

[tn535i]

Looks good! Yeah, sometimes doing an engine or the like I swear I spend more time cleaning and painting than I do wrenching. But in the future it's so much nicer dealing with clean parts not 30 years of grime and leaks and cosmoline and road grit.

It seems like everything I do I spend more time hunting for tools and such, cleaning, overthinking, double checking, putting things back or sometimes NOT (which is why I spend so much time hunting), cleaning myself up, and so on... then I ever actually spend working on the thing itself.

Anyway, nice work and enjoy following the progress...

[tig]

Took the tranny to a local shop. They can't get the output/prop nut off. Claim they even soaked it with PB blaster and borrowed a 3/4" impact from next door after their 1/2" wouldn't do the trick.

Glad I didn't try it myself, but this basically means, i think that once this transmission runs out of steam...its done.

Is it typical for these to be next to impossible to take off? These guys come recommended by local BMW (e30) dudes so I have no choice but to believe them.

It was not leaking through rear seal so I'm not too bummed about this, but still...

[Mike W.]

There have been a couple of guys here that couldn't get that nut off. I've done a few and it was no big deal, maybe 100 foot pounds? Nothing, absolutely nothing like the nut on the front end of the crank. My only guess is salt and rust. Oh, while it is out I would emphatically replace the selector shaft seal. Those always seem to leak at 50K plus. The new technique, which I haven't tried yet, is to just pound the new one in on top of the old one. That's not really my style, but I can see where it might work better, the outer just has to stop what gets by the inner.

[wkohler]

Just did my selector shaft seal in the 260/5 today while putting in my super old old old old old old old old old stock (asbestos lining) clutch. It seriously takes like 5 minutes to get the old one out with a pick and a screwdriver. Fixed. Done. Easy peasy. Never had a problem with the output flange, but it's easier to really put torque on it in the car. Same with the flange on the diff. We had a hell of a time getting the old pilot bearing out though. Wow.

[tig]

Got this.



Now off to get it welded into place...

[slammin_e28]

The new technique, which I haven't tried yet, is to just pound the new one in on top of the old one. That's not really my style, but I can see where it might work better, the outer just has to stop what gets by the inner.

Works like a cha-cha-charm. Did mine that way when I put the B35 in the touring. It was leaking badly too.

Fun part is when the new seal wears out and you have to get it out to replace it.

[vinceg101]

Yeah, I too got a little clean-crazy this past weekend when doing the rear end replacement on the M535:

I couldn't put in all this new shiny stuff on top of all that grime, could I?

(Apologies for the less the desirable photo quality)

[tig]

Exciting stuff: Picked tranny up from shop. All seals but output shaft seal replaced.

Dropped subframe off a favorite muffler shop to have the re-enforcement dowel welded in. Should be ready Monday.

[foolish]

I've used a plumbers torch on the output flange nut followed by impact gun with success. I think its easy enough to remove and replace a leaky seal rather than doubling em up. The car is looking super clean.

[tig]

New brake bomb & hoses installed.

[Mike W.]

I've used a plumbers torch on the output flange nut followed by impact gun with success. I think its easy enough to remove and replace a leaky seal rather than doubling em up. The car is looking super clean.

The problem with that is if it's not successful you have now trashed the existing seal. I'd rather drill it and split it.

[tig]

The flange on the bav auto headers is thinner than the original exhaust manifolds (about 9mm compared to ~15mm).

I plan on putting the headers on AFTER the engine is in the car, to ease installation (I'm also going to be putting the tranny on after).

Even if I weren't going to do this, several of the nuts are very challenging to get a wrench around.

I'd like to use shorter studs. The stock studs are M8 & 40mm long. Any issue with me using these 35mm studs from McMaster? Is stainless a good or bad idea for this?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=s80ha5

[muz]

I would use the standard studs, stainless is not necessary however copper washers and nuts are: so as the nuts do not seize on the studs down the track. Shorter studs are fine but they need to be long enough so that all the thread of the nut is used.

[tig]

I would use the standard studs, stainless is not necessary however copper washers and nuts are: so as the nuts do not seize on the studs down the track. Shorter studs are fine but they need to be long enough so that all the thread of the nut is used.

I've measured and taking 5mm off will still allow plenty of thread to still stick out of nut.

[tig]

I got the steering box painted.



I will be taking my strut bar and subframe to be powder coated. I really want the strut bar to be the same aluminum as the intake manifold, but I want the subframe to be standard black. Once you pick a color the cost of additional pieces is small so I decided I would go ahead and coat a bunch of other stuff that I wasn't originally planning on.



This includes the alternator housing.



I figured if I took the alternator apart and something broke (since I don't know what I'm doing), it wouldn't be the end of the world as I still have the 115A unit that's been on the M30B34 from Vlad. I had to use an easy-out to get two of the small screws on the front cover off; they stripped immediately wen I tried removing them even though I had soaked them in PB blaster. Besides that the alternator came apart as expected.







After cleaning the housing with the soda blaster and the insides with parts cleaner and a scrub brush, I could see that all connections look strong and there's not a ton of wear.





I had some orange high-temp engine paint and decided the orange highlight, instead of the original rusty red, would look interesting, so i painted the outside of the stator. It's going to look pretty neat with the casing powder coated brilliant aluminum. It won't satisfy OCCoupe, but oh, well.