MyE28.com DEV

Is this under boost or all the time? What is your plug gap? I would also check the things that Canuck listed. Also, I recall that Mike (grsmonkey) has a similar issue that caused a misfire and the demise of his cat. I don't remember exactly what it was that was causing it though.

Big Bronze Rim wrote:Is this under boost or all the time? What is your plug gap? I would also check the things that Canuck listed. Also, I recall that Mike (grsmonkey) has a similar issue that caused a misfire and the demise of his cat. I don't remember exactly what it was that was causing it though.

It was the 20+ year old vr sensor I was using. Resistance through the coil was in spec, but the sensor was weak and unable to produce a proper a/c signal at that speed.

Big Bronze Rim wrote:Is this under boost or all the time? What is your plug gap? I would also check the things that Canuck listed. Also, I recall that Mike (grsmonkey) has a similar issue that caused a misfire and the demise of his cat. I don't remember exactly what it was that was causing it though.

It does it all the time....when i got the plugs the parts guy said he would gap them for me so i think they're gapped to what ever stock is.

Following what the MS-Extra manual said my dwell is 3.5ms since im running wasted spark.


Grsmonkey- Good to see the new higher dyno numbers!

e30-m30_kid89 wrote: Grsmonkey- Good to see the new higher dyno numbers!

Whoa! Not yet. I just added my torque number.

I would pull those plugs and check the gap. Stock gap is way too large. I recommend between 0.025 and 0.028" for FI applications.

Woot! It was the gap....Revs past 5k no problems (reved it up in my driveway) So tempted to take it for a rip but i'm going to wait on my wideband stuffs to arrive.

Thx guyssssssss

It should rev out with no load on the engine. The real test is going to be revving out under boost.

^^^I thought that too....I really wanted to take it out for a rip and see but I'm going to wait till at least tomorrow.

Before today It only rev'd out to 5k while idling as well as under load/boost so maybe it a sign of good things to come.

Finally a MS thread I feel comfortable posting in.

A little intro I have a e34 535i TCD stg2 just finishing it up. I picked up a MS2 v3 that goatthumper made after I found out motroni 1.3 wouldn't run my 42lbs injectors.

I am completely useless when it comes to this stuff (electronics wiring etc)

Can you guys put me in the right direction, I bought a GM IAT and CLT sensor, LC-1 wideband, and the MS. Whats next basically?

Should I go wasted spark?? If so what do i need? Which coils GM, Bosch?

I know I also need a TPS. Which one do I get. I have a M50 on here but after reading the post it sounds like I'd be better off with one from a auto e34/e32.

I'd really appreciate some advice, I am a huge newb when it comes to megasquirt. A friend of mine is going to hopefuly help me tune after hes finished doing his e30 so all i have to do is get it installed.

Thanks guys.

Were all noobs at one point or another, so no worries.

You pretty much have all the hardware you need.

You need to connect the analog output on the LC-1 to the signal wire on the stock O2 harness. (I belive its the gray wire)

You need to connect the IAT to the stock IAT wires on the harness. There are 4 wires that come from the AFM harness. One is ground, one is the IAT, one is the reference (5 volts for the AFM) and the last one is the signal. Connect your new IAT to the first two wires. You're going to have to look up with the color code to see which two wires are the correct ones to splice.

I don't think the CLT is absolutely necessary, but I'm sure others can chime in.

If you have the M50 TPS on there, I would just continue to use it. You need to look up the wiring diagram and supply a ground wire, a reference wire (5 volts) and a signal (to the ECU) wire. You're going to need the pin out for the 179 ecu and the pin layout for the M50 tps. You can use the 5 volt reference from the AFM wire that I mentioned earlier.

How much are you running (or do you want to run?)

I havn't had it running yet. I've been sooooo busy it's taken me 2 yrs just to rebuild the M30, all the suspension and install the kit.
I'm thinking 8-10lbs street does this sound reasonable?

Would life be easier if i had a m30 auto TPS because i havn't mounted the m50 one yet i'll have to make a bracket for it. Does the m30 one bolt on?

Lee in Ottawa wrote:I havn't had it running yet. I've been sooooo busy it's taken me 2 yrs just to rebuild the M30, all the suspension and install the kit.
I'm thinking 8-10lbs street does this sound reasonable?

Would life be easier if i had a m30 auto TPS because i havn't mounted the m50 one yet i'll have to make a bracket for it. Does the m30 one bolt on?

Yes it would be easier to just install a b35 auto.

8-10psi seems more than reasonable. I'm running 9 on a stock b35 block with a Ireland built head and extrude honed intake and I'm quite satisfied with the power. Getting things going in the beginning was a bitch but I'm happy with the results.

Have you considering upgrading the pumps?

The b35 auto TPS would be the easiest, cleanest solution. You really don't need the CLT sensor as the stock one works just fine with MS. Look in the wiring guide on the first page of this thread for the AFM wires that you splice the IAT sensor into. IMO wasted spark really isn't necessary, at least at 8-10 psi. I have had no issues in over a year of running stock hardware at 8.5psi. Just get it all going and if you want to upgrade later, you can. 8-10psi is awesome on the street and the engine will live a long time at this relatively unstressed power level. That boost should equate to 290-320ish hp which is plenty of fun. Like George mentioned, upgrading the fuel pump(s) is highly recommended.

Thanks for all the tips guys, really thanks. A post like this would have been knocked to the 3rd page of the FI section on bfc by now.

I bought a upgraded fuel pump from TCD so i'm good there.
One more question, I have a tial BOV that I was going to mount on the intake pipe were the take off is for the bypass valve. So the air will not be recirculated. like the TCD kit is there a problem with this.

If you are running MS, there is no need to recirc the BOV. Speed density doesn't care if you dump off the air.

so I am about 90% ready to pull the trigger on a setup, here is what I have comprised from diyautotune.com

1. MegaSquirt-II Engine Management System w/PCB3.0 - Unassembled Kit Part # MS230-K

2.JimStim v1.4 MegaSquirt Stimulator w/ Wheel Simulator -Unassembl [jimstim-k]

3. 3 wire PWM idle valve driver board
[900-0160] (only available from glen's garage?)

I already have the 60-2 wheel/VR sensor, 6 pin TPS, and laptop.
apart from cables/wire is there any other hardware I am going to need? I know I will need a Wideband 02 and gauges for the turbo setup, but I want to get this car setup for Megasquirt and running NA before I get all the turbo stuff setup on the car.
any pros or cons to the setup I am considering?

I had my MS ECU built by the guys at DIY. I told them I needed hardware for a 60-2 VR sensor and ignition hardware for a single coil/distributor ignition system. I felt a lot better knowing it was going to be done right, I would recommend anyone else do the same for a first time install without any MS experience.

but I want to learn... I feel that this isn't going to be the last time I use Megasquirt (if all works well). I have lately been soaking info up and considering doing this myself for the personal exp points lol.

Learning is great, but you dont want to get in too far over your head. If you get everything put together and the car wont start you dont want to be second guessing your soldering skill and hardware configuration.

turbodan wrote:Learning is great, but you dont want to get in too far over your head. If you get everything put together and the car wont start you dont want to be second guessing your soldering skill and hardware configuration.

Dan is right. I knew nothing about megasquirt, and went right into the project. I encountered so many headaches that I wanted to use the megasquirt as a wheel chuck, in my driveway.

Don't forget Peter Florance. Top Notch.

I got a question...Im using the same trigger settings as Brad's but i was wondering if I should still verify the timing with a light?

Scottinva wrote:

turbodan wrote:Learning is great, but you dont want to get in too far over your head. If you get everything put together and the car wont start you dont want to be second guessing your soldering skill and hardware configuration.

Dan is right. I knew nothing about megasquirt, and went right into the project. I encountered so many headaches that I wanted to use the megasquirt as a wheel chuck, in my driveway.

x2....It was such a pita trying to get it initially running, I botched the install when it came to some things and had to order replacement components on more than one occasion. I spent probably 3 - 4 hrs a day EVERYDAY for 3 - 4 weeks working, researching and looking for help to get mine working. there was one point i wanted to just start over and buy a built board but then it worked

e30-m30_kid89 wrote:I got a question...Im using the same trigger settings as Brad's but i was wondering if I should still verify the timing with a light?

Always always always verify timing with a timing light.

I own 2. My non-adjustable died and I bought a perfect Craftsman on ebay for 20.00US

Also, thanks for the plug, George!

I agree, I would also double check the trigger offset with a timing light.

FirstFives Dictator wrote:

e30-m30_kid89 wrote:I got a question...Im using the same trigger settings as Brad's but i was wondering if I should still verify the timing with a light?

Always always always verify timing with a timing light.

I own 2. My non-adjustable died and I bought a perfect Craftsman on ebay for 20.00US

Also, thanks for the plug, George!

Lucky for me I'm pulling out my busted rad this weekend so I'll be able to check out the timing then.

I read about some guys having problems with their timing lights being not picking up on a wasted spark setup, i have cheezy adjustable timing light which in previous jobs has worked well.

Is there anything special or any specific wire I should clip the pick up to make sure my light is reading right?

WHEW! ok. I just ordered an assembled jimstim stimulator with wheel sim and the pre-assembled MS2 3.57.

$500 later, have I done good so far? I know i still need the 3 wire IAC peice from GG and fuel injectors and a bunch of other stuff...

now we're getting somewhere!

thesixerkid wrote:Don't forget Peter Florance. Top Notch.

x 10,000

alijonny wrote:WHEW! ok. I just ordered an assembled jimstim stimulator with wheel sim and the pre-assembled MS2 3.57.

$500 later, have I done good so far? I know i still need the 3 wire IAC peice from GG and fuel injectors and a bunch of other stuff...

now we're getting somewhere!

Just outta pure curiosity, Why did you get the V3.57?

All I know is modding the v3.57 is trickier due to the surface mount components.