MyE28.com

I've read this http://www.tycksen.com/bmw/tech/mz3_shifter. My shifter has kinda alot of slop, it's even hard to get it in reverse sometimes because of the slop. How difficult is it to replace the optional bushings mentioned in the article that require removing the driveshaft? And how much will it reduce the sloppines if I replace just the upper and lower ball cups? Car is M535i -85 with normal 260 getrag.

As outlined on that page, all Clay did was shorten the throw. Only replacing the shifter will do nothing to get rid of slop. It wasn't that big a deal to drop the back of the tranny. The prob was that you still have to work blind to some degree. And don't skimp, the more you replace the better the feel will be. If I had it to do again I would have replaced the connector rod also. might get around to that anyway. I want to try either UUC's DSSR double sided connector or Autosolutions angled connector.

The DSSR eliminated the amount of pivot at each end of the connector rod and therefore most of the wear. The Autosolutions angled rod realigns the direction in which force is applied, allowing for an easier shift. i wonder if I could bend the DSSR without collapsing it and get the best of both worlds.
hmmmm

HTH,

dj

Ideally, replacing the entire bushing compliment on the shifter mechanism is the best way to go.

On my 325i, I didn't want to do the drop the rear crossmember trick to get at the front shifter bushings, so I made do with just the rear ones being replaced. When I do the clutch on this car, the tranny will be out, so I'll do the front ones then.

There are yellow washers that are standard on the front and rear of the shift rod (that goes between the lever and the selector rod) and some very thin clear ones to take up any additional slack in a worn lower shift lever bushing. I bought both, but only used the yellow ones because I was installing an e36 M3 shift lever which was new. Speaking of which, you should consider this lever, it's a very cost effective short shift lever at $46.00.

Further, if you're feeling brave, you can bend your shift rod to make it in closer alignment with the selector rod in the transmission, but this is not for the faint hearted, or inexperienced home mechanic. :p

Last, you need to determine which shift platform you car has. If it's the sheet metal variety, which it could be in your '85 depending on the build month, you'll need much different shift lever pivot bushings than if it's the cast aluminum type.

Car is M535i -85 with normal 260 getrag

Shouldn't it be a 265 if it is an 85 model or was the tranny replaced? Worst part of the shifter rebuild is the shaft seal. Use a dental pick to get the old bushing out.

Rich

It's a late -85/12 model.

I wouldn't replace the rear seal unless it's leaking. Your car should have the sheet metal shift platform.
It's a very easy job once you have the drive shaft out. Parts at the dealer should run @ $60 with the car club discount. Interestingly, the bushings looked the same compared to my 318i but the dealer also included the ball halves for my 528. On the 318 they didn't.