MyE28.com

grey ghost wrote:

Brad D. wrote:

grey ghost wrote:Then I just want to drive it for a while..........

I can completely understand that. You need that time to figure out
a) what you need to re-do/fix
b)decide that you want more power
It's a vicious cycle. Enjoy.

It was hard work getting to were I am now, so a little fun is in order before I go to the next level.

I can testify.

Enjoy the car for a while. It's going to take a few weeks to get it tuned just right. I cant wait to see this thing when its done. I'm test fitting a intercooler for my setup this weekend.

clongo wrote:Enjoy the car for a while. It's going to take a few weeks to get it tuned just right. I cant wait to see this thing when its done. I'm test fitting a intercooler for my setup this weekend.

Thanks.
On the advice of the experts, I'm going to move my IC fan to the back and box in my air filter.......
Looks like I wont get it back from the exhaust shop today.

Are you running a wideband o2? If you are, tune the car at idle and partial throttle via the afm. Then Get a co pilot to watch your o2 gauge under boost so you can adjust the begi and not risk running lean. Have a co pilot for tuning under boost made my life a lot easier and less stressful/dangerous.

You are definitely going to need a wideband o2. No other way to do it right. And having a co-pilot/driver can help tremendously during the tuning process.

Brad D. wrote:You are definitely going to need a wideband o2. No other way to do it right. And having a co-pilot/driver can help tremendously during the tuning process.

Wide band o2 is in route.
What will the co-pilot's job be?

grey ghost wrote:What will the co-pilot's job be?

Duke wrote:

grey ghost wrote:What will the co-pilot's job be?

I know, I know. Cut me some slack.
I just finished replacing a driveshaft in Fido's M535i in the heat on the ground with no food in my stomach.
My brain was on auto pilot when I asked that.
Once I took control of my body back it was all clear.

wideband enroute.

T_C_D wrote:wideband enroute.

Thanks much!

Got the exhaust done.
Got her back home and installed the ecu.
She cranks strong back wont start at all.

My gas gauge says empty BUT when I parked the car 8 weeks ago it had over 1/2 a tank of gas.

SO, I'm on my way to the gas station to get some gas.
My gauges worked fine the last time the car ran......

So it begins................have fun!

Make sure you didn't knock a speed/ reference sensor plug loose or connect them to the wrong receptacle if you unhooked them at any point during your install.

Not sure why gauges don't work but double check all fuses.

Brad D. wrote:Make sure you didn't knock a speed/ reference sensor plug loose or connect them to the wrong receptacle if you unhooked them at any point during your install.

Not sure why gauges don't work but double check all fuses.

Gauges are working now. Had a blown fuse.
Full tank of gas.
I have fuel pressure.
I didn't disconnect the speed/ref sensors.
I checked all grounds.

Ref sensor 726ohms speed 723ohms on 1/2 with no reading on 1/3 or 2/3.
Should be 960 +/- 96.
Not sure if its me, my meter or the sensors.
Coil read .6ohms

Could they both go dead or give low readings at the same time?

Also I have a low battery reading on my meter.

Chip in backwards? Try the old ecu.

T_C_D wrote:Chip in backwards? Try the old ecu.

When I installed it I was sure to have the semi circle in the same orientation, but just an hour ago I checked it again to be sure, chip is in correct.

I do have spark, so that means my ref/speed sensors are ok correct?
I was able to rig something to keep the key turned while using cylinder #1 spark plug wire with a spare spark plug in it out on the valve cover.

I thinks its the ecu.
Too bad I already sold and shipped mine to a board member who is very happy with it. So I have no backup.
I bought a "known good" ecu for a "great price" from a board member.
I'm sure that thing is dead, but he said he would refund me.
Now I have to hunt for another one.

So I'll come clean. I sold him the ECU which was working just fine when I pulled it (swapped to a 28 pin for my Warchip).

Refund on the way with sincerest apologies!

TodB wrote:So I'll come clean. I sold him the ECU which was working just fine when I pulled it (swapped to a 28 pin for my Warchip).

Refund on the way with sincerest apologies!

We are not sure yet its the ecu. No need to come clean.
I just need to relax, which is something I'm not used to doing.
Don't send a dime yet dude.

OK, keep me posted (though I did refund you $ already)

So I have fuel, spark and air, but it still wont run.
I thought I'd come home, fill it with oil and antifreeze, connect the battery and it would at least start, NOT.

This is going to be a journey, I can feel it.
Todd has be helping with the "no start" issue. Big props to him.
I'm going to have some french fries right now, comfort food.......

If you have all three, they have to be at the wrong time, wrong quantity or both. Are you fouling plugs? Overly rich?

Brad D. wrote:If you have all three, they have to be at the wrong time, wrong quantity or both. Are you fouling plugs? Overly rich?

I pulled the #1 plug, it was a little wet but not loaded.
I put 10 clicks on the afm as directed but still nothing.

How did you determine spark? Is the wideband installed yet? Any sign of it trying to start at all?

Brad D. wrote:How did you determine spark? Is the wideband installed yet? Any sign of it trying to start at all?

I pulled the plug wire off #1 and put a spare plug in and turned the key, there was a spark jumping across...
Wideband should arrive tomrrow.
Zero sign on trying to start, I mean nothing, it just turns over.

I'll pull all the plugs tomorrow to recheck gap.

Check cap, rotor....make sure wires are in the right spot on the cap and on the correct plugs.

Check relays.

Something is fundamentally wrong. It's not spark plug gap or something minor like that. These engines will run under horrible conditions so something is very wrong.

If you are positive the fuel system is installed correctly than you need to look at the ignition. Are you sure the cam position is correct?

T_C_D wrote:Something is fundamentally wrong. It's not spark plug gap or something minor like that. These engines will run under horrible conditions so something is very wrong.

That doesn't sound good at all....

Remember I had the head off.
I'm sure I did everything right. I followed bently and torqued everything to spec.
When installing the head I had #1 set at TDC by the machine shop and I look at it myself.
I've done my valves 1/2 a dozen times so I know what that looks like.
I had the #1 piston all the way up and looked for the mark on the crank wheel to be sure.
I do have a b35 cam in it. Not sure if that is a deal breaker. Hope not.

T_C_D wrote:Are you sure the cam position is correct?

Even if the cam was off a couple of teeth, it should start. I bet it is the ignition (ECU) or he has a tennis ball stuck in the intake.

Do you have the ground strap connected to the head.....how about your other grounds from the wire harness to the head?

Going to tear it down tomorrow.
I feel I did everything right.
Obviously not.

grey ghost wrote:Going to tear it down tomorrow.
I feel I did everything right.
Obviously not.

BTDT and have the suit (T-shirt is for amateurs) to prove it. Sleep will help...... believe it or not, I have fixed a lot of my perplexing car issues in my sleep. I dream of the fix.