Noob M30B35 Build

[tig]

I now have everything I need for the trip to the powder coat place tomorrow...I hope.

[msam1911]

I'm living my Zinno rebuild vicariously through this awesome thread - great inspiration! Question: You mentioned you wanted an exhaust with a different tone than the IE... Did you find it to be obnoxiously loud? My 535is somehow came with a single pipe exhaust so I need to replace it. I was between stock and IE, but I don't want my car to sound like somebody's Civic.

I appreciate your/everyone's input.

Thanks

[tig]

I'm living my Zinno rebuild vicariously through this awesome thread - great inspiration! Question: You mentioned you wanted an exhaust with a different tone than the IE... Did you find it to be obnoxiously loud? My 535is somehow came with a single pipe exhaust so I need to replace it. I was between stock and IE, but I don't want my car to sound like somebody's Civic.

I appreciate your/everyone's input.

Thanks

When I first installed the exhaust I loved it. Over time I realized what people meant by a drone at 2500 rpm. My goal is to get rid of the drone. The exhaust note is great. Not too loud.

[tig]

I'm toying with different replacement firewall insulation options.

• Option 1: Try to find a replacement OE piece from a parts car. I am skeptical I can find something in good enough shape. But I'm looking.
• Option 2: The stuff below from JC Whitney. It's good good thickness, but the fact that it's fiber and not rubber concerns me a little. It will look great and will probably insulate just fine. But will it last?
• Option 3: I've found some, apparently, good neophene rubber that appears to be about the thickness of the OE rubber. Combining that with some insulation that's just the thin shiny/reflective aluminum might work.

Would love more opinions and thoughts from others on what they've done.

[muz]

I think that the fibre insulation will be just fine, what about spraying it with black body deadener prior to application, this could be the glue to stick it on, mask up the shinny bit. I would experiment first.

I'm interested to know what you pay for powder coating. I was quoted $320 AU for rocker cover and inlet manifold. Seems excessive IMO.

[Crazy_Canuck]

Do not use that fiber insulation, it will get wet and not dry out.

That fiber insulation, from JC Whitney, is ment to be used inside the car.

[slimdevil27]

Look to the original purpose.....sound deadener and radiant heat reflector. Most sound deadeners, like dynamat, have the reflective facing. The printed name on the reflective surface will most often come off with green brake parts cleaner. Peel and stick, simple as that.

[trevmmeister]

Moar updatz pleez cek. I am starting to lose interest in life due to lack of pictures of your engine/overall project.

[tig]

My son graduating from high school has taken priority the last few weeks. But that is done.

We are now empty nesters and our kids are now simply house guests. Hahahaha.



Powder coater says parts will be ready tomorrow.

[trevmmeister]

Oh awesome! Congratulations to him, I just graduated high school myself last month. Good to hear, where is the list of parts that are being coated again? Forget what page that was on.

[tig]

Oh awesome! Congratulations to him, I just graduated high school myself last month. Good to hear, where is the list of parts that are being coated again? Forget what page that was on.

From memory:

• Subframe (black)
• Air filter housing (black) (i'll probably sell this)
• Oil filter housing
• Alternator housing
• Thermostat housing
• ICV bracket
• throttle body
• A spare B34 intake manifold; I'll sell it

[trevmmeister]

Oh awesome! Congratulations to him, I just graduated high school myself last month. Good to hear, where is the list of parts that are being coated again? Forget what page that was on.

From memory:

• Subframe (black)
• Air filter housing (black) (i'll probably sell this)
• Oil filter housing
• Alternator housing
• Thermostat housing
• ICV bracket
• throttle body
• A spare B34 intake manifold; I'll sell it

How much will you be selling the intake and air filter housing for? I will be rebuilding my M30B34 soon(head/crank/pistons) but i will probably just clean my head/cover/block/oil pan.

[jodystevens]

What did you use to clean the wheel wells and such?

[tig]

What did you use to clean the wheel wells and such?

Getting cosmoline off can be a real bitch. I spent DOZENS of hours on the 911. I used a combination of diesel, P21S Total Auto Wash, various degreasers, and a LOT of elbow grease.

I have since found that a steam cleaner can go a long way towards helping. But you have to be patient.

I found this thread useful:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche- ... t-off.html

[ldsbeaker]

What did you use to clean the wheel wells and such?

Getting cosmoline off can be a real bitch. I spent DOZENS of hours on the 911. I used a combination of diesel, P21S Total Auto Wash, various degreasers, and a LOT of elbow grease.

I have since found that a steam cleaner can go a long way towards helping. But you have to be patient.

I found this thread useful:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche- ... t-off.html

I just got lost in there. Thank you.

[tig]

I think I found the firewall insulation I'm going to use.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PI ... =ceklog-20



A quick wipe with Wurth Clean Solve takes the logo right off:



It's thinner than the OEM stuff, but actually sturdier.

I have some 1/4" thick neophrene insulation I found too.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ID ... UTF8&psc=1



I think I'll put it under the Thermo-Tec stuff to get back to the OEM material's thickness. It's closed-cell rubber and even though theres' no heat rating for it, since it will be behind the Thermo-Tec it should work great for additional noise insulation.

In other news, got all the stuff back from powder coating. As usually Powdervision did a great job.



The strut bar came out great. I considered doing it black, but think the aluminum will look sweet.





It is now just slightly more OcCoupe worthy:



I had them powder coat the intake manifold that came off the donor motor just to make it more valuable for selling; to recoup some of the powdercoating costs. Who wants it? $200.

[tig]

Glad I have two other throttles lying around so I could make sure I put it back together correctly.



I modified the attachment bracket for the oil level sensor connector. For an E32 it mounts on the back side of the motor mount (because the motor mount on that car is further forward. So on the E28 it's flipped around. I drilled a new hole so it would clear the oil filter housing.

[tig]

Steering box mounted to refurbished subframe.



When I pulled the 140A alternator apart I found that this thingy (called "CONDESER" in the parts diagram) was falling apart. The plastic housing had deteriorated and the soldier joint was hanging on by a thread. I re-soldiered it and used F4 tape to re-insulate it. Now I'm *really* glad I pulled this alternator apart because that part was THIS close to failing.



Plus, it just LOOKS FRAKING FANTASTIC!





If I were anal retentive or had even mild OCD I would have used new screws, or gotten the old ones plated.

I'm gonna take it up to the auto parts store to get it tested to ensure I didn't break anything or screw something up putting it back together. Better safe than sorry.

[tig]

I've lost my flywheel. If anyone knows where I set it, I'd appreciate you telling me. Kthxbai.

[tig]

I got the parts for cooling the alternator. Elbow & flex pipe go with an E32. Headlight backing is from the left side on an 528e.

I'll need to make the hole in the headlight backing a little bigger for the pip to fit, and as long as it's long enough I think it'll work great. Won't know for sure until motor is in the car.



Started putting everything on the engine. I was waiting for a few parts and now am unblocked.









Getting to this point was a huge amount of work for me today. I had to re-wrap some wires, struggle with how the fuel rail/injector electrical harness, etc all went on. Then realized I failed to put the hose from the ICV the intake manifold in and needed to remove it all again.

The stuff up top (AFM etc...) is just test fit with one or two nuts in place for now.

Next step will be the small vacuum and fuel lines.

Question: On the breather pipe from the rubber piece between the throttle and AFM that goes to the valve cover there's a little nipple. The parts diagram does not show this nipple. The E32 this motor came off of didn't have an AFM so I don't have a picture of where it was connected. Whelp!?!?

Thanks.

[e28Sean]

Wow.

[Kyle in NO]

The nipple from the breather pipe connects to the underside of the intake manifold, along with the FPR hose and intake temp sensor hose.

[tig]

The nipple from the breather pipe connects to the underside of the intake manifold, along with the FPR hose and intake temp sensor hose.

Thanks Kyle. There are two small nipples and one large on the bottom of intake manifold.

One goes to the nipple on the breather pipe as you indicate.

What is the intake temp sensor? Is it the thingy that is mounted to the bottom of the intake manifold that has a connection to the wiring harness and a nipple on each side (one small & one large)? Parts diagram calls this Fuel Tank Breather Valve. Just to the right of center in the 2nd to last pic above. #17 here:

http://www.realoem.com./bmw/showparts.d ... g=16&fg=10

I think.

Looks like the large nipple goes to the large nipple under the intake maninfold? I'm guessing the small one goes to the charcoal canister.

Then the 2nd small nipple on the bottom of the manifold is connected to the FPR.

Right? I've been wrenching non-stop all day and am fading, so appreciate your help even more.

I take it "FPR hose" means "vacuum hose to the FPR"?

[DJM1986-5]

The FPR regulator vacuum hose goes to one small nipple. The other small nipple is used to connect inside temp sensor.the goes to the drivers footwell. The fuel tank valve large side connects to the intake manifold just below throttle body. The small side goes to the charcoal cannister. I used vacuum line for this connection to the cannister and used a 1/8 to 1/4 inch plastic tube fitting to connect the vacuum line to the fuel line at the cannister. Looks 'factory" and is much easier to run smaller vacuum line. I attached the valve under the manifold to the manifold support bracket bolt using the small L bracket for that valve. Again, looks factory plus the harness and hoses all run easily to this location and it's up and out of the way. I should have taken pictures but was beating the clock on getting my build ready for the Vintage in Winston Salem. Hope this helps...
oh, I plugged the nipple on the breather hose from the valve cover to the intake plenum. I ran out of intake manifold vacuum connections and the other two...fpr and internal temp sensor require vacuum feeds. The breather hose was least important in my opinion.

[Kyle in NO]

Yes, I meant the vacuum hose for the FPR. Also, interior temp sensor, not intake temp. It's been a long day...