Vlad: The Zinno '87 535is
Re: Vlad has new (Alpina) shoes
T-Shirt also.cek wrote:Holy sh** I think these look great.
Definitely keepers.
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Re: Vlad has new (Alpina) shoes
I agree.cek wrote:Holy sh** I think these look great.
Best photo yet!...and he also wrote:[/url]
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Shadowline ain't going nowhere. And euro bumpers will come, in due time. However, the highest priority $$$ thing is to replace the rocking chair with E34 Sport Seats.leadphut wrote:What are ya crazy!?! Keep the shadowline, but get the euro bumpers on.
Thanks. I think.Your car finally looks good! chicken f*&ker
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Shadowline is more of a modern look; these wheels are not. As the car currently sits, my opinion is that the BBS RX that were on the car previously were the best match. Of course, to each his own.leadphut wrote:What are ya crazy!?! Keep the shadowline, but get the euro bumpers on.
I never thought the day would come where I'd actually be defending chrome (I love shadowline), but here we are.
I disagree with this. My '88 911 is "shadowline". Shadowline was an option on '80's BMWs. Now, it appears to me that Alpina wasn't a 'shadowline' shop, so if you want to argue that Alpina intended these wheels to go with brightwork, I won't disagree. But Vlad car has no illusions of being an Alpina. He desires to be a daily driver that Charlie loves to drive and look at.Drew in NYC wrote:Shadowline is more of a modern look; these wheels are not.
In the end it is all subjective. I want Vlad to be sans-brightwork. I think these wheels look amazing as he sits. In fact, I think that I need to get the silver strip on the door guards painted black ASAP.
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Vlad now has upgraded tail/brake lights thanks to rwd535 (http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=109181).
Before:
After:
PO had already done a half-bit version of this upgrade, but I had ripped his stuff out. This kit is a far better solution.
Before:
After:
PO had already done a half-bit version of this upgrade, but I had ripped his stuff out. This kit is a far better solution.
I don't understand what the big deal is. On my M-Sport my winter wheels were throwing stars. It's not like I'm going off-roading. Just putting good snow/ice tires on.jay wrote:You may be the first person to ever say that!cek wrote:The RSs will be my winter wheels
Wheel fort. I like!The new Alpina wheels look amazing. It's the perfect wheel for this car. Congrats. Keep building your wheel fort though.
Spent time today on the voltage drop issue.
I tore into the fuse box, determined to rule anything in that area out as a culprit. Based on this I'm pretty sure it is not related the fuse box. In the process I checked all wires. There's two PO implemented hacks within. One looks abandoned with an old splice connector in place with nothing coming from it. The other is part of his upgrade to higher output headlights. Both of these are are solid. I also cleaned all of my relay contacts and put dialectric grease on them.
I still haven't found the source of the problem, but I think I uncovered another clue:
If I remove any one of the three brake bulbs the problem goes away. I'm considering driving without a rear center brake light as a short term fix! (kidding).
Could this problem be somehow related to the Active Check system? I spoke with the PO today and he said he had replaced the light active check module by the mirror in his attempts to fix this problem (he suspected something similar). He had also shorted the coil-thingies in the rear brake light relay (but did NOT short the one found in the center brake light module). I've since removed his shorting wires...
(Remember, he had gone as far as wiring in a separate relay for the rear brake lights in the trunk trying to get around this issue...that didn't help and I've ripped all that out).
The confusing thing is that, while I continue to focus on something related to the brake lights, because it causes the most dramatic voltage drop, I do see a lesser voltage drop from some other circuits such as the blinkers/hazards (these do not cause the radar detector to reboot).
FWIW, I *am* going to rewire my stereo power/USB adapter/radar detector to work off the accessory fuse box connector . I have verified that the switched connector on there does not suffer the voltage drop. But that will only work around the underlying issue.
I tore into the fuse box, determined to rule anything in that area out as a culprit. Based on this I'm pretty sure it is not related the fuse box. In the process I checked all wires. There's two PO implemented hacks within. One looks abandoned with an old splice connector in place with nothing coming from it. The other is part of his upgrade to higher output headlights. Both of these are are solid. I also cleaned all of my relay contacts and put dialectric grease on them.
I still haven't found the source of the problem, but I think I uncovered another clue:
If I remove any one of the three brake bulbs the problem goes away. I'm considering driving without a rear center brake light as a short term fix! (kidding).
Could this problem be somehow related to the Active Check system? I spoke with the PO today and he said he had replaced the light active check module by the mirror in his attempts to fix this problem (he suspected something similar). He had also shorted the coil-thingies in the rear brake light relay (but did NOT short the one found in the center brake light module). I've since removed his shorting wires...
(Remember, he had gone as far as wiring in a separate relay for the rear brake lights in the trunk trying to get around this issue...that didn't help and I've ripped all that out).
The confusing thing is that, while I continue to focus on something related to the brake lights, because it causes the most dramatic voltage drop, I do see a lesser voltage drop from some other circuits such as the blinkers/hazards (these do not cause the radar detector to reboot).
FWIW, I *am* going to rewire my stereo power/USB adapter/radar detector to work off the accessory fuse box connector . I have verified that the switched connector on there does not suffer the voltage drop. But that will only work around the underlying issue.
Shit.
I seem to have made things worse.
Driving in to work this morning the "Check" light came on multiple times (with Brake Light lit on Active Check). Hitting brakes turned it off...for a few minutes...then it would come back on again.
I think that's probably due to me removing the jumpers the PO had put on the reed switches in the rear brake active check relay box.
However... My blinkers stopped working (and then started working again) several times. I think the windshield washers went off line too (I was so flummoxed I'm not sure).
I'm guessing I screwed something up putting the fuse box back together.
I seem to have made things worse.
Driving in to work this morning the "Check" light came on multiple times (with Brake Light lit on Active Check). Hitting brakes turned it off...for a few minutes...then it would come back on again.
I think that's probably due to me removing the jumpers the PO had put on the reed switches in the rear brake active check relay box.
However... My blinkers stopped working (and then started working again) several times. I think the windshield washers went off line too (I was so flummoxed I'm not sure).
I'm guessing I screwed something up putting the fuse box back together.