GOD'S VENGEANCE - Complete Drivetrain Redux
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Not everything is there yet. Rocker arm retainers aren't necessary if everything is set up properly. Besides, they oval the rocker shafts when you torque them down. Originally I thought I'd need them.86GT635 wrote:Nice!
Noticed the lack of a breather on the valve cover. And you and Paul didn't go with rocker arm retainers, what will your redline be?
Red line will be 7k.
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- Beamter
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Still researching a few items to complete the build:wkohler wrote:Very nice! What's left to do before you can start putting everything together?
- -Engine management system - MS perhaps
-Modify S38/B35 air accumulator for TCD S3 intercooler inlet
-Flywheel/clutch - CNS Racing twin-disk perhaps: http://www.cnsracing.com/CNS-Racing-TWI ... M6twin.htm
-Finish building center console gauge pod with: boost, AFR and EGT or intake charge temp gauges
-Front calipers/rotors - AP Racing or Alcon 4-piston most likely with 12# 328 x 29mm Motorsport rotors attached with some custom lightweight T-6061 aluminum and anodized black rotor hats from Jon (pics below)
-High flow fuel pump installed in tank with larger diameter lines (running E85 in a reconditioned tank)
-Swap electric seat center console with manual
-Weld in 524 battery tray - using TD washer tank
-Assemble Hartge Design C 17 x 8.5 & 17 x 9.5 wheels - back from powder coat and micro-ceramic polish (Speedway Polishing in Santa Ana) on the lips - all new 10-pt OZ hardware ($$$) from Germany
-Figure out which tires and tire size makes sense for what I'm doing with the car
-Larger aluminum radiator and heat exchangers for W>A intercooler
-4-point roll bar - required for Bonneville >125mph classes
This project is going to take another year to complete.
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If you want, i can send it down to you, only 3 weeks deliver time in NorwayMurfinator wrote:Thanks for the link. Does anyone know whether this PP would bolt to an E28 M5 flywheel?Q-ship wrote:Link above is no good, Sachs won't let you link from their PDF catalog.
http://en.sachsperformance.com/sachs-ra ... 1088-0592/
Unfortunately, that pressure plate seems to be unobtainium in the states. Good for you guys in Europe, though. Does anyone have a source in the states?
I've suffered Sach's 'availability' issues in the past having ordered the Sport PP only wait four months for it to be manufactured and shipped from Germany. This was especially annoying since the car was on jacks with the old slushbox removed and sold.
Why would I not be able to order the linked PP and just wait a few months for it to arrive?
Nice uppgrade
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Where's the rings?!?!
Figured I'd post the eye candy first for the ADDr's.
The motor assembly got off to a shaky start when it was discovered the piston rings walked off sometime during the 11 months they sat in a box at the machine shop. Oh well. Paul has come through with another set and talked me into going gapless. Those are all new Kolbenschmidt (KS) main and rod bearings and bushings.
Since my build has some similarities with Ken's Lucifer's Hammer build I've started getting some excellent insight into various aspects I hadn't fully considered:
Use of log exhaust manifold: a 666 Fabrication tubular manifold would be nice but I'll stick with the iron TCD log for now. Besides, I'd like to break the 500hp threshold prior to an expensive upgrade. It's not as if I haven't spent enough money on this sucker already.
GT-35R Turbo: This may be an ideal setup for a stock M30 but that's not what we're dealing with. May be looking at an upgrade later on. For now, it will have to do. Tuning and road/track time will bear out which direction to go for a more ideal component choice.
Dogleg - Sport Transmission: I have it on good authority that there is little chance of destroying this tranny unless I get in the habit of dropping the clutch in first at 4k RPM's. First gear in the sport transmission is intended as a 'pit' gear. Between the shift pattern and gearing I expect it to function admirably.
Fuel Supply: Lots of great advice has been flowing in lately regarding this aspect of the build. We've hatched some interesting plans which will likely involve: in-tank aftermarket pump, Aeroquip fittings, larger diameter feed & return hardlines, floating pick-up and several modifications to the OE fuel tank. The tank is being disassembled, cleaned and epoxied.
Water>Air Intercooler: In addition to a bigger & better coolant pump for the intercooler I'll be adding a larger reservoir and more efficient heat exchangers. May use the Hartge airdam's brake cooling inlets to force air flow across the heat exchangers.
Engine Management: Rethinking going with an MS-3 setup. Considering a Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 or Electromotive TEC-3R.
Clutch: CNS offers a clutch kit which appears ideal for my purposes:
"- CNS Racing only offers a full face carbon semi-metallic clutch disk which has proven longevity and OEM streetability. This in turn eliminates the chance of premature failure due to clutch disk glazing which occurs in OEM and competitor kits that have an Organic disk lining.
- Identical if not better OEM pedal feel.
- Completely plug and play just like the OEM kit.
- 700+ rear wheel torque capacity. Great streetability and Racing use.
- It is a complete kit including the streetable high clamp pressure plate, full face carbon semi-metallic disc and OEM release bearing."
Figured I'd post the eye candy first for the ADDr's.
The motor assembly got off to a shaky start when it was discovered the piston rings walked off sometime during the 11 months they sat in a box at the machine shop. Oh well. Paul has come through with another set and talked me into going gapless. Those are all new Kolbenschmidt (KS) main and rod bearings and bushings.
Since my build has some similarities with Ken's Lucifer's Hammer build I've started getting some excellent insight into various aspects I hadn't fully considered:
Use of log exhaust manifold: a 666 Fabrication tubular manifold would be nice but I'll stick with the iron TCD log for now. Besides, I'd like to break the 500hp threshold prior to an expensive upgrade. It's not as if I haven't spent enough money on this sucker already.
GT-35R Turbo: This may be an ideal setup for a stock M30 but that's not what we're dealing with. May be looking at an upgrade later on. For now, it will have to do. Tuning and road/track time will bear out which direction to go for a more ideal component choice.
Dogleg - Sport Transmission: I have it on good authority that there is little chance of destroying this tranny unless I get in the habit of dropping the clutch in first at 4k RPM's. First gear in the sport transmission is intended as a 'pit' gear. Between the shift pattern and gearing I expect it to function admirably.
Fuel Supply: Lots of great advice has been flowing in lately regarding this aspect of the build. We've hatched some interesting plans which will likely involve: in-tank aftermarket pump, Aeroquip fittings, larger diameter feed & return hardlines, floating pick-up and several modifications to the OE fuel tank. The tank is being disassembled, cleaned and epoxied.
Water>Air Intercooler: In addition to a bigger & better coolant pump for the intercooler I'll be adding a larger reservoir and more efficient heat exchangers. May use the Hartge airdam's brake cooling inlets to force air flow across the heat exchangers.
Engine Management: Rethinking going with an MS-3 setup. Considering a Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 or Electromotive TEC-3R.
Clutch: CNS offers a clutch kit which appears ideal for my purposes:
"- CNS Racing only offers a full face carbon semi-metallic clutch disk which has proven longevity and OEM streetability. This in turn eliminates the chance of premature failure due to clutch disk glazing which occurs in OEM and competitor kits that have an Organic disk lining.
- Identical if not better OEM pedal feel.
- Completely plug and play just like the OEM kit.
- 700+ rear wheel torque capacity. Great streetability and Racing use.
- It is a complete kit including the streetable high clamp pressure plate, full face carbon semi-metallic disc and OEM release bearing."
Michael,
I would caution you to believe the claims of CNS racing. Similar to cheap and turbo, 700rwhp capacity and OEM drivability just do not equate.
Also the GT35R will support your HP goals. The more efficient you make the engine the happier the GT35R will be. It has supported 600+rwhp in efficient 3L engines. You will need to consider a bigger exh housing. .69 or .81
Todd
I would caution you to believe the claims of CNS racing. Similar to cheap and turbo, 700rwhp capacity and OEM drivability just do not equate.
Also the GT35R will support your HP goals. The more efficient you make the engine the happier the GT35R will be. It has supported 600+rwhp in efficient 3L engines. You will need to consider a bigger exh housing. .69 or .81
Todd
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nice build!
I had a dogleg trans,& hated it.
1st is too low,2nd is too close,finally in third you get to stay in gear long enough to feel the boost, of course, final drive ratio plays an important role as well.
I'm running 255/40/17 on 3.45 diff.
I plan on going to 255/45/17 in the future, a little taller as the motor has plenty of torque
good luck
marc
I had a dogleg trans,& hated it.
1st is too low,2nd is too close,finally in third you get to stay in gear long enough to feel the boost, of course, final drive ratio plays an important role as well.
I'm running 255/40/17 on 3.45 diff.
I plan on going to 255/45/17 in the future, a little taller as the motor has plenty of torque
good luck
marc
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The front, rear and side skirts are all Hartge pieces.Pedi wrote:What brand are those sideskirts that you have on your car? I cannot recall seeing something similar before. The front is Zender, right?
I've recently completed refinishing of a set of 17x8.5 ET13 and 17x9.5 ET21 Hartge Design C wheels. The BBS's fell through and in a way I'm glad they did because I feel they are played out. The Hartges are a better match to the other vehicle modifications and I've lusted after a set of Design C's since seeing them in the flesh and the '09 BMWCCA West Coast Concurs on Ron's H5S masterpiece. During the rebuild the barrels, centers and lips were blasted. The barrels and centers were powder coated. The lips were polished and given a micro-ceramic finish at Specialty Coatings in Santa Ana, CA. This finish gives a mirror-like glow yet none of the regular polishing because it doesn't oxidize. The plastic center caps are wet paint that was matched to the centers plus a clear coat. Everything was bolted together with authentic OZ 10-point bolts and nuts from Claus of Felgen-Garage in Germany (http://www.felgen-man.de/english/indexenglish.html). Those bolts are $2.55 EACH!
Researching tires now. Reconsidering using tires intended for strictly track use on the road. I intend the car to never see rain and heaven forbid snow but you can't predict mother nature. Perhaps some Dunlop Star Specs in 225/45 and 265/40's.
Last edited by Murfinator on Nov 06, 2011 9:56 PM, edited 1 time in total.
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Beautiful job on the wheels!Murfinator wrote:The front, rear and side skirts are all Hartge pieces.Pedi wrote:What brand are those sideskirts that you have on your car? I cannot recall seeing something similar before. The front is Zender, right?
I've recently completed refinishing of a set of 17x8.5 ET13 and 17x9.5 ET21 Hartge Design C wheels. The BBS's fell through and in a way I'm glad they did because I feel they are played out. The Hartges are a better match to the other vehicle modifications and I've lusted after a set of Design C's since seeing them in the flesh and the '09 BMWCCA West Coast Concurs on Ron's H5S masterpiece. During the rebuild the barrels, centers and lips were blasted. The barrels and centers were powder coated. The lips were polished and given a micro-ceramic finish at Specialty Coatings in Santa Ana, CA. This finish gives a mirror-like glow yet none of the regular polishing because it doesn't oxidize. The plastic center caps are wet paint that was matched to the centers plus a clear coat. Everything was bolted together with authentic OZ 10-point bolts and nuts from Claus of Felgen-Garage in Germany (http://www.felgen-man.de/english/indexenglish.html). Those bolts are $2.55 EACH!
Researching tires now. Reconsidering using tires intended for strictly track use on the road. I intend the car to never see rain and heaven forbid snow but you can't predict mother nature. Perhaps some Dunlop Star Specs in 225/45 and 265/40's.
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During the past week or so I've done more research and have gotten excellent feedback from professionals and enthusiasts. There has been a re-evaluation of the entire build which has resulted in some mission-creep. Here are the basics:
All fuel lines have been removed.
- - Fabricate a stainless tubular, equal length, top-mount exhaust manifold and downpipe
- Air to air intercooler
- Customize OE fuel tank retaining sending unit and adding a gerotor pump (Holley 12-1400) in-tank in a separate access hatch with a floating pick-up. Supply and return bungs will be welded in the side of the tank and attach to hardlines attaching the fuel tank to an Imagineering fuel rail feeding the 65# low-z injectors. Fueling requirements for the motor require a minimum of 70 gph at 43 psi. The spec'd fuel pump will deliver 122 gph at 43 psi. That gives me 42% overhead capacity.
- Upsize all fuel lines to -10 AN, 5/8 OD. Pointless to upgrade the pump and try to push the fuel through a straw.
All fuel lines have been removed.
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