thanks,
Chris
btw it did make the "clicking" sound whenever I turned the drivers door lock, however nothing else happened.
~0Has anyone restored completely non functional central lockin
Mine havent worked in a decade, and I recently found a set of pre-double-lock motors for my entire car on the bay for 35 bucks! I am going to couple those with my old control unit, and if that doesnt work, replace that as well. Basically I think that motors became burnt out after too much resistance from sticky lock mechanisms. Im going to go in and lubricate, straighten, and replace any linkages that dont seem up to snuff. Those of you who might have taken this task on, was it easy, difficult? Woth my time? I'll be using the Central Locking FAQ that many of you have probably read.
thanks,
Chris
btw it did make the "clicking" sound whenever I turned the drivers door lock, however nothing else happened. ~0
thanks,
Chris
btw it did make the "clicking" sound whenever I turned the drivers door lock, however nothing else happened.
~0-
DGM Calgary
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Calgary
- Contact:
I've been frustrated for a year with a bad drivers door servo and have spent numerous afternoons dicking with solutions. It's a frustrating fix - little room, poor visibility and questionable documentation. I found myself jury rigging things a few times and in the end I still have problems with the drivers door. I think you're on the right track replacing the servos if all else seems ok. I intend to buy a new set of lock cylinders when I can afford it and replace the faulty stuff again come spring.
Your R&R description seems reasonable and should be the solution.
Good luck.
Your R&R description seems reasonable and should be the solution.
Good luck.
DGM Calgary,
I didnt realize that the lock cylinder themselves may be culprits of binding... The auction for the lock servos does include two door cylinders and the trunk cylinder, and a key. I would go ahead and swap them in, but I spent a lot of time inserting the pins from my broken glovebox latch into my replacement. So I may combine my pins with the new cylinders. We'll see. Thanks for the reply
Chris
I didnt realize that the lock cylinder themselves may be culprits of binding... The auction for the lock servos does include two door cylinders and the trunk cylinder, and a key. I would go ahead and swap them in, but I spent a lot of time inserting the pins from my broken glovebox latch into my replacement. So I may combine my pins with the new cylinders. We'll see. Thanks for the reply
Chris
If your locks have no action... (please forgive me it's 4:00am and i haven't slept yet)
Ok, If you remove the front driver's side speaker, there is a huge ass plug, If you ever had a window gasket problem or have one now, and have been in the rain, you generally will kill your locks because of corrosion. Unplug that big plug.
Also in the passenger side speaker well is where the "controller" thingie sits. Get one and replace that...
Anyway back to the big plug.. Get some light grit sand paper or emery cloth and glue it to a toothpick, clean out all the female plugs and do the same to the male plugs, spray them with an electronics contact cleaner.... That's a good start to getting them working again.
Also, you can purchase some dielectric grease, basically a water sealing goo, fill the plug with that and reconnect the plugs.
Once it warms up again here, i'll eventually get mine working again, they work even in -40 when they work, but when the car gets wet they quit, as i have a bad window gasket.
Even if the locks aren't "dead" you should try this as it restores full current to the connections.
Ok, If you remove the front driver's side speaker, there is a huge ass plug, If you ever had a window gasket problem or have one now, and have been in the rain, you generally will kill your locks because of corrosion. Unplug that big plug.
Also in the passenger side speaker well is where the "controller" thingie sits. Get one and replace that...
Anyway back to the big plug.. Get some light grit sand paper or emery cloth and glue it to a toothpick, clean out all the female plugs and do the same to the male plugs, spray them with an electronics contact cleaner.... That's a good start to getting them working again.
Also, you can purchase some dielectric grease, basically a water sealing goo, fill the plug with that and reconnect the plugs.
Once it warms up again here, i'll eventually get mine working again, they work even in -40 when they work, but when the car gets wet they quit, as i have a bad window gasket.
Even if the locks aren't "dead" you should try this as it restores full current to the connections.
[QUOTE="slash02"]Anyway back to the big plug.. Get some light grit sand paper or emery cloth and glue it to a toothpick, clean out all the female plugs and do the same to the male plugs, spray them with an electronics contact cleaner.... That's a good start to getting them working again.
Also, you can purchase some dielectric grease, basically a water sealing goo, fill the plug with that and reconnect the plugs.
Once it warms up again here, i'll eventually get mine working again, they work even in -40 when they work, but when the car gets wet they quit, as i have a bad window gasket.
Even if the locks aren't "dead" you should try this as it restores full current to the connections.[/QUOTE]
I'll definitely be cleaning those contacts then, in addition to everything else. What it seemed like was that the lock mechanisms were causing resistance so that the motors wouldnt do their job. I removed the control unit (with battery disconnected) and jumpered the connector to fire the locks. a few of the rear lock buttons wouldnt go down, and the wires got really hot really fast.
Does anyone know a good method for testing the lock motors by applying 12 volts somehow?
[Edit by pdx 528e on [TIME]1106946137[/TIME]]
Also, you can purchase some dielectric grease, basically a water sealing goo, fill the plug with that and reconnect the plugs.
Once it warms up again here, i'll eventually get mine working again, they work even in -40 when they work, but when the car gets wet they quit, as i have a bad window gasket.
Even if the locks aren't "dead" you should try this as it restores full current to the connections.[/QUOTE]
I'll definitely be cleaning those contacts then, in addition to everything else. What it seemed like was that the lock mechanisms were causing resistance so that the motors wouldnt do their job. I removed the control unit (with battery disconnected) and jumpered the connector to fire the locks. a few of the rear lock buttons wouldnt go down, and the wires got really hot really fast.
Does anyone know a good method for testing the lock motors by applying 12 volts somehow?
[Edit by pdx 528e on [TIME]1106946137[/TIME]]
I finally got my bag o bits for my doorlock R&R. I guess if its warm out tomorrow I will dig into the doors, and see if I cant make some sense out of it. How do I test the door lock motors before putting them in? 
I am *guessing* that the U shaped item on the left is a lock heater, and I have no idea what the part with the long wire running across the top of the photo is. Can I install the lock heater if it wasnt in my original OEM configuration? The lock cylinders have really smooth operation, including the trunk unit, so I am thinking of inserting the pins from my original locks into these units. Those door bumpers and extraneous hardware are pretty useless in their condition, but the rest is a cool ebay find. Anyone have a control unit from 83-84 model year?
I am *guessing* that the U shaped item on the left is a lock heater, and I have no idea what the part with the long wire running across the top of the photo is. Can I install the lock heater if it wasnt in my original OEM configuration? The lock cylinders have really smooth operation, including the trunk unit, so I am thinking of inserting the pins from my original locks into these units. Those door bumpers and extraneous hardware are pretty useless in their condition, but the rest is a cool ebay find. Anyone have a control unit from 83-84 model year?
-
Blue Shadow
- Posts: 10286
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: SE PA
The U-shaped thing is the lock heater. It holds the driver's lock in the door. The wire thing across the top is the switch for the dead bolt feature. This has three wires on it, red/brown, white/black and brown/blue. It is a microswitch that the lock closes to activate the deadbolt.
The heater switch/interior light timer switch is kinda similar, but has a leaf contact on it that closes to ground on activation (lifting driver's door handle) and its colors are yellow/blue and brown. I don't see it in the picture, but it may be the thing with the wire on it.
Have you used the ETM to trouble shoot this? Have you used the mesaperformance FAQs to trouble shoot this?
The heater switch/interior light timer switch is kinda similar, but has a leaf contact on it that closes to ground on activation (lifting driver's door handle) and its colors are yellow/blue and brown. I don't see it in the picture, but it may be the thing with the wire on it.
Have you used the ETM to trouble shoot this? Have you used the mesaperformance FAQs to trouble shoot this?
[QUOTE="Blue Shadow"]The U-shaped thing is the lock heater. It holds the driver's lock in the door. The wire thing across the top is the switch for the dead bolt feature. This has three wires on it, red/brown, white/black and brown/blue. It is a microswitch that the lock closes to activate the deadbolt.
The heater switch/interior light timer switch is kinda similar, but has a leaf contact on it that closes to ground on activation (lifting driver's door handle) and its colors are yellow/blue and brown. I don't see it in the picture, but it may be the thing with the wire on it.
Have you used the ETM to trouble shoot this? Have you used the mesaperformance FAQs to trouble shoot this?[/QUOTE]
The mesa performance FAQ, which I ran through, has led me to believe that multiple lock mechanisms are jamming up. Nothing worked except the last test, which includes shorting the wires which pop the locks. A few pop, some dont, and the wires get incredibly hot due to some resistence in the system. Im going to take everything out that I can get access to, and lubricate, and I'll do what I can for the things that dont come out easily. Those lock cylinders that came in the mail seem in nicer condition than the ones on my car, so I think I will also rebuild them with the pins to match my current keys. I've probably got burnt out motors too, so I thought installing a known working set will help to eliminate worries about my existing servos, once the locks are turning smoothly.
Im talking about things that I cant see in front of me right now, so my ideas for what I will be doing are possibly a little off. In the morning when I take the door panels off, things might seem more clear to me.
The heater switch/interior light timer switch is kinda similar, but has a leaf contact on it that closes to ground on activation (lifting driver's door handle) and its colors are yellow/blue and brown. I don't see it in the picture, but it may be the thing with the wire on it.
Have you used the ETM to trouble shoot this? Have you used the mesaperformance FAQs to trouble shoot this?[/QUOTE]
The mesa performance FAQ, which I ran through, has led me to believe that multiple lock mechanisms are jamming up. Nothing worked except the last test, which includes shorting the wires which pop the locks. A few pop, some dont, and the wires get incredibly hot due to some resistence in the system. Im going to take everything out that I can get access to, and lubricate, and I'll do what I can for the things that dont come out easily. Those lock cylinders that came in the mail seem in nicer condition than the ones on my car, so I think I will also rebuild them with the pins to match my current keys. I've probably got burnt out motors too, so I thought installing a known working set will help to eliminate worries about my existing servos, once the locks are turning smoothly.
Im talking about things that I cant see in front of me right now, so my ideas for what I will be doing are possibly a little off. In the morning when I take the door panels off, things might seem more clear to me.