MyE28.com

trevmmeister wrote:Oh awesome! Congratulations to him, I just graduated high school myself last month. Good to hear, where is the list of parts that are being coated again? Forget what page that was on.

From memory:

• Subframe (black)
• Air filter housing (black) (i'll probably sell this)
• Oil filter housing
• Alternator housing
• Thermostat housing
• ICV bracket
• throttle body
• A spare B34 intake manifold; I'll sell it

cek wrote:

trevmmeister wrote:Oh awesome! Congratulations to him, I just graduated high school myself last month. Good to hear, where is the list of parts that are being coated again? Forget what page that was on.

From memory:

• Subframe (black)
• Air filter housing (black) (i'll probably sell this)
• Oil filter housing
• Alternator housing
• Thermostat housing
• ICV bracket
• throttle body
• A spare B34 intake manifold; I'll sell it

How much will you be selling the intake and air filter housing for? I will be rebuilding my M30B34 soon(head/crank/pistons) but i will probably just clean my head/cover/block/oil pan.

What did you use to clean the wheel wells and such?

jodystevens wrote:What did you use to clean the wheel wells and such?

Getting cosmoline off can be a real bitch. I spent DOZENS of hours on the 911. I used a combination of diesel, P21S Total Auto Wash, various degreasers, and a LOT of elbow grease.

I have since found that a steam cleaner can go a long way towards helping. But you have to be patient.

I found this thread useful:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche- ... t-off.html

cek wrote:

jodystevens wrote:What did you use to clean the wheel wells and such?

Getting cosmoline off can be a real bitch. I spent DOZENS of hours on the 911. I used a combination of diesel, P21S Total Auto Wash, various degreasers, and a LOT of elbow grease.

I have since found that a steam cleaner can go a long way towards helping. But you have to be patient.

I found this thread useful:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche- ... t-off.html

I just got lost in there. Thank you.

I think I found the firewall insulation I'm going to use.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PI ... =ceklog-20



A quick wipe with Wurth Clean Solve takes the logo right off:



It's thinner than the OEM stuff, but actually sturdier.

I have some 1/4" thick neophrene insulation I found too.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ID ... UTF8&psc=1



I think I'll put it under the Thermo-Tec stuff to get back to the OEM material's thickness. It's closed-cell rubber and even though theres' no heat rating for it, since it will be behind the Thermo-Tec it should work great for additional noise insulation.

In other news, got all the stuff back from powder coating. As usually Powdervision did a great job.



The strut bar came out great. I considered doing it black, but think the aluminum will look sweet.





It is now just slightly more OcCoupe worthy:



I had them powder coat the intake manifold that came off the donor motor just to make it more valuable for selling; to recoup some of the powdercoating costs. Who wants it? $200.

Glad I have two other throttles lying around so I could make sure I put it back together correctly.



I modified the attachment bracket for the oil level sensor connector. For an E32 it mounts on the back side of the motor mount (because the motor mount on that car is further forward. So on the E28 it's flipped around. I drilled a new hole so it would clear the oil filter housing.

Steering box mounted to refurbished subframe.



When I pulled the 140A alternator apart I found that this thingy (called "CONDESER" in the parts diagram) was falling apart. The plastic housing had deteriorated and the soldier joint was hanging on by a thread. I re-soldiered it and used F4 tape to re-insulate it. Now I'm *really* glad I pulled this alternator apart because that part was THIS close to failing.



Plus, it just LOOKS FRAKING FANTASTIC!





If I were anal retentive or had even mild OCD I would have used new screws, or gotten the old ones plated.

I'm gonna take it up to the auto parts store to get it tested to ensure I didn't break anything or screw something up putting it back together. Better safe than sorry.

I've lost my flywheel. If anyone knows where I set it, I'd appreciate you telling me. Kthxbai.

I got the parts for cooling the alternator. Elbow & flex pipe go with an E32. Headlight backing is from the left side on an 528e.

I'll need to make the hole in the headlight backing a little bigger for the pip to fit, and as long as it's long enough I think it'll work great. Won't know for sure until motor is in the car.



Started putting everything on the engine. I was waiting for a few parts and now am unblocked.









Getting to this point was a huge amount of work for me today. I had to re-wrap some wires, struggle with how the fuel rail/injector electrical harness, etc all went on. Then realized I failed to put the hose from the ICV the intake manifold in and needed to remove it all again.

The stuff up top (AFM etc...) is just test fit with one or two nuts in place for now.

Next step will be the small vacuum and fuel lines.

Question: On the breather pipe from the rubber piece between the throttle and AFM that goes to the valve cover there's a little nipple. The parts diagram does not show this nipple. The E32 this motor came off of didn't have an AFM so I don't have a picture of where it was connected. Whelp!?!?

Thanks.

Wow.

The nipple from the breather pipe connects to the underside of the intake manifold, along with the FPR hose and intake temp sensor hose.

Kyle in NO wrote:The nipple from the breather pipe connects to the underside of the intake manifold, along with the FPR hose and intake temp sensor hose.

Thanks Kyle. There are two small nipples and one large on the bottom of intake manifold.

One goes to the nipple on the breather pipe as you indicate.

What is the intake temp sensor? Is it the thingy that is mounted to the bottom of the intake manifold that has a connection to the wiring harness and a nipple on each side (one small & one large)? Parts diagram calls this Fuel Tank Breather Valve. Just to the right of center in the 2nd to last pic above. #17 here:

http://www.realoem.com./bmw/showparts.d ... g=16&fg=10

I think.

Looks like the large nipple goes to the large nipple under the intake maninfold? I'm guessing the small one goes to the charcoal canister.

Then the 2nd small nipple on the bottom of the manifold is connected to the FPR.

Right? I've been wrenching non-stop all day and am fading, so appreciate your help even more.

I take it "FPR hose" means "vacuum hose to the FPR"?

The FPR regulator vacuum hose goes to one small nipple. The other small nipple is used to connect inside temp sensor.the goes to the drivers footwell. The fuel tank valve large side connects to the intake manifold just below throttle body. The small side goes to the charcoal cannister. I used vacuum line for this connection to the cannister and used a 1/8 to 1/4 inch plastic tube fitting to connect the vacuum line to the fuel line at the cannister. Looks 'factory" and is much easier to run smaller vacuum line. I attached the valve under the manifold to the manifold support bracket bolt using the small L bracket for that valve. Again, looks factory plus the harness and hoses all run easily to this location and it's up and out of the way. I should have taken pictures but was beating the clock on getting my build ready for the Vintage in Winston Salem. Hope this helps...
oh, I plugged the nipple on the breather hose from the valve cover to the intake plenum. I ran out of intake manifold vacuum connections and the other two...fpr and internal temp sensor require vacuum feeds. The breather hose was least important in my opinion.

Yes, I meant the vacuum hose for the FPR. Also, interior temp sensor, not intake temp. It's been a long day...

I knew what you meant but figured I'd add clarification for cek and future reference.

cek wrote: Question: there's a little nipple. show this nipple.

Kyle in NO wrote:The nipple

cek wrote:Thanks Kyle. two small nipples. goes to the nipple. a nipple on each side. the large nipple. 2nd small nipple

DJM1986-5 wrote:one small nipple. other small nipple. vacuum. beating the clock. I plugged the nipple

Guys. Come on. Family-friendly site here. c;

I think my flywheel is still at my machinist, who was to check its balance. At least that's what occurred to me at about 3am this morning.

Happy Father's day to all you dads.

I have figured out what each coolant hose is for. I think. I'm not as confident on which end goes where though, particularly for the smaller lines that go to the heater and heater control valve. I'm missing the tee (and I don't want to pull it off of Vlad's B34 because those hoses are relatively new and I'd like to leave them intact), so I can't hook everything up today as I had hoped.





Question: The B35 fuel rail has the fuel inlet facing the front of the engine. How is the fuel line supposed to be routed? Down through the middle space on the intake manifold and then back to the supply? Anyone have a pic of a B35 with this detail showing?

While you all work on answering my previous question, I'm sorting out how to mount my IE AFR.

The B34 intake manifold has some mount points that were sorta convenient. The B35 doesn't.

I'm considering getting rid of the hose between the AFR and the fuel-rail mounty thing and finding some brass fittings that would allow me to just mount it directly. One less hose with clamps to deal with and should be low enough to clear the hood. Good idea? Bad idea?

Why do you need an adjustable FPR? You're going to run a WAR chip, right?

wkohler wrote:Why do you need an adjustable FPR? You're going to run a WAR chip, right?

Maybe. But initially I'm running the stock 179 ECU and AFM. Since this is a high-comp engine with 24lb injectors, Paul Burke recommended that I have an AFPR, at least initially. I also have a wide band gauge (actually two).

Okay. I've got a friend that had three of those fail before he ditched them and got the war chip, 24# injectors, a stock regulator and a dyno tune. He said the tuning was best money he had spent on the car.

Motor looks great, btw.

wkohler wrote:Okay. I've got a friend that had three of those fail before he ditched them and got the war chip, 24# injectors, a stock regulator and a dyno tune. He said the tuning was best money he had spent on the car.

Motor looks great, btw.

As soon as I have it broken in, I'm taking it in for a dyno tune and will likely got with a War chip at that point.

I started with the 1/4" neoprene for sound deadening. It doesn't matter that it's not cut perfectly because the Thermo-tec will go over it



Turned out great!



I ended up doing more of the driver's side because....well why not?

The insulation on this fuel cooler thingy was shot. Since I have headers and they get super hot I felt it was worth while replacing the insulation. I started with some pipe insulation...



Then wrapped it in Thermo-tec; you can see it blurry on the left of this pic.



Now the subframe goes back on...

Subframe in.



That's all the Father's day Gods will let me get done today, I think. Have to go to a grad party for someone else's kid.

Is there anything special or different that needs to be done when adjusting the valves on a brand new head? Just standard cold procedure?

cek wrote:Is there anything special or different that needs to be done when adjusting the valves on a brand new head? Just standard cold procedure?

I'm not certain that torquing the head down doesn't change things a bit, so I'd suggest the final adjustment after the head is bolted down tight. Other than that it's the same.

I am pretty sure the head gasket comes with instructions on the torque procedures. It will usually includes a final torque after initial start-up and a heat cycle. Adjust the valves before the first start-up and then again after it cools down completely (overnight).

pldlnr wrote:I am pretty sure the head gasket comes with instructions on the torque procedures. It will usually includes a final torque after initial start-up and a heat cycle. Adjust the valves before the first start-up and then again after it cools down completely (overnight).

The second adjustment is not necessary IMO, and I've done a bunch.

Mike W. wrote:

pldlnr wrote:I am pretty sure the head gasket comes with instructions on the torque procedures. It will usually includes a final torque after initial start-up and a heat cycle. Adjust the valves before the first start-up and then again after it cools down completely (overnight).

The second adjustment is not necessary IMO, and I've done a bunch.

You are probably right, Mike. I tend to be a little extra cautious with things like this.

Thanks guys.

With the exception of a new CTS and block-off plugs for the t-stat housing, the valve adjustment completes the motor itself. Those parts should be here tomorrow.

My next wrench session will be to re-assemble the steering components. When that's done we'll roll the car into the driveway and drop the engine in and then roll it back onto the lift. I think I need to find a transmission jack for the next step...

I can smell the finish line!

Oh, just as I say that, I remember I haven't sorted the C101 connector for the wiring harness yet. I originally was going to do it with the harness separate from the engine, then I realized that I'd likely get the length of something wrong and have to re-do something after it was in the car.

So my plan is to sort out the harness after the engine is set in the car. This will really just be a matter of routing the relay wires from where they currently are near the ECU to where they should be at the fusebox. I am going wire the C101 pig-tail I have from my donor M30B34 directly to the new harness and not use an intermediate 20X connector. I'll wrap it all nice and purdy using F4 tape. It'll be a little tedious doing this while the engine's in the car, but I really want to make sure everything fits since I've never done this before. Maybe I'm just being paranoid and I should just do it while it's out of the car.

Other things I know I have to do:

• Connect cooling hoses and put radiator back in.
• Figure out how I'm going to mount the B35 coil.
• Attach headers. May do this before I drop engine in. I bought 35mm studs so it will be slightly easier to do than before either way.
• Figure out how to secure the B35 air filter housing. I may wait to do this and just use my newly powder coated B34 housing initially. I really do want the cleaner looking B35 housing in there in the end though.
• Drop in the new in-tank fuel pump.
• Install short-shift kit.
• Install lightened & balanced flywheel and new clutch.
• Install rebuilt driveshaft.
• Reinstall exhaust. (once the car is drivable I'm taking it into a shop and having the exhaust rebuilt)
• Fill fluids. Bleed brakes, PS, clutch.
• Remember to tighten steering column nut (I have a piece of tape on the dashboard where I wrote "don't forget steering nut!").
• Cross fingers and start it up. 20 minutes, then re-torque head bolts.

I'm sure there's more. It's time I start really driving a punch list though. Any help you guys can give in flushing it out greatly appreciated.

I know you all were wondering if I'd ever find my flywheel.

Well I did.



It was at the machinists...

This is for a B35 O2 sensor, right?

cek wrote:This is for a B35 O2 sensor, right?

Correct.

cek wrote:I know you all were wondering if I'd ever find my flywheel.

Well I did.



It was at the machinists...

How much did they lighten that forya? (Final weight?)

The flywheel is 17lbs.

I spent almost all day fighting with the wiring harness. I realized that there were two ways I could do it: 1) Just blindly follow the FAQ and cut & splice quickly or 2) Make sure every wire was done correctly and that I understood what went where.

I'm glad I took my time because I've learned a ton. I still have some questions, but it's slowly going together.

Here's where I started. On the bottom right is the C101 pig-tail from the donor B34.



This is C103 by the glove box. The engine speed sensor (small black wire) in harness needs to go to pin 1. The White/Black wire from the harness goes to Pin 3. Pin 4 is from the AC switch and goes to pins 40/41 on the ECU (although I'm still verifying this is absolutely correct). To make this all work, I pulled a male C103 connector from my donor B34 harness and 'upgraded' it with a pin in slot 4.





I need to get a B35 O2 sensor plug. I won't need this while I'm running the wideband gauge, but after the rig is tuned, I'll want to go back to stock sensor.



On E32/E34 harnesses the relays are by the ECU, and there's nowhere to mount them securely in the glove box. So I need to re-route those connections to the other end of the harness by the C101. It turns out that the green/violet lines that go to 87 on the fuel pump relay can all be removed from the B35 harness, except the small one that goes through the part above the fuel rail and down to the O2 sensor connector. I re-routed it and spliced it in.





Things should go more quickly now that I've got everything decoded and my confidence in what goes where is up....

Fun stuff. Just a few wires left that I'm not quite sure about.

Butt connectors. Rule.


I don't have the nice hard plastic covers BMW used to cover their butt connectors, but seems like F4 tape does a nice job.



On the bottom right you can see the wires that I'm not sure what to do with. Some are fine, but...

- Green. Comes from 86 on main relay. OBC Relay Box. Seems important. ?!?!?

- Green/Blue. From O2 sensor heater relay. ?!?!?!

On the harness side, I have the black/white that comes from the ECU as "Speed Signal Input". Supposed to go to instrument cluster. But I don't think the E28 speedo has an output. So I think this remains unconnected!?!?

cek wrote: On e32/e34 harnesses the relays are by the ECU, and there's nowhere to mount them securely in the glove box.

Fixed