MyE28.com

Aloha all! I've got a few questions for those in the know. First though, a brief description of my situation I have these cars:

1985 745i auto : hasn't ran in years, but it's complete and was a runner prior to being parked( engine does turn over)

1992 735i auto : same story

1986 535i 5spd : dismantled, I took everything needed to perform a 5spd conversion and also have the m30b34 engine on the side to pick stuff off of

the car they will be sacrificed for is a 1986 528e.

Here in hawaii cars can become 'backtaxed', rendering them almost valueless and so that is why I have so many turd cars to sacrifice.

What configuration of head/block/etc. would be best?

I am under the impression that the m106 has uniquely sized valves and doesn't share a cam with either the b34 or b35. Does it flow better?

I have no issues breaking any of these heads down to achieve the best possible combination of what I've got. I've done a fair amount of reading here and on scottie sharps page, but havent really found anyone in the same situation with access to all three engines.

I appreciate any input, hints, links or even robust shit talking(still a bump, right?).

mahalo
-ken

Welcome Ken.

Me, I'd drop in the M106 if it's in good condition and mate it with the 5-speed from the 535. Engine harness, either the M106 harness because of the built-in boost control and knock control or the 91 harness coupled with a RRFPR and maybe some other means of additional fuel enrichment. If you're electrically savvy go with a megasquirt install.

Pics of your turds please and be careful round here using that word. What may seem like a turd to the rest of the world, to us, they are our prized possessions.

Let's hope you can get some steaming conversations going. It could be fun.

Can you actually drive fast in Hawaii?

demetk wrote:Welcome Ken.

Me, I'd drop in the M106 if it's in good condition and mate it with the 5-speed from the 535. Engine harness, either the M106 harness because of the built-in boost control and knock control or the 91 harness coupled with a RRFPR and maybe some other means of additional fuel enrichment. If you're electrically savvy go with a megasquirt install.

Pics of your turds please and be careful round here using that word. What may seem like a turd to the rest of the world, to us, they are our prized possessions.

Let's hope you can get some steaming conversations going. It could be fun.

Can you actually drive fast in Hawaii?

I'd prefer not to get into the megasquirt scene unless I am un-able to get the OEM stuff working. I realize I will have to re-program the 745i DME to some extent and I am currently seeking a proper file from which to duplicate my chip, if anyone has one I'd love to swap some files with them(have some alpinas, hartges, dinans, etc.). I'm under the impression that a reprogram is needed to pair the 745i motronic with a 5spd, and if there's a little more performance oriented tune that would be a bonus.

As far as the RRFPR, I did see a few options from some of the 'community approved' retailers on here, and I'm currently leaning towards the BEGI 2025 on the TCD site(mostly because he seems like a good shit and is helpful/sympathetic to our cause as well as a pioneer in this stuff). I think initially I will attempt an all OEM setup though(just better new 4pintle injectors to begin with).

I shall post some pics at some point, after I've washed said turds! The sig pic is the car that will be the receiver of all this goodness.

I am also adding E32 750il front brakes and a few safety oriented modifications later. Off-subject question: if i request rebuilt E36 M3 calipers and send in these 750il calipers as a core... does that fly? Seems exactly the same except the ///M logo.

mahalo
-ken

swerved300 wrote:As far as the RRFPR, I did see a few options from some of the 'community approved' retailers on here, and I'm currently leaning towards the BEGI 2025 on the TCD site(mostly because he seems like a good shit and is helpful/sympathetic to our cause as well as a pioneer in this stuff). I think initially I will attempt an all OEM setup though(just better new 4pintle injectors to begin with).

Be careful with the injectors you want to use. If you go with the oem 745 fuel injection, the 4-pintle high impedance injectors may not be compatible. Pretty sure the 745 injectors are low impedance injectors.

Also the RRFPR isn't necessary with the oem 745 fuel injection. I never used one on mine even with running 8 psi boost. That engine was a screaming chicken for 10 years until the body became a rusted out turd of its former self. Poor thing.

swerved300 wrote: I am under the impression that the m106 has uniquely sized valves and doesn't share a cam with either the b34 or b35. Does it flow better?

The M106 head uses the same size valves as the B34 head. The B35 head uses the same size exh valves as both of the other heads, but the int valve is 1mm larger. The most important factor is that the M106 head uses special valves to withstand the heat from the turbo.
Physically, the B35 head is the best head in the group, but then you have one problem left- If you're really building a "545", are you using the M106 log exh manifold? If so, you need the larger studs that are installed in the M106 head. Bestest options in Bestest order:

1st Bestest = B35 head, the exh valves from the turbo head, and either the stud holes enlarged to accept the turbo head exh studs, or adapter studs that are available for this specific scenario.
2nd Bestest = Turbo head, left alone.
3rd Bestest* = B35 head, studs replaced as in 1st bestest. *I put this in third place, because I like the idea of having the better valves in the turbo head slightly more than using the B35 head in stock form.
Far behind in bestest = B34 head.

The B35 and the M106 both use the same cam, an upgrade from the B34 cam.

The best scenario is:
1st Bestest above, on the M106 bottom end.
Electronics are a whole 'nuther story.
You could use all 745 stuff, all B35 stuff with a turbo chip for timing retard, or stand alone (Bestest).
Injectors used depends on what electronics you go with.
Upgrades and enhancements just keep going up from there. We could talk about what is the best setup to use ALL DAY LONG. The stuff mentioned above is just the most obvious combination with what you have.

BuzzBomb wrote:

swerved300 wrote: I am under the impression that the m106 has uniquely sized valves and doesn't share a cam with either the b34 or b35. Does it flow better?

The M106 head uses the same size valves as the B34 head. The B35 head uses the same size exh valves as both of the other heads, but the int valve is 1mm larger. The most important factor is that the M106 head uses special valves to withstand the heat from the turbo.
Physically, the B35 head is the best head in the group, but then you have one problem left- If you're really building a "545", are you using the M106 log exh manifold? If so, you need the larger studs that are installed in the M106 head. Bestest options in Bestest order:

1st Bestest = B35 head, the exh valves from the turbo head, and either the stud holes enlarged to accept the turbo head exh studs, or adapter studs that are available for this specific scenario.
2nd Bestest = Turbo head, left alone.
3rd Bestest* = B35 head, studs replaced as in 1st bestest. *I put this in third place, because I like the idea of having the better valves in the turbo head slightly more than using the B35 head in stock form.
Far behind in bestest = B34 head.

The B35 and the M106 both use the same cam, an upgrade from the B34 cam.

The best scenario is:
1st Bestest above, on the M106 bottom end.
Electronics are a whole 'nuther story.
You could use all 745 stuff, all B35 stuff with a turbo chip for timing retard, or stand alone (Bestest).
Injectors used depends on what electronics you go with.
Upgrades and enhancements just keep going up from there. We could talk about what is the best setup to use ALL DAY LONG. The stuff mentioned above is just the most obvious combination with what you have.

thank you. Upon review of realOEM I found that both the intake and exhaust valves of the m106 head are unique part numbers tot he 745i despite their size being the the same as the B34 like you mentioned(46mm intake and 38mm exhaust). The extra 1mm of valve size on intake doesn't seem to be of a marked value to where I'd benefit a whole lot from changing them. Is it a similar circumstance then, that the intake valves of the m106 are also a special blend to deal with hte additional heat?
I think the B35's motronic will be the best- I understand this to again mean I should seek out a superETA harness as it will require the least amount of effort to make look "factory".

To answer your question re: manifold, I intend to use all OEM components when feasible. the motor mounts will hopefully be the only fabricated component, but I know some have used a combination of m5 mounts.
-ken

swerved300 wrote: Upon review of realOEM I found that both the intake and exhaust valves of the m106 head are unique part numbers tot he 745i despite their size being the the same as the B34 like you mentioned(46mm intake and 38mm exhaust). The extra 1mm of valve size on intake doesn't seem to be of a marked value to where I'd benefit a whole lot from changing them. Is it a similar circumstance then, that the intake valves of the m106 are also a special blend to deal with hte additional heat?
I think the B35's motronic will be the best- I understand this to again mean I should seek out a superETA harness as it will require the least amount of effort to make look "factory".

To answer your question re: manifold, I intend to use all OEM components when feasible. the motor mounts will hopefully be the only fabricated component, but I know some have used a combination of m5 mounts.
-ken

So head option #2. From a performance standpoint, option #1 is better for flow, especially when matched with the B35 intake manifold. The turbo head int valves are special, but it's not such a factor since the charge air temp isn't that different from an NA engine. The benefit of better flow and bigger int valves make the exh manifold studs worth changing.
Also yes on the super eta electronics.
The M5 rt mount will help too.
You'll need to bend or remove some sheet metal at the frame rail and part of the strut tower support to clear the turbo in an e28.

Wait- doesn't a b35 head on an m106 take the CR down below 8:1 of the M106? I know it is mechanically superior, but there might be a low compression issue.

9mil wrote:Wait- doesn't a b35 head on an m106 take the CR down below 8:1 of the M106? I know it is mechanically superior, but there might be a low compression issue.

There is a local "545" with this exact setup with no drivability issues, so on paper, I suppose yes, but in real life, not enough of a difference to change anything. You could, of course get higher compression pistons, but as a street car, is it really necessary? I guess it depends on Ken's goal for this build.

BuzzBomb wrote:

9mil wrote:Wait- doesn't a b35 head on an m106 take the CR down below 8:1 of the M106? I know it is mechanically superior, but there might be a low compression issue.

There is a local "545" with this exact setup with no drivability issues, so on paper, I suppose yes, but in real life, not enough of a difference to change anything. You could, of course get higher compression pistons, but as a street car, is it really necessary? I guess it depends on Ken's goal for this build.

much mahalos for all the excellent thoughts guys, i appreciate it very much.

yes, i suppose I should've mentioned my goal. I want to make my 1986 528e a period build; essentially the dopest e28 possible in 1986. I realize the superETA harness and b35 motronic 1.3 wasn't yet available, but i figure it's all factory gear- and I could have reasonably made it in 1986. I realize it may have been better to have a s38, but I've already got an m5 project(though it's in missouri atm)...
So with that in mind, I want to use OEM stuff whenever possible to attempt a very factory looking build. Performance is taking a backseat to form in some respects, but I just prefer a factory install look.
I know it may seem frivolous, but I actually really like my e28 for what it is, an old car that generally performs like and old car. lol



So far, my build is as thus:

M106 block and head w/ M30B35 intake manifold ( I will probably stick with the OEM valves and not be switching simply for continuity)
745i turbo system
M1.3 DME with a turbo tune
standard E28 535i trans. / driveshaft

I am still needing to choose a differential, flywheel, and injectors
I need to find a superETA harness, stbd M5 motor mount, and clear the strut tower/ABS lines.

Also- is it possible to use m1.3 and incorporate the knock sensor? Are there any clever way to maintain this function(I know very little about how this works other than what knock actually is, doe sit retard the timing to prevent detonation w/ the OE 745i DME?)

a hui hou kakou!
-ken