MyE28.com DEV

I adjusted the valves on the eta this morning for grins, since I had the fan off. All ready for spring now.

dsmith wrote:I adjusted the valves on the eta this morning for grins, since I had the fan off. All ready for spring now.

Apparently I don't know crap about tha M20 because that sounds like "I had the differential out so I changed the water pump for grins."

With the fan off, you can easily put a wrench on the crank nut. To adjust the valves, you need to remove the fan unless you have a remote to bump the starter to move the motor. I prefer to do everything by hand since I don't like to hurry when adjusting valves. You have to remove the fan to change the water pump, too so...

wkohler wrote:With the fan off, you can easily put a wrench on the crank nut. To adjust the valves, you need to remove the fan unless you have a remote to bump the starter to move the motor. I prefer to do everything by hand since I don't like to hurry when adjusting valves. You have to remove the fan to change the water pump, too so...

Ahhhhhhhhh.....

I pull the plugs, shift to neutral and am able to spin the engine with the acc belts. At least the last time I did it.

Correct on the access to the crank bolt. I didn't want to pull the plugs. This engine has more valve train noise than others I've had and I just wanted to double check clearances. I replaced injectors last year with new BMW injectors too.

The crank makes it a bit more consistent as the lobe moves out of view. Several ways to skin a cat.

Thanks for the reminder, I should charge the battery

Put the herd out to pasture… and started the "but it's green" e28 project.



Interior removal first

Ordered new front calipers and hoses to correct a pulling issue I can't find under braking.

All the components look to be fine front and rear, pads and rotors are new as of June.

If this doesn't fix it, I'll do the rears and know I have a brand new brake system all around, apart from the master/brake bomb/accumulator.

Oh, and I put my snow tires back on, and they are there to stay until April.

And now Michigan decides it's gonna be 50+ outside. Not gonna complain, but the rain this morning was pretty heavy, and my visibility was pretty bad. Need new headlights.

We will see if my 'cleaned out' sunroof drains are working, or if I get rained on at lunch, or if the floor is wet. I'm hoping the former.

Got some parts in the mail that will be getting addressed over Christmas break. Rear subframe bushings, trans mounts, CSB, guibo, diff + trans fluid, oil, and one or two other things I have forgotten are in the box now.

Installed B35 Starter. Lucky for me, the top bolt required just finger strength to break loose. Judging from the factory rebuilt BMW label on the old starter, someone had replaced it already & didn't get the top bolt super tight. Nice writeup on this board was key. Used the 17/19mm box end wrench from tool kit in trunk for most of it. Only detail not mentioned is the new B35 starter needs a ring terminal to replace the push on spade terminal used on the B34 starter, or at least mine did.

Well, it was yesterday, but... Flogged 'er!







Photo credit: Joe Davis

E46 heater valve retro fit, not in it's final mounting place, but close. Removed front power steering fluid cooler & replaced the 2 small chunks of rubber hose, pic is of old hoses before replacing. Replaced power steering pump & belt & Alternator/Fan belt.

Threw in a new alternator

DanOKC wrote:E46 heater valve retro fit, not in it's final mounting place, but close. Removed front power steering fluid cooler & replaced the 2 small chunks of rubber hose, pic is of old hoses before replacing. Replaced power steering pump & belt & Alternator/Fan belt.

Dang Dan… you were busy this weekend! Nice work!
geo

A week ago today Scooter got a new clutch slave,
all documented properly with pics and details on FB.
33 minutes, start to finish.

I'm trying to fix a few broken tabs on my Hartge center caps with Plastex, rehab a glove box flashlight and a dogleg shifter emblem. Those things are pricey!

I received about $900 of under hood parts for the euro. Unfortunately, it's dropping to single digits this weekend, so I'm not sure when that venture will get started.

I drove to Vancouver and picked up a new engine & transmission leveraging the amazing CAD US exchange rate.

cek wrote:I drove to Vancouver and picked up a new engine & transmission leveraging the amazing CAD US exchange rate.

Nice. So how long cleaning it up (since it looks spotless) and what S5X variant is it? Any problems crossing the border with customs?

Mike W. wrote:

cek wrote:I drove to Vancouver and picked up a new engine & transmission leveraging the amazing CAD US exchange rate.

Nice. So how long cleaning it up (since it looks spotless) and what S5X variant is it? Any problems crossing the border with customs?

It's an S54B32 from an 05 M3 with 44kms.

I had to declare it at the border and pay 2.5% duty since I wasn't on Canada more than 48 hours. The customs guy had to call DC or something to figure out how to treat it. But he was nice.

Canada taking it in the shorts. Again and again. Nice score.

q

replaced both thrust arms with mooshead bushings and new lower control arms to help stiffen up the front end. The passenger side bushing was shot and was completely detached from the rubber. Made a horrible clunk and rubbery squeek when braking. Glad to have that sorted out. Moosehead is the way to go!
Next up is the clunk from the rear, which is most likely the axles...

I ordered a trunk gasket and now I'm filled with dread.

cek wrote: I had to declare it at the border and pay 2.5% duty since I wasn't on Canada more than 48 hours.

On Canada? This global warming business is getting serious.

I charged the battery over night and with an assist from my jump pack, it lit. First time in 2 months. It has been parked on the front yard in front of the staging I put up to stain and paint the house. I worked out of the trunk in bits and snatches. I needed to move it so I could take down the staging in comfort. I drove it into the driveway and let it defrost the inch of frozen snow .Then, I moved it over by the shop so I could continue to cook the battery on a 2 amp charge. It isn't road worthy, the brakes and front struts need replacing. My tent garage is almost ready for it.

Panzertank831 wrote:Moosehead is the way to go!

Yes. I get parts occassionally from a local independent shop; the owner called it an 'upgrade,' which it is. But I just consider it standard from now on out.

The PO of my 735i just put new normal ones in and they're not Moosehead. It bothers me seeing those on the car when I'm underneath.

I had to get my glovebox open after the handle / latch mechanism broke. The 'J' metal part.

I carefully broke the plastic handle all the way off and then took a small pair of needle nose pliers and pulled down and out at an angle on the right hand swing arm near the center where the two meet. (The one where the 'J' broke off) The latch disengaged and it popped open.

I am excited that I didn't damage the glovebox except for a very small dent on the top edge of the opening where the handle is.

Now I got to swap key cylinders and re install the replacement.

cfisher

cfisher wrote:I had to get my glovebox open after the handle / latch mechanism broke. The 'J' metal part.

I carefully broke the plastic handle all the way off and then took a small pair of needle nose pliers and pulled down and out at an angle on the right hand swing arm near the center where the two meet. (The one where the 'J' broke off) The latch disengaged and it popped open.

I am excited that I didn't damage the glovebox except for a very small dent on the top edge of the opening where the handle is.

Now I got to swap key cylinders and re install the replacement.

cfisher

My glove box handle has been broken since I got the car and I have to use that little metal "J" every time I want to get something out of the glovebox. How did you/are you going to fix yours?

EventuallyAyrton wrote:

cfisher wrote:I had to get my glovebox open after the handle / latch mechanism broke. The 'J' metal part.

I carefully broke the plastic handle all the way off and then took a small pair of needle nose pliers and pulled down and out at an angle on the right hand swing arm near the center where the two meet. (The one where the 'J' broke off) The latch disengaged and it popped open.

I am excited that I didn't damage the glovebox except for a very small dent on the top edge of the opening where the handle is.

Now I got to swap key cylinders and re install the replacement.

cfisher

My glove box handle has been broken since I got the car and I have to use that little metal "J" every time I want to get something out of the glovebox. How did you/are you going to fix yours?

The little metal "J" thing is what broke on mine and the glovebox would not open. That is why I had to carefully break off the plastic handle with the key lock. Once it was off I used the small needle nose pliers and pulled on the right swing arm which opened both sides and allowed it to open.

Next will be to use circlip pliers to remove the lock in the old handle and transfer it to the new handle unit. Then reinstall.

I cleaned, lubricated door hinges and put some WD 40 after cleaning door lock mechanisms.. Made all the difference... No more squeaky doors and they all lock relatively smoothly now

Sapotorito wrote:I cleaned, lubricated door hinges and put some WD 40 after cleaning door lock mechanisms. Made all the difference.

Did you "lubricate" them with WD-40, or just use it to clean?

John in VA wrote:

Sapotorito wrote:I cleaned, lubricated door hinges and put some WD 40 after cleaning door lock mechanisms. Made all the difference.

Did you "lubricate" them with WD-40, or just use it to clean?

Beat me to it.

Try some TriFlow instead of the WD-40. You can thank me later.