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M5 airbox to plenum/tube fit issues
Posted: Nov 10, 2012 2:14 PM
by pas
Working on changing out my air filter and removed the air box on my M5, but before I did, I noticed the very poor fit between the plenum/tube from behind the left headlight to the hole in the airbox. See pics at
http://www.flickr.com/photos/89905286@N ... 172739453/
I can't see any easy way to adjust anything that would make the tube seat properly in the inlet. I also understand that the foam gasket (falling apart on mine) is the same as that on the E30 and that part is still available.
Any hints or comments to fix this in an elegant way or reasonable manner?
Also, has anyone ever made a plastic replacement for the roughly 8lb or so large metal air box?
TIA[/url]
Posted: Nov 10, 2012 6:19 PM
by Mab1957
The donut or washer-gasket is available from Blunttech.com. PN 13711312695 It will cover that gap.
There are a few discussions about the M5 airbox on this forum. Give it a search. Your research will reveal that others have determined the guys in white coats in Bavaria built a box that maximized the airflow. After market systems don't help a whit. The airbox and those pieces are very hard to find. If you do decide to go another way do not discard them. Pull it off, prepare the surfaces and apply a coat of paint to it. You might even find a reproduction of the sticker with a bit of research.
Where are you located? I'm in No. VA.
Posted: Nov 10, 2012 6:26 PM
by pas
Thanks.
I'll leave it stock; it is just the fact that it has so much mass for an airbox and it is hanging out up front. Different era and I actually appreciate the sheer solidity of the approach.
I'm in the Frederick, MD area.
thanks
pas
Posted: Nov 10, 2012 6:41 PM
by Mab1957
Good deal. There are some nice roads up there. Perhaps I'll see you on a drive someday.
Matt
Posted: Nov 11, 2012 9:22 PM
by pas
Yep. Roads north up towards Gettysburg and Mount St. Mary's are great.
Are you sure about the PN (PN 13711312695) - it isn't showing up at blunttech or realoem.
About 10 years ago I was looking at an M5 and had it tech inspected by the guys at Intersport in McClean, VA. They had a BMW master tech even though Intersport is a Porsche specialty shop - really good work (I'm a card carrying PCA member for various reasons including the E500 I used to own). Didn't buy that one since it had two cylinders down from the others on the leakdown test.
pas
Posted: Nov 12, 2012 3:06 PM
by M5BB
IIRC there is a "foot" on the bottom of the airbox that has to fit in the proper place or the box will not go down far enough.
Also check the plastic cover that the intake of the airbox matches up to so it is in the proper position? I should have a locating pin that twist locks into place.
HTH
Gary
Posted: Nov 12, 2012 7:11 PM
by Mab1957
pas wrote:Yep. Roads north up towards Gettysburg and Mount St. Mary's are great.
Are you sure about the PN (PN 13711312695) - it isn't showing up at blunttech or realoem.
About 10 years ago I was looking at an M5 and had it tech inspected by the guys at Intersport in McClean, VA. They had a BMW master tech even though Intersport is a Porsche specialty shop - really good work (I'm a card carrying PCA member for various reasons including the E500 I used to own). Didn't buy that one since it had two cylinders down from the others on the leakdown test.
pas
Hmmm, I have two in a bag fresh from Steve at Blunttech. I pulled that # off the bag. I'll check my order to Blunttech and see if there was a different RealOEM number used. I'm not at home now so can't confirm.
Good points by Gary ^^ here. There is a positioning "foot" that could hold the box up/inboard if not in its shoe.
Posted: Nov 13, 2012 12:10 AM
by pas
Thanks, Gary. It appeared properly seated on the rubber buffer though I'll check it more carefully when I reinstall it.
The plastic thumbscrew for the intake piece connection to the headlight frame is positioned correctly.
Posted: Jun 04, 2013 9:04 PM
by Karl Grau
I got tired of the sorry state of my foam doughnut. It never sealed correctly and was always getting mangled. I tried to use double sided tape to make a better seal but I still always ended up with warm air coming in around all the gaps.
I bought some foam pipe insulation that is the same stuff as the factory foam (had to buy six feet though). So I cut a test piece which turned out to be a little wide but I tweaked it a little and now I FINALLY have a good seal.
The OEM ring.
Bulk
Test piece, looks just like the stock material.
Posted: Jun 04, 2013 9:22 PM
by ahab
Karl Grau wrote:
Dude, are those JVC GB-1E speakers in that photo?
Posted: Jun 04, 2013 9:24 PM
by Karl Grau
ahab wrote:
Dude, are those JVC GB-1E speakers in that photo?
You have an eye for detail
.
Posted: Jun 04, 2013 9:44 PM
by 1st 5er
Karl Grau wrote:ahab wrote:
Dude, are those JVC GB-1E speakers in that photo?
You have an eye for detail
.
All I see are couple of drunk flamingos.
Posted: Jun 04, 2013 9:49 PM
by Karl Grau
1st 5er wrote:All I see are couple of drunk flamingos.
Well, obviously you
don't have an eye for detail.
(and the flamingos are just napping)
Posted: Jun 05, 2013 1:28 AM
by 1st 5er
I know what the next purchase with my Home Depot gift card will be.
That is unless you're willing to turn your purchase into a group buy.
To make it easy, what's the ID of that piece?
Posted: Jun 05, 2013 9:20 AM
by igotbank
Karl,
I would've never thought to have used that. Which diameter did you get. I'm at work and will be making a Home Depot run after lunch today. I love this forum! Thanks and Happy motoring.
Posted: Jun 05, 2013 10:21 AM
by Karl Grau
The ID is 3-1/8 and it was $12.46 for 6' at McMaster-Carr. I don't think Home Depot carries anything that large but I could be wrong. Mcmaster-Carr ships it it a long box with a cardboard tube in the center. shipping was $17.00 but that was with a bunch of other stuff.
I'd be happy to send a piece to anyone that wants one for shipping cost. I figure a 6"- 8" piece would be enough for a lifetime of doughnuts.
If anyone wants to buy from McMaster, it's item #4463K145
Ultra-Flexible Foam Rubber Pipe Insulation
.
Posted: Jun 05, 2013 1:21 PM
by 1st 5er
PM incoming.
Posted: Jun 05, 2013 3:21 PM
by ahab
PMing
Posted: Jun 05, 2013 9:19 PM
by 1st 5er
PP sent.
Posted: Jun 05, 2013 9:36 PM
by Karl Grau
Sherman & Aaron,
Your packages will go out tomorrow. Thanks for the overpayments, beer will bought and drunk (drank?:?) in your honor.
Posted: Jun 06, 2013 1:38 PM
by ahab
Thanks for blazing the trail!
Posted: Jun 06, 2013 10:41 PM
by 1st 5er
Karl Grau wrote:Sherman & Aaron,
Your packages will go out tomorrow. Thanks for the overpayments, beer will bought and drunk (drank?:?) in your honor.
Headed to the store...
Posted: Jun 08, 2013 8:45 AM
by igotbank
You're right again Home Depot didn't have it. Pm coming
Posted: Jun 08, 2013 5:31 PM
by 1st 5er
Got my box today. Pleasantly surprised; Christmas in June.
Chas, you shouldn't have...
Posted: Jun 09, 2013 8:20 PM
by Karl Grau
I haven't heard anything more from
igotbank so it looks like I may have one piece left (i'll give him until tomorrow in case he's having a wild weekend). All other pieces have shipped or will go out tomorrow. I hope it's all you dreamed it would be and more.
Posted: Jun 10, 2013 5:34 PM
by Karl Grau
Sorry, but all the foam is gone guys. The last box will go out tomorrow.
Posted: Jun 12, 2013 1:35 AM
by TurboChris
Got a box today, thanks Charles!
Posted: Jun 13, 2013 8:26 PM
by johne
Received shipment today. Thanks John
Posted: Jun 17, 2013 5:41 PM
by Karl Grau
So has anyone come up with a good way to make a nice clean cut with this foam? I was thinking of trying the paper cutter at work but otherwise, I got nuttin.
Posted: Jun 17, 2013 5:57 PM
by tn535i
If you have access to a lathe you'd be golden. Slip the foam over some kind of mandrel like maybe an aerosol can the right diameter, spin it in the lathe and slowly merge a razor knife held steady and it will sink down in perfectly clean. Move over and repeat to make several from one log of foam.
Otherwise maybe try the same approach with the can on a flat surface and a razor blade on a block of wood held steady above the surface and rotate the can up against the blade. Adjust the height of the wood block and make next cut.
The key in each is to have the blade true and square so it cuts in the circumference without wandering of course.
I've used this technique to cut larger diameter (up to about 3-4") things nice and square many times (provided it's not to long) and it is basically how they make lathe cut gaskets you see on the end of spin on filters.