MyE28.com DEV

Amazing work! Loved that fuse box.
Regarding the fuel indicator not showing full, I have the same issue, started when I switched clusters a long looong time ago, never went in to fix it to be honest but if you do find the issue let me know hehe

cek wrote: Dec 07, 2020 11:20 AM

Bonsaibacker wrote: Dec 07, 2020 5:06 AM The pictures of Vlad were "tits" but I fully enjoy these action shots. Great stuff here Charlie- I struggle to figure out how you have the time to tinker and then document so thoroughly (both). Thank you for doing so and I dread the day you feel that you are done. Hoping at that point another E28 finds its way into your garage with yet another vision.

Well, the resurgence in activity is due to the fact that I don't currently have a job

Well now this is awkward... Lemonade from lemons?

Regardless you always seem to get a shit ton done and looking at your WIP chart it is not accidental.

Bonsaibacker wrote: Dec 08, 2020 5:53 AM

cek wrote: Dec 07, 2020 11:20 AM

Bonsaibacker wrote: Dec 07, 2020 5:06 AM The pictures of Vlad were "tits" but I fully enjoy these action shots. Great stuff here Charlie- I struggle to figure out how you have the time to tinker and then document so thoroughly (both). Thank you for doing so and I dread the day you feel that you are done. Hoping at that point another E28 finds its way into your garage with yet another vision.

Well, the resurgence in activity is due to the fact that I don't currently have a job

Well now this is awkward... Lemonade from lemons?

Regardless you always seem to get a shit ton done and looking at your WIP chart it is not accidental.

Spiked lemonade! For sure.

I thought I had until Sunday to get everything done before transport to Utah. But the trucking company called and asked if they could pick it up Thursday. I agreed. Fortunately, they then slipped to tomorrow and I was able to crunch-mode and get it all done by last night.



I left a few things undone so I'll have projects in Utah (ha!):



Pulling the center console apart was motivated by the fact AC air wasn't coming out of top vents, just the sides of the evap box. I was flummoxed because it seemed like the fan was turning the wrong way, which made zero sense. After diving in I discovered (thanks to a hint by Kohler) the flappy doors on the top of the evap box were wedged and wouldn't open. Many many hours of futzing with this, trying to reinstall the box such that they wouldn't bind eventually led me to discover the evap box I was using had two broken tabs on the top!





It's a good thing I built an E28 HVAC system fort over the years.



Y'all will recall the time & expense I put into refurbishing the metal-old-style HVAC controls. After getting a set all together and "tits" I broke a tab again. Frustrated I looked at my collection again. I now feel extra special for noting that there are TWO versions of the old-style, cable only, controls. A newer version that's plastic. I have TWO of them here. How I didn't notice this before is beyond even me. So now:



Once this was figured out the rest went together fairly easily. Even the weird fabric thing is finally on correctly.



I have no idea where I got the brown one from, but it's nice to finally have an anthacite one in this car.

I clearly screwed up the wiring in the fuse box for the wipers. I noticed on my shakedown drive last night in the rain that the stalk works in reverse. It now goes: Off, Fast, Slow, Intermittent. This will be easy to fix when @galahad gets us all the final fuse box kits.

When I changed the valve cover gasket I damaged an injector o-ring. I replaced it (twice). I'm now very practiced at removing the fuel rail on this car.

I'll need to re-do the kick-panel install at some point because the stereo wiring bundles that I ran down the left side of the center console cause the center console to be too wide where the kick panel goes. On one hand, this makes the kick panel fit tightly which actually negates the need for the bottom left screw and makes it easier to install (it literally sicks in place). On the other hand, it is TOO tight and the upper screws are under more tension than I'd like. Plus this kick panel is not in great shape. Plus I decided to move the OBDII connector from the hole we cut down by the temp sensor to the glove box and now this one has a big hole down there. I may put a footwell LED down there like Vlad has...

I moved the OBD II sensor to the glove box because I found I didn't like having the USB cable run across the footwell to the laptop in the passenger seat.

These are the LED blinker bulbs with built in resitors so they don't trigger the fast-flash. Very, and I mean very, bright.







Got the second key cut. I had bought a new blank from Blunt. Found a guy in van with a CNC cutting machine that will do steel. Perfect.



Rear fogs weren't working because this GY/VI plug was not plugged in. I had previously stashed the business end away because I figured it was one of those underdash plugs that doesn't go to anything.



Best of all, I got it all done in time for the transport to Utah this morning...

I really enjoy all your pictures and the storyline that accompanies it detailing the work involved.

Safe and sound in Utah!

Minerva!

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1987- ... 2020-12-22

Adam W in MN wrote: Dec 22, 2020 9:43 AM Minerva!

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1987- ... 2020-12-22

It's that sorta light that originally had me hooked on the color. Too bad in bright lights it can look washed out because I still think it's beautiful.

cek wrote: Dec 14, 2020 10:57 AM Safe and sound in Utah!

I definitely prefer the Alpina wheels most. Is that your Studebaker truck?

glowell222 wrote: Jan 21, 2021 12:05 AM Is that your Studebaker truck?

No, that was just on the rig along with Minerva.

cek wrote: Jan 21, 2021 1:26 PM

glowell222 wrote: Jan 21, 2021 12:05 AM Is that your Studebaker truck?

No, that was just on the rig along with Minerva.

It was cool to see them both together, and Minerva made the Stude look a little more cool with reflected glory.

How were you able to keep your cruise control functional with your s54 swap?

mmk61 wrote: Feb 10, 2021 11:15 PM How were you able to keep your cruise control functional with your s54 swap?

Here's the deal - it is all theoretically possible and I have done all the work on Minerva, with the exception of hooking up one final wire.

Recall the S54 uses an electronic throttle and part of any swap is replacing the E28 go pedal with one from the E46. Thus there is no throttle cable. Cruise is controlled by the MSS54 ECU.

On E46 M3s the cruise control stalk communicates with the ECU via the CAN bus. While it's possible to get CAN bus in an E28 swap (I actually have it, but am not using it; via andrew: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=275468) there's no easy way to get an E46 cruise stalk in an E28 steering column.

However, the Z3 M with the S54 has an analog cruise stalk! And for that application, BMW made this little bugger:


Z3M Cruise Control Module: 65718380054

Z3M Cruise Control:



E28 Cruise Control:


This thread on r3v shows how it gets connected on an E30. Which is not very different than an E28 (E28 does not have a decel function, so you won't wire that up):
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/ ... rol-in-e30

In short:

On the big connector this is how you'd wire it up:


Module pin 5 stays disconnected (would be used for the decelerate funhttp://www.tunerpro.net/ction)

For the smaller connector:
Pin 1 -> X60004 Pin 35 (DME)
Pin 2 -> X60004 Pin 27 (DME)
Pin 3 -> +12v (Fusebox)

Then you need to wire up the brake light switch, clutch switch, and speed signal.


You also have to tweak your ECU programming, per that thread.

I've done all of that. However, there was one report that read

"I know the guy above said wiring up +12v to his brake light switch fried his DME, but apparently that's how it's done in the S54 Z3M"

I'm petrified to connect the output of the brake light switch to either pin 24 (or pin 34) because MSS54HP's are made of unobtainium and I haven't been able to find any definitive info that eases my concern.

Finally, put a new hood badge on Minerva. I had a brand new one, but broke a pin on it. So bought another.





I also bought a new rear badge because this one just bugs me.


Then, I realized in order to remove this I need to pull the trunk lid liner out and probably the light and the lock mechanism. I don't really have the right tools here in Utah so I am going to do it another time.

The mirror mechanisms were no bueno. I didn't really inspect them before they were put on, and neither of them worked. I ordered new ones from Blunt (use the E34 part: 51161394107 as it is the same mechanism but labeled separately for the E28) and now they are tits.





Coco in mirror is cuter than she appears.


Then I went skiing.

"Then I went skiing."

Not gonna lie, that's actually my preferred way of ending the day as well.

Today I bypassed the stoplight active check circuit so that I could get the right brake light to work.

Left: Analog
Right: Analog
Result: Both work; no Check light.

Left: Any form of LED
Right: Any form of LED
Result: Left works, Right does not, Yes check light

Left: Any form of LED
Right: Analog
Result: Left works, Right works, Yes check light

Left: Any form of LED
Right: LED w/out circuit to 'fix' check lights
Result: Left works, Right works, Yes check light

Left: Any form of LED
Right: LED WITH circuit to 'fix' check lights
Result: Left works, Right does not work, Yes check light

It was all just pissing me off, so I just tied GN/RD, GN/WH, and GN/YL together and said fuck it for now.

Note center stop light is wired without check light circuitry because it's an '85 harness.

Woww. I remember going through this thread 2-3 years ago, crazy to go through and see the progress that has been made since then. The car looks so good all finished up! I saw your post on instagram about the fuse box retrofit, which reminded me to get on this site again. Haven't been on here in a while!

Is there a secret to painting the side view mirrors? I bought unpainted replacements to get painted off the car but have noted they do not disassemble.

rlfletch wrote: May 08, 2021 1:46 AM Is there a secret to painting the side view mirrors? I bought unpainted replacements to get painted off the car but have noted they do not disassemble.

To remove the mirror element, you must twist a ring in the mirror itself. This is achieved through a small hole in the bottom if I recall correctly. After that you should either mask or remove the whole motor assembly.

cek wrote: Mar 28, 2021 10:52 PM It was all just pissing me off, so I just tied GN/RD, GN/WH, and GN/YL together and said fuck it for now.

The checkbox for the rear lights (the unit in the trunk that actually checks if the actual bulbs are ok or not) use reed relays, they are a very 80s way of doing that .
It shouldn't be hard to improve that design with more modern componentry.

Ju@n wrote: May 08, 2021 9:16 AM

rlfletch wrote: May 08, 2021 1:46 AM Is there a secret to painting the side view mirrors? I bought unpainted replacements to get painted off the car but have noted they do not disassemble.

To remove the mirror element, you must twist a ring in the mirror itself. This is achieved through a small hole in the bottom if I recall correctly. After that you should either mask or remove the whole motor assembly.

Yeah, I got that part but the outer mirror housing does not appear to separate from the corner mount or disassemble at all, so I wasn't understanding how to get good paint coverage on the surfaces that overlap/rub against each other. Some very careful painting I guess?

rlfletch wrote: May 15, 2021 1:45 AM

Ju@n wrote: May 08, 2021 9:16 AM

rlfletch wrote: May 08, 2021 1:46 AM Is there a secret to painting the side view mirrors? I bought unpainted replacements to get painted off the car but have noted they do not disassemble.

To remove the mirror element, you must twist a ring in the mirror itself. This is achieved through a small hole in the bottom if I recall correctly. After that you should either mask or remove the whole motor assembly.

Yeah, I got that part but the outer mirror housing does not appear to separate from the corner mount or disassemble at all, so I wasn't understanding how to get good paint coverage on the surfaces that overlap/rub against each other. Some very careful painting I guess?

You can get good results just being careful. I've done it twice.

However, you COULD get even better results by painting in two steps:

1) Rotate mirror on base about 45 degrees so normally covered area is visible. Prep and paint that part. Let cure.
2) Rotate mirror back to fixed position, prep, paint, etc...

I don't think this is necessary.

Thank you, confirms I wasn't missing anything.

Back in Utah for a bit and some fun adventures.

First, I'm coming clean: The real reason I brought Minerva to Utah was to get it titled and registered. This is a topic I've avoided here because there was a small risk it wouldn't turn out and I didn't want to point fingers without all the facts. Here's the story:

I bought the chassis from @cooperman back in 2015; he had bought it from Ladue in CA and shipped it to AR. It came with a CA title and all seemed to be in order. Researching the VIN (WBADA810609380393) showed the car was an 5/85 build-date, Euro car in Arcticblau over Pacific Vynil. It was a manual with ABS and tons of options. While the car was just a shell, it did have the wiring harness and fuse box; oddly the fusebox cover was in French.




As I dug into the build, I noticed some oddities: There were no mounting brackets for the ABS pump and the bracket for the clutch slave was missing. This made no sense given the build-sheet showed the car was a manual and had ABS. Weird. But I just moved on.

After the car was completed last June I set about getting it registered in WA. This is when I discovered that I had lost the title. I actually had a color scan of it, but somewhere in the last 5 years, I put the title somewhere and now can't find it.



I figured: No big deal, I'll just go through the lost title process in WA... However, due to COVID, WA state had a massive backlog for anything DMV-related. I checked with the Utah DMV and not only did they not have a backlog, but their processes were significantly simpler. "Cool, I'll just transport the car to Utah and do it there. Vlad needs some work done anyway, so I'll bring IT back to WA."

In Utah, the first step in doing a title search is to have a local police officer verify the car has a VIN. Seriously, all they do is verify there is a VIN on the chassis. The apartment we have in Utah is right next to the Sandy, UT police department. So I filled out the lost title paper work, writing down the VIN from the color copy of the title above, and drove the 100 feet to the police station parking lot. A nice officer came out and we popped the trunk...

He looked at my paperwork and the VIN plate and said "These VINs don't match".

Da Fuq?



The VIN stamped in bumper sheet metal reads the same: WBADA810609380398

Note the 8 at the end vs. the 3 on the CA title?

The entire time this car has been in the US, it has been mistitled. Someone wrote a 3 instead of an 8 and because the car was never registered outside of CA since nobody noticed!

So, what's the real story of this chassis? Here's the build info:




Interestingly, two cars built on the same day, 5 cars apart were both Articblau. One with a vynil Pacific interior and one cloth Pacific.

This also explains the missing ABS and clutch brackets. It ALSO explains the French fuse box cover! Minerva's French!

Now I have a clean UT title with the correct VIN and was able to get plates this week (temporary; personalized are coming...).

I'm ISO a new French market fuse box cover, BTW.



Austin Cacacavo is visiting Utah right now, so we've connected. On Sunday we met up at Minerva's first 'show', a Cars & Coffee hosted by Envision Detail who did all the paint correction, ceramic, and clear film on both Vlad and Minerva. I was having so much fun talking to peeps about the car that I didn't take any pics. But the car definitely attracts attention.



I wanted Austin's perspective on how the car drives, so this happened...



The day before yesterday I joined up with another Austin who has S54 experience doing valve adjustments. I have all the tools/parts to do the 1000 mile adjustment (Steve Dinan recommneded this) but have never done one where shims are involved. Austin, who I met at the Cars & Coffee invited me to his house to do it. The car now purrs even more like a kitten.





Last night, Sam hosted a BBQ has his house and we had 5 E28s, a 944, a clown shoe, a Landy Classic, and several other cool cars. A great time was had.









Austin, Sam Hurly (he took those amazing photos of Vlad last year), and I drove Guardsman pass on Monday. Minerva's got some temperature issues, so I drove Julie's M4. The temperature issues, apparently, are due to me being an idiot. My goal with this car was to have every part either be new or restored to like-new condition. Somehow I missed putting a new fan clutch on...and the old one has failed.

MInerva got her first oil change, apartment parking garage style.



Not bad for a brand new engine. Oil sample is off to Blackstone for Analysis. You know I'll report back; good or bad.



Hit another cars and coffee yesterday. Massive event. The E28 was well represented with Minerva, Surly ("The PatinaE28"), and Austin's amazing 360k mile M5.





I fell in love with this 210, which the owner let me drive. It's like a tiny E28.



Tons of hard driving later, in the hot Utah heat and even with the new fan clutch I haz heat problems. I was warned the Misimito radiators are crap. Time to source something different, because this will not do.

Sorry to hear about the overheat problems. I have the Ron Davis unit in my b35 535is, do they/will they make one for your S54 application?

Cool story about the vin research and titling quest.

Now that the car is properly titled and registered and has had its 1000 mile valve adjustment and oil change, I decided to get it back to WA so I could properly wrench on the rest of the punch list items.

But first, I needed to do a Vlad-like photoshoot with @heyrr (if you missed those Vlad photos, check them out here. They are fantastic.)

We did the shoot up Big Cottonwood Canyon/Guardsman Pass in the early AM.

While he was using real cameras, I used my potato-cam to take a few myself:










Still looking for NOS French one of these...




I wish I could say the drive from SLC to SEA was uneventful. But it wasn't. I decided to break it into two days, starting off in the evening to avoid the highest temps. I drove SLC to Boise, arriving around midnight and got a hotel. Then got up early for the 2nd half, arriving SEA around noon yesterday. This was a good call because my temps never got above 12pm.





Overall the car drove beautifully. Like any other E28 I've driven long distances, it just ate up the miles comfortably. The car tracks perfectly, the suspension is great, has plenty of power (duh), etc... It is noisier than I had hoped. There are little issues with the console where I"m likely going to be pulling it out again, and I may just remove the dash and add more insulation up there. I also don't think we got enough Killamat in the doors.

These photos are of someone else with an E28 and S54 swap, because, of course, I'd never exceed the speed limit (even if it is 80mph as it is in Idaho). But they represent what this car can do. The stock S54 has an 8250 rpm redline and Steve Dinan says my motor will do 9k all day long. I have the rev limiter set to 8000 because I'm a pussy. So the fact that I'm turning 3500 at 85mph is 'fine'. But these numbers do encourage me to continue building the large-case S3.07 (the car currently has an S3.25 in it).




I made one tactical mistake: I had forgotten the washer sprayer was in-op. This was incompatible with driving in Idaho at dusk. I had to stop at gas stations a few extra times to be able to see.



This thing kills bugs, fast.


On day two, I stopped at my buddy's distillery, restaurant, coffee shop, of course. Worthy if you are ever in the area!




Home is where you hang your hat.


Now for the bummer part:


About 200 miles in, I was pulling out of a gas station and I heard a clunk from the rear. As I drove on, each time I'd hit a bump there was another clunk from the left rear. And if there was any lateral movement during the bump, the car had that same feeling you get when subframe bushings are toast: the rear end felt floaty.

I stopped several times and looked up under the car the best I could. The subframe bushings were fine. The welds on the adjustable IE subframe thingies were fine. the bolts on the top of the rear strut mounts inside the trunk were fine. The bolts at the top fo the struts looked fine*.

When I got home, I immediately put the car on the lift. After jacking it up I saw this:


which led me to pull the left rear strut, where I discovered this:


425 didn't put the top large washers (#8 in the diagram) on. Fu*k! Very disappointing and annoying and scary and a bunch of other bad things.

I have another set of mounts inbound today, along with the washers. No damage was done and it's a pretty easy to fix. Glad it's back in WA where I can work on it, and I'm glad I have the time these days to do it myself!

Yesterday I acquired two new strut mounts and a set of the proper washers.

I also checked my other cars to ensure THEY had the proper washers (since I did the work on them). Yep. Here's Vlad:



Once I had the parts, I dove into the job. Of course, I have a custom subwoofer box that makes it impossible to remove the fuel evap box that blocks access to the right side mount. This meant I needed to remove the rear seat.

And, since this is the first time *I've* had the rear seat (and subwoofer) out, I needed to fix a few other things that weren't done quite right.



Namely:

- The rear headrests were just loosely set in place. There are receivers that are supposed to mount to the back of the firewall and for whatever reason, 425 didn't install these.



- The bolts & nuts used to mount the subwoofer were a) imperial sized, and b) too long making removal/installation overly painful. I fixed this by using some proper metric bolts and nylon locknuts.

Here's the right-side strut, clearly showing that top washer was not installed. This mount has not broken through (yet).


New strut mounts acquired in record time (thanks for the help Spen!):


Both strut assemblies re-assembled with the proper parts:


All back together and proper... And those rear headrests now can be elevated.



Oh, and along the way I realized I had completely mis-rememberd what LSD I had in this car. I thought it was an S3.25. Nope.


So the S3.07 large-case I'm building is going to have an even more dramatic impact than I expected...

On my visit to Charlie's man palace of a garage, I took a whiff of his E28 interior as the door was no longer a door, it was ajar. And boy did it smell like a new car. And a good one. Car scent is possibly underappreciated. That fresh neutral scent plus nice leather has left an imprint on me. The rest of it, from my quick glance was spectacular. I'd love to get some good S54 experience!