Balancing S38 ITBs

Randomg · Post by **Randomg** » May 28, 2016 5:39 PM

Tried again today, followed tn535i's plan, set all the screws to default and used the butterfly stoppers to get them as close as possible first, then tuned with the bypass screws. When I was done and had the right vacuum on the gauge (little less than 30) and all of cylinders at the same place, I was back to where I was yesterday, which is that my idle was still too high.

With the tps connector jumpered, the idle speed was right around 1000 like you had suggested. This was with the cylinder one bypass screw tightened all the way and the 1-2 stopper set to right as it started to move from resting against the intake manifold (I can probably get it more closed with a dial indicator instead of eyeing it, which I'll do tomorrow). I also had the idle speed screw tightened down all the way. I expected to see the idle drop when plugging the connector back into the tps, maybe my idle system isn't working right, I guess I'll check the tps is grounding correctly tomorrow as well.

Not really sure what's going on, I'll go in with a dial indicator tomorrow to make sure the 1-2 set are as close to closed as possible and try again.

I think you're right about WOT, but even if you weren't, I don't care anymore, I'd rather have a good idle than a perfect WOT at this point.

tn535i · Post by **tn535i** » May 28, 2016 9:27 PM

When the TPS closes at idle is it changing anything? It sounds like you should test it next to be sure you're getting an idle input. First check for voltage at the outer pins, 5vDC IIRC, and then the center pin should be ground (0v) on the connector. Backprobe the connector and plug it back in the TPS and 5v on the idle input (pin 1 I think) must go to 0v when the throttles are closed for idle control. It may just need adjustment or maybe the switch is bad. I've seen several of these TPS have bad solder connections inside after years of thermal cycles.

Idle control on the S38 has always been a bit of a mystery to me and I would not be surprised if some act differently depending on the chip (most are chipped). If the idle loop can 'control' why do you need to adjust the bypass screw on the t/b's anyway. Balancing the t/b's make sense but not adjusting idle. My big screw seems to do little when the TPS is active. In fact I've always thought maybe the instructions I've seen were wrong and should tell you to first unplug the TPS then use the big bypass screw to set the warm idle up to about 900-1000 so that when you plug the TPS back in it controls properly. Sometimes this is in essence what I do. Then when I plug the TPS back in the idle drops a little to about 800. But maybe that's my specific chip ?

Not sure how you would adjust perfect WOT, almost no vacuum and really 80-90% open is probably flowing the same air as 100% open. Above 3500 rpm or so the S38 is just open loop and dumping fuel in based on the AFM and speed map, and making nice sounds. I think if you do get idle right the rest will be fine.

Randomg · Post by **Randomg** » May 31, 2016 9:35 AM

Went through the whole procedure (I guess I should have done that in the first place) and had better luck. I was able to get my idle down to around 1000 with throttles sync'd at the right vacuum. I think my idle control valve isn't working correctly at this point, but I think I should be ok to fix that later and use the large bypass screw to adjust if necessary without ruining the vacuum syncing of the individual screws. Cylinder 1 and the large bypass screws are tightened all the way, but I guess that's fine if all the measurements are right.

What I meant by perfect WOT is that all butterflies are at the correct angle when resting against the WOT stopper.

For what it's worth tn535i, tuning the idle by the butterfly stoppers didn't end up working well for me. During my drive the on/off throttle transition was worse and my wideband showed noticeably different AFRs at part throttle. Maybe my engine required more variation between the throttles than yours did?

I'll be shipping it back to Healey tomorrow.

tn535i · Post by **tn535i** » May 31, 2016 5:01 PM

This S38 is a tricky beast IMO. Not the smoothest idle and basically ready to make power with just a crack of the throttle. Isn't that what the ITB's are all about.

It sounds like something isn't right with your idle control though. Maybe the TPS or maybe a sticking or bad ICV? For example, unplug your TPS and see if any on/off idle transitions disappear or anything changes, mine will do that. But when the TPS and ICV are active some slight transitions can happen as you go off idle and the ICV goes back to a home or neutral position. I find it worse on deceleration.

The procedure as I read would have you probably set the t/b's for a slightly open or higher idle with TPS unplugged. Opening the big bypass screw will let more air through and should make the computer close the ICV. If the ICV is quite closed and then goes back to about 1/2 as it comes off idle control at the same time the throttle opens it might make for a bigger bump in speed that you want. Is that what you have now?

If the ICV is more open and closes as it comes off idle you might even get a dip in speed. In this case you will also get a bit more engine break if you close the throttle while in gear as the computer tries to close the ICV all the way down to reduce speed but the drivetrain is trying to turn the engine faster. You'll feel that when you lift off throttle in gear. If the ICV is too far open on normal idle it won't have the range it needs for a cold idle either. So this probably worse than the previous.

Somewhere in between is the best compromise. I'm not sure there is a complete win on the S38 as the computer only knows to try to control or not control idle and the range of the ICV is what it is. I don't think there is any logic for anything based on road speed or gear ratio like a newer car. It may take some experimentation to find the sweet spot you like.

I've been tempted to put a scope on the ICV and watch it's open/close times and transitions. That might be a better way to get the base throttle set about right on a warm engine and then balance from there.

Also, I think as long as you don't adjust the t/b stops or individual bypass screws you are not going to loose your balance made. And what I meant on WOT is the minute adjustments at idle mean almost nothing at WOT, certainly < a 1 degree at idle and the difference of 99% vs 100% is nothing at WOT.

Pattonky · Post by **Pattonky** » Jun 04, 2016 7:27 PM

I just got through syncing my throttle bodies with a carb tuner. Only 1 and 6 were off at all. 1 was a little high and 6 was a little low. This made a big difference in the idle. The car seemed to kind of cycle before the adjustment and the idle fluctuated from about 870 to as high as 1050. After adjustment she rides more steady between 890-950. I don't think the adjustment of the throttle bodies altered the RPM so much as it allowed the motor to maintain a more constant rpm. RPM taken with Fluke 88. I suppose I am just kind of posting with the hope that this might be useful info to somebody.

bobby in Derby City · Post by **bobby in Derby City** » Jun 08, 2016 11:46 AM

Pattonky wrote:I just got through syncing my throttle bodies with a carb tuner. Only 1 and 6 were off at all. 1 was a little high and 6 was a little low. This made a big difference in the idle. The car seemed to kind of cycle before the adjustment and the idle fluctuated from about 870 to as high as 1050. After adjustment she rides more steady between 890-950. I don't think the adjustment of the throttle bodies altered the RPM so much as it allowed the motor to maintain a more constant rpm. RPM taken with Fluke 88. I suppose I am just kind of posting with the hope that this might be useful info to somebody.

Fluke 88 and a carb tuner!! I should come down I-64East to see ya so we can do mine

...

Pattonky · Post by **Pattonky** » Jun 09, 2016 9:10 AM

Are you having trouble with your idle or are you just pulling my chain over the tools to do the work? I will confess that I am a believer in having good tools to work with when I do something.

milarsky · Post by **milarsky** » Aug 15, 2016 12:26 AM

Dean,

I was lucky enough to meet Alim this summer, who lives in ABQ. I am in Santa Fe for the summer. He currently is tuning his throttles using your Mantis. We threw it on my car, which runs very well. The throttles were very uneven and after 5 minutes of adjusting them, it was amazing. The thing runs like a scorned dog! What a difference. I cannot thank you enough for sending this thing around. Now we are working on Alim's car, on which we have some baselining to do over this next week.
Many thanks,
jeff

alim_h · Post by **alim_h** » Sep 16, 2016 12:53 AM

Thank you Dean. I just finished getting my throttles adjusted too! Worked out very well and I did notice a difference at idle and just off idle.

The Mantisometer was simple to set up and use - genius idea! Thanks for loaning it out.

I have some pics and videos here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sh8u2e3g8gmu ... ZISJa?dl=0

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Oct 18, 2016 1:48 PM

Great to hear that it worked out. After getting it back I replaced the tubing as it started to yellow and took it and my M5 to the SoCal Vintage BMW meet for a little show and tell. Hooked it up to a couple S38s but the owners weren't brave enough to turn any screws. I don't blame them. Parking lot tuneups never end well. You really need to work through the mechanicals (valves and throttle plates) first. This is the last step.

It was sent to Matt - Defacto in CT after the show. UPS says it arrived on the Oct 13th. Matt, if you see this message, or the PM or my email, can you confirm that you do indeed have it and let me know when you are planning to return it.

Of course if you have any questions post them here or PM/email me.

Thanks,
Dean

MicahO · Post by **MicahO** » Oct 20, 2016 8:04 AM

Hi Dean - if it's made it out to the East Coast and doesn't have another date booked, perhaps I can pick it up from Matt and go through the process with my e28. Maybe even the Touring? Should be physically the same process, I think.....

Maybe get a balancing-fest together? November gets relatively open, in-between sports seasons for the kids means the weekends open up a little.....

MicahO · Post by **MicahO** » Nov 30, 2016 12:24 PM

So I'm done with the use of the Mantismanometer on both the e28M5 (s38B35) and the e34 M5 Touring (S38B38), and it went very well! I went through cleaning the needle valves and new orings, valve adjustment and butterfly settings in the run-up to the Mantis' arrival. I had also roughly set the vacuum on each intake with a gauge - new Oring, full-tight, then out one turn, then set to a rough-bouncing-about-9-inches-of-vacuum with a gauge and a pinched hose. Even that was an improvement for both cars. Then with the Mantis local and a couple of decent weather days I got the real balancing act done.

The touring started fairly balanced right from the rough-set of one-turn-out. On the e28 I did end up moving the screws more than I thought I would to attain leveled readings. The e28's screws were highly variable before I removed them, two almost totally closed and one about 1.5 turns out (that was the factory set with yellow caps). Position isn't what matters, the level of vacuum is, but it did seem strange that there was so much variance in how tight the needle was set.

Also, I'm really not sure what I was smoking, but I did connect the hoses 1-2-3-4-5-6 front to back on both cars, and I'm almost certain that when I adjusted the touring, the cylinder 1 port moved the right-most line of fluid, and on the e28 it adjusted the left-most.

Either way, I got both cars nicely set. The e28 in particular is now more manageable on-off throttle than it had been, and has back all of the immediate off-idle 'pop' that it had been missing after a tank of bad gas on the way home from TedFest in June. It's FAR smoother idling around at parking-lot speeds, and even sounds better. The B38 in the Touring is a far different engine management, which may be why the difference is not *as* noticeable, but there is still a notable improvement all-around.

Really great tool, and MANY THANKS TO DEAN for making it available to the community!

If there is anyone relatively local (NY Tri-State) that wants to do a round of tuning please let me know ASAP. Dean has someone lined up on the Left Coast as the next destination. If I don't hear from anyone semi-local in the next week or so I'll send it westward-ho!

Valve_clatter · Post by **Valve_clatter** » Feb 19, 2017 10:27 PM

Now that I have finally finished with the exhaust, and purchased all the requisite other bits means I actually should probably do this...

BenGerman · Post by **BenGerman** » Feb 23, 2017 9:14 AM

What is the current schedule for the Mantismanometer?
Any chance to get a hold of it before the Vintage?

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Mar 05, 2017 12:13 AM

Ben,

chances are good. It is ready to ship. Send me your contact information (real name, shipping address, phone number, etc) off line and I'll get it in the mail this week.

I have had to refurb the unit a few times, so if I am pivoting off the free rental program to now include a use fee to cover incidentals.

2017 pricing is as as follows:

$25 to get it shipped out.(USPS) plus,
$100 deposit (includes use fee) for a total of,
$125 due at time of rental (pal pay to healeybn7@yahoo.com)

Two week rental time unless agreed-to up front.

You will have to pay for shipping it back to me and when returned, you will receive $75 back on paypal.

I can send you an updated pdf that includes corrections and tips from others. Be sure to read the pdf before ordering the Mantis as you may want to have a set of o-rings on hand before starting. This is the last step in the tuning process, so valves should be dialed in before hand as well.

Dean

BenGerman · Post by **BenGerman** » Mar 05, 2017 1:35 AM

I will not need it before the end of April, so it doesn't make sense to get it this exact moment.
Hope a couple more people can squeeze in before me. End of April/ beginning of may would be perfect. I will keep following in here!

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Mar 06, 2017 10:55 AM

BenGerman wrote:I will not need it before the end of April, so it doesn't make sense to get it this exact moment.
Hope a couple more people can squeeze in before me. End of April/ beginning of may would be perfect. I will keep following in here!

If you set your throttle plates ahead of time, another option is to meet up at Vintage (assuming it is the So Cal Vintage in Woodland Hills) and tune it "live on the grass".

I just wanted to clarify my thoughts about the change in deposit. The ~$20 use fee isn't intended to discourage anyone from borrowing the tool. After paypal fees and rounding it probably nets to $15 and I would be happy to reconsider if with a little encouragement.

It has been borrowed a lot over the past few years. Shipping is supposed to be smooth but stuff just seems to happen to it as it moves around.

There was a time where the unit was dropped off at a UPS store, mislabeled and sent to the wrong address. Thankfully I received a box of jerseys that were meant for someone else and we eventually exchanged packages. And then there was a time when the box arrived open and the dial indicator was missing... and then there was a time when the oil cap wasn't screwed on and it looked like a box of donor organs...

Let me know what works for you. Happy to help.

Dean

keeper · Post by **keeper** » May 04, 2017 8:12 PM

I know it´s been tow years since your post, but I´m just getting to adjusting the ITBs in my E28 ///M5; which by the way it´s the only one in existence in Colombia, South America. It´s been kinda rough restoring this monster due to the unavailability of parts, not to mention knowledge about this specific subject. Anyway, I want to thank all those who took part in this conversation; I was delightfully enlightened on the subject. By the way, I have installed a Megasquirt II module.

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Jun 05, 2017 11:02 PM

Just a quick update on the Mantis Manometer.

Since putting it together a couple years ago and making it available for enthusiast use, it has been in almost constant circulation. It came as a surprise to me that some of you would like to have your own manometers, so I built a few for enthusiasts and shops.

The current "rental unit" was refurbished a month ago and I guess it was nice enough that the techs at ACE Performance convinced the boss to buy it instead of sending it back.

Yesterday I ordered enough supplies to make three manometers. I'll keep a rental unit in circulation, build one for myself, and offer one for purchase. While it is a simple device it is time consuming to assemble as a couple parts require machining.

If you are waiting to borrow the tool, Jason Rhee is next in line and will receive a brand new rental. If you want to buy one, check back shortly and I'll post some photos of a finished product and hopefully have a good handle on a price.

Thanks for your support,
Dean

Post by **mooseheadm5** » Jun 06, 2017 4:26 PM

I would be interested in owning one of those and would happily pop them onto the Moosehead site for you to sell if you wanted.

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Jun 06, 2017 5:03 PM

Paul,

Wow. That is very generous. I'll get cracking on making a few and PM you shortly so we can chat about small print stuff.

Dean

socalM5 · Post by **socalM5** » Jun 09, 2017 6:16 PM

Great product. Extremely well made these will sell to the S38 enthusiast community very well

Valve_clatter · Post by **Valve_clatter** » Jun 15, 2017 10:55 AM

Would like to hop on the list to get the Mantis Meter, really could use it.

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Jun 15, 2017 4:33 PM

Valve_clatter wrote:Would like to hop on the list to get the Mantis Meter, really could use it.

PM sent. You are on the list, second in line, but you can buy one and skip the queue:)

Dean

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Jun 15, 2017 6:35 PM

The new Mantis Manometer is just about ready. Here is a sneak peak before I pack it for Jason.

The R2 version now comes "factory" vacuum tested and calibrated to -292 mBar or ~8.5 inHg. A fill line location is now indicated so no guessing on the fluid volume, and a more compact light weight design should allow you to get it closer to the car. With the preset calibration it will be easier to achieve BMWs average ideal intake specification.

The loaner tool which you are viewing still comes with the breakable hinge pin for easy USPS shipping, but I am assembling a run of tools that are mounted to a single board and can be shipped in a shipping tube.

I am pretty happy with this final design. I'll post some close up photos once they are officially for sale via Moosehead (and yes I still need to call you).

Thank you everyone for your ideas and feedback. We made a good tool together!

Enjoy,
Dean

Das_Prachtstrasse · Post by **Das_Prachtstrasse** » Jun 16, 2017 9:17 AM

Fantastic. If you end up making enough to offer through Pauls' website, I'd be grateful to help make those mantis' legs stretch across the pacific. It would be nice to have one in circulation around Australia and I'll be in need of the tool very soon so please keep me posted. Literally.

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Jun 18, 2017 10:52 PM

Father's Day proved to be a productive time to work on the Manometers.

tn535i · Post by **tn535i** » Jun 19, 2017 8:10 AM

So I already have my own 'home grown' way of doing this but I'm tempted. You have done a nice job including the design and name. I would probably balance much more often and mine is probably due.

Does it need to have the height you used or is that just in case one is left open so it doesn't suck all the fluid out ? In other words if you had a way to prevent an accidental open tube couldn't it be much shorter and shallow fill level? Is that something you have tested for? And I assume it will work just as well if you plug three and just use three (Triumph Triple) or two or four, other motorcycles for example.

At work a couple of us are working on what started as a bootleg project idea where I made the first few sets of parts on my lathe at home. Now it's got drawings and a machine shop making the first parts and we are talking to others for packaging and assembly. We don't know if we will sell hundreds or thousands but it's really more of a service to our customers and it is fun to see it take on a life of it's own .

If you can tap into the right outlets you might go into production yourself.

milarsky · Post by **milarsky** » Jun 19, 2017 9:49 AM

Dean,

Thanks so much for making these. Put me down for a purchase of one. Are they available yet?
best,
jeff

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Jun 19, 2017 1:43 PM

tn535i wrote: Does it need to have the height you used or is that just in case one is left open so it doesn't suck all the fluid out ? In other words if you had a way to prevent an accidental open tube couldn't it be much shorter and shallow fill level? Is that something you have tested for? And I assume it will work just as well if you plug three and just use three (Triumph Triple) or two or four, other motorcycles for example.

It is 32" tall. There needs to be a bit of height above the fluid level in the event the ITBs are wildly out of balance and the small tall tubes allow the vacuum to pull the fluid up far enough to make adjusting easy. I am assuming that all tubes will be connected and there will be a plug on the fill tube. There are multiple warnings in the instructions. Worst case is you draw in some oil and refill the manometer. I would think that wouldn't happen more than one time. I haven't done it yet, but I suspect it would be a "leaning experience". It is one of the reasons I decided to use Marvel Mystery Oil instead of a water based fluid. You never know.

I don't see why you could not use two, three, or four of the ports and just plug the other two. I have a set of Jenevy style ITBs on our Ford Zetec/Europa. I am planning to use it once I create vacuum ports. It should prove pretty universal.

To calibrate the tool the amount of fluid in the fill tube is critical as it the amount of sealed air above it the fill fluid. The tall tube makes it easy to add just the right amount. If you look closely at the photos you see two different fill tube heights. That was due to a small difference in the ID of the fill tubes. I suppose you could use a shorter fatter hose, or a small cylinder in the manifold, or make a larger manifold with a large capacity for reserve fluid.... Hmm.

It would be very exciting if these take off and I have to look for a manufacturing source. Congratulations on your project!

Dean

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Jun 20, 2017 1:14 PM

For those interested Mantis-Manometers are available for sale at:

http://www.mantismanometers.bigcartel.com

You will have an option to purchase just the manometer or the manometer plus the dial indicator with ITB mount. Price includes shipping.

Thank you all for your support and enthusiasm.

Dean

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Jun 20, 2017 7:15 PM

If you tried to contact me through the web site, we just updated the bigcartel-Manometer email address and added payment options for Paypal/Visa/Mastercard/etc. We should be good to go for real orders. If you have any questions or concerns, please reach out via PM or here. I'll keep a close eye on mye28 to make sure we don't drop the ball in any way.

Thanks,
Dean

Karl Grau · Post by **Karl Grau** » Jun 20, 2017 10:03 PM

I'm in.
Thanks for doing this.

Das_Prachtstrasse · Post by **Das_Prachtstrasse** » Jun 20, 2017 11:14 PM

Fantastic. Dean can you please pass on package dimensions and weight so I can get an estimate for international shipping? As your website doesn't support international shipping I'll have it shipped through my freight forwarding address if it's not viable to ship via a US based friend of mine. Thanks in advance!

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Jun 20, 2017 11:45 PM

I just could not figure out how to enable international shipping. Thanks for hanging in there.

The best packaging I found is through a USPS medium shipping tube (or triangle). It is 36"x 6"x 6". Weight 3lbs without the dial indicator option. Getting the weight down with this new design should pay off with shipping savings for everyone!

The box says it is for international shipping...

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Jun 22, 2017 2:19 PM

All paid orders shipped out yesterday. The exception was a special run this morning.

Sales were brisk. The http://mantismanometers.bigcartel.com web site seems to be working well, but if you have any questions or would rather work directly with me via PM, that is fine too.

More supplies are on the way. Thanks all!

Dean

Karl Grau · Post by **Karl Grau** » Jun 23, 2017 9:22 PM

I got mine today and I'm very impressed with the build quality. I'm ordering O rings and am planning a valve adjustment. I've only put 6,365 miles on in the ten years I've owned it but I don't know when they were done last.

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Jun 23, 2017 11:27 PM

Karl Grau wrote:I got mine today and I'm very impressed with the build quality.

So glad you like it. I just love that testimonial! Now lift those long tubes up on the air and get that magic red oil back in the reservoir;)

I was thinking about offering o-rings on the web site or throwing them into the mix somehow. Do you think that would be helpful?

Thoughts?

Dean

Karl Grau · Post by **Karl Grau** » Jun 24, 2017 6:47 PM

HealeyBN7 wrote:I was thinking about offering o-rings on the web site or throwing them into the mix somehow. Do you think that would be helpful?

Thoughts?

I think that's a great idea. That way, people can hit the ground running so to speak when they receive their package. I would have gladly paid extra for the O rings.

I made a hook for it using a piece from a plastic hangar:

And a shackle from my sailing Box-O-Junk ®. The shackle doesn't have to be this long, it's just the one I had that worked best. I might dip the hook in Plasti-Dip just so it doesn't scratch anything.

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Jun 27, 2017 5:23 PM

I love the hook idea. Too bad you had to take apart your sail boat:)

I kept grabbing short pieces of black 12 gauge copper wire from my scrap electrical supplies. I have wires hanging all over the place now.

I am getting close to understanding what changes are needed to produce an S14 version. I did some testing on my Zetec 2.0L Lotus with ITBs. I thought it was perfect with the German Synchronizer squirrel fan, but the Manometer proved otherwise. The vacuum signal was much stronger, so I have a dampener in the circuit and changed the fill volume, cap and tube size. The Lotus runs great now.

Some of the changes from the S14 testing I'll roll into the next batch of S38 manometers.

It would be fun to do a tech session now that there are several tools circulating with experienced enthusiasts.

Cheers,
Dean

MrZ · Post by **MrZ** » Jul 22, 2017 4:57 PM

Just placed an order. I've been waiting ages to get something resembling decent idle quality after adding schrick 280s and 50mm throttle bodies to the stoker motor in the E34. I'll post a review and before/after results once I get some time to get it done.

Thanks Dean!

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Jul 22, 2017 8:38 PM

Excellent. I saw the order come in earlier today just before attending a memorial for a great car guy. I'll send you the tracking I find when it ships. It will probably go out on Wednesday. Be sure to reach out if you have any questions. I updated the instructions recently based on community feedback.

Dean

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Aug 07, 2017 12:21 PM

Just finished testing an S14 version of the Mantis-Manometer on a friend's E30 M3. We anticipated and encountered the same issue I had when testing it on my Lotus. The 4 cylinder vacuum pulses are more violent then the S38, so we had to install dampeners between the silicone lines and the clear tubing.

I'll post some photos, a video and update http://mantismanometers.bigcartel.com/ web site so you can see the S14 tune in action....as soon as I finish working on my range rover brakes:(

Dean

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Aug 07, 2017 9:42 PM

Here is a short video of the S14 version in use on an 88 E30M3. https://youtu.be/gKquThe88AQ

Dean

milarsky · Post by **milarsky** » Aug 08, 2017 2:11 AM

Hey Dean,

Looking forward to the Mantis!

best,
jeff

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Aug 13, 2017 10:45 AM

Jeff,

Thank you. According to USPS you should be getting your Manometer tomorrow. Watch for the triangle shipping tube!

Also, it was nice to learn that Rob in the UK received his manometer. http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.ph ... 66#p208066

And I shipped the first production S14 version yesterday.

Dean
http://mantismanometers.bigcartel.com/

Das_Prachtstrasse · Post by **Das_Prachtstrasse** » Aug 15, 2017 11:32 PM

I apologize for not commenting sooner, I mustn't have clicked send on the post - my manometer arrived a few weeks ago in one piece and looks to be very well thought out and assembled.. No spillage or leaks from the mystery oil, dial indicator and attachment worked well in setting the throttle plates. Haven't hooked it up to a car yet but I look forward to doing so!

Thanks again, Dean!

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Mar 11, 2018 6:15 PM

Taking the latest batch of S38 Manometer orders to the Post Office on Monday. Thank you!!!

Keep those ITBs in tune:)

Dean

HealeyBN7 · Post by **HealeyBN7** » Apr 04, 2018 12:30 AM

I finally took some photos of Ben German's ITB adapters and tried them out on our S38. What a fantastic addition to the Mantis Manometer. The full laminated instruction set has been modified to include Ben's adapters as well as the Big Cartel web site. Ben's ITB adapters work so well, I am no longer offering the modified adapter I was providing with the earlier sets.

You can purchase three adapters and three dial indicators along with the manometer or just the manometer by itself.

You can see the updated web site here.

mantismanometers.bigcartel.com

Thank you Ben - Great addition to the ITB tool set!

See you at Vintage.

Dean

MicahO · Post by **MicahO** » Apr 04, 2018 7:58 AM

HealeyBN7 wrote:
See you at Vintage.

Dean

You coming to Vintage? Excellent! I'll have the kit up for tuning and demos, alongside Ben's various tools, in a vendor spot.