MyE28.com

It's idle has been a little high since the M1.3 swap, so had the idle map lowered by 500rpm on the WAR chip by my buddy. Car does not rev, or idle. Missfires through the rev range, shoots smoke, backfires etc etc. Re-loaded the existing dyno tune without the idle modification back into all 4 maps, same problem. This tune has been running the car like a dream since I completed the M1.3 swap a few months ago, it just idle's a little higher than I'd ideally like it too at ~900-1000rpm (Exactly as it's set up to do in the tune mind you). Later on in the evening after He had spent an hour trying to get it to idle by re-loading and cross referencing a plethora or different tunes, he got it running on an Alpina B10 tune that came from Brody, and it idled and revved up in the garage fine. He said he's experienced this stuff a countless number of times, and has no explanation, even after numerous detailed email exchanges with Brody. Of course Brody has no idea wtf is going on, because he doesn't actually do a thing except gobble up peoples money and give them Dog Shit™ in return. After he left, I moved my housemates e34 out of the driveway, took my car up the street till it warmed up, drove smooth and like it should. Fixed!?

Of course not.

On the way back down the street, gave it the beans in 2nd and it literally stopped at 4k RPM like it hit a brick wall and would not run at anything past idle. Barely managed to get it back in the driveway. The backfiring drew the neighbors out of hiding thinking there was a driveby shooting going on, and now they think their new neighbors are a bunch of lunatic bogans which is just fantastic for us in the few days leading up to our housewarming. I'm fucking livid. For the first time in 3 years, it's been running perfectly fine with this dyno tune and I've been able to focus my efforts on cosmetics, and now suddenly after one tiny alteration, it is running like absolute dogshit, and CTL Z doesn't appear to work IRL. I fucking hate Miller and their buggy bullshit products and useless tech support, and if I had the money i'd throw it all in the fucking bin and buy into the product Millers Australian distributors are replacing them with. At least that one fucking works. /rant

AhhhhhI feel better, apologies for that.. Any suggestions? I've got the battery terminals grounded at the moment to hard reset the ECU, in the hope that conflicting inputs have loaded it up with fault codes and it's just shitting itself. If I plug it back in in the morning, set the WAR to the known good dyno tune, and it's still fucked I'm going to go postal.

what's a "bogan"?

alijonny wrote:what's a "bogan"?

Our version of rednecks. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bogan

'Squirt that bitch

Das_Prachtstraße wrote:

alijonny wrote:what's a "bogan"?

Our version of rednecks. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bogan

We have them here in town, too.

Yea, but how's it running? Sorry, couldn't resist. And you're far away.

I am having my own idle issues but mine are with the throttle plate adjustment. No issues (knock wood) with MAF, Warchip or tune.

I assume you've checked the obvious things, plug wires, coil, etc.?

Sorry to hear that! Let us know how it goes.

I had the same experience with the Miller Maf after the M1.3 swap as well on the e28. The car would idle higher than normal. I did all the troubleshoot on the website and everything checked out fine. But, still the high idle was there, they sent me a lower idle map chip and that didn't change anything. I just ended up giving up on it and switching to a MarkD chip and couldn't be any happier.

I'm experiencing my own issues with Miller's MAF myself. Still can't get my car to idle, much less get down the road.

I have a feeling you'll be way happier running the stock AFM. My e34 turbo is running all stock components just fine.

I haven't really had an issue with my idle. Looking at the WAR chip features for the 179 ecu there are two different idle maps according to different load levels and also separate idle specs depending on what the coolant temp is.

LandCruzer94 wrote:I haven't really had an issue with my idle. Looking at the WAR chip features for the 179 ecu there are two different idle maps according to different load levels and also separate idle specs depending on what the coolant temp is.

The software we've got shows idle fuel, which has been spot on and is untouched, and idle level on ambient air temp, not coolant temp. The point on the dyno tunes are 1020, 1000, 980, 950. 1020 being around 3 degrees Celsius and 950 being around 30. FrOm memory. We adjusted these numbers down 50rpm and it's been nothing but epic fail. I'll see how it shapes up after the ecu reset in an hour or so.

Hooked up the battery again, ECU's been reset, set it to the Dyno tune, car won't run. Wont idle at all. Any throttle input stalls it. Switched to the Alpina B10 tune, car idles around 1200rpm, and throttle input stalls it.

I'm done.

I'll offer moral support.

I havent really got mine dialed in yet, but what I did diferently was to jump the ecu not the wiring harness that way I can switch back to my old ecu and AFM if needed!

Das_Prachtstraße wrote:Hooked up the battery again, ECU's been reset, set it to the Dyno tune, car won't run. Wont idle at all. Any throttle input stalls it. Switched to the Alpina B10 tune, car idles around 1200rpm, and throttle input stalls it.

I'm done.

Check your Maf plug, I accidentally tried to drive mine with it disconnected and it produced the same exact thing.

i did battle with a war chipped dinan turbo m5 a few weeks ago and found it to be a royal pain in the ass compared to tuning my megasqurted e30, after 3 hours of fucking with it doing what would be 30 minutes worth of work on a megasquirt i got it running better then it came to me doing, none of the shit i waited forever for brody to send to me would even fucking work, not even open up. i am sofaking glad i didn't buy a war chip for my b35'd shark, shits like tuning with a ouija board and magic 8 ball

winfred wrote:shits like tuning with a ouija board and magic 8 ball

That has been my experience. Went through 3 idle control valves with the war chip.

i want less fuel during cruise.................................................joe boo says fuck you its gonna run 9. afr at cruise no matter what........unless you sacrifice a chicken............

Martin in BellevueWA wrote:

winfred wrote:shits like tuning with a ouija board and magic 8 ball

That has been my experience. Went through 3 idle control valves with the war chip.

FYI this thread has officially derailed my intention of getting a WAR chip in a couple weeks.Now going with MSPNP.I also had asked some questions both on forum and on the phone that they never could answer.They should be watching this to make some improvements id say.

I still think the issue has to do with a physical connection to the MAF unit. My issue was way too similar to consider it being tune related.

I don't understand why Miller can't invest some time and money into improving on what is fundamentally, an excellent idea. Product bugs and customer service issues are a part of any developing business, but the problem they have is that they offer absolutely no support in regards to either, and show absolutely no intention of improving upon the product or the software. They either completely ignore suggestions or complaints, or jump on the defensive and project the issues and causes of the problems onto the user. It's a crock of shit, and it's going to lose them a lot of business.


The MAF plug is fine. continuity is fine, signals are all fine from the pin outs, it's got nothing to do with a mechanical or hardware issue, but more the software side of things. Its infuriating, and I've had enough. My buddy is popping past this afternoon, and if we can't get it running again the Miller stuff is going in the bin and i'm replacing it with a product that works as it should.

Keep the car, dump the Miller.
Sorry it's biting your arse...you deserve a break.

TSMacNeil wrote:Keep the car, dump the Miller.
Sorry it's biting your arse...you deserve a break.

Tell me about it. The car ain't ever going voluntarily , as tempting a prospect as it might be at times! It's just being a little bitch lately.

Still got this issue. Swapped a known good ECU, brand new WAR chip out of the box with the reliable dyno tune installed, tested and swapped out the CTS, ICV, Miller MAF, fuel filter is new, all grounds are good and there are no vacuum leaks. Swapped out main and fuel pump relays, too. FPR is known good, although hasn't been tested with a pressure gauge. No O2 sensor.

Car starts fine, idle's around 950rpm for about 10-15 seconds, then drops until stall. If I hold the throttle open, it idles rough with a miss until warm, when it will rev freely to redline. Idle quality doesn't change when warm, although it won't stall. It indicates an idle of around 650rpm, but it's very rough. Smells really rich, although doesn't blow smoke or leave black desposits on the wall behind the exhaust tips which suggests it isn't.

Pulling the dipstick makes no difference to idle, pulling the ICV plug makes no difference unless the car is warm, at which point the revs will raise about 500rpm. Pulling the MAF plug causes the engine to stall, CTS plug makes no difference at cold, pulled at warm it causes it to stall.

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD WHY WON'T THIS DAMN POS JUST WORK AGAIN!

I can get a video if anyone thinks it may be helpful?

It sounds like a real pain in the ass.

Should also add a few things of interest. Pulling the valve cover breather out of the intake and introducing a massive air leak makes no difference once it idles when warm. This puzzles me. Rremember that all we did essentially was plug the computer into the USB connector of the WAR chip, unplug it again, and all this started.

Das_Prachtstraße wrote:Rremember that all we did essentially was plug the computer into the USB connector of the WAR chip, unplug it again, and all this started.

virus...Borg assimilation...

Sorry to hear of these tribulations. Patience and you will prevail. Did Miller ever give you any help?

The symptoms indicate vacuum leak. What have you done to look for one? I know the problem started with plugging the USB thingie into the Miller system, but that could simply be coincidence. The lack of idle change when pulling the dipstick and pulling the valve cover breather screams vacuum leak to me.

Jeremy

Hate to say this but here goes. I think you need to take it back to stock (assuming you have all the parts) to make sure it is not something else. I did that recently to confirm that my problem was something other than my Alpha Maxx unit. Sometimes a problem is not what you think but something unrelated. At least the car will be running (assuming it is the Miller system). Sorry you are having the issue.