OT - E34 SLS delete

[1st 5er]

I've deleted the SLS on an E28 ///M5 and know it has a different hydraulic set up than the E34, thus the question.

In tying off the hydraulic supply that goes to the rear, where and what will be the cleanest way to do this?


Move this thread to Tech Talk if necessary.
I put it here because it's not E28 specific.

[davintosh]

BavAuto; SLELIM KIT-E34M

Self Leveling Elimination Kit - Springs and Shocks Sold Separately $149.95



I remember someone on BimmerForums talking about using a similar kit on an e32.

[ElGuappo]

That kits a ripoff.

I did it the hard way on my old 525iT, I replaced the pump, reservoir and just removed the lines.

Someone sells a loop back hose you install at the rear, you bypass the SLS driver back there.

I have some good Sachs E34 rears if you are interested.

[Coldswede]

The problem with eliminating the E34 SLS is not replacing the suspension, as Sherman is aware of. The problem lies in finding a clean and accessible way to reroute the pressure feed from the pump. There isn't much room down there! I would think, as Jay suggested, a loop feed is the best. Just blocking off the ports may cause some kind of hydraulic problems. Replacing the pump is probably the "Correct" way to go but a hassle and expense.

I'd just put a nice custom made loop line in.

Also you need to deactivate that level sensor on the right rear axle. It's just a small lever that moves up and down and opens or closes the pressure flow. If you leave it in place as installed it will drive you crazy.

[tsmall07]

SLS is not the same as the EDC on 540 M-Sports, correct?

[E.rouzbeh.28]

Sorry for the noob question, but why do the SLS delete?

[ElGuappo]

They will all leak, not if but when, and the replacement parts are incredibly expensive.

SLS is great in theory, but a PITA in real life.

[mooseheadm5]

I'm at work, so I didn't read everything, but you CANNOT plug the pressure line to the SLS. That will blow up your PS pump.

You can remove the pump and remove the valve so it doesn't make any pressure on that SLS portion of the pump. Aaron managed to do that in about 10 minutes.

Second choice is to plug the outlets from the accumulators with M12 bolts and crush washers, then lock the SLS valve arm to prevent it trying to pressurize the system (the valve returns fluid in the neutral position.)

Final choice is to remove everything and run a regular M50 single pump vs. the tandem SLS pump.

I'd do the first or the last, but currently mine is done with method 2.

[1st 5er]

Thanks for the offer Jay, and the explanation as to why they get removed.
I've got all the replacement parts in place, I just knew it wasn't as simple as the E28.
$18.00 a quart fluid is too expensive as well.

Thanks for the tips everyone else.
It'll be up in the air tomorrow and hopefully I'll be able to use one of the aforementioned suggestions and get it back on the ground using what I've got on hand.
First, it'll get a trip to the car wash to get rid of all the accumulated road debris.
It's pretty nasty and thick up under the driver's side wheel well.

Paul,
Any more details on "how to" what Aaron did?
That sounds like the easiest/cheapest solution.

Thanks guys...

[1st 5er]

BavAuto; SLELIM KIT-E34M

Self Leveling Elimination Kit - Springs and Shocks Sold Separately $149.95



I remember someone on BimmerForums talking about using a similar kit on an e32.

Thanks Dave.
From your post I was able to find the instructions with a pic, which is the way I learn best.
http://www.bavauto.com/Assets/inst_pages/ins254.pdf

The only thing I'll need from this kit would be the "Union Connector (M10 X 1.0)".
Any leads as to where I could pick one of these up? Would a local hardware store stock them?

I've got another problem, leaking hoses up front that leak worse than the rear part of the system.
I'm thinking I'll just replace the power steering pump with a non dual purpose unit.
My questions in relation to this are:
1 - which pump (any M30 pump)?
2 - which hoses (will non-///M hoses work)?
3 - can I switch to ATF fluid instead of the Petosin?

[Nicke28]

Sorry for the noob question, but why do the SLS delete?

Aftermarket coilover setups usually produce better performance and are cheaper to replace than the SLS.

[Nicke28]

Found this on Bimmerforums. Don't know if it helps or not...
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... LS+removal

[Rich Euro M5]

Try an auto parts place. M10 x 1.0 is a standard size for Euro brake lines.

[wkohler]

I'd just get the PS setup off of a 535i and remove everything else.

Of course, I'm different than most people.

[1st 5er]

I'd just get the PS setup off of a 535i and remove everything else.

E28 or E34?

[1st 5er]

Try an auto parts place. M10 x 1.0 is a standard size for Euro brake lines.

Will do, just in case, thanks.

[wkohler]

This is on an E34 M5, right?

[1st 5er]

Yes.

[wkohler]

Then I think we'd want the E34 parts.

That said, I think I'd ask around say on M5board or something to those that have deleted their SLS. To me, the E34 535i stuff would be the simplest option and you'd lose some weight, too.

[dragonbar]

Any chance of e34 525i parts being compatible?

[mooseheadm5]

No, the pump is way different.

[davintosh]

Thanks Dave.
From your post I was able to find the instructions with a pic, which is the way I learn best.
http://www.bavauto.com/Assets/inst_pages/ins254.pdf

The only thing I'll need from this kit would be the "Union Connector (M10 X 1.0)".
Any leads as to where I could pick one of these up? Would a local hardware store stock them?

I kinda figured there would be a downloadable instruction sheet available for that kit; good job sleuthing that out! It looks like you don't really need the union; if you read the instructions, you can do the bypass either "at the ends of the hoses where they have been disconnected from the regulator" (which requires the union connector) or nearer the pump (Figure 1 “B”) where you'd use one of the existing union connectors; "gently bending the hose and pipe (#1 & #2) and using the union to connect them together." Probably a little more difficulty involved in getting at the connections nearer the front of the car, but it'll probably end up being a bit cleaner as well.

Hope you can get the leaks up front sorted out. I won't even try to help with that.