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Yep, definitely sucks. Destroyed the belt and the fan, as the shaft was wobbling, probably from shot bearings. Anyway, when I opened up the reservoir, I saw a bunch of what looked like aluminum shavings. Are those metal shavings from the head you think, or just the water pump itself? And, when I take mine apart, should I try to flush the whole system out with a garden hose first, to get it all out? I think this would be a best bet, as I clould clean the whole thing out with water, radiator, motor, everything, then put it all back together, and put fresh fluid in. Any tips? Thanks.

Also, i don't have time to get ahold of a gasket, so, silicon would work, right? I have no time to get one, nopbody around here stocks one, adn I need my car runnign today, so I think I'm gonna do silicon

Well, I got alomst 0 done the other day, so, I've got a new water pump/gasket/thermostat comming tuesday. I think I may have to simply go down to the carwash, though, to spray ouit the block.radiator with water, to get those metal particles out. Has anybody ever had that happen, your water pump lock up, and your cooling system fill up with aliminum particles?

The shavings are from the water pump, not the head.

I would NOT use a car wash sprayer to remove the shavings because it could do more damage to the hoses, etc. You'd also have to drive the car there, right? That could cause further damage.

I'd undo the radiator and block drain plugs, run some water through (with the engine off), reinstall the plugs, start the car with a hose running in the reservoir, then remove the radiator plug, making sure you keep up the level. You should get most of the shavings out that way.

[QUOTE="Shawn D."]The shavings are from the water pump, not the head.

I would NOT use a car wash sprayer to remove the shavings because it could do more damage to the hoses, etc. You'd also have to drive the car there, right? That could cause further damage.

I'd undo the radiator and block drain plugs, run some water through (with the engine off), reinstall the plugs, start the car with a hose running in the reservoir, then remove the radiator plug, making sure you keep up the level. You should get most of the shavings out that way.[/QUOTE]

Well, there's one problem. I live in an apartment complex, cause I'm in college. A car wash sprayer is my only real option to get clean water into the engine. What else can I do?

[QUOTE="kendogg"]Well, there's one problem. I live in an apartment complex, cause I'm in college. A car wash sprayer is my only real option to get clean water into the engine. What else can I do?[/QUOTE]

You don't have a friend with a house and a hose? If not, you can buy a shitload of distilled water and do what Shawn D. suggested.

It's cheaper than screwing up your car, don't you think?

Ya, I could do that, Where do I pour the distilled water into to get the block cleaned out? And, how would I get the heater core cleaned out, cause I had the heater on high when it happened, so I'm sure the heater valve was full open.

Ken,

You'd pour the water in the same place -- the reservoir. The difference here is that you would not be able to run it while flushing (unless you're really fast with a bucket!). For the flushing, I don't think it's necessary to use distilled water -- use it for the antifreeze mix, though.

As for the heater core, you can bypass it and flush it at a friend's house or some location with a hose -- do that "backwards" to get the particles out. There was a discussion recently about bypassing -- search the new archives here.

-Shawn

Ken, you're welcome to flush it at my house. It's supposed to be 39 degrees saturday, so I should be able to thaw out the hose I've left outside all winter. Don't waste the $$$/time on bottles of water.

appreciate the offer, only thing is, is I have to figure out how to get the car to wheaton. I already have the water pump almost off, and I really don't wanna drive it any more than I have to.

True. Good luck with the bottles. Offer still stands if you get desparate.

Thanks, man, mk if your gonna be up for a little while tonight, I may grab your cell number that you emailed me, and give you a call about saturday Anyway. Thanks for the offer, too, I definitely appreciate it. Ken.

Thanks again, mitch, for all the help. Got the water pump all in today, works great. I put in a 71 degree C thermostat, runs extremely cold right now, but, it'll be fine as soon as I can figure out just how the fan switches work. Next step, get the other car running, my parts car, just cause I need to move it, lol.

Now, the thermo-switches, the ones that control the electric fan, that re the 2 on the very top of the passengers side of the radiator, correct? What do they run to, a relay? I'm trying to figure out what they run to, because I don't believe either one of them worked, I even yanked a pair off my parts car, and they are not working either. My electric fan refuses to turn on untill I turn on the A/C. And, where is the sensor for the temp gauge located, is that the one right behind the thermostat?

Kenndog - good wrenching with you today on a mild [cold] Chicago day. If we get that machine hummin' you should hit this year's 5erfest.

Thanks for proving to me that I need a 535i manual...the easy powerslide around Stonegate Drive sold me...good drivin'.

Let's hit that rear diff this weekend and move the rebuild to a base closer to home..

Mitch

Does anybody here know if the electric fan thermiosters are the same thread, etc as what is used on an E36? So, say, I could talk to my friend witht eh E36 M3, and see what he originally had for a thermostat switch, and see how much lower he had to go to keep everything properly cool. Thanks.

Bavauto has a 82 C thermister, so, I'll be ordering that, for my low speed fan, since my new thermostat is 71, that'll be perfect. I'll use the 82 for low speed, then the stock 91 for high speed.