Vlad: The Zinno '87 535is

[cddallara]

I seem to have developed a serious condition. Anyone know if there is a scientific/medical term for it?



I have my eyes on a set of Alpinas as well. And I lust for Hartge too.

You seem to be developing a bad case of wheelfortitis, sometimes referred to as kholeritis.

There is no cure, just go with it. The stronger you try to fight it, the worse (better? ) it gets...

[tig]

Updated car details:

• 1987 BMW 535is - Built September 9, 1986
• WBADC7401H0964420
• Zinnoberrot (Cinnabar) on black
• Delivered to first owner in Orange, CA February 27, 1988
• Sold to 2nd owner in Santa Barbara, CA October 6, 2000 @ 87,525 miles
• Sold to 3rd owner (me) in Bellevue, WA April 5, 2013 @ 171,000 miles
• Now just shy of 175,000 miles.

Updates/Tweaks:

• Conforti chip
• 740iL calipers (painted red), ATE power rotors, 740iL master cylinder, Akebono ceramic pads, stainless hoses
• 3.23 limited slip differential (from a 2003 M Coupe)
• Style 8 wheels (16x7.5" ET15) from an 840ci - 225/50-R16 RE760 tires
• BBS RX223 (16x8" ET15) wheels - Continental Extreme Contact DW 225/50-R16 tires
• BBS RS Staggered 005s and 006s (16x7 ET11 /16x8 ET24). Not mounted yet.
• Rolled rear fenders
• Cibie headlights, H4 80/100w, H1 100w, with upgraded wiring, relays and fuses
• Motorsport Series strut brace
• H&R Springs
• Bilstein Sport shocks
• K-MAC Stage 1 street front adjustable camber kit
• K-MAC Rear camber & toe kit
• Powerflex rear subframe bushings
• Custom installed 2-port USB power plugs
• Custom hard-wired Valentine 1 radar detector install
• Pioneer CD/MP3/Bluetooth head unit, big ass amplifier, and subwoofer (PO)
• ///M shift knob
• Shadowline conversion (in progress)
• Bavarian Auto ceramic coated headers
• Ireland Engineering exhaust

In progress or planned upgrades:

• Shadowline kit (faux vinyl tape based kit installed, real kit acquired, just not installed)
• M30B35 motor from an '88 735i (acquired, currently rebuilding for funzies).
• Pelican Parts clutch kit (incl. Sachs clutch; acquired; will go in with M30B35)
• Lightweight flywheel (acquired)
• E34 Sport seats; will recover with black & red leather ([bold]WTB Badly[/bold])
• Upgrade of dash, center console, etc... with red & black leather.
• Euro bumper conversion (WTB)

Current gremlins & annoyances:

• Surging/rough idle/stall at idle. FIXED w/ new AFM.
• Hesitation/stall right after cold start. Minor but annoying.
• Voltage drop to accessories on brake light (and headlight) activation; causes radar detector to reboot
• Driver's seat rocks badly
• As predicted by certain know-it-alls on this forum the hot glue holding my über cool USB adapter didn't hold

[VW+bimmer=bliss]

Ya know, once I removed the evaporative emission system, my car ran so much better
also the air bypass screw in the AFM has an o-ring in it; I have come across a broken one before and causes all sorts of headaches.
Maybe a really loose dipstick?
Just some things that come to mind.

Also, ALL of the grounds are clean? Regulator in the alt. good?

Car is gawgess

[tig]

Ya know, once I removed the evaporative emission system, my car ran so much better
also the air bypass screw in the AFM has an o-ring in it; I have come across a broken one before and causes all sorts of headaches.

Will check that. Thanks.

Maybe a really loose dipstick?

I am not a dipstick, you jerk. (I checked that already).

Just some things that come to mind.

Also, ALL of the grounds are clean?

Triple checked.

Regulator in the alt. good?

Replaced. Happens even when the engine is not running.

Car is gawgess

I think so too! Thanks.

[LarryM]

I haven't the time to read through this entire thread, but have you checked to see what kind of plugs are in the engine? I just bought an '87 535is and discovered someone had installed Bosch platinum-tip plugs; I replaced them with Silvers (along with a new O2 sensor) and the idle smoothed out considerably.

Oh, BTW: Of the wheels you've accumulated the BBS RS are, IMO, the keepers. My car's PO wisely purchased brand-new E28 M5 wheels (also a good choice); RS's are the ONLY wheels I'd consider replacing them with.

[austinmdpedi]

I am not a mechanic but had a similar stalling issue with my '88 E24 M6. Ended up being a vacuum problem. Cured with resurfacing of valves / seats. Took forever to figure out after replacing MAF sensor, Idle Control Valve, and several hundred dollars of other stuff.

Not sure if this is your issue but might be worth checking out.

[tig]

I am obviously very, very sick.

The very nice FedEx man dropped these off today.

[Drew in NYC]

I am obviously very, very sick.

The very nice FedEx man dropped these off today.

Nice going. Now I think you can finally sell those Style 8s that had come on the car (unless you already have).

[tig]

I am obviously very, very sick.

The very nice FedEx man dropped these off today.

Nice going. Now I think you can finally sell those Style 8s that had come on the car (unless you already have).

Yes, I am.

Haven't had time to list them though. Not quite sure what people are willing to pay. They seem pretty rare. Feel free to make me an offer... What's the worst that can happen?

[tig]

Working on the ground-fault problem.

This is where I see a voltage-drop on (all/most?) ignition-switched circuits when certain other circuits (brake pedal, headlights) are on. The voltage drops from ~13V to about ~11V.

Showing voltage drop:



Normally this would just be annoying in that it just causes the LCD in the OBC to dim. The PO spent a huge amount of time trying to diagnose and fix. He thought it was the brake light circuit and ended up installing additional relays for the brake lights...which didn't fix the problem. I've since ripped all his crap out. He checked all the ground points, etc... too.

But for me it is more than annoying because it causes my Valentine 1 Radar Detector to reboot every time I hit the brakes.

Someone suggested it may be the power the stereo. I have disconnected the stereo; no joy.

While I'm diagnosing I'm cleaning up PO messes. One is the following. This is coming out of the left side of the center console, just to the right of the OBC. This connector is not hooked up to anything and does not look OEM.



From left to right in this picture:

- Purple/white is 12V ignition-switched (shows V drop)
- Brown - ground
- Brown/white - ground
- Red/white 12V always-on (never shows V drop).

Anyone know what this circuit was intended for. I tried finding it in the ETM, but haven't been able to.

Note, coming in on the RIGHT side of the center console, near the glove box is the following rat's nest. All of these correspond to what I see in the ETM:

[tig]

After cleaning up all the stereo power wiring and verifying that with nothing connected the voltage drop still occurs I put the center console back together.

I did change my Valentine 1 to be wired to the other set of wires (the ones in the pic above) instead of the same ones powering the head unit.

Still have the voltage drop. Blah.

I was really hoping this would be it.

[cddallara]

I'm viewing on a phone, but that connector looks like the same type for an analog dash clock (or e30 power mirror).

[tig]

While I'm diagnosing I'm cleaning up PO messes. One is the following. This is coming out of the left side of the center console, just to the right of the OBC. This connector is not hooked up to anything and does not look OEM.



From left to right in this picture:

- Purple/white is 12V ignition-switched (shows V drop)
- Brown - ground
- Brown/white - ground
- Red/white 12V always-on (never shows V drop).

From the ETM and the Digital Clock I just happened to have bought I have figured out that this is what this connector is for. Not sure that the brown/white is actually ground. I suspect it may go to the active check system as that is a typical brown/white wire...

Note the ETM barely mentions the digital clock. This connector is not in any of the diagrams.

Another thread (once I knew this was for the digital clock Search helped) points out:

purple/white - hot in accy, run, or start - fuse #12 - 8 amp
red/white - hot at all times from fuse #5 - 8 amp
brown - ground
brown/ white ?? - this one is the key.

Good to know.

[tig]

Something else I learned today:

There is actually an ETM for the '87/88 535i & M5. Previously I had only found an ETM for 87/88 528 and assumed that was as good as it got. Just goes to re-enforce what assume means.

Here: http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm

Now let's see if it makes the job easier.

[tig]

Holy sh** I think these look great.

Definitely keepers.











Just a quick 2 min evening drive before wifey called for dinner so no commentary on whether I agree with wkohler on staggered vs. square yet.

[wkohler]

Alpinas? You're going nuts.

They look nice.

[tig]

Alpinas? You're going nuts.

They look nice.

Well, I really bought these for the E9 I will someday own and restore.

[kzolee]

Holy sh** I think these look great.

Definitely keepers.

T-Shirt also.

[Schnitzel]

Those wheels MAKE the car. Nice upgrade! I am still looking for a set just like those for my 535is.

[Drew in NYC]

The wheels look great (as is to be expected), BUT, one almost wishes the car wasn't shadowlined now. I think chrome better suits the nature of the wheels.

In any case, good score.

[tig]

one almost wishes

Whom is this 'one' you doth speak of? Isth he The One?

[unt0uchable]

Holy sh** I think these look great.

I agree.

[/url]

Best photo yet!

[Adam W in MN]

Looks great, and yes you are going nuts!

[leadphut]

What are ya crazy!?! Keep the shadowline, but get the euro bumpers on.

Your car finally looks good! chicken f*&ker

[tig]

What are ya crazy!?! Keep the shadowline, but get the euro bumpers on.

Shadowline ain't going nowhere. And euro bumpers will come, in due time. However, the highest priority $$$ thing is to replace the rocking chair with E34 Sport Seats.

Your car finally looks good! chicken f*&ker

Thanks. I think.