MyE28.com

Posted: **Mar 10, 2015 9:47 PM**

Hm, must have been another thread I was thinking of. Anyway, the B34 look isnt bad, but with a cover that nice, i would want to flash it every time the hood was up. Just a personal preference.

Going FI one day, or just sticking to high comp? (Been a minute since I followed up this thread, i might have missed a few updates on your plans)

Posted: **Mar 10, 2015 10:13 PM**

trevmmeister wrote:Hm, must have been another thread I was thinking of. Anyway, the B34 look isnt bad, but with a cover that nice, i would want to flash it every time the hood was up. Just a personal preference.

Going FI one day, or just sticking to high comp? (Been a minute since I followed up this thread, i might have missed a few updates on your plans)

This engine will never be FI.

I will need to substantially modify that 924 Turbo air filter assembly to make it fit. There's really no reason to do it other than I think it would an interesting project and create something unique.

Posted: **May 07, 2015 11:47 AM**

cek wrote:
12valves wrote:
What does a motor "wants more vacuum advance" mean?
Vacuum advance refers to the timing at part throttle, which is generally more advanced than at WOT. At part throttle there is a certain amount of vacuum in the intake, while at WOT there is essentially none. Cars that didn't get computer-controlled ignition timing often had a vacuum hose running to the distributor, so the vacuum would actuate a lever in the distributor resulting in more spark advance.
So for example, on this map they didn't bother to tune for part-throttle conditions at all. The downside to this would be subpar fuel mileage and throttle response.
Super helpful!

On our cars WOT is determined by the TPS, right? I mean you are either at WOT with the throttle or not, right?

FWIW, my throttle response has always felt fine (and still does with this latest tune) across the range.

However my fuel mileage has suckaged. I'm getting about 16mpg... I expected better with this motor.

This is my original tune from Miller. The car pulls hard and feels good but is very rich and is no where near optimal with this tune. I have been able to get it close but not where it needs to be. After looking at the other tunes, I can see why.

I am going to tune this month and going to try to start with a good base and go from there. My engine is Paul Burke 10.5:1 pistons, N31 cam, 24lbs injectors, ported b35 head and intake. Bav auto style headers, no cat, IE exhaust

Any input would be appreciated ... Sorry about the highjack CEK

Posted: **May 07, 2015 12:14 PM**

shwaa wrote:
Any input would be appreciated ... Sorry about the highjack CEK

Email me and I'll send you my tune. Super happy with it as it is right now.

Posted: **May 07, 2015 12:19 PM**

cek wrote:
Email me and I'll send you my tune. Super happy with it as it is right now.

Done ... Thank you very much.

Posted: **Aug 30, 2015 11:06 AM**

cek wrote:
From the back side

Bear with me. I am trying to re-create the "tube of wires and connector " because they got fragged pretty badly on my e34 (m30b35). So far I have used 2gauge wire from the starter to the alternator and plan on re-creating the connector wire with correct gauge wire. What is currently stumping me is the wire that seems to be coming from the wire that goes from the starter to the alternator or visa versa. Is it a ground, for the tube, or is it a ground for that "connector" from starter to alternator ?

Wires in question are bottom of page just left of center.

Any help would be appreciated.

Posted: **Aug 30, 2015 12:05 PM**

another pic showing which wire im talking about... its the one to the left.

Posted: **Apr 23, 2016 1:44 PM**

Someone was asking about crank nuts on Facebook and someone else asserted they didn't think a crank nut could fly off on it's own if not tightened correctly. I went to find my posts where I talked about my own personal near-catesrophic disaster regarding this and realized that I never actually posted it to this thread. I get feedback from people all the time that this thread has been helpful to them, so I want it to be complete.

So, here's what happened (copied from Vlad's thread):

Went to start Vlad this morning and heard a loud CRACK.

Shut her down and opened the hood. Found this. My radiator fan detonated:

Does this just happen sometimes?

There's nothing (obvious) in there that it could have hit.

Ok, got a chance to look at the car. No dead animals or evidence of animal dismemberment apparent.

Seems to be a lack of blades. I only count the tips of 4 blades present. I found one down by the battery. Hmmm... I wonder where the other 5 went?

After moving the car I found one more blade and...

This washer.

OMFG.

You know what this means, right?

That I'm a hack mechanic who should't be building engines?

It also explains the oil leaking into the crank pulley. I sure hope that driving several thousand miles without a tight crank nut (which is nowhere to be found) didn't do any damage.

Kyle in NO wrote:
cek wrote:
Kyle in NO wrote:If the woodruff key isn't sheared, you should be fine.

Oh, and don't touch my engine.
CJ asks "if the woodruff key is sheared, what do we do? Crush the car?"
Dig the sheared piece out of the crank snout with a pick and install a new key. They are cheap.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/produc ... 7119951485

cek wrote:
demetk wrote:
cek wrote:It also explains the oil leaking into the crank pulley. I sure hope that driving several thousand miles without a tight crank nut (which is nowhere to be found) didn't do any damage.
Holy crap. You mean you never tightened that nut? Don't you have a checklist or something?

Me, I don't do checklists but whenever I install something I make sure to finish that particular process. Less chance of forgetting something.
Oh, I tightened it. I did it on the stand though and just to about 200lbs. It's supposed to be 325. I also didn't put locktite on it.

I'm not the first to do this, which sorta makes me feel better.

cek wrote:
jodystevens wrote:200ft/lb and it still came loose
Or, my memory is wrong and I actually failed to tighten it. Someone above asked "don't you have a checklist? you fucking idiot!"

No and yes.

Next time I will.

cek wrote:Thank you Blunt:

Thank you Strictly BMW:

But, as it turns out I probably didn't need that nut because, I just happened to see this:

I just assumed it had previously fallen out and was lost. But now it's clear that it was the nut that destroyed the fan, not just the washer. I'm glad it didn't dent the underside of the hood!

Regardless, I'm using the new one. I actually should have another used one somewhere (two donor motors) but I can't find it among all my parts.

I have now convinced myself that I never REALLY torqued this nut down. I would have remembered having to use something to prevent the engine from turning, because that much torque turns the motor even if the motor is in gear and the brakes are on. It is also enough to break the 3/8" to 1/2" socket adapter I have. I tried using the shorter 3/8" socket today because the longer one won't fit with the radiator in.

For now I got to 180ft/lbs before the adapter broke. I won't be driving the car before Tuesday and I've ordered a shorter 36mm socket from Amazon that will allow the torque wrench in there.

cek wrote:Ah, yes. I got the right socket and torqued the nut to 325ftlbs.

I have been driving Vlad this week. His PO is in town, and we're trying to get together so he can see what I've done to his baby.

I have not have not had a chance to put him up on the lift to double check, but I'm confident its still leaking at the rear. But now I don't think I'll have to pull the engine, just the transmission.

Posted: **Apr 23, 2016 1:47 PM**

And, for the record, the engine now has 11,256 miles on it since I put it in and is running flawlessly. No leaks either.

If it esploded tomorrow I'd still be pretty damn proud of myself.

Posted: **Apr 23, 2016 8:11 PM**

Nice work. I have a similar engine I built but with the N21 cam, electric only fan, and megasquirt tuning in slow progress. How do you like that cam? FWIW I torqued the crank nut to like 270 ft lbs. If I recall correctly for whatever reason Paul Burke recommended and I haven't had an issue with it.

Posted: **Apr 23, 2016 8:29 PM**

foolish wrote:Nice work. I have a similar engine I built but with the N21 cam, electric only fan, and megasquirt tuning in slow progress. How do you like that cam? FWIW I torqued the crank nut to like 270 ft lbs. If I recall correctly for whatever reason Paul Burke recommended and I haven't had an issue with it.

The engine is awesome. So torquey and smooth. Sounds great too. Really glad i went with the N21 cam. Just enough 'lope' at idle without being annoying for a daily driver. I spend a fair amount of time stopped some days during my commute.

Posted: **Jul 10, 2017 3:19 PM**

It's been exactly 3 years (and just shy of 19k miles) since first start. My wife had posted this video on Facebook and it popped up today reminding me of the event.

https://youtu.be/kD7mkVpJHA0

I was clearly excited that the damn thing started on the first attempt.

I'm clearly still excited that it has still not esploded on me.

Posted: **Jul 12, 2017 12:34 PM**

Maybe I missed it, but I'm curious about the throttle body assembly after the powder coat. Did you have any pics that documented this process? Maybe just link to what you used to re assemble yours? I want to PC mine also.

Also, a genuine thank you to you for your documentation, it's been so incredibly helpful on my own b35 stuff. You've provided a great resource here.

Posted: **Jul 12, 2017 12:50 PM**

cek wrote:It's been exactly 3 years (and just shy of 19k miles) since first start. My wife had posted this video on Facebook and it popped up today reminding me of the event.

https://youtu.be/kD7mkVpJHA0

I was clearly excited that the damn thing started on the first attempt.

I'm clearly still excited that it has still not esploded on me.

Posted: **Jul 12, 2017 12:58 PM**

jhall wrote:Maybe I missed it, but I'm curious about the throttle body assembly after the powder coat. Did you have any pics that documented this process? Maybe just link to what you used to re assemble yours? I want to PC mine also.

Also, a genuine thank you to you for your documentation, it's been so incredibly helpful on my own b35 stuff. You've provided a great resource here.

I just disassembled it and put it back together in reverse order. It's not hard, or I would have gotten it wrong, which I didn't.

Posted: **Jul 12, 2017 2:38 PM**

cek wrote:
I just disassembled it and put it back together in reverse order. It's not hard, or I would have gotten it wrong, which I didn't.

Fair enough, though one more dumb question. Did you remove the throttle plate?

If you mask well it shouldn't be necessary, but if there's any plastic seals hidden in there they could get turned into liquid during the bake.

Posted: **Jul 12, 2017 8:19 PM**

jhall wrote:
cek wrote:
I just disassembled it and put it back together in reverse order. It's not hard, or I would have gotten it wrong, which I didn't.

Fair enough, though one more dumb question. Did you remove the throttle plate?

If you mask well it shouldn't be necessary, but if there's any plastic seals hidden in there they could get turned into liquid during the bake.

Yes, I did. There was no plastic left when I was done disassembling it.

Posted: **Aug 28, 2017 6:10 AM**

Everything will be yellow/zinc.

This is actually everything from the B35 and B34 donor motors. For this amount of stuff the place I'm using charges the same so might as well. Before tossing it all together I carefully took pictures of each of my labeled zip-locks with the fasteners that went together all neatly laid out.

For example:

It'll still be a challenge figuring out what each fastener is for, but at least I'll have a reasonable reference.[/quote]

Hi man i want to know. Do you still remaining photos of every labeled zip-locks with the fasteners? I am also restoring my m30b34. And i want to know where i must use zip-locks with the fasteners. Can u send to my email all photos? (sabir.mammadov@icloud.com)

Posted: **Aug 28, 2017 9:48 AM**

I gave up. I put all the fasteners in a box together and had them plated. Then I just searched for the right fastener using RealOEM as I assembled things. I never looked a those photos again. Worked fine.

Posted: **Aug 29, 2017 5:14 PM**

How I hug my ECU:

Posted: **Dec 29, 2017 11:52 PM**

I now have 21,500 miles on the motor. Almost everything on the motor (sensors, belts, etc...) were new when installed. Since new I've performed the following maintenance:

Oil, Oil Filter, Air Filter change (twice)
Flushed coolant
Adjusted Valves
Replaced oil pressure switch

I'm due to change the oil and my yellow/red inspection lights are on and i'm generally in the "Inspection II" interval range. I keep detailed track of everything I do to this car, and I can tell you precisely when just about every part was replaced.

When I do the oil service sometime in January I'll run down the Inspection II list and do all the inspecting required.

But JUST FOR THE ENGINE, what should I proactively replace at this point in time/mileage?

Inspection II says "replace plugs". But my plugs look fine. Should I really bother replacing them?

What else?

Posted: **Jan 02, 2018 7:44 AM**

If it were my motor, I'd do the following:

- Check the plugs (sounds like you have) - no need to prophylactically replace
- Check the valve clearances
- Change the oil
- Check/change the coolant (I do this on new-ish motors just to make sure there's no garbage in there from the cleaning/reassembly process)
- Drive the crap out of it

Posted: **Jan 02, 2018 10:17 AM**

athayer187 wrote:If it were my motor, I'd do the following:

- Check the plugs (sounds like you have) - no need to prophylactically replace
- Check the valve clearances
- Change the oil
- Check/change the coolant (I do this on new-ish motors just to make sure there's no garbage in there from the cleaning/reassembly process)
- Drive the crap out of it

All of these have been done (esp. the last). Thanks.

Posted: **Feb 14, 2018 7:43 PM**

Hi Charlie - I sent you an email but realize I didn't give you my address (tj85e28@gmail.com). My question has to do with the guide rail (driver's side). I'm in the middle of replacing my head and so have the upper timing cover off. Peering down the cover it appears my rail is intact however it appears loose -- about 1/8" of play front to back and slightly more than that side to side. Did the guides you removed from any of your donor engines appear loose? Did the new one you installed fit snug? I'm wondering if over time the mounting holes become larger thru vibration and so appear loose with the accumulation of miles. I welcome anyone's feedback...

Posted: **Feb 14, 2018 8:36 PM**

tjsbrick wrote:Hi Charlie - I sent you an email but realize I didn't give you my address (tj85e28@gmail.com). My question has to do with the guide rail (driver's side). I'm in the middle of replacing my head and so have the upper timing cover off. Peering down the cover it appears my rail is intact however it appears loose -- about 1/8" of play front to back and slightly more than that side to side. Did the guides you removed from any of your donor engines appear loose? Did the new one you installed fit snug? I'm wondering if over time the mounting holes become larger thru vibration and so appear loose with the accumulation of miles. I welcome anyone's feedback...

I don't recall how much play mine had, nor do I know how much there's supposed to be. Sorry!

Posted: **Mar 06, 2018 1:50 PM**

Posted: **Mar 06, 2018 10:55 PM**

I use that oil ^^ in three BMW's and my runabout. Nice to see it is good shape after 7,000+ mile ODI.

Posted: **Jun 21, 2019 3:53 PM**

cek wrote:I know this is a TOTAL noob question, but I just want to be damn sure.

The crank is at TDC when the dowel is at the top?

The camshaft is at TDC when the dowel is at 7pm?

I’m rebuilding my engine now. Did you get an answer to your question? From my research, it looks right. But I also want to make sure before in bolt everything down.
Thanks

Posted: **Jun 21, 2019 3:57 PM**

Smileyboy wrote:I’m rebuilding my engine now. Did you get an answer to your question? From my research, it looks right. But I also want to make sure before in bolt everything down.
Thanks

Nope. Crank dowel pin is at 11 o'clock and bolt holes are at 12 & 6 o'clock.

Posted: **Jun 21, 2019 4:16 PM**

demetk wrote:
Smileyboy wrote:I’m rebuilding my engine now. Did you get an answer to your question? From my research, it looks right. But I also want to make sure before in bolt everything down.
Thanks
Nope. Crank dowel pin is at 11 o'clock and bolt holes are at 12 & 6 o'clock.

Camshaft bolt holes?

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