MyE28.com DEV

Posted: **Dec 04, 2017 8:35 PM**

Shawn D. wrote:To implement this, you'll have to add a vacuum solenoid, and depending on how much juice that solenoid needs, a relay to power it.

That was actually my thinking. Your average EGR vacuum solenoid on anything made in the last ~20 years runs on 12v, is normally closed, and is made to handle repeated on/off cycles. I wouldn't think one would draw any more power than the OE heater valve solenoid, in fact it would probably draw less. Best part is, like the valve posted previously, they are all like $20...or perhaps cheaper if you have a junkyard (and can grab the harness too).

For example's sake:

Posted: **Dec 05, 2017 6:13 AM**

SlickDizzy wrote:
Shawn D. wrote:To implement this, you'll have to add a vacuum solenoid, and depending on how much juice that solenoid needs, a relay to power it.
That was actually my thinking. Your average EGR vacuum solenoid on anything made in the last ~20 years runs on 12v, is normally closed, and is made to handle repeated on/off cycles. I wouldn't think one would draw any more power than the OE heater valve solenoid, in fact it would probably draw less. Best part is, like the valve posted previously, they are all like $20...or perhaps cheaper if you have a junkyard (and can grab the harness too).

For example's sake:

Nice find. I'm not as familiar with the "new" cars, so I wasn't aware of that part. I'll be interested in seeing what you come up with!

Posted: **Dec 05, 2017 5:21 PM**

I was contemplating one of these valves. So how many times can the diaphragm cycle before it rips?

Posted: **Dec 05, 2017 8:44 PM**

I would imagine quite a few times given the cycling of EGR on modern vehicles. Either way, if I can move the failure point from the heater valve itself to an external solenoid I would still consider it an improvement. I'll be getting the parts together in the next few weeks and giving it a shot, the Wisconsin winter is a crappy time to do vehicle work but a great time to test heat functions I suppose...

Posted: **Dec 05, 2017 9:22 PM**

SlickDizzy wrote:I would imagine quite a few times given the cycling of EGR on modern vehicles.

I think he was talking about the heater valve, not the solenoid.

Posted: **Dec 05, 2017 10:23 PM**

Ah, now that is a good question. I suppose there’s no good way to know aside from trial and error.

At least there are a much wider variety of vacuum-operated heater valves out there, so there’s bound to be something.

Posted: **Feb 24, 2020 2:27 PM**

Resurrecting this one.

I made up a bracket per the posts from Demetk for my '86 528e. It took a little of trial and error but fits just fine in the end!

Does anyone have a source or part number for the E46 connector to button it up? I've been trying to get on but no one seems to want to go through the effort for such a tiny cheap piece, and I cant find a proper part number to find a new one.

I would rather not hack up the new valve to solder direct if I can get the right connector.

Posted: **Feb 24, 2020 3:40 PM**

Maybe Auto Zone or the like might have a connector? I know they do carry similar ones. Or your local auto salvage yard.

Posted: **Mar 03, 2020 1:26 PM**

williamtii wrote:Resurrecting this one.

I made up a bracket per the posts from Demetk for my '86 528e. It took a little of trial and error but fits just fine in the end!

Does anyone have a source or part number for the E46 connector to button it up? I've been trying to get on but no one seems to want to go through the effort for such a tiny cheap piece, and I cant find a proper part number to find a new one.

I would rather not hack up the new valve to solder direct if I can get the right connector.

Is this the part you’re talking about, p/n 61138365340?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-el ... 1138365340

Posted: **Mar 23, 2020 8:57 PM**

Installed the e46 valve today. Was a bit difficult finding the right combination of hoses. Additionally, the hardlines from the hydroboost system made it impossible to mount the valve to the original mounts as seen in previous posts. So I attached the valve to the hardline with zipties, its attached pretty rigidly and I don't think it will be going anywhere.

I had an e36 heater control valve and the attached hoses laying around and they worked out pretty good for me. For the engine to control valve hose I had to extend it by a few inches as seen here (I used a portion of hose PN 64211394293):

I used hose PN 64211394291, a 90 degree elbow and straight section of heater hose to go from the outlet of the control valve to the inlet of the heater core:

Full assembly ziptied to the hydroboost hardline and wedged under the post on the firewall cover. Its not going anywhere:

I turned the car on and played with the heat settings, I was able to feel the solenoid clicking on and off so I assume its working.

Posted: **Aug 06, 2020 12:43 AM**

I also did this mod with my e24.

Wrote a nice guide about how to do it and how to mount it properly.

http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31889

Posted: **Mar 15, 2021 3:33 PM**

I did this retrofit yesterday to my 88 535i; I have been through 3 brand new valves 64 11 1 373 191 - of which Schmiddmann would not warranty theirs (less than a year old - started leaking) because I did not have any proof I had the work done at a BMW Authorized repair center. Somehow, optimism got the best of me, so I bought one from the local BMW dealership, which promptly leaked and was replaced under warranty even though I installed it. Less than 2 years and it is also leaking but BMW will not warranty their new one. While I thought about taking up FCP Euro on their lifetime warranty, I just am done with leaks and who's to say BMW will have these for the time I still have the car.

So, as luck would have it, I went to LKQ pull a part just as a heavy rain started, but I had a list of around 8-9 cars that would have this valve and chose ones from the cleanest looking cars. I saw this with e30's, BTW, get a valve, bracket and wiring while you can, the yards no longer have 6 to 8 e30's at a given time, but the e46's are there now.

I've installed it but the current plan is to wait for a couple of 7/64" male spade connectors to get here before I do the wiring. But we'll see, I may solder the e46 connector in since I have no plans on going back. I followed "anchored"'s method of cutting of the e46 bracket with tin snips and elongated the holes in the e46 bracket so that with some shorter screws, it mounts to the m30 e28 bracket. I used a sharkbite 1" straight knurled hose coupling that has a perfect fit for the inner hose diameters. Also, there were 2 BMW hoses in my e28 stash that fit the application perfectly: 64 21 1 363 470. I don't know why I had two - you only need one - and cut about an 1 1/2" off the big fluted end, and it seem to be the perfect length to attach to the outlet to the heater core inlet. Correct me if you see I've reverse something, sleep deprivation seems to be a constant for me, and thinking correctly not so much.

Posted: **Mar 16, 2021 10:32 AM**

Glad to see folks are still finding variations on how to mount these! I've had one for a while and intend to mill a new housing to better fit the E28, but just haven't gotten around to it.

Posted: **Mar 20, 2021 2:40 PM**

Shawn D. wrote: Mar 16, 2021 10:32 AM Glad to see folks are still finding variations on how to mount these!

Planning on doing my daily 525e next - should have done it a long time ago, but put in a manually operated VW valve.

Posted: **Aug 18, 2021 4:48 AM**

My 535’s heater has, until about a year ago, been great. Since then it’s been lukewarm to ineffective, and I’ve spent a lot of time on this link. Given the vehicle’s age I assumed it was the heater valve. People’s reported experience with repair kits has put me off, and I got an indicative price of $700 Australian for a BMW-sourced replacement, so I took the E46 path.

When I got the $70 valve, the wrecker had included the connector and about 6” of wiring – thank you Peninsula BM. The wire colours didn’t match the E46 ETM I checked and, bench testing, it worked no matter which way round the positive and negative were connected – no idea why. I also tested it inverted.

It seemed like too hard work to make the complicated plumbing routing others have used to get round the changed flow direction for the valve, so I installed it inverted to keep the inlet to the valve at the top (thanks RonW) as follows:
• hacksaw off the three mounting lugs and file the plastic case smooth so it will fit between the brake hydraulic pipe and the bulkhead
• sort out the wiring connection from the new valve to the existing connection – it’s inaccessible once the valve is in place. I used a connector block so I could check out the function before committing to solder and shrink wrap. If you cut the plug for the old valve off, leave an inch or so of wire so it can be reused if needed.
• from the local parts store get a ¾ inch 90 degree elbow hose and about a foot of ¾ inch straight hose
• remove the old valve, spilling coolant everywhere
• take off the hose from the back of the cylinder head
• remove the hose which connected the valve to the lower of the two heater pipes. You might be able to adapt this – see following – instead of buying the 90 degree elbow.
• disconnect the hose from the front of the engine to the top heater pipe, at the heater and attach it to the lower of the heater pipes. This allows the two hoses into the valve to line up beside each other.
• cut the 90 degree elbow so that it joins the top heater pipe to the lower of the two pipes on the now inverted E46 valve. Set the length so that the valve tucks behind the metal hydraulic pressure pipe.
• Cut the straight ¾ inch hose, to go between the back of the cylinder head and the upper pipe on the valve, a few inches longer than needed. Here’s the only difficult part – the pipe at the back of the cylinder head is slightly large for the ¾ inch hose to fit on easily and it’s very hard to get any purchase towards the end to force it on – reminded me of George Burns’ comment about shooting pool with a rope. I found a 1 inch plastic electric duct pipe which enclosed the hose. Cut the duct pipe a bit shorter than the ¾ inch hose leaving the inch or so to go onto the cylinder head pipe proud. It was then surprisingly easy to push the hose on. Cut the hose to length and connect to the top pipe on the valve.
• Use a zip tie to locate the valve against the hydraulic pipe.

Reversing the connections to the heater core reverses the flow through the heater core - probably time for a reverse flush – the connection from the back of the cylinder head is still connected to the heater valve inlet and the new outlet from the core is still connected to the hose running to the front of the engine. Looking at the photo, I think the valve could be mounted higher up if the lower hose was rotated accordingly.

Testing went ok, except overnight there was a major leak. Couldn’t see where it came from, but tightening all the hose clamps fixed it. All good on a longer test drive. The photo - if the link has worked - shows how simple the hose connections are.

Given what a pain the job was, leaning over and working down the back of the engine compartment, I could handle $150 for an oem valve, but $700?

Constructive criticism appreciated.

Posted: **Aug 18, 2021 9:06 AM**

Looks good, Maaaate!

Posted: **Mar 26, 2022 6:43 AM**

A year later, and the 535i valve has worked great - first time to The Vintage, and a trip up north after that - twice - and it still works good. Like I said before, I should have done this years ago, and never bought the valve kits or the current iteration of the valve from BMW.

The 525e daily, however, is still not shutting off completely. I bought another salvage yard valve just in case, but going to verify the in/out are correct and try again.

I replaced the heater core on the 525e at the beginning of the pandemic and then last year, had to replace the one on the 535i when it started leaking.
Recommendation: if you ever remove a dash board on a car that is new to you, replace the heater core while it's out, then you won't have to remove it again a few years later...

Posted: **Mar 26, 2022 12:42 PM**

Tulsa6 wrote: Mar 26, 2022 6:43 AM ... if you ever remove a dash board on a car that is new to you, replace the heater core while it's out, then you won't have to remove it again a few years later...

Except you don't have to remove the dash to do the heater core, but you do have to remove and discharge the A/C. So if I had working A/C, especially if it was R12 A/C, I would not preemptively do it and blow the charge.

Posted: **Mar 31, 2022 8:05 AM**

Mike W. wrote: Mar 26, 2022 12:42 PM
Tulsa6 wrote: Mar 26, 2022 6:43 AM ... if you ever remove a dash board on a car that is new to you, replace the heater core while it's out, then you won't have to remove it again a few years later...
Except you don't have to remove the dash to do the heater core, but you do have to remove and discharge the A/C. So if I had working A/C, especially if it was R12 A/C, I would not preemptively do it and blow the charge.

Good point Mike; the A/C has been working since 1998 when I had an Sanden style compressor installed and recharged with R12. It had some R12 added 3 years ago when I had it checked, but I did not want to mess with it otherwise.

Some notes on the m20 e46 valve installation since I couldn't find a flow diagram for the e28; the 2nd e46 heater valve seems to be working on it's first road test - no leak through like the first one I used:

m20 - how I installed it - possibly reference flow diagrams from an e30 to determine this but it has been over a year since I configured the install:

bottom of heater core hose to top connection of e46 valve (top was inlet on oem valve)
bottom e46 valve to back of head hose

Posted: **Dec 13, 2022 12:32 AM**

Here's how mine turned out, I used a combination of the solutions in this thread.

The original:

I cut the bracket off from a junkyard wreck and added a piece of sheet metal to the top of it:

Riveted the bracket:

I'm using half of a 528e hose to do the 90 (this is the piece that I cut off):

rear of the head is the standard 535 hose:

I also have the Volvo hose referenced earlier in the thread. It would work as well - Photo's are just to illustrate - I will probably keep using the factory hose, so I haven't worked the hose further down the fitting on the head - which is a tight fit.

Posted: **Dec 26, 2022 12:52 PM**

I'm super glad I came across this thread! When I got my 1987 535is, the heater valve was not there and bypassed. I've been pondering what to do about this. I figured a different valve could be used, so I'll be trying this.

Thanks to everyone who's contributed!

Posted: **Jan 05, 2023 10:09 AM**

Hi guys,

I've decided to do this 'upgrade' (repair, for me), and I decided I'd make some adapters hence I don't like cutting up things and zipties....
Please let me know if you'd need a piece. I'm making 5 units as of now. They'll be laser-cut from 2mm 304 stainless steel. You just put the stock E46 rubber groomets trough the holes, then push the unit into it. Pictures of 3D printed prototype. The actual end-product sits a bit more away from the brake MC, so you can easily plug it in.

I'll update with pricing, but expect a low prices. You'll also be able to buy complete sets from me, I've stocked up some brand new Febi valves too.

David

Posted: **Jan 05, 2023 1:03 PM**

szacsi72 wrote: Jan 05, 2023 10:09 AM Hi guys,

I've decided to do this 'upgrade' (repair, for me), and I decided I'd make some adapters hence I don't like cutting up things and zipties....
Please let me know if you'd need a piece. I'm making 5 units as of now. They'll be laser-cut from 2mm 304 stainless steel. You just put the stock E46 rubber groomets trough the holes, then push the unit into it. Pictures of 3D printed prototype. The actual end-product sits a bit more away from the brake MC, so you can easily plug it in.

I'll update with pricing, but expect a low prices. You'll also be able to buy complete sets from me, I've stocked up some brand new Febi valves too.

David

That kicks major ass, David!

Posted: **Jan 05, 2023 4:32 PM**

I'll take one please!!!

Posted: **Jan 09, 2023 8:43 AM**

Hi Guys,

The adapter plate will be $15 a piece; a kit, including the adapter plate and a brand new FEBI unit will be $115.
Please send me a PM if you want one!

Thanks!
David

Posted: **Jan 09, 2023 5:38 PM**

szacsi72 wrote: Jan 09, 2023 8:43 AM Hi Guys,

The adapter plate will be $15 a piece; a kit, including the adapter plate and a brand new FEBI unit will be $115.
Please send me a PM if you want one!

Thanks!
David

David - does this include overseas shipping ???

Milarsky,
I am also interested in this retrofit / upgrade. Please let me know what is involved, additional parts needed, anything that will help me decide to go ahead!

Andy

Posted: **Jan 12, 2023 8:33 AM**

MisterFixit wrote: Jan 09, 2023 5:38 PM
szacsi72 wrote: Jan 09, 2023 8:43 AM Hi Guys,

The adapter plate will be $15 a piece; a kit, including the adapter plate and a brand new FEBI unit will be $115.
Please send me a PM if you want one!

Thanks!
David
David - does this include overseas shipping ???

Milarsky,
I am also interested in this retrofit / upgrade. Please let me know what is involved, additional parts needed, anything that will help me decide to go ahead!

Andy

Hi Andy,

No, none of my prices include shipping. If one of you decides to buy multiple items, shipping will be of much better value.

David

Posted: **Jan 12, 2023 9:38 AM**

I'll take one too please!

Posted: **Jan 13, 2023 7:43 AM**

Hello,

This is great! I’d like to purchase the full kit, please—the plate and a new Febi valve.

Thank you!

Posted: **Jan 13, 2023 10:58 AM**

szacsi72 wrote: Jan 12, 2023 8:33 AM
MisterFixit wrote: Jan 09, 2023 5:38 PM

David - does this include overseas shipping ???

Milarsky,
I am also interested in this retrofit / upgrade. Please let me know what is involved, additional parts needed, anything that will help me decide to go ahead!

Andy
Hi Andy,

No, none of my prices include shipping. If one of you decides to buy multiple items, shipping will be of much better value.

David

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MyE28.com DEV

e46 Heater Valve Retrofit

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